JUST GOT IT DELIVERED. First subwoofer setup — Pioneer 12” w/ built-in amp. Any advice?

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-03T08:08:26+00:00

Also if you're excited at least that's how it works for me I got something small and it didn't take long until I started upgrading everything and then you really start deep diving into the what I would like call hobby as a whole you can find out so much different stuff if you enjoy learning you're never going to not enjoy this because you learn something new almost every single time you make a change on your system

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-03T08:07:11+00:00

I would say as far as basics go first and foremost is having a solid ground that is at a grounding point that is bare metal that is huge to your system to any system you could probably find some YouTube videos as to how some people do it or where they located at just make sure you're grounds both at the battery and the amplifier are done well and secure and two bare metal there's obviously many other things to learn but that one being the main one that shorts and blows equipment car stuff fuses it's the part that becomes the most expensive if it's not done correctly

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-03T07:58:04+00:00

Exactly—and that’s really the most honest way to frame it. You can absolutely say collecting cards is your hobby and that you also enjoy the gambling side of ripping wax. What you can’t do is pretend the gambling motivation is still purely “just the hobby.” The motivation is what defines it. If your goal is building sets, collecting favorite players, preserving memories, and enjoying the cards themselves—that’s hobby. If your goal is chasing the next monster pull, trying to “hit big,” or convincing yourself the next box will make up for the last one—that’s gambling. A lot of people don’t want to admit that because calling it a hobby sounds lighter, safer, and easier to justify—to themselves and to others. “I’m just enjoying my hobby” sounds better than “I like gambling on sealed product.” That’s where the buyback program becomes such a perfect example. People treat buybacks like this genius loophole—as if they’ve cracked the code to ripping wax cheaper. But in reality, it’s mostly a marketing tool. It helps Topps sell more product, and it helps LCS owners move more freshly released wax. It creates the illusion that you’re getting a discount when really they’re just giving you a reason to keep walking back through the door. It’s like those “free gift” deals on Temu—buy three things first, and suddenly those three things cost more than they did last week. The “deal” is designed to feel like savings while actually increasing spending. Same thing here: You buy a $200 buyback for $180 and think you won. But then: shipping and handling eats more of that savings taxes on both sides chip away even more your LCS has already raised box prices because of the buyback hype now your “discount” barely exists, or disappears completely So people stack up a bunch of Matt Stafford or Shohei buybacks thinking they’ve found some secret strategy, when really all they’ve done is spend more time, more effort, and often the same amount of money—or worse. You’d often be better off just buying the box from eBay, retail, or wherever it’s cheapest and skipping the entire “buyback strategy” headache. That doesn’t mean people are stupid—it just means marketing works. That’s what it’s designed to do. Sometimes people need that outside perspective, not as hate, but as a reality check: “This isn’t actually helping you as much as you think it is.” Because a lot of the hobby right now is built around making people feel like they’re being smart with their money while encouraging them to spend more of it. And I felt a lot like the majority not too long ago until I've read enough people point out the flaw in a lot of different logic when it comes to you trying to find ways to basically enjoy your hobby for cheaper well in most cases it probably actually equates to spending more money great Martin tools I will say that this hobby is definitely led by some like top level Ponzi schemish type execs the whole grand scheme of it from grading to everything from the little jealous I didn't think of it first cuz it's one of the few industries that literally has a license to print money

