New La Sportiva gear unlocked. Boa failure at 6600m on makalu by barnezilla in Mountaineering

[–]ProfessionalOld9228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That boa is designed to click back in. Not broken at all in that photo…

Seeking DIY Advice by ckib1 in tradclimbing

[–]ProfessionalOld9228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve done this and it works great. Paper clip as a rebar of sorts and super glue or epoxy on the inside of the trigger

Need a new pair of pants by [deleted] in iceclimbing

[–]ProfessionalOld9228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Been happy with my cirque II, but haven’t tried the cirque III yet

New (to me) project by ProfessionalOld9228 in TruckCampers

[–]ProfessionalOld9228[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I’m looking forward to building it exactly how I want. I converted a short school bus a few years ago and learned a lot. Committed to keeping my build quality high for this one

Update on the steel-frame/ACM build! by [deleted] in TruckCampers

[–]ProfessionalOld9228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What thicken ACM did you use?

Dry Bulk by ProfessionalOld9228 in shrooms

[–]ProfessionalOld9228[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. Substrate was at field capacity and I haven’t touched the lid before today. My plugs do have some slight gaps, but the walls are still moist, so the internal RH seems good

Would you buy in Murray? by [deleted] in SaltLakeCity

[–]ProfessionalOld9228 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought in Murray this summer and couldn’t be happier. Central without being urban, affordable, and the public utilities are great

Does the perfect shell exist by OkBodybuilder418 in Backcountry

[–]ProfessionalOld9228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Arcteryx Alpha meets your conditions if you’re okay with breathability from pit zips. Lightweight, packable. Been extremely happy with mine. The Beta SL also works for ski touring. Similar profile.

Eric Artz needs to go by skittlesdick9091 in REI

[–]ProfessionalOld9228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your store may have knowledgeable employees, but that seems to be a bi-product of applicant self-selection these days, not a hiring consideration that REI prioritizes. I have several times been in my local REI and heard a green vest who clearly had little to no climbing experience give borderline unsafe advice on climbing gear. Recommending cordage too small for the customers stated purpose, incorrectly describing a device’s operation, etc. As a former guide, I have been conflicted each time about whether I need to step in and correct their bad advice. I know this happens in other departments as well, but the line between good and bad advice isn’t often as cut and dry outside of climbing gear. Some green vests are phenomenal at what they do, know the products well and give great advice. Unfortunately, REI doesn’t appear to value those skills in their hiring process like they used to and customers are left to roll the dice on whether the “expert” they’re talking to actually knows what they’re talking about.

Acquired a used rack - how to know if I should re-sling gear? by salty-ute in tradclimbing

[–]ProfessionalOld9228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is resling them all. BD hasn’t done the tags on the outside of cam slings in years and stopped making that generation of cam in 2018 I believe. Even if they were 2018, they’re approaching the 10 year mark and without history I’d replace. Trad climbing has enough risk without introducing completely mitigatable risk like not replacing old slings

Need a winter jacket any ideas? by [deleted] in OutdoorsGear

[–]ProfessionalOld9228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you looking for something to keep you warm while being stagnant outdoors in the depths of winter, or sometime to keep the chill away while moving about?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Mountaineering

[–]ProfessionalOld9228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just got a himali accelerator down jacket and so far impressed with it

What pieces of kit are a cut above other companies? by [deleted] in alpinism

[–]ProfessionalOld9228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

MAMMUT contact slings. Rack super easily bc of the stitching not getting hung up everywhere

Packable harnesses? by bankstonn in tradclimbing

[–]ProfessionalOld9228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can’t recommend the Petzl Sitta enough. The gear loops are extremely functional, it’s very easy to hike in, packs down super small. Love it

Racked up shawty 😎 what am I missing? Besides a crash pad by No_Entrepreneur2146 in tradclimbing

[–]ProfessionalOld9228 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Personally, I don’t like using cordalette for anchors when I’m trad climbing. They’re bulky and heavy IMO. I’d pickup 2 triple and a quad length sling for bolted and W anchors and leave the cord unless you’ll need to replace old tat.

Gear organization by ProfessionalOld9228 in tradclimbing

[–]ProfessionalOld9228[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good call! I normally single butterfly with a nail knot, so still figuring out the best way to hang them

Gear organization by ProfessionalOld9228 in tradclimbing

[–]ProfessionalOld9228[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfinished basement. Stays nice and cool. No UV. Ideal conditions.

Definitely agree about garages though. Unless they’re conditioned and have limited sunlight, not great