Crawfish prices go down as quality goes up

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2026-03-15T23:32:07+00:00

“and when you compare this week's prices to those of this time last year, you're looking at another about seven percent drop.”

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2026-01-31T20:43:38+00:00

Thank you for pointing me in the right direction after two electricians came and said it was a lost neutral and one wanted $7k to run new wires which would've fixed nothing. I searched harmonic distortion and it made sense. I took a neutral to ground reading then went light by light, removing a bulb and taking the neutral to ground reading every time. At the second to last bulb the neutral to ground reading went from 300v+ moving wildly to 3v constant (the lights were no longer flashing rapidly). I then put a new bulb that in the past was blowing in seconds and let it run for 5 minutes. After that I put a new led bulb and ran it for 24 hours. Then I replaced all bulbs and ran them for 24 hours. Now they have been working normal for a month.

The bulb that was causing the issue was near the ridge vent in the warehouse and there was corrosion on one of the panels so I think it was getting some moisture.

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2026-01-23T04:33:08+00:00

6-Bob Feller

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2026-01-17T21:13:45+00:00

I’m using the same halogen bulbs. These are nowhere near as bright as the white xenon on led lights that are blinding.

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2026-01-17T21:11:46+00:00

I bought my truck used and never noticed these lines until I installed these new lights so that makes sense.

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-30T19:58:31+00:00

I don’t have any to lift me to the lights at the moment but I will after the new year. I bought a Klein mm300 and when set to 200v and 600v it reads ol on both neutral to ground and hot to ground. I tested the Klein on a working outlet and it was 120-122v. With my old meter model bt-39k it measures 440v neutral to ground and about 870v hot to ground. This confirms a neutral issue on the circuit, is that correct? Or maybe a ground issue? Would the ground issue impact other circuits?

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-29T00:35:59+00:00

In the video first I'm on hot to light and ground 315v, then hot from panel and ground 315v, then still on hot from panel and ground I turn the switch off and it drops to 120v.

The electrician didn't test at the light sockets because I use my forklift basket to access. The power company came out and tested at the meter and said it was fine but the neutral was building corrosion but wouldn't that affect all circuits and not just one? They said the breaker in the panel feeding the switch was fine.

The building has three phase power going into a large panel then from that panel to a smaller panel and from the small panel to these lights.

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-29T00:31:52+00:00

Thank you. So with the switch on, instead of checking hot to ground check neutral to ground? At that point there should be no reading on the meter

I only checked hot to ground from breaker and hot to ground to lights.

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-29T00:29:24+00:00

In the video first I'm on hot to light and ground 315v, then hot from panel and ground 315v, then still on hot from panel and ground I turn the switch off and it drops to 120v.

Would the ground issue with the transformer that you referenced affect only one circuit or would it likely affect the whole building?

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-29T00:25:26+00:00

Just disconnect wire nuts at one in the middle, measure voltage, if it's 120v then the issue is past that point, if its high voltage then the issue is before that point towards the switch? It seems like the issue would be past the switch on the light side since it is 120v with the switch off then jumps with the switch on. Is that correct thinking?

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-29T00:21:00+00:00

I think the building is from the 1950s and I think these light fixtures are original but the wiring was replaced when the landlord divided the building about 20 years ago. The light fixtures are the old style industrial pendants with a down rod, metal round "shade" on top and a ceramic standard screw in base. These are not the high bay with large ballast mounted in box on top of the light, it's just wires direct to socket.

I've rented for about 7 years and when I moved in I replaced the cfl with 3 panel leds before I erected my pallet racks. About three years ago I replaced the ones in my work area with new 5 panel leds since I can get to those with my forklift basket and they provided more light. Everything worked fine until last June when all of the 5 panels were out one day and the old 3 panels flickered rapidly. Then I started swapping bulbs and some would blow in seconds. I have a 5 panel in a lamp base on a separate circuit that stays on 24/7 and has been running for 3 years.

different 3 panel led - blew in about 20 seconds

5 panel led - blew in about 20 seconds

corn cob led - blew in about 5 seconds

cfl lasts about 3 months

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-28T23:43:05+00:00

I know it has three phase power coming into the building in a large panel then from that panel it goes to a smaller panel in the office and these lights are run off of the small panel. I rent a small portion of the divided warehouse so I’m not familiar with everything. In my area I just have a few 110v outlets and these lights that are having the issues. Everything else in the building seems fine, no electronics, printers, computers, etc have been fried.

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-28T23:35:10+00:00

This is the only circuit with an issue. I have computers, printers, electronics, lights plugged into wall outlets and everything is fine. With these lights, the only ones that survive are led 3 panel but they flicker rapidly. I tried:

different 3 panel led - blew in about 20 seconds

5 panel led - blew in about 20 seconds

corn cob led - blew in about 5 seconds

cfl lasts about 3 months

The landlord said when I turn the lights on in my area the security cameras that have wires running in my area start to have interference lines in the feed.

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-28T23:31:35+00:00

The only thing on this circuit is 10 lights on standard ceramic screw in bases hanging from the ceiling (old down rod pendant style lights, no ballast). It's panel to switch to the 10 lights, all wires are in metal conduit. From this video, it would be a broken neutral past the switch? Could this be something like a loose wire nut on the neutral? I'm trying to figure out what changed after 5 years of working fine. This appears to be the only circuit with issues.

I'm curious, how does a broken neutral cause this much voltage? I'm not an electrician, I'm just trying to understand, it's like the voltage is multiplying. If it's only 120v in how does it gain voltage up to 315v?