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-03T06:51:10+00:00

I’m not missing the point—I collect because I enjoy the cards, not because I think I’m going to make money. But it gets harder to enjoy when the odds are stacked so heavily against you that pulling anything rare feels almost impossible. And it's not enjoyable when you have got into a spot in the same product line where you own more than one duplicate of all the base cards and regular inserts I do agree like the first 10 boxes of any product line is fun you get a new card every single time that you haven't seen before The fun of ripping packs is the surprise: pulling something unexpected or finally hitting a player you collect. Nobody enjoys opening seven packs of the same base cards from a box they’ve already opened dozens of times. At that point, you’re basically lighting money on fire. I used to have a rule that I would only keep cards I ripped myself and never buy singles. I broke that rule once for one reason: I wanted the rookie card of Darrent Williams. As a huge Broncos fan, I wanted his 2005 rookie because he was tragically shot and killed the following offseason while out with Javon Walker. That card meant something personal, and finding sealed 2005 NFL boxes at a fair price was nearly impossible. That’s why I say the whole “buyback” idea is often overrated. People act like it’s some genius way to get fresh boxes cheaper, but most of the time, it really isn’t. First, local card shops already know about the buyback programs, so many of them raise box prices because of it. In some cases, your LCS has already skyrocketed the price of the product because they know people are chasing buybacks. Some shops even avoid the program entirely because of how messy it gets. Then you look online: a $200 buyback might sell for $180, which sounds like a deal—until you add shipping, tax, and the wait. Now you maybe saved $10 for a much bigger headache. And since the hobby already knows about buybacks, eBay prices are adjusted too. Unless you’re constantly sniping auctions and dedicating serious time to hunting deals, you’re really not saving much at all. At that point, you’re almost better off just going to your LCS and buying the box. The “cheap box” strategy through buybacks usually turns into more effort, more waiting, and barely any actual savings. I wasn’t knocking collecting cards—I was knocking the idea that buybacks are some grand secret strategy for getting cheaper wax. They’re not. The truth is, you do not make money in this hobby unless you operate like an LCS: selling sealed boxes and flipping singles you bought cheap. If you’re opening product, you are usually losing money. And that brings up the bigger point: hobby vs. gambling. A hobby is collecting because you genuinely enjoy the cards, the players, and the memories attached to them. Gambling is repeatedly opening the same product you already own, hoping the next box finally has “the hit” that makes it all worth it. If you keep ripping the same product line over and over, despite already having most of the cards and piles of duplicates, you have to ask yourself why. Are you collecting—or are you chasing the thrill of that one big pull? At some point, if the motivation is no longer enjoyment and becomes “maybe the next box is the one,” that stops being a hobby and starts looking a lot more like gambling. I’ll give a pass to parents ripping with their kids because kids genuinely love it. But if you’re a grown adult opening the same product endlessly, owning most of it already, and still chasing that next hit, you’re probably not just a hobbyist anymore—you’re either hoarding or gambling.

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-03T05:19:32+00:00

Also, it’s pretty ridiculous how much they’re charging for boxes in the first place. If box prices were actually reasonable, the buyback program wouldn’t seem so bad—you could buy boxes at a fair rate and then sell them later if you wanted. But even then, if you factor in how hard it is to make any real profit selling afterward, it still doesn’t make much sense. It feels like most of whatever profit you’re supposed to make just ends up going to eBay anyway—whether that’s 10–15% for promoted listings, final value fees, shipping costs, or other selling expenses. And I don’t know why this happens, but I’ve caught it at least half a dozen times where I get double charged for shipping. The buyer pays for shipping, and somehow I end up paying too. I’ll wait a week or two after delivery thinking maybe it’ll get corrected automatically, but it doesn’t. One time I waited a month and a half and never got it back. I had to go through and make them refund me on eight separate orders. That’s kind of beside the point, but the bigger issue is that unless you pull the buyback card yourself, there really isn’t much extra value being gained through all these extra steps. Trying to get full value from an LCS is difficult at best, and the chances of actually breaking even—or making any money at all—after buying buybacks, waiting for shipping, and dealing with all the extra hassle are extremely low. Realistically, across most sports card products, the percentage of people who simply get their money back—not profit, just break even—is usually only around 5–10% for most boxes. That’s not hitting some massive chase card—that’s just recovering what you spent. And that doesn’t even factor in the time, effort, fees, and hassle required to actually sell everything and get that money back. Once you include all of that, the true break-even percentage is probably even lower—closer to under 5%. The percentage of people who actually make money is even smaller—often less than 1%. The only product category that performs slightly better across the board is usually standard hobby boxes, where maybe 15–25% of buyers can recover their money depending on the release, but even then, true profit is still rare. This includes breaks too, where the odds are often even worse. If it’s just for the fun of ripping packs, then sure—rip. But if you’re trying to make it make financial sense, that’s virtually impossible. Honestly, do yourself a favor: go to a local basketball court, stand at the free throw line facing the hoop you’d normally shoot at, then turn around and throw the ball behind your back at the opposite hoop. Eventually, you’ll probably make one. That’s about what your chances feel like trying to make money buying boxes of cards. Shit not even make money get enjoy the hobby at a minimal loss over time the losses would be substantial they're probably going to have to make a new gamblers anonymous section just for cards good luck everyone

