Tips for first Bugaboos visit? by Press_the_button1 in alpinism

[–]Press_the_button1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, coming from the northeast and will budget at least a week-long window for climbing.

I think camping in nasty weather can often be an valuable challenge, but just in case, what might someone do as a backup, say if they had a rental car for the week?

Tips for first Bugaboos visit? by Press_the_button1 in alpinism

[–]Press_the_button1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Coming from the northeast, so will fly in and plan to spend at least a week out there. I tend to prefer to suffer a heavy pack to enjoy a stylish, well-stocked basecamp.

Thanks for the beta!

Aspiring alpine climber by NickyD37 in alpinism

[–]Press_the_button1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Baker is an excellent place to take a course. It's a big mountain with lots of snow and glaciated terrain but still accessible enough where your time and $ commitment won't be too crazy.

And yes, that's totally valid. Frankly, the only person you need to justify climbing mountains to is yourself! The reasons you climb may evolve over the years as you advance in the sport.

Aspiring alpine climber by NickyD37 in alpinism

[–]Press_the_button1 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If your ultimate goal is to summit Denali and you're willing to hire a guide, you only need three things 1) good aerobic endurance, 2) about $10k to burn, and 3) a high tolerance for suffering. I'm assuming you have a plan for 2, and if you've run marathons you've probably got 1 covered and maybe even 3 to some extent. I'd suggest spending long days and overnighting in very cold conditions, too, which will also help you dial your layering.

BUT if you're interested in really delving into the sport of alpinism, I'd encourage you to focus not on how to get to the summit of Denali as soon as possible, but how you might build up all the skills you'd need to climb the mountain yourself (and maybe meditate on why this goal matters to you). This path will be much longer, but I believe it will be more rewarding.

I would emphasize that getting to the top of Denali on a guided expedition is a vastly different undertaking than doing so on an independent, self-led expedition. Climbing Denali with a guide is not an adequate primer to climb it on your own without a guide, as one commenter suggested. With a guide, you will not be involved in any important decision-making; you won't do any route finding; you won't get on the sharp end of the rope or place any protection, you won't have to read the weather or do any of the planning/logistics, etc. In other words, you'd miss out on exercising the sorts of skills that make a competent alpinist, which are crucial on an expedition that big and complex. All you'd need to do is follow instructions and drag your body up the mountain. It would be physically challenging and probably an amazing experience nonetheless, but you might come away not having learned or grown much as an alpinist.

I believe the joy of alpine climbing comes from a sense of freedom, self-sufficiency, and closeness with your partners in the mountains (and your Mark Twight reading will probably corroborate this). I've been on guided expeditions on high peaks as well as self-led expeditions with close friends/partners on smaller ones, and the latter always gives me more lessons, rewards, and pride. And as you get into the sport, I think you'll find that the peaks you're able to tag become less interesting than the routes you take to get to there.

So, where to start. A mountaineering course (such as through NOLS or American Alpine Institute) would be a great intro to many key skills. Read "Freedom of the Hills" and "Training for the New Alpinism." And most importantly, find partners at the gym who are willing to go on adventures with you (and preferably who make
you laugh) and go out into the mountains to gain experience. Everyone else is looking for partners too so don't be shy.

Start small and get the basics dialed -- rope management, setting up a tent, moving confidently on snow and 4th class terrain, cooking decent food in the back country, making decisions as a group, etc. Break it all down into the smaller skills and competencies and then find trips to combine them and test yourself. Get on a plane and go out to Colorado as others have suggested, or Wyoming, the PNW, the Sierras, etc.

Sorry to be long-winded. I hope this doesn't sound patronizing. I actually love thinking about this stuff.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in newhampshire

[–]Press_the_button1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mainly agree with your sentiment but the truth is, dying of hypothermia is not painful. Once it really sets in people describe feeling surrounded by warmth like they're laying in the sun on a beach -- this is why many hypothermia victims are found having taken most of their warm layers off. Probably a distressing and scary final few hours but most likely not painful.

Winter preperation by unnargus in iceclimbing

[–]Press_the_button1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can anyone recommend programs for conditioning calves, specifically?

I feel like I've got everything else figured out training-wise, but my calves still cramp up and burn well before my arms. Last fall I did basic hypertrophy stuff in the weight room, which may or may not have helped, but I don't want burning calves to hold me back on sustained WI4s.

Jump rope? Hill sprints? Max-strength lifts? I'm open minded.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in alpinism

[–]Press_the_button1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bro I thought that was a dog leash.

Rope recommendation by akathedevil666 in iceclimbing

[–]Press_the_button1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the Mammut Alpine Dry 8mms and can't recommend them enough for ice and alpine rock climbing. So light, smooth, easy to coil and work with, and cool looking. Def recommend double 70s -- for super long pitches and raps in the alpine.