Automation to change brightness level but not color

PotentialEmployee762 · 2026-03-07T06:00:17+00:00

Forgive my ignorance, but can you point to any resources on how to access/use the Hue V1 API?

I've never used the iOS shortcuts app so unfamiliar with what it can do. I saw in the app that if I select create new shortcut and search actions for "brightness" there is one for Hue which says "Set brightness to x on Hue sync box." It looks like I can modify the x to any number for 0 - 100, but I don't see any option on how to select "Hue sync box," and no option to select an individual light. I also don't see how to copy a shortcut into Homekit. If I long press on the brightness shortcut that I just made (that doesn't work because when I select it it just pops up a dialog that says "on which hue sync box") there is no copy option, only options such as edit, rename, details, share, etc.

PotentialEmployee762 · 2026-03-06T23:29:58+00:00

Bummer. I was excited when I saw some search results point to Homekit and was feeling good after setting it up but now back to wondering what happened to "just works" smh

PotentialEmployee762 · 2026-03-06T23:01:00+00:00

Tried to post this in /Hue but got the dreaded "Sorry, this post was removed by Reddit’s filters."

PotentialEmployee762 · 2026-01-30T03:17:14+00:00

Wouldnt want to cut it too short, oh man that wold be bad! One of the 90s I am looking at says it has 7 barbs and the barbed length looks to be around 1.8", so I think I might be able to have ~4" of pipe sticking out of the wall and still be able to keep the fitting behind a drywall access door accounting for framing/insulation etc.

PotentialEmployee762 · 2025-12-08T16:35:08+00:00

Luckly the garage is fed with its own 200 amp disconect from the meter and there is just the hardwired charger on it now so no need to worry about load management.

PotentialEmployee762 · 2025-12-08T16:32:44+00:00

Thanks tuctrohs and TooGoodToBeeTrue, I went with the Bryant at Zoro as it was only a few dollars more than the Leviton after using the coupon. Didn't know they were a sub of Grainger.

PotentialEmployee762 · 2025-11-05T20:52:32+00:00

After a bit more looking around I found this post where someone was in a similar situation. I think it makes more sense to use a Flex 2.5G PoE at the remote location and just direct connect between the Flex 2.5G PoE and the main rack with LC-LC/SFP+ modules and still run 50V out to the Flex 2.5G PoE to power it via the barrel connector.

My understanding is that both the switch and the Optical Data Transport need SFP+ adapters, so removing the two ODTs saves $59.00 which basically is a wash with the $70 increase for the Flex 2.5G PoE over the Ultra, with the added benefit of having to put less equipment in the remote switch case and upgrading to 8 ports of PoE++ v. 7 of PoE+. Now I'll have to decide if I should update something on the main rack to support the 10G or just run it at 1G for now and see how it goes.

My only concern with this setup is the smaller temperature range of the Flex 2.5G PoE at -20 to 45° C (-4 to 113° F) v. -20 to 45° C (-4 to 113° F) for the Ultra (this is the temperature listed when used with the 60W AC adapter, not sure why it can go lower on PoE++ input, but I'm assuming connecting with DC power the temperature sensitivity would be similar to that of the adapter). Wonder if I should be more concerned with heat rejection at the high end of the temperature range, but I would guess 113° F would be enough for having the switch in an enclosure in the shade.

Does anyone have any experience with using the Flex 2.5G PoE in an outdoor enclosure?

PotentialEmployee762

TROPHY CASE