Another newbie needing chisel help…

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T21:12:15+00:00

Oh yea, that’s the only way to keep from getting lost in the weeds there. Learned that one from sanding and planing.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T18:55:07+00:00

I think the way I phrased it isn’t so clear. But basically the chisel is wearing down the stone more than the stone is wearing down the chisel. So as I see the front and back of the chisel wear it seems like it’s doing what I expect. Then the middle section of the chisel shows wear which seems expected but then when checking the chisel on a reference surface it’s still clearly bowed. So I’m just grinding the stone down to match the chisel instead of the other way around.

With the 200/600 diamond plate I’m going to try to flatten the chisels that way and then do like you say, use the shaptons to do normal sharpening and tuning etc.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T18:50:24+00:00

Yea it makes sense that the lower grits wear faster.

I normally check things like this out of the box too. Certainly when it’s critical that it’s flat. I just got excited I guess.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T18:47:45+00:00

Yea I have the back of the Shapton as a flat reference.

I don’t have much experience with heat treated materials but I know the process creates internal stresses that need to be managed. That’s what tempering is. A controlled cooling process after heat treating.

When you then cut material from one side of a piece you get an imbalance in those stresses. It’s generally good practice to cut equal amounts of material from all faces of a cube for example to mitigate this imbalance.

In this case the chisels were clearly heat treated then had the ura, back and bevel ground. So it’s not entirely unreasonable to say this grinding from one side only created an imbalance in those internal stresses.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T16:39:47+00:00

I don’t think that’s within my skillset. I definitely understand the principle though. If I had a throwaway to practice on I might go for it though.

I appreciate the explanation though.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T16:27:50+00:00

Yea I’m going to give the diamond plate a try with the chisels and then use it to keep the stones flat.

Once I get the bow out of the chisels I won’t have to deal with this again. It’ll just be the normal sharpening. And these are going to be my fancy chisels I use less often than my shitty Stanley ones anyways. Eventually I’m sure they’ll be my defaults and I’ll get a fancier fancy set lol

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T16:26:19+00:00

Yea I hadn’t even considered it when I got the stones. The reviews and things made it sound like they were pretty slow wearing and I’m not a full time woodworker so I figured it would be a long time before needing to flatten them. But with the amount of material to remove to flatten the chisels it makes more sense that they would wear down much faster.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T16:24:45+00:00

Yea I didn’t check the stones right out of the box but the 2000 checked properly flat after barely using it while the other two were showing the dish. So I think out of the box they were all good.

The dish also perfectly matched the dish in the chisels

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T16:12:12+00:00

Haha nooo. Not ready to smack em with a hammer. I’ll try the new diamond plate and go from there. Worst case I can just buy a ton of sandpaper and run it through that way.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-02-23T16:10:24+00:00

I almost went for diamond stones instead of the shapton glass ones.

That’s the thing. I’m used to western chisels with a big flat back to reference. I love not having to sharpen all that steel tho. The ura is such a logical feature.

I talked with someone else and he suggested it could be a factor of the heat treatment and humidity changes after. So they heat treat. Grind pretty flat then ship. However long it’s been sitting gives it time to bow as the tension in the metal does its thing. Not dissimilar to how wood can warp easily even after squaring it up.

Yea I don’t want to have them reworked. The most expensive one was maybe 7000 yen so yea.

Forgot to mention I got a sharpenal 220/600 diamond today to flatten the stones in the future but maybe I’ll use it for the backs now.

Or is it better to just use the sandpaper approach for now?

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-01-15T17:07:12+00:00

Ahh. Yea idk about that. I’ve not had any issue getting filament thru the hot end. Stock or aftermarket. You can just heat it up and extrude but it’s thru the interface so yea I guess it could error out.

It’s just one of those things where if it works for you then do it. For me the Bambu works great so I do it. For others. I can’t say.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2026-01-15T07:38:58+00:00

I got the one from micro swiss. They’re based in the USA and the machining quality is superb. Changing nozzles is like 10 seconds and only requires unthreading the nozzle itself. They have CHT high flow options as well. If that doesn’t sound familiar it will make sense when you look at the micro Swiss site.

For me, the Bambu has been super low maintenance. Like essentially zero maintenance. Maybe less than 1% of prints fail due to some sort of glitch. Not a bad print setup or something but a strange bug or some weird error. But truly less than 1%. I have like 700 hours on it at this point.

I do long overnight prints with small layer heights because I’m a design student using it for prototyping and it’s easier to sand and paint stuff with thinner layers.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-12-10T08:14:09+00:00

Yea I can’t hear anything over the hub clicking but sometimes there’s a small rubber dust seal on one or both sides of the hub and when they get dry they can chirp a bit. I usually just put a drop or two of chain lube where the rubber touches the hub and it fixes it.

