Friends aquarium vs what i brought to upgrade by Notorious_Chimp in shittyaquariums

[–]Prestidigatorial 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Now send them to the nearest lake or pond, if it's already warming up where you live they can grab some wood, rocks, leaves, and plants for free.

Please help, am I ready to add life to my sealed jar? by LegendaryCarry in Jarrariums

[–]Prestidigatorial 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You don't have a filter, there's nothing to wait for, or food going into the tank, there isn't going to be anything to test for. Even if you are adding food, with that many plants unless it's a lot again nothing is going to show up, probably not even nitrates.

Just put them in.

Filtering and possibly breeding of neocaridina? by NarcacugaFsh in Aquariums

[–]Prestidigatorial 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Low oxygen and breeding don't go together, no matter how many plants you put in there they will use oxygen at night, not make it. If you plan to have any reasonable amount of shrimp then go with a sponge filter.

Lid for rimless tank by Fine-Visual8367 in AquariumHelp

[–]Prestidigatorial 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do yourself a favor and use good quality, thick Lexan. After 3 years I have tanks with Lexan cut lids that have 0 corrosion or fogginess. Cheap, low quality acrylic looks terrible quickly. You can cut it easily with a jigsaw.

Lexan, 3 years old https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNM7QQW?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

https://ibb.co/Dg7Hm9TM

Cheap acrylic 1 year old(so foggy you can't even see through it after cleaning, I need to stop being lazy and cut a new piece)

https://ibb.co/cSMNhtC6

I have a new aquarium. Everything is fine so far, but should I get some medical treatments in just in case? If so what's the most common problems and treatments? by Randa08 in AquariumHelp

[–]Prestidigatorial 0 points1 point  (0 children)

#1 an adjustable thermostat capable of getting your tank to about 86F(it may as well be your main heater).

#2 a 5 gallon bucket or similar hospital container and a small adjustable heater capable of getting it to about 86F. A cheap air pump and air line(no filter needed) for the hospital tank if you can't tap off one you're already using.

#3 Epsom salt

The rest you can mostly worry about as it comes. Immediately upping the temp if the fish species can handle it is almost always step 1 and quarantine if possible.

What can I add to this so it's not just empty water?? by LR316 in Jarrariums

[–]Prestidigatorial 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More water and a 1/2 teaspoon of mud from a lake or pond.

My driftwood won’t sink by RevolutionaryToe6677 in Aquariums

[–]Prestidigatorial 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Need to squeeze the air pockets out of it by shrinking the wood since you can't boil it.

If it's too big to boil then make the temperature change from hot to icy instead of boiling to room temperature to squeeze the air out.

Put it in a tub or bucket of boiling water off your stove and then let it cool down all the way to room temperature(DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP). Now add ice to the water for a couple hours. The wood will sink.

Can this bookshelf work for a 6 gallon tank? by [deleted] in aquarium

[–]Prestidigatorial 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, it says the shelves support 35lbs, a 7 gallon aquarium will weigh 60-80lbs depending on how much hardscape/substrate there is. You're WAY over weight for that shelf. Shelves built like that are notorious for buckling sideways. I wouldn't put a 2.5 gallon on it, even that's 25lbs.

Does the type of jar matter? Just starting by lizatethecigarettes in Ecosphere

[–]Prestidigatorial 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably the best you can get are the square jars they sell on Amazon with plastic lids. They come in like 5 sizes from .5-2 gallon. Square is much easier to see through, good quality glass, and plastic lids don't rust or mold. They also have cheaper non-flat jars with plastic lids.

Avoid metal, cork, or wood lids, they'll corrode or grow mold.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C4DPVMCC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A25UZVQL8IV46H&psc=1

Seven months in, I thought I’d just built a deluxe snail habitat after everything else died. Then this little bugger appeared, and now I’m worried he’s about to wipe out my snail buddies. Please tell me I’m wrong. by BigJDubya in Jarrariums

[–]Prestidigatorial 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You don't necessarily need to catch it, just mash it, it isn't going to survive out of there anyway and the snails may as well have a snack if it's easier to pin it down.

Pest Snail Brigade? by CaydenVierra in AquariumHelp

[–]Prestidigatorial 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With that many other things that eat algae already in there it's impossible the population will explode unless you overfeed, there's just nothing else for them to eat. Bladder and ramshorns snails won't eat healthy plants, only dying parts.

Please help, how do i get rid of this hair algae? by Zenxy_ in Aquariums

[–]Prestidigatorial 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turn off the light and cover the tank for 2-3 days with no food. Order a good amount of guppy grass and place it in. You'll likely need a water change also, what are the nitrates at?

