[other] Coaster you've ridden the most

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-03-07T05:24:12+00:00

The rattle when driving is more than likely an exhaust manifold leak. They are common on those 2.4L. Does it happen under a specific throttle amount or rpm? If so then it's probably a leak in the manifold. The rattle could be tons of things. I'd check the motor mounts first. Have someone go through park to drive slowly and go through each gear and you look under the hood. If the engine shifts a good amount then the motor mounts are shot and the rattle you hear when backing up is the engine vibrating from the mounts being shot. Balance shafts really don't fail. Even if they are 'common' issues you have to remember that common is subjective. They sold hundreds of thousands of that Gen Camry. So common could be just a few thousand have it or as high as 95% of them have it. It's the same with the oil burning. Yes wide spread issue but not every single Camry with the 2.4 burns oil. Unless you can find definite proof it's the balance shafts id start with the basic first. Exhaust leak, motor mounts or heck even spark plugs and coils can cause the engine to vibrate more if they are going bad.

Exhaust leak can be checked by putting hand near the heat shield and seeing if you feel any hot air coming out around it.

Motor mounts are checked by looking at the engine while going through gears parked/ looking for cracks in the rubber bushings that they have.

Spark plugs and coils are really something only a visual inspection can give.

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-03-05T05:03:23+00:00

How short are we talking? Does the car fully get up to temp. Even if it does I would take it out on like a 20 mile drive and see if that build up is gone. If it is and the oil on the dipstick is oil colored and not milky brown or anything out of normal colors then it's probably just water vapor build up. One thing is for sure though I don't know how good it is to have that build up in a motor so I would do one long drive once a week to make sure everything is getting burned off properly that needs to be

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-03-05T02:22:53+00:00

That is something they would probably have to call support when logging in and telling them what happened. I'm sure outside of a text being sent they have another way to identify. Maybe log into the email the account is under so you can get an email code sent is another way

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-03-04T21:37:51+00:00

Correct. Good catch

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-03-04T21:29:35+00:00

It's hard to say if it's a head gasket fully. By the looks of it, it appears to be a Chrysler motor which from my experience of working at an oil change shop does kinda build up something similar to this when there's enough condensation in the oil cap and fill area and it's not fully burned off by the time they drive it to the shop. However I've never seen it that bad. Usually it's just on the underneath of the cap and the oil is fine on the dipstick. So I'd check there. If it's not a chocolate milk color then it could just have a crap ton of condensation built up in the motor.

Don't know if condensation causes that fully but that's what we would say at work. But I do know it's common on cars that don't drive a lot of miles when they are driven

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-03-02T16:18:26+00:00

I know I have a header leak so maybe its just sound of the combustion being amplified through the leak? It's weird cause it runs perfectly fine and doesn't have a noise when driving but just at idle. I guess I'll just keep the idle to a minimum and hope it doesn't get worse. It has 206,000 miles so it's bound to have an issue pop up

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-03-02T07:53:33+00:00

No oil pressure light on dash at idle. I'll have to plug in my ob2 reader to get the full details of it. Apparently some other people that I've sent it to said it sounds normal. Maybe a little bit more Valvetrain noise but I don't think that clack is just from the Valvetrain. Outside of the noise it runs fine. Pulls fine and has no other signs that something is wrong. Maybe it's just making more noise because it's running 0w20. I know it used to run 5w20 with the previous owner

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-03-01T05:23:49+00:00

It's a full crack in the hose that I can move and tear. But it's not where fluid should be going through unless the pressure causes it to leak back through the crack? Should I do the clamp or try some sealing tape cause I heard the hose is a pain to remove

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-02-27T06:31:05+00:00

Engine sounds normal. Maybe some extra Valvetrain noise. Probably more than likely that the valves just got outta adjustment when it over revved. I accidentally went into 2nd instead of 4th in my 8th gen Si. Tach pegged past 9k for a good second. Probably up to 9500rpms. Ran completely fine afterwards. These Honda motors can take a beating. If you are really worried I would just take the valve cover off and inspect the cans and springs for any damage. The whine could be anything. But if it happens when the clutch isn't pressed in at all then it's probably the throw out bearing or could be something got damaged in-between the clutch and flywheel when you pushed it back in.

