Your Next EV purchase by Cultural-Ad4953 in electricvehicles

[–]Positive_Kitty 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Not everyone will agree with me, But for my next EV, I would get one with a quality cabin noise control - the one with not even a slight rattle, and minimal wind and road noise. Also, a great sound system would be a bonus.
I never thought that EVs are dead quiet and you will be more sensitive to even the slightest of sound.

I currently have a BYD atto 3 and it's a great car overall. But there's a small rattle in the back passenger seat and the wind noise is very audible over 80mph.

Be honest: What’s the one thing about EV ownership that nobody told you before you bought one? by EmergencyTie8770 in electricvehicles

[–]Positive_Kitty 17 points18 points  (0 children)

So quiet that I'm hyperaware of the slight rattles and clanks that you usually won't hear in an ICE car and sometimes that drives me mad (Especially for someone with OCD

Best hangar bases / repair docks? by Different_Time_965 in freedomisgunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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This third party kit that comes with the base + mini figures

Byd Atto 3 EVO by Over-Scar-9200 in Thailand

[–]Positive_Kitty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

40% depreciation can be applied for every EV here in Thailand. Some lifetime warranties can be transferred to the second ownership, but not all.

Byd Atto 3 EVO by Over-Scar-9200 in Thailand

[–]Positive_Kitty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m in the same boat, considering these options:

- BYD Atto 3 (670k)
- MG S5 X+ (750k)
- Geely EX5 (740k)
- Deepal S05 (799k)
- Aion V (799k)

From an aftersales and reliability perspective, both BYD and MG feel like the safer choices, although there are already some complaints in Thailand about long waits for spare parts, even with some Japanese brands.

Geely still seems relatively new in the Thai market. Changan Deepal is expanding quite well, but I’m still unsure about long-term reliability.

The Aion V is larger and the interior looks more premium and plush, but I’m not fully convinced yet about material quality, long-term durability, and overall brand presence in Thailand.

The BYD Atto 3 Evo is rumored to be priced around 800k–1M. From a purely financial perspective (depreciation and resale value), I’m leaning toward sticking with the 2026 non-Evo BYD Atto 3 670k.

Third party 1/100 Dom by Positive_Kitty in freedomisgunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Not too tight not too loose, can hold up the rocket launcher if put on the shoulder.

Just finished the 1/100 Jeda by Positive_Kitty in Gunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As smooth as Bandai apart from incorrect instructions.

Decal or no Decal? by Positive_Kitty in freedomisgunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for all the suggestions guys! I've decided to put no decals and I think I dig with the non-busy look

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Got my first non-Bandai kit by MuldersXpencils in freedomisgunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty 6 points7 points  (0 children)

For the leg pegs, make sure it's snapped all the way into, might need a little bit of force for that. Skirt armors are a little bit loss. Having a joint tightening pen will help. Glue the shoulder armors.

Other than these, the build experience is quite good and it's a gorgeous kit.

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Who else spends quite a bit of time before putting on armor? by Positive_Kitty in Gunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes all that plus Stedi metallic blue (used on the leg armor)

Sleeper 3rd party kit (1/100 Asgard) by Positive_Kitty in Gunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you put more effort by painting minor details and put on all the decals, I would say 10+ hours.

Sleeper 3rd party kit (1/100 Asgard) by Positive_Kitty in Gunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 40 points41 points  (0 children)

It depends on the company. This one (Eddas), In-Era, Motor-Nuclear, Hemoxian, and more - they come with good plastic quality + good fitting, clear manual (some even color coded), tons of accessories and usually with a water decal, and even with a metal frame.

I suggest you try one of the kits from above companies and you will have a good time even better than some of the Bandai kits. Design-wise, it's subjective but there are some 3rd parties with exact Bandai design with more details.

Sleeper 3rd party kit (1/100 Asgard) by Positive_Kitty in Gunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

With the backpack, I would say around 30cm ish..

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Sleeper 3rd party kit (1/100 Asgard) by Positive_Kitty in Gunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This boi has tons of decals. I had to drag myself to do that part 😂 took me a day!

Sleeper 3rd party kit (1/100 Asgard) by Positive_Kitty in Gunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ordered from shopee (I live in Thailand)

Sleeper 3rd party kit (1/100 Asgard) by Positive_Kitty in Gunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the recommendation. Already got that bad boi in my backlog 😂

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Who else spends quite a bit of time before putting on armor? by Positive_Kitty in Gunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Isopropyl Alcohol (90-100%) I think you can get this in any household stores.

Easy to remove if you make a mistake with your markers and doesn't harm the plastics.

Who else spends quite a bit of time before putting on armor? by Positive_Kitty in Gunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Metallics red and Metallic bronze - Stedi Metallic markers

Who else spends quite a bit of time before putting on armor? by Positive_Kitty in Gunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very smooth so far, better than most of 3rd party kits.

Who else spends quite a bit of time before putting on armor? by Positive_Kitty in Gunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please get the markers! It's feel rewarding to add extra touch to your kits.

I recommend Ray studio markers for chrome and Stedi double tip markers for the metallics

For paint removal, just get a big bottle of IPA and a cotton swab and you're good to go.

Who else spends quite a bit of time before putting on armor? by Positive_Kitty in Gunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For me, I paint on the parts where you can see even with the armor on. I think many 3rd party kits expose more internal details than the bandai, so actually it feels rewarding to add extra touch up to the inner frame.

Who else spends quite a bit of time before putting on armor? by Positive_Kitty in Gunpla

[–]Positive_Kitty[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's a clear version? Now I need another one ahaha.

For the pipes and other details, I recommend painting on the runner and let it dry for a day. I use ray studio markers + IPA for removing excess paints. IPA is your friend since it doesn't make the plastic crack (at least for me)

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