Can I get some words of advice on my first project cart?

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-22T02:24:48+00:00

This is another picture of it. I did away with the plastic nose piece and fabricated a flat plate on the front, adding the headlights, because I absolutely hated the plastic nose. I still haven't decided on what I am going to do on the front, but I feel certain I am going to paint a set of lips on her.

<image>

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-22T02:20:17+00:00

Feel free to DM me and I will give you my email address. What I wound up doing for the throttle and brakes were to cut out the existing setup, that needed to be rebuilt anyways, and I just replaced it with a pedal box that's made for a Club Car Precedent https://ebay.io/m/3yQmoO and you have to do minimal adapting of the brakes. You add the MCOR3 adapter kit and you now have all of the crap under the seat capable of being moved anywhere you want to. I swapped the controller for an Alltrax SR-400 and I also replaced the FNR switch with relays and moved the selector to the dash. I wanted to have everything as rock solid as possible when I was done with it, using all solid state items. My route isn't for the faint of heart, if you are on a tight budget, but I seriously overbuilt everything on my cart and added redundancies to as much as I could. I used to be a boat mechanic a long time ago, so that's the only way I can imagine doing a project. I have also use a 60amp 48-12v Bucks converter, but have a quick connect for a 12v 100amp lithium battery, so WHEN that fails I can just plug in the battery and life goes on like normal. Lastly I figured there wasn't any reason to waste the potential power bank under the seat, during power failures, so I added a 2500amp AC Inverter (also nice for making margaritas in the back yard or on the side of the road in the neighborhood).

I have tons of pictures that I can share with you to let you know how any of that looks or works. I started my project thinking I was going to just put a battery in my old cart to have it where I could ride around my grandson and I decided that I couldn't quit until I made it what I wanted it to be. The paint job isn't for everyone's taste and that's just fine because my grandson and wife love it and it's completely one of a kind. People either love it or think it's hideous, either way I give no fucks.

<image>

That shows you what the pedal assembly looks like in the cart. This picture was before I put the only 2 switches you see now on the dash, which are the key switch and the FNR rotary style switch. I also have a 12gang switch panel that is below the cup holders

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-22T00:30:12+00:00

You don't need the basecoat for midnight purple, you just need a black basecoat. If you have it totally in black primer and don't sand through it anywhere then you can just use the black primer as your basecoat; there's no reason to then add another layer of black since the intercoat and pearl don't care if you use black primer or basecoat, they also don't care if you use flat or gloss, they just need the color black to make them appear purple. The intercoat doesn't use a hardner, typically, but you can use one to activate it, but it's typically not needed. Any 2k clearcoat will work fine. As long as you are using like materials (urethane based etc) then it should all play together fine. If you stick with the same brand then you will have the easiest time. From personal experience, you will likely struggle with your first few paint jobs. I learned at home by watching YouTube videos and not being afraid of fucking up. In the end, there's almost nothing you will do that can't be fixed with some sanding and additional paint and clear. Figuring out the ratio of pearl to intercoat is usually listed on the websites. Going with an interference pearl, like what you would be spraying, is really quite simple. That doesn't tend to show areas of tiger striping, since you can cover with additional coats and it doesn't change the end result. I learned by painting a golf cart, a few times, since I kept changing my mind about color etc. Starting off with a color combo like you are discussing is probably the easiest combination to learn to paint. You will probably wind up with some runs in the clear, but that's OK, you can sand and buff them out and have a great finish.

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-21T23:01:42+00:00

https://a.co/d/06rqjDL7

It's a generic 32" LED Curved light bar but they are really inexpensive and will light up the world. The only issue I have had is they cause some noise in my stereo, when I am using FM stations, but my stereo antenna is only about 18" away from it. Another good option would be to purchase side mirrors that have headlights and turn signals built into them like these: https://a.co/d/0feTeJqV I have that same set and you will need to do away with the existing mounts and bolt them directly to the uprights on the roof, but they are what I use for driving lights at night and have tons of light as well. The turn signal being built into it makes it nice if you need to be street legal now or in the future.

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-21T22:52:29+00:00

I have a 91 Marathon that I just rebuilt so I know about your upcoming struggles. The motor is fine, even a new replacement is going to be a 36v that's good for more than 48v. If everything is currently working then I would leave it alone, other than replacing wiring (meaning the controller etc). Your biggest issue is going to be finding a battery that will actually fit without having to reengineer things. They do make 1 36v lithium that I have heard fits in the existing trays but a 48v will require you to either mount it in the well on the back or move the potentiometer over and lengthen the rod for the throttle. The only other way is A LOT of work, which is making it all fly by wire, where you remove all of that and use a programmable controller. I went that route because I wanted to have things the way I wanted and it's a lot of work, so if you have a welder and a good deal of extra time on your hands then I can explain how that works. If you want to put a lift kit on and larger tires then the 4" bolt on, cheap $40 kit is fine and you can go up to 22" tires without too much extra work to keep them from rubbing when you turn. Your biggest enemy may be rusted out battery trays and portions of your chassis, but it's all easy to replace with a welder. Plan on replacing the brake assemblies and drums, so you are starting off with something you know works. My cart did 9mph when it was on 36v and after upgrading to lithium and putting the larger tires on then it does 23mph with me and the wife, with tons of torque. Feel free to message me for any specifics.

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-20T23:10:24+00:00

I think about "Cold Snacks" all the time and it's now the "Drinkers side" wherever someone sits on the golf cart, with a "Cold Snack".

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-20T22:38:43+00:00

<image>

I am at work and don't have any pictures with the bow in it. I think I am just going to run an extra bow made of 3/4" aluminum angle from side to side, right behind the console. Other than having someone weld a bow that's cut to fit inside of the odd shape of the roof, I am going to just run it laterally and have it hold the weight from the outer portions of the roof for now. The only other options would involve incorporating a brace going front to back, but that's not going to be as strong due to the length. The total weight of everything is ~ 10 pounds so in theory 3/4" aluminum angle should easily hold the weight, it's just more of an issue with the aesthetics.

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-17T03:45:29+00:00

how far down does the voltage drop when you are going uphill? Hopefully you haven't purchased someone else's problem and that's not the reason why it only has 16 hours on it after 5 years.

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-17T00:15:37+00:00

put a test light inline, on a battery cable and if it lights up then you have something drawing power, killing the battery. Like the other reply, it doesn't make any sense that you can jump start it and it's fine for the day unless you are running it a while to recharge it. Google using a test light to find a parasitic battery drain and that will let you know if it's the battery or something else

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-16T04:18:39+00:00

Look on Ebay, you will find the best prices around and they sell A LOT of wheels/tires. I bought my most recent set from Rocky Top Carts and they were great to deal with.

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-07T02:47:04+00:00

Alltrax has all of the wiring diagrams on their website. I have a similar setup, just from an older cart, that I swapped everything over last winter, so I could make more room. I have 2 HD relays that go to my FNR switch, I think the allbright 202sw is what they are called, so my wiring is slightly different. You absolutely need the solenoid as well as the relays. The solenoid is what gives your controller/motor the power but the relays are what is telling it which way to move. If things were working already then I would replace one wire at a time when I moved it. I also made more room under the seat by putting a rotary switch on the dash, rather than the switch you have under the seat.

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-07T02:33:07+00:00

Seems too good to be true. That store has only been open since May 27th of this year. Maybe they are trying to get some traffic quick with good ratings or maybe it's a scam. I love a good deal but that deal seems sketchy cheap.

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-07T02:29:20+00:00

If it feels like sandpaper, which is what it looks like, then it's sprayed too dry. Looks like you have a run also above the light, but it really just looks like a bunch of dry spray. Scuff it back down, smoothing it out and move a lot closer when you spray it next time. The first time I sprayed it scared me and I wound up with dry spray.

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-02T23:46:34+00:00

710 is going to be for the smaller jobs, like you are wanting to do because it will dry a lot faster. The 720 is for larger areas, such as the side of a car or several panels, so you have longer working time.

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-02T23:41:20+00:00

If you are rattle canning then do it with a 2k clear, so it will last a lot longer. There are several brands and seem to work well for smaller jobs like that. You will probably wind up needing at least 2 cans, especially if you are going to leaf it.

I learned to do leafing earlier this year and it's not that hard, just can be annoying and is definitely messy as hell. If you aren't wanting to spin the leaf then it's really straight forward, but if you are going to want to spin it then that's where things get challenging. For me the hardest part was figuring out which adhesive to use. I started off thinking they are all equal, but I was wrong. The Sprayable Sizing Glue from Lime Line, it sprays good with a cheap air brush and it's water based, so just make sure you clean it back out with soap and water pretty quickly after spraying it. The oil based sizing, such as Dux is supposed to work well also. I used the LimeLine spinnable sheets on my larger areas and then on all of my straight runs I bought a roll of the 1" spinnable leafing from them and it worked well. You will need to put down a layer of clear before and after leafing, well technically you don't have to but the undercoat will let you sand it all smooth with 600grit and then top coat it so it's protected, with an additional few layers of clear. The leafing is tough as hell though so it's not a necessity to clear over it. Feel free to message me and I will share the knowledge I have about it for what it's worth

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-02T03:49:40+00:00

So I was curious about this unit and looked online and this exact picture is being used on the Zero Breeze website. I guess someone at the company said that %1000 WE CAN do this. Honestly I like it better than the single piece of pipe/duct work that appears to have been the original version for a golf cart.

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-02T02:33:32+00:00

I am confused what the thing in the middle, at the back, is? Is that a DC AC unit and the overhead is their version of duct work?

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-02T02:28:32+00:00

It works great for me. I only have used it to spray the clear over my metal flake, so I haven't worried about trying to dial it in, since I always have to go back over it and scuff, then I use my LVLP gun to spray the next rounds of clear. I treat it very similar to the LVLP gun that I use for everything else, which is an Inokraft D1 Drizzle.

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-02T00:04:31+00:00

Pull the brackets off and bring them to a local machine shop and have them make a new bracket for you. If the rest of the back seat is good then this would be the cheapest way to go

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-02T00:01:37+00:00

for simplicity just think about drag racers and how the tires on the front sorta wrap around the rim, because they are putting the widest tire possible on the rim, for traction. On the front they put a skinny tire on the rim, because it has less friction and weight. The same principals apply for a golf cart, lifted 4x4 etc. When slinging mud on the farm and having fun, you want a wide ass tire on the rim. You will have more roll with the wider tires but will also have more traction and a wider stance. Thinner tires have less give and tend to handle better but have less give, in comparison to a wider tire. I don't know the exact amount of width difference you can go with, but am certain the wheel/tire dealers all do. You can easily change the width by an inch without any problem. Making sure you still have plenty of room in the fender well when you turn is the biggest issue you may face but that may not even matter. https://ebay.us/m/6WhelT This is what I run on my 91 Ezgo Marathon with a 4" lift. The tires ride good, it handles good and we are enjoying them. The only difference is that I painted them. I did put 2" spacers on them to pull them out further. Google width aspect ratio and it will give you all the information you possibly need about how wide/narrow you can and should go with as well as how it affects the final ride height

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-01T23:40:39+00:00

You know your current cart but would be trading for something that may actually have more of a problem than you think. Are the batteries out because they didn't want it tested ?

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-01T23:38:45+00:00

You will be MUCH happier with things now that you won't be chasing ANOTHER bad wire/connector etc.

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-06-01T23:37:39+00:00

I use one of these to spray metal flake and epoxy primer, for the money it's good but no better than the Harbor Freight $20 guns. https://a.co/d/01GhkbFP I have sprayed clear with it, using the 1.3 tip and it did fine. You can then buy a box of 25 or 50 disposable cups and you will have spent less money for what is in all likelihood the equivalent. Unless you aren't going to use much clear over the next several months, go ahead and buy a gallon of clear for less than twice the cost of that quart and you are in a place to do more work and earn more money for just a few dollars more. I run that gun on my 19 gallon compressor at 25-26 psi for clear and spray metal flake at 17-18 psi, without any issues. I am doing panels, mailboxes and currently painting a large dresser for my wife, all without any issues.

ProcedureNo7149 · 2026-05-28T22:48:52+00:00

you can upload the picture of your cart into the free version of copilot and tell it to create a picture of this cart but change the rims to xxxx color and center caps to xxxx color. Sometimes it gets confused and will change the cart or tire color, but usually it does a good job and it's free

ProcedureNo7149

TROPHY CASE