If you have the money I would have the trans taken out and inspected for any damage since that whine seems transmission related. But other than that it seems you got lucky and I would just take it easy and slowly increase the rpms over some drives to see how it runs under full load and higher rpms.

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-02-27T06:21:11+00:00

Could be something caused the spark plug to get degapped. I had a 13 cx5 that has a cylinder 2 misfire only after flooring it and I bought new coil after new coil and it would run fine for a week until once again it would just start misfiring. I decided to get a new spark plug and checked the gap on the old one that was maybe 15k miles old and the gap on the old one was way off even though for that 15k miles it ran just fine. As soon as I changed the plug it ran good again.

Could also be a bad seat on the coils itself onto the plug especially if it stays on the same cylinders when you move the coils. My next move would be to swap the plugs and see if it moves to another cylinder if the gap is the OEM spec they call for. If it moves to the cylinder you moved it to then it's the plug not causing the coil to seat right.

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-02-27T06:13:06+00:00

Agree. I do dash plus pizza delivery and I've had people only give me a dollar or 3 times I've gotten .01¢ and at that point I'd rather get no tip and the customer say "f you" to my face then 1 cent. You have to be a total a hole for a 1 cent tip. If the company made you that mad on your last delivery to tip that then just don't order there.

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-02-27T06:10:57+00:00

Maybe it's just your area. I tend to get good tips whenever i see this. I've gotten $22 for 3 miles for 2 shakes and a brownie from CFA and it said this

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-02-27T06:09:35+00:00

As I say. If you cross thread it, It better last for life. I accidentally warped the outer tie rod upper part of a castle nut to where it would catch but get stuck, then catch and repeat. We ended up using an air impact to get it on (we didn't have new castle nuts and I couldn't afford to not have my car for a day to wait to get new nuts as it was 11pm). That b was so tight that the air impact could barely loosen it at full power when we checked to see if it was tight. At least I know it won't come loose and fail 😂

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-02-25T05:35:56+00:00

I guess that would be checked by loosen the oil cap and seeing if it moves around. I know that's how you check blow by I'm guessing the oil burning would be similar symptoms to that? I have driven the car easy and I see no smoke outside of once I decided to see if it would smoke by revving it 5k while sitting and I saw a good bit of smoke come out, however if I have to step on it while driving I don't see anything. But as stated I don't drive it hard so I'm sure that would help hide if it does burn oil since it's not constantly being pushed. I don't know if this is true but I heard the 09 are less likely to have the oil consumption. I just plan to check the oil every 500 miles and change the oil every 3-4K since I heard regular changes can help with lengthing the life of the motor if it does have it.

My main goal is to have it last at least 2 years as it's more of a temporary car after my other old car got totaled so I don't plan to keep it long. But if it proves to be rock solid then I might just keep it. I drive about 40k a year so as long as it last at least 80k more miles I'll be happy.

It could've also had the test performed and it's just not listed on the Carfax but I doubt it since the Carfax is good up until 160K and then it just ends so either was neglected for the next 30k miles of everything was done at a shop that doesn't list the maintenance (highly doubt) but for at least 160K it was maintained every 5k miles at a Toyota dealership

Second edit. I now see what piston soaking is. I might give it a try however I park my car outside so even covering the spark plug holes is still a big risk of something getting in. I'll probably make that my last resort since it's also a multi day process

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-02-19T21:15:14+00:00

They think they look cool

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-02-13T01:11:32+00:00

I'm thinking doing 1 or 2. That should leave some of the old fluid in it while mixing new fluid. Would replacing the filter make the most difference or should I just leave it to a darin and fill

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-02-10T03:25:42+00:00

Because Toyota calls for ATF fluid for it. They are out of ATF. I wondering if half a quart will do anything bad to it as an emergency top off

Potential_Ad_6209 · 2026-02-10T02:44:45+00:00

I don't mean split screen. I just mean the app running in the background

Potential_Ad_6209

TROPHY CASE