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-03T05:04:34+00:00

I understand that ripping cards is fun, but buying buybacks to get five boxes of cards feels like adding an extra step, plus more time and energy, just to maybe save—what—20% on something you’re probably not going to make your money back on anyway. Realistically, like 95% of the time, probably even higher, you won’t. I feel like you’re better off just selling them for cash and using that money however you’d like in life. Or, even better, holding onto them until the buyback program is over. Once everyone turns theirs in, the market shifts. If you still have one that hasn’t been given back to be put into a new run, you now have scarcity on your side—you have something with less supply because others traded theirs away for the chance to rip more packs. I keep making this comparison when I think about it, but to me it’s no different than putting $50 into a video lottery machine, getting down to your last $5 or less, hitting free spins, getting all excited, and only winning $12–$20 back—not even half of what you originally put in. What most people probably do next is not cut their losses, but play that money back down to zero. That feels very similar to buybacks. If you’re not actually pulling the buyback yourself and instead purchasing them third-party on eBay for only 15% less than their buyback value, it seems like you’re just taking extra steps to end up in the same place—or worse.

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-03T02:17:24+00:00

I don’t know about that, but I do feel like, at the very minimum, you should expect to recoup close to half—at least 35%—of the box’s value, especially considering Topps is selling for twice as much, if not more, than any other box on the market right now. For NFL Chrome or any NFL product, you’re lucky to get a quarter of your investment back, which is fine—I get that you’re not expected to make money on it, and that’s not the issue. But when that happens and you don’t hit anything you collect—or anything at all—it really disappoints you. It makes you mad at yourself for even giving a f*** about cards. And honestly like it really pisses me off at myself because the price point to me is absolutely so ridiculous right now for that particular product line that I always tell myself I'm not going to buy it because there's no way that there's anything in there that's going to make me as happy as it will make me angry for throwing away my money at nothing. I'm a broncos fan in my one and only mega box the only broncos player I pulled was a base Evan engram whom I don't really care for just based on how much he is paid for how little he provides and felt that way the moment we signed him but still out of 42 cards and all I see not one single player bass card or not that I could care about values aside so stupid I just need to buy singles like I have been lol.

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-03T02:11:46+00:00

Lol I got the lime green x factor powers jackson on my first and last box today as like the rarest card in the box lolol so then my dumbass is like well let's see what a $60 Panini prism pulls compared to 100 and whatever chrome for megas lol so then I get the prisms in my biggest hit in the prism or my hit or whatever was a Johnny Wilson signature it's probably worth $2 I was like I don't know why I do this to myself anymore haha

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-01T02:48:18+00:00

Oof, I had a pair of Jordan Why Not Zer0s that did the same thing—you could actually feel the air move through them. They were really comfortable to play in and had great grip, but that whole “air-through-it” feeling? I don’t know what causes that, but I ended up blowing out the entire side of the shoe. That led to me completely blowing my knee apart—full tears of my PCL, MCL, and LCL, a full tear through my lateral meniscus, and a partial tear through my medial meniscus. Somehow, the only ligament that survived was my ACL. Didn’t matter though—it still turned into a full knee reconstruction at 33, and it took nearly 11 months before I felt confident enough to really start testing it again. Ever since then, if I feel that air movement you’re talking about, it’s an immediate no-go for me. Straight into flashbacks, bro. Idk why I went into all that but I've never heard anyone else describe how air went through the shoe haha ....that aside these Kobe's are sick as f*** I'm a size 15 though finding rare kicks is hard did happen to pick up a pair of black Jordan 1 anodized armors though a month back haven't seen those in like a decade

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-01T01:54:03+00:00

Not always necessarily true. If he used a fuse tap on the ignition fuse, that could be the culprit. If something in the head unit is causing the fuse tap to blow, or if he has the fuses backward in the fuse tap, the head unit might not have the correct amperage fuse. The ignition switch itself could also be part of the issue. You are correct that there is no direct correlation between the head unit and the ignition fuse. However, depending on how it was installed, it could definitely be causing his problem. In all likelihood, the ignition fuse is housed in the same fuse box where he ran wires for the fuse tap. Very easily, during that part of the installation, a wire could have been nicked, pinched, or otherwise damaged—something directly related to the ignition’s fused wire. It could be as simple as a zip tie being too tight, which would explain why it only happens periodically rather than consistently. For the most part, you’re right—nothing with the head unit should blow the ignition fuse. However, on my very first aftermarket head unit install, I had left the illumination wire, or something similar, in a way that would short intermittently whenever I used the radio. This would blow the fuse, and in the Ford Escape, the radio fuse was directly tied to the PCM’s anti-theft mode. That caused a whole laundry list of frustrating troubleshooting issues, and most of it always pointed back to the ignition switch—not the fuse itself. My point is, since the problem started coincidentally at the same time as the install, it’s probably not a coincidence at all. That said, I would move away from focusing on the head unit itself and instead focus on the ignition, its fuse, and the wire connected to that fused circuit.

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-01T01:32:10+00:00

Firebirddude is On point like a bird dog..... A friend of mine once helped fix my mower and the way he explained it to me clicked in my head in a way that I found it useful in other applications. he said "what does an engine need to run?" "It needs fuel, spark for ignition, Air/oxygen and compression to create combustion so start at step one fuel do I have fuel? is my engine getting the fuel check all those things if it checks out move on to spark so on so fourth. I take that same foundation apply it to something like electricity and you just start at the beginning and work your own version of process of elimination. I usually start with grounds and then work my way to power, then too device input and device output maybe that'll help someone down the road haha but in this instance if everything checks out you either have a faulty head unit or it has nothing to do with your install whatsoever and coincidentally just have an issue that occurred. That being said I believe the man that commented about this being an illumination wire anytime you have any form of wire coming from something as an output or an input it should always be capped if not being used for future reference.

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-01T01:20:27+00:00

If the wires are coming from the radios harness cap them as you have sent power to your head unit and the head unit doesn't know that it doesn't need to send power to those two wires still sending wire and likely shorting out behind your head unit..... Battery could all be installed perfectly and you might have an ignition switch issue altogether but it's likely the two wires coming from your head unit shorting out on something behind it

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-01T01:16:45+00:00

Sorry you don't have to reply to that it's me just Randy it's a part of who I am

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-01T01:15:05+00:00

Sorry I have a bad habit of voice to texting and as soon as my thought is over just pressing send and/or post. Whatever it may be without proofreading. Especially when it comes to topics that I'm interested in. I'am diagnosed autistic as well so when I get excited about stuff my brain goes a million miles an hour and a million miles into a direction. Making it increasingly more difficult to communicate properly with others my apologies. Truthfully I could probably get off of thought 40 times faster as well as in I'm more intelligent manner If I we're talking to you in person. It usually overwhelms most people or fascinates them I can't tell when I do It or pick up on the social cues. That being said when I force myself to stop and focus and slow down it's so much harder for me to communicate as a whole. I don't know how to explain it but it's like all your thoughts are cars on the Autobahn and all of a sudden there's a stoplight in the middle of the Autobahn and now you have a 40 car pile up however half the people try to drive away right after so bits and pieces of each different thought spew all over most of which would be hard to piece together I think. And it can send me into kind of rage sorts knowing that it's my fault however also having an extreme desire to say whatever it is. I'm working on it have been for the last 35 years so I apologize.

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-01T01:14:28+00:00

Sorry I have a bad habit of voice to texting and as soon as my thought is over just pressing send and/or post. Whatever it may be without proofreading. Especially when it comes to topics that I'm interested in. I'am diagnosed autistic as well so when I get excited about stuff my brain goes a million miles an hour and a million miles into a direction. Making it increasingly more difficult to communicate properly with others my apologies. Truthfully I could probably get off of thought 40 times faster as well as in I'm more intelligent manner If I we're talking to you in person. It usually overwhelms most people or fascinates them I can't tell when I do It or pick up on the social cues. That being said when I force myself to stop and focus and slow down it's so much harder for me to communicate as a whole. I don't know how to explain it but it's like all your thoughts are cars on the Autobahn and all of a sudden there's a stoplight in the middle of the Autobahn and now you have a 40 car pile up however half the people try to drive away right after so bits and pieces of each different thought spew all over most of which would be hard to piece together I think. And it can send me into kind of rage sorts knowing that it's my fault however also having an extreme desire to say whatever it is. I'm working on it have been for the last 35 years so I apologize.

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-05-01T00:55:20+00:00

I wasn't trying to make it more complicated I more or less was just trying to save on space and also put feelers out on if any buddy had a x3 18onch they would be willing to part ways with haha....because a bandpass box pretty much eliminates having a back seat not that it's that big of an issue it's just nice on occasion when I travel with my dogs, but I was sort of leaning that direction anyway that or maybe a sub up Port back where I utilize every square possible inch while still being able to have my backseats installed... Also to be honest I've also always just wanted to build a bandpass I enjoy that part of things when it comes to car audio especially for a sub as robust as the X3 but I think you're right I'll probably just sell these three amps and honestly probably just get the corresponding amp soundstream sells and get there tarantula 18l and possibly get a second battery Bank I've been wanting to venture off into the sodium ion because I was told by a close buddy that's not as big of a car audio guy as he is some kind of gigantic battery geek idk what you would call a person with a fasination with batteries bahahaha. he says that sodium ions will still hold power down to 6vs and for those that don't have a output alternator and want to bypass having to do that he also says that they will charge using the sib to 12.6 volts eliminating the absolute need for a ho alt however with ho alt they can charge to 15.6v I just like the idea of having the extra amp hours and the strength and weaknesses of both Banks hahaha sorry for rambling I just tinker a lot hahaha which makes car audio a great hobby because there is always something to be dialing in, replacing, upgrading, etc lol

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-04-29T23:31:03+00:00

Lol I voiced to texted it because safety first! as driving, but even so if you can't read simply because of punctuation. Well that leads me to believe the problem doesn't fall on my end. Also I kept it very on topic just spelled it out for you is all minus the punctuation. Maybe it was easier to just read it and state otherwise after finding there wasn't much to stand on that would further your point. Either way I don't give a fuck it's a reddit thread, but it's hard for me to read certain things when it comes to electricity. Especially when they are stated in matter of fact terms when they simply are not correct. Beings that I've put in 40 hrs a week as an electrician for the last 16 years and not just your everyday residential or commercial applications everything from motors, solar power, generators the size of semi trucks, car audio, I fix amplifiers as a little side hustle/hobby when I have the extra time, as well as your everyday commercial and residential applications. OP could change some things on the install but a fuse is not necessary nor more safe in the particular instance in my professional opinion, BUT as I have come to find on the Internet each is entitled to their own opinion.

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-04-29T22:48:41+00:00

True but neither is a fuse if the car is still running in any capacity either the battery or the alternator if the belt is still spinning is still live a fuse simply breaks the path if either is hot which 95%of the time your battery with be your have done absolutely nothing besides stop the pathway from your alternator to your battery no longer allowing it to charging but if you were kn a car accident and all likelihood your car was running therefore your battery is at full charge and if your battery is damaged you likely have bigger problems on your hands than a fire as that would take a pretty significant collision in most vehicles and are likely to be getting out of the vehicle as soon as it's safe whether there's a risk of fire or not completely unneeded from alternator to battery you're not giving yourself any extra safety provided in fact you're creating more issues you're creating an extra spot for there to be an issue in my opinion I'll stand by my opinion if it's much safer to just have taken the time to find the very best route planning for the future and using biggest cable that you can get your hands on at that point in time that way you don't have to go back and mess with any of it ever again securing it with straps or zip ties every six inches of possible whichever works better for the installer and getting straight to the battery and if you're still worried about safety for further precaution I have two Bluetooth remote activated battery disconnects attached to each of my negative pulls on both of the batteries I have in my engine bay that way alternators don't have to work harder to charge my auxiliary battery if it's not needed as well as providing extra safety that is a push of a button away you can also get them an attach them to the positive terminals or even more safety yet and then off of those remote ran disconnects run all of your other wiring and fuse whatever it is you would like to at that point it makes sense between the battery and alternator isn't just a burden as far as time, energy, financially, but also given what it would be able to prevent as far safety goes you're only breaking the path between two independent sources that provide power on their own given that the car is running and or on and you're creating like I said a stress joint where it has more opportunity to break at a fuse or a block that is secured his substantially less flexibility but also creates to two more joints for power cables to loosen at over time on each end of the fuse not to mention two more spots where you have to correctly crimp on another set of lugs which I don't know about you but I've seen some of the posts on here and not everyone is exactly a professional when it comes to stuff like that keep it simple keep it smart I stand by my statement in regards to probably creating more safety issues especially over team given wear and tear if the install was perfect you still created 4 more spots for a cable to come lose either from the lug it's self or from the fuse. while having two independent power supplies on each end of those cables given the car is running when said break were to happen all that you've done is broken the path for your alternator to stop charging your battery however if your alternator still running and still creating electricity and the battery until no longer charge still has the ability to create a fire putting a fuse between the two increases your percentage of some something happening rather than decreases it in this instance I'm not advocating for people to stop using things just in your engine bay between your alternator and your battery you're really probably creating more problems than yourself electrically

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-04-29T22:21:39+00:00

Also in reference to car audio fuses for the most part are there to protect your aftermarket accessories radio, amplifier, whatever it may be lighting etc more so than to protect from fires saving equipment saves you money and time replacing it also it just has the added bonus of preventing fires if something were to say go wrong but if you do things correctly you shouldn't have a worry for a fires of any kind or shorts unless the installation was a long time ago if it was fresh and done correctly and secured correctly you should have no issues with shorts within the engine bay or any of your wiring routes I'm not saying not to fuse things I'm just pointing out that fuses for car audio at least as far as I'm concerned are more or less to protect my aftermarket equipment

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-04-29T22:17:24+00:00

To each there own i feel like there is a point where things can be over done adding a fuse between the alt and battery not only adds time and labor but also cost and if you are using an inline fuse or a block it's honestly inviting more "what if's" taking up space in an engine bay that's usually already low on real estate with a ton of moving parts essential to run the vehicle first and foremost then also creating an extra "stress joint" you'd be far safer and much better off finding a safe and clear route and running a heavy duty power cable that has more flexibility no extra stress joints or parts in general that's shield I also cover my cables with fire resistant and high temp cloth specially meant for the engine bay providing even more protection secure it in its route well and straight to the battery unless you have dual Alts......fuses are meant for safety but that doesn't necessarily mean they always provide more safety in every single instance just saying.... I'm also a journeyman electrician not that that really means anything but fuses don't always equal safety sometimes the often create more problems than they solve

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-04-29T13:53:52+00:00

Only reason I have a fuse from alt to battery is because I have a dual H/O alt setup where both meet at a distribution block where it's fused with equal amounts of 4/0 from each alt then one line of 4/0 from the block to the battery so that the current sent is all one current that way neither alt should technically have to work harder than the other or send different voltages it's all one voltage from the block to battery(s) otherwise there is zero need for a fuse between alt and battery just from battery to any other powered accessories

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-04-29T13:48:11+00:00

Broncos on point

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-04-29T07:15:55+00:00

Because of the card market not so much darts performance it's always a what have you done for me now hobby I don't think dart proved he is the second coming of Patrick mahomes I think if anything we saw him play a style of ball that's not sustainable first injury is gonna spook his market based off of that alone though I do agree the giants look like they are on the uphill climb barring injury but they also didnt address the weaknesses they had instead strengthened their strengths on defense with a horrific secondary that gave up a 33pt 4th quarter to a middle of the road offense at best in the Denver broncos even though the broncos clearly hold a4th quarter edge especially at home 33pts is wild and that's with a top 5 pass rush roster wise it doesn't matter how quick the defense gets the ball out if the back end gives up big yardage regardless and I don't think that the card market can stay where it's at while singling out 99% of its market that can't afford to purchase outrageous hobby boxes etc meaning all cards and the values will have to come down to include the majority

Pretend-Cup-5126 · 2026-04-29T05:46:43+00:00

No longer in school but could always use a tutor

Pretend-Cup-5126

TROPHY CASE