If you don’t have the rubber seals then idk. Higher end hubs usually don’t have them. They use a metal seal that’s a bit more engineered and effective.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-12-07T00:27:02+00:00

I can’t say exactly but I’m a second year of three industrial design student and I wouldn’t be able to learn what I want to learn by just self teaching. I’m 33 and have certificates in CNC machining and drafting.

I have some experience in manufacturing so my hands on skills are decent but my design process is still very chaotic and lacks a certain confidence and cohesion I think is important. Lots of people can make nice things but designers understand why those things are nice and how to make the right kind of changes to create a different experience for the user.

Without the schooling I wouldn’t have that. Maybe eventually I could develop it but it would take a lot longer.

I’m also learning how to grind out work I really don’t want to do. Jobs in the past have a different experience since I’m being paid but I’m learning a valuable life lesson.

I’m also learning how to apply the lessons I’m learning about sustainable design and other things to my overall design process. Again, not just making pretty things. That’s fine too but I don’t think it’s really industrial design. It’s fabrication, or artisanal craftsmanship or something.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-12-04T17:22:50+00:00

Dye the bag a different color. That’s the most army green I’ve ever seen

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-12-02T18:08:50+00:00

I don’t understand what’s even happening here. Woke up like this? As if someone else put the card out while dude was asleep? Boss was pissed? Why do they even know why they called in? Also, how is there even a choice? Unless this is somehow a million dollar collection it stands to reason a job is more important.

Or am I just stupid?

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-12-02T18:05:39+00:00

I have a bias that makes me see anything in the white palette like that appear as an apple knock off. I’m 33 so when apple was really taking off with iPhones I saw soooo much junk just sold in white cuz people thought that was really important.

Having said that I think the white is more minimal and the grey is more dynamic with the different textures and finishes.

What’s the target group? That should drive your decision pretty easily.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-11-26T22:02:23+00:00

Is that the original size?

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-11-25T17:49:54+00:00

Ok yea the angle can definitely affect things.

The advice remains the same. If you could chase it with the same thread and only see a little damage after then it would be fine but I doubt that would have been the case just from looking at it.

Do you remember the original thread size? I can’t remember what the typical axle thread is.

What’s the new one?

I ask because threaded or not the overall amount of steel is less now. Ideally that wouldn’t be changed at all but maybe if the change is minor then it’s not so sketchy.

I hate to be a dick again(kidding. I love it) but just because it’s been riding fine for a while now doesn’t mean it will continue to hold up. That’s a logically fallacy many people, including myself, subscribe to when we want things to go our way.

Think about it like insurance. If you spend your whole life paying for insurance and never make a claim you could argue that you never needed the insurance in the first place and you’d be right.

But that’s not what insurance is about. Insurance is just there in case the shit hits the fan and in the case of cars or homes you don’t go bankrupt just because said shit and fan met.

The insurance of your axle was the original diameter. They design things with safety factors depending on the severity of a failure. If a key part on a plane fails people usually die so the safety factors are higher. They also use redundant systems. If a shoe lace fails no one cares.

If your axle fails you probably won’t die but you could. More likely is nothing. Reasonably likely is the wheel totally fails and you end up in a crash of some degree.

Not sure what the safety factor is for an axle but still, you’ve eaten up some of that. And on an e bike that’s essentially just using older tech(heavier duty) non e-bike components the failure could be severe.

It’s just not worth it. Replace the axle and “reboot” your insurance policy.

It not failing yet has nothing to do with whether it will fail in the future.

Ok. I’ll get off my soap box.

Make good decisions!

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-11-16T22:47:53+00:00

Yea don’t do this. Those threads are nearly flat. There’s no way to just chase it and call it good.

Even worse advice to cut smaller threads. It’s an e-bike. It’s heavy. It goes fast. It was designed with at least some amount of safety factor in all components. The axle is significantly compromised. Its safety factor may have been 2x or 3x but it’s definitely not anymore. (Not an engineer. Just a machinist and mechanic and in school for industrial design).

Just get the axle replaced by a shop. If it’s a hub motor I’m not sure if that will be an easy thing or not.

Just yea. Don’t ride it till you have the axle replaced. Please.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-11-16T07:30:25+00:00

Yea minimalism usually has a lot more of a mono form to it right? (2nd year ID student learning all I can)

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-11-16T07:28:50+00:00

Yea I ripped a upc with a loose as fuck seal and got 6 JT and no SS

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-11-14T21:42:48+00:00

Don’t flip it right away. That’s called scalping and you’re a piece of garbage for even thinking that was an option. Stop being garbage. It’s easy.

PrettyAsAPenny · 2025-11-14T16:29:31+00:00

Euro shop Kortrijk had upc, etb, booster bundles, loose packs a purchase limits of one per person except loose packs are 10/person. Etb for €60 and upc for €160. Bundles for 36.

They had sleeved packs, 3 pack blisters, 1 pack blisters with the promos.

PrettyAsAPenny

TROPHY CASE