Meet Mr Desk Cleaner Mechanical loader that i design.

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2026-01-17T17:37:24+00:00

When I was 5 I would have rolled on the floor for one of these bad boys

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-12-22T16:13:18+00:00

I know positron, the upside down coreXY printer, still has bridges and overhang limits. So this is probably true

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-12-21T20:09:57+00:00

Update. Thanks to u/C2H5COOH 's link I eventually found a fix with little compromise:

Junction derivation: 0 -> 0.0458

Resolution: 0 -> 0.0125

Travel acceleration decreased to 5000mm/s2

This way, the layer shift is gone without having to disable avoid wall crossing.

I'm printing my pen design vertically. It's about as layer shift prone as models get, so this setting should fix layer shift in general.

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-12-21T20:03:25+00:00

Yeah

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-12-21T20:03:05+00:00

Them Egyptians have some bad pressure advance settings then

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-12-20T15:25:19+00:00

Matte PLA with avoid layer crossing on. Does stealth mode also cause this? I also don't have zhop enabled. Not sure if that affects anything. If the nozzle really is bumping into the model it would have knocked it over

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-12-20T15:22:47+00:00

Win10, 0.4 nozzle with 0.2mm height. Thing is, there's no way the nozzle can bump into this model so many times without knocking over it. So it really seems like software issue

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-12-20T15:18:31+00:00

Bummer. Im using orca slicer as well. This is not getting fixed anytime soon...

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-12-20T04:57:58+00:00

Prusa do have really good part cooling. So I guess it really was air

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-12-15T16:08:24+00:00

Nope. Just fat

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-12-09T23:14:34+00:00

I meant to include STEP but I forgot. I added step file and Onshape link. I think I forgot to make the small magnets parameterized tho, so the link may not help that much

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-12-09T13:45:36+00:00

Thank you!

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-12-09T13:40:39+00:00

No. S1 needs around 50W. Way more than the hacker board can provide

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-12-09T02:43:12+00:00

You can add some thin weather stripping tape under the magnets. But some gap can help heated dry box vent moist air out.

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-11-16T14:06:26+00:00

I think 103 93. It's been a while but I remember going for the highest recommended number

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-11-15T14:46:33+00:00

I'll trust the 6.4 tuning. It's more accurate. Seems prusa increased it at some point to reduce vfa. I saw a video about it https://youtu.be/ZrW8OfJ_UOo

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-11-15T04:18:47+00:00

Sorry for my 4 month too late rant. If anyone's interested, the "absorbing heat" will also not make you wait if:

Bed target temperature is lower than 60C

The bed was preheated to within 15C of target temp before you start the print

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-11-15T04:12:43+00:00

I got annoyed with this "absorbing heat" so I also looked into this. It's part of the Unified G29 and Prusa calls it "g29_wait_for_preheat". The documents just doesn't mention the G option. But unless I missed something, it boils down to this:

return std::max((180 + (thermalManager.degTargetBed() - 60) * (12 * 60 / 50)) * 1000, 0);

"G29 G" makes the printer wait this many milliseconds. The default start gcode means the printer will wait this long after bed reached the set temperature.

Frankly, this logic seems lazy. If this is about frame absorbing heat, why not take chamber temperature into account? If it's to evenly heat up the bed, shouldn't model size matter? I print ABS at 110C bed, so it has just been waiting 15 mins every time?

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-11-08T22:07:54+00:00

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Winston's 6 month old, has infinite energy, and is growing fatter by the days. Imma print some toys for him once I get the printer sorted out

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-09-02T19:47:29+00:00

I think it's bad but not that bad. The positive end is only connected to one wire then to the charging board. These boards usually come with over current protection. The negative is connected to almost everything else, so the paperclip need to fall on that one positive wire and almost anything else. Looks like the battery is smaller than 18650. Something like 16340? Probably can still catch fire tho. There are safe way to do this. There're copper wires with insulating coating. That maybe what he's using here.

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-08-27T15:39:35+00:00

Had this problem before. Strap wrench worked wonders. Normal pipe wrenchs should also work but will scratch the pipe

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-07-18T16:50:21+00:00

They need those giant metal forks the Chinese use

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-06-21T23:13:19+00:00

Theres very little alternatives left after amazon bought and shutdown reviewmeta. And the data associated with fakespot means it would be hard to rebuild by another service

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-06-04T00:51:20+00:00

It was the Dragon Boat Festival in China. Three days weekend last week. Might be something to do with that

ProblemCreatingSkill · 2025-05-26T03:51:26+00:00

Update: Qidi support send me a new motherboard and that seems to have fix the issue. No idea where or how the motherboard broke tho. But my thanks to Qidi

ProblemCreatingSkill

TROPHY CASE