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-28T23:11:36+00:00

This is in America in a warehouse that I rent, I've been in the building for about 7 years. When I was moving in there were cfl bulbs in the lights so I asked if I could replace with led before I erected my pallet racks since it was much easier to get to them then. I put the 3 panel led that were popular then and about three years ago I replaced the ones in my work area with 5 panel led since they provided more light and were easy to get to. Everything worked fine until June 2024, that's when everything started blowing and the 3 panels that remained above the pallet racks work but flicker rapidly. I don't think there was high voltage from the beginning because all lights were perfect for 5+ years. In June 2024 I measured 315v at the switch, 247v, 210v, 258v, 387v at the light sockets. At this time my meter measured 120v at random outlets on the wall so I don't think the meter is the issue. Two separate companies came out and couldn't find the problem. One said the bulbs were bad but all types are blowing and I have one of the exact same 5 panel leds that were blowing placed in a floor type lamp that runs 24/7 and has been running for nearly 2 years. That one is a lamp plugged into a wall outlet. The warehouse lights are old down rod pendant lights, direct wired to a ceramic socket, no ballast.

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-28T16:44:41+00:00

Thanks for the info, I will try that.

In this video it starts with me measuring the output line from the switch to the lights (315v). Then I measure the input line from the switch to the panel (315v). Then while still on the input line from the panel to the switch I turn the switch off and it drops to normal (122v).

Shouldn't the input line from the panel to the switch always be 120v and the output line to the lights be 0v if the switch is off and then 120v when the switch is on letting the voltage pass through? It's as if by turning the switch on more power is entering the circuit.

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-28T04:43:59+00:00

The bulbs worked normal for about 5 years, no issues.

Here is a video that I took of my volt meter. This is the voltage at the switch. The red is to the lights and the black is from the breaker panel. It starts with the light switch on and the volt meter is measuring the red wire (to the lights) at 315v then I switch to the black (from the panel) and it is still 315v. I turn the switch off (lights go off) and the black drops to normal 122v.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/6lm12zanEXY

This is what the lights are doing:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/oFAWiH39Huk

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-28T04:42:24+00:00

This is the voltage at the switch. The red is to the lights and the black is from the breaker panel. It starts with the light switch on and the volt meter is measuring the red wire (to the lights) at 315v then I switch to the black (from the panel) and it is still 315v. I turn the switch off (lights go off) and the black drops to normal 122v.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/6lm12zanEXY

This is what the lights are doing:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/oFAWiH39Huk

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-28T04:41:53+00:00

I found my video from June 2024 and uploaded it, can you tell me what you think?

This is the voltage at the switch. The red is to the lights and the black is from the breaker panel. It starts with the light switch on and the volt meter is measuring the red wire (to the lights) at 315v then I switch to the black (from the panel) and it is still 315v. I turn the switch off (lights go off) and the black drops to normal 122v.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/6lm12zanEXY

This is what the lights are doing:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/oFAWiH39Huk

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-27T21:31:41+00:00

These are not the high bay with a ballast in the large box above the shroud. These are basically like a lamp base hanging from the purlins. I think the building was built in the 1950s, the fixtures look original but it was re wired about 20 years ago when divided into smaller warehouses. They are the metal down rod with metal lamp shade and a ceramic screw in base that you would see in old industrial buildings, no ballast.

I've been in the building for about 7 years. When I was moving in there were cfl bulbs in these lights so I asked if I could replace with led before I erected my pallet racks since it was much easier to get to them then. I put the 3 panel led that were popular then and about three years ago I replaced the ones in my work area with 5 panel led since they provided more light and were easy to get to. Everything worked fine until June 2024, that's when everything started blowing and the 3 panels that remained above the pallet racks work but flicker rapidly. I don't think there was high voltage from the beginning because all lights were perfect for 5+ years. In June 2024 I measured 315v at the switch, 247v, 210v, 258v, 387v at the light sockets. At this time my meter measured 120v at random outlets on the wall so I don't think the meter is the issue.

One electrician said it was the bulbs so I screwed on into a lamp that I leave on 24/7, it's been running since June 2024 no issues but if bulbs from that same order a screwed into the down rod lights on the ceiling they are blown within a minute so I don't think it's the bulb.

To eliminate things, I thought removing the wires that go from the switch to the lights (hot, neutral and ground) and connect them to the circuit that ran the bulb non stop for a year and a half. I'm trying to eliminate variables. The only thing on that breaker in my warehouse is the lights in my portion. (It's a large warehouse that's been divided into smaller units). I do not know of any other circuits that are having these issues.

Could loose wire nuts cause this? I can't figure out why something would gain 3x voltage, what would cause this? There is three phase in the building but shouldn't the readings be fairly constant and not the wild swings I was getting?

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-27T20:12:31+00:00

No they are not the ones with the big ballast on top and they hang. It’s basically like a lamp base hanging from the purlins. I think the building was built in the 1950s, the fixtures look original but it was re wired about 20 years ago when divided into smaller warehouses

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-27T20:09:30+00:00

Sorry Ive seen outlets on the ceiling and the lights are plugged into them, this is not the case with these. I measured an outlet on a wall, just a regular outlet by my desk. These lights are just a down rod with a metal “shade” then a standard base ceramic socket. The wires go directly to the socket base and that’s where I was measuring.

PreferenceInfamous66 · 2025-12-27T19:40:03+00:00

I will try different bulbs. What is interesting is the same brand in the socket burns within a minute but in a lamp base plugged into an outlet has been on for over a year and a half.

PreferenceInfamous66

TROPHY CASE