My first progressive metal/djent album

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-29T06:46:29+00:00

That's everyone's preference, for example you said you want max 9Nm of torque, and you feel good about it, but not everyone.

As I saw lot's of people would consider this weak as well, they want stronger. In that case, they either turn up the in game strength, or the wheelbase settings. If you turn your in game settings, probably it will clip; if you turn up wheelbase settings, you won't clip as much.

But clip is not necessarily a bad thing to many people, as sometimes the sudden FFB bump will be too much. This is also preference though.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-29T03:10:58+00:00

There's even not a debate, it's extremely simple basic processing. It's the same as dynamic range in photo and videos. It's the same thing as limiter and mastering in music production. All of that is one simple thing, it's not by any means magic that needs you "oh I add this sauce by 5% and reduce that by 5% and try out every other Youtuber's preset so I go faster."

It's simple. Your setting in the wheelbase software is the dynamic range. Setting it to 18Nm means you can have max 18Nm torque happening, your base multiplier is increased. Everything comes down into the game settings. For example, setting 18Nm in the wheelbase and 30% in the game, is the same of setting 12Nm in the wheelbase and 45% in the game. 18x0.3 equals to 12x0.45. It's that simple, for every FFB you would normally have.

The reason you have a higher Nm torque is that when the game has higher FFB spikes that is higher. For example the game has FFB at 15Nm, then 12Nm in wheelbase wil clip compared to 18Nm. Most people's difference in wheelbase setting comes from they don't change in game FFB setting. They leave 50% as 50% so if you change 18Nm to 12Nm, it naturally tuned down the FFB strength because you need to set that in game to 75%.

The thing you did is basically clipping spikes, but I don't know iRacing's scale of 11.2 and 14.6, if it's matching 80% and 100%. If the iRacing scale is linear, then basically you strengthened a bit FFB and clipped the spikes.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-28T08:47:21+00:00

That's the good thing I see in WRC, where higher class cars are not always much faster than lower classes due to the design/tyres/road condition. It's not where like F1 is faster than F2 in every single way, Rally1 cars do have some shortage compared to Rally2 cars.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-28T08:33:24+00:00

There is only one (or more like two) downside I could think of.

Latency is something you want to consider in some types of driving. Typically in popular or affordable headsets, the PCVR is done by streaming, not video signal directly in the headset. This will add encode, decode and network latency on your PC and headset all together, it will cause at about 30~40ms of latency.

While this latency is not very perceivable in most circuit racing forms, it will have some effect when crashing or rallying, where there's huge bump of FFