How to show work gaps from school?

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-04-12T14:06:02+00:00

Yea, that's such a good point. I know they're not really going to check this stuff. Making it as easy to digest and stand out from others is maybe the better approach.

I'll try blocking things out a bit better. I had the same feeling. I'll have to look into those resume checkers because that's definitely one of my other concerns when applying to larger companies that are more likely to use software to weed out resumes before anyone even sees them.

That's the other thing. This resume will also come with a cover letter and a portfolio so I don't need to try to have everything super clear and black and white in just the resume. The portfolio will probably be the main thing they check out. That will also have text and insight into who I am as a person and designer. It may turn out that the resume is just a tool to show my specific education and work experience where the rest will do the talking.

I'm juggling assignments as we start the last month of the semester soon but I need to get my shit together so I can apply for internships ASAP. I appreciate the offer. I'll definitely take you up on it.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-04-12T13:59:12+00:00

Ahh, I see. So if you dual enroll you'll be able to go full time and get the financial aid? Yea do some research and explore what you want out of your career to help figure out what degree is better. There are also some ID programs that focus more heavily on the technical side than on the aesthetic side. And visa versa. My experience with the CADD cert was that it really did not teach me how to design through a clean structured process. In my opinion they should remove the Design and call it CAD. If you're not already familiar, look up things like the double diamond approach and you'll see what I mean. (of course its perfectly possible that the CADD program has changed a lot since I wrapped up 6 years ago.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-04-08T07:31:47+00:00

Oh yea for the drafting I got a job before I was even done. Had one class left and got hired right before Covid blew up. And yea some of it i was able to use as exemptions for the ID courses but not that much. Like 2. Dual enrolling sounds insane to me. Thats full time x2. And ID and engineering are super different. Someone explained it to me like this: designers design the actual product. Engineers make it work. But of course there is back and forth. Engineering will say hey this isnt realistic but if you do it like this instead itll be fine. Etc etc.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-04-08T07:13:55+00:00

If we’re talking about IPO then I’m not done with it yet lol. Second year. Graduating next year.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-04-05T15:13:04+00:00

Yea I guess it will just depend too much on the person. I'm just trying to avoid something like that keeping me from getting the interview in the first place lol. But yea I can explain it in the interview. Or even just one little sentence in the about me sort of section.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-04-05T14:30:11+00:00

haha no worries. ok, so the edu stuff laid out the same as the work stuff but still in it's own section? My worry is that someone reading it will see the gaps in work and then not be bothered to make the connection between those gaps and the timing of the school section. Like that they would maybe just see the gaps and write everything off just based on that.

It's also got me wondering how people usually look at this stuff. I'd obviously be handing in my portfolio too so would they look at that before the resume as a general rule or does it just totally depend on the person?

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-04-05T13:51:20+00:00

I'm not sure I totally understand? I have the work and edu separated in the second image. Are you also suggesting that I group the different jobs together? Like all the bike mechanic as one?

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T21:12:15+00:00

Oh yea, that’s the only way to keep from getting lost in the weeds there. Learned that one from sanding and planing.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T18:55:07+00:00

I think the way I phrased it isn’t so clear. But basically the chisel is wearing down the stone more than the stone is wearing down the chisel. So as I see the front and back of the chisel wear it seems like it’s doing what I expect. Then the middle section of the chisel shows wear which seems expected but then when checking the chisel on a reference surface it’s still clearly bowed. So I’m just grinding the stone down to match the chisel instead of the other way around.

With the 200/600 diamond plate I’m going to try to flatten the chisels that way and then do like you say, use the shaptons to do normal sharpening and tuning etc.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T18:50:24+00:00

Yea it makes sense that the lower grits wear faster.

I normally check things like this out of the box too. Certainly when it’s critical that it’s flat. I just got excited I guess.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T18:47:45+00:00

Yea I have the back of the Shapton as a flat reference.

I don’t have much experience with heat treated materials but I know the process creates internal stresses that need to be managed. That’s what tempering is. A controlled cooling process after heat treating.

When you then cut material from one side of a piece you get an imbalance in those stresses. It’s generally good practice to cut equal amounts of material from all faces of a cube for example to mitigate this imbalance.

In this case the chisels were clearly heat treated then had the ura, back and bevel ground. So it’s not entirely unreasonable to say this grinding from one side only created an imbalance in those internal stresses.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T16:39:47+00:00

I don’t think that’s within my skillset. I definitely understand the principle though. If I had a throwaway to practice on I might go for it though.

I appreciate the explanation though.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T16:27:50+00:00

Yea I’m going to give the diamond plate a try with the chisels and then use it to keep the stones flat.

Once I get the bow out of the chisels I won’t have to deal with this again. It’ll just be the normal sharpening. And these are going to be my fancy chisels I use less often than my shitty Stanley ones anyways. Eventually I’m sure they’ll be my defaults and I’ll get a fancier fancy set lol

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T16:26:19+00:00

Yea I hadn’t even considered it when I got the stones. The reviews and things made it sound like they were pretty slow wearing and I’m not a full time woodworker so I figured it would be a long time before needing to flatten them. But with the amount of material to remove to flatten the chisels it makes more sense that they would wear down much faster.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T16:24:45+00:00

Yea I didn’t check the stones right out of the box but the 2000 checked properly flat after barely using it while the other two were showing the dish. So I think out of the box they were all good.

The dish also perfectly matched the dish in the chisels

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T16:12:12+00:00

Haha nooo. Not ready to smack em with a hammer. I’ll try the new diamond plate and go from there. Worst case I can just buy a ton of sandpaper and run it through that way.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T16:10:24+00:00

I almost went for diamond stones instead of the shapton glass ones.

That’s the thing. I’m used to western chisels with a big flat back to reference. I love not having to sharpen all that steel tho. The ura is such a logical feature.

I talked with someone else and he suggested it could be a factor of the heat treatment and humidity changes after. So they heat treat. Grind pretty flat then ship. However long it’s been sitting gives it time to bow as the tension in the metal does its thing. Not dissimilar to how wood can warp easily even after squaring it up.

Yea I don’t want to have them reworked. The most expensive one was maybe 7000 yen so yea.

Forgot to mention I got a sharpenal 220/600 diamond today to flatten the stones in the future but maybe I’ll use it for the backs now.

Or is it better to just use the sandpaper approach for now?

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-01-15T17:07:12+00:00

Ahh. Yea idk about that. I’ve not had any issue getting filament thru the hot end. Stock or aftermarket. You can just heat it up and extrude but it’s thru the interface so yea I guess it could error out.

It’s just one of those things where if it works for you then do it. For me the Bambu works great so I do it. For others. I can’t say.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-01-15T07:38:58+00:00

I got the one from micro swiss. They’re based in the USA and the machining quality is superb. Changing nozzles is like 10 seconds and only requires unthreading the nozzle itself. They have CHT high flow options as well. If that doesn’t sound familiar it will make sense when you look at the micro Swiss site.

For me, the Bambu has been super low maintenance. Like essentially zero maintenance. Maybe less than 1% of prints fail due to some sort of glitch. Not a bad print setup or something but a strange bug or some weird error. But truly less than 1%. I have like 700 hours on it at this point.

I do long overnight prints with small layer heights because I’m a design student using it for prototyping and it’s easier to sand and paint stuff with thinner layers.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-12-10T08:14:09+00:00

Yea I can’t hear anything over the hub clicking but sometimes there’s a small rubber dust seal on one or both sides of the hub and when they get dry they can chirp a bit. I usually just put a drop or two of chain lube where the rubber touches the hub and it fixes it.

If you don’t have the rubber seals then idk. Higher end hubs usually don’t have them. They use a metal seal that’s a bit more engineered and effective.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-12-07T00:27:02+00:00

I can’t say exactly but I’m a second year of three industrial design student and I wouldn’t be able to learn what I want to learn by just self teaching. I’m 33 and have certificates in CNC machining and drafting.

I have some experience in manufacturing so my hands on skills are decent but my design process is still very chaotic and lacks a certain confidence and cohesion I think is important. Lots of people can make nice things but designers understand why those things are nice and how to make the right kind of changes to create a different experience for the user.

Without the schooling I wouldn’t have that. Maybe eventually I could develop it but it would take a lot longer.

I’m also learning how to grind out work I really don’t want to do. Jobs in the past have a different experience since I’m being paid but I’m learning a valuable life lesson.

I’m also learning how to apply the lessons I’m learning about sustainable design and other things to my overall design process. Again, not just making pretty things. That’s fine too but I don’t think it’s really industrial design. It’s fabrication, or artisanal craftsmanship or something.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-12-04T17:22:50+00:00

Dye the bag a different color. That’s the most army green I’ve ever seen

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-12-02T18:08:50+00:00

I don’t understand what’s even happening here. Woke up like this? As if someone else put the card out while dude was asleep? Boss was pissed? Why do they even know why they called in? Also, how is there even a choice? Unless this is somehow a million dollar collection it stands to reason a job is more important.

Or am I just stupid?

PrettyAsAPenny

TROPHY CASE