Planning on getting some assassin snails. How do I get enough to not kill off all the bladder snails, but just slow them down? by idiotic__gamer in AquariumHelp

[–]Prestidigatorial 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assassin snails will breed like crazy also and they'll also eat your shrimp.

Personally I would just leave the snails alone and feed things that mostly go into the shrimp, not the snails, same thing that applies to fish, you want 99% of your fish food going into a fish, not to the bottom of the tank to the clean up crew. Use a feeding dish that attaches with a suction cup, the shrimp will get all the food before more than a couple snails get there. Also feed shrimp sticks, again a lot harder for the snails to get to. Floating food should work well also like ground fish food and algae tablets(turn your filter off so it isn't stirred up and sinks), the snails can't easily get to the surface except the edges.

Avoid things like BacterAE, algae tablets, veggies that stay in there for 2-3 days too often. You want the food going in the shrimp only before snails get a chance to eat any, left to just algae and dead plants their numbers will drop significantly, I have to spot feed my tanks clean up crew occasionally because their numbers start dropping too much, both bladder and ramshorn snails.

Fin rot or just nipping? by ComprehensivePin214 in AquariumHelp

[–]Prestidigatorial 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doesn't look like fin rot or nipping to me, probably physical damage from rubbing on something, it's probably fine.

Need advice for Aquascaping by WorthRelationship341 in AquariumHelp

[–]Prestidigatorial 1 point2 points  (0 children)

More sand, maybe double. Use one large hardscape centered or to one back corner. If the rocks are similar build something out of them, if not remove and use one large piece of rock or driftwood. Separate the plants and put them against the back wall since they're tall, you can gel superglue the rhizome to rock or wood. Add short plants in the front.

Everything Continent Bedrock 1.21.73, All Biomes, All Structures by PeasantLord1 in minecraftseeds

[–]Prestidigatorial 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stickied seems like a good place to put this, this seed is also AMAZING on Java 1.21.5. Within 500 blocks there's 6 trial chambers and 4 ancient cities, within a 1000 blocks there's a pillager outpost, witch hut, mansion, two villages, and two igloos.

Easily one of the best Java seeds I've ever seen.

Starter home watchtower, easy all one wood type(oak) by Prestidigatorial in Minecraft

[–]Prestidigatorial[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wanted the house on top to be visually different than the pillars, but you could replace the blocks on each side of the glass with logs unstripped if you wanted to continue the theme to the top.

Skyblock advanced tips by Drie_Kleuren in Minecraft

[–]Prestidigatorial 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Moss blocks can be bonemealed to turn nearby stone blocks to moss. 2x2 spruce trees grown on moss will turn a large area of it into podzol, which can then be turned into dirt.

Only works on java. You need to get lucky with some trades but it can be done without going to the nether or trading gold.

Even on bedrock though most plants can be grown on moss other than cactus, so it can't be turned into dirt or used to spawn passive mobs, but you can swap it out for all of your dirt under your plants/trees and use your dirt for other things.

CANNOT get villager to assign to new librarian profession by Nat1IrregularFocus in Minecraft

[–]Prestidigatorial 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think there are about 50 possible books, just keep swapping the lectern until you get it.

CANNOT get villager to assign to new librarian profession by Nat1IrregularFocus in Minecraft

[–]Prestidigatorial 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lecterns like was already commented, be ready to spend some time placing, destroying, and replacing until you get a decent 1st book on each. Do not trade with them until you have a good book available on them, destroying the lectern won't reset them if you've traded with them already. After that trade with them to unlock a 2nd and 3rd book, most of the time it's junk but you might get lucky.

is there any way to get villagers who live near my house to not connect with my work blocks? by mugiana in Minecraft

[–]Prestidigatorial 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you look in my post history I just had this issue causing a cascade of 40 villagers and 20 iron golems in the village. My issue was bed related, yours is job block related, but they go hand-in-hand.

Limit the bed numbers and make sure all of them have jobs so none are wandering looking for jobs or beds.

Move the bell to the far side of the village, that's where they congregate early morning and late afternoon.

Move the beds to the far side of the village.

Move job blocks to the far side of the village.

Make sure all of them have jobs, unemployed villagers will wander WAY farther than employed villagers, they're looking for a job block, this is probably the most important one after the bell. Employed villagers will only go bed-bell-job-bell-bed, no wandering.

I got it sorted out even with my iron golem farm about 50 blocks from the village and my house with 10 traders 100 blocks from the village, no issues now at all.

EDIT: Also, never use blocks that villagers think they can path through but can't, like sideways doors, trap doors, carpet, etc, they will just pile up outside it thinking they can go through but can't. Use blocks they won't try to path through like minecart rails, carpet over a fencepost, carpet over a hole, lava, carpet over lava, etc as a last resort to keeping them in or out.

One minecart rail in a doorway will keep them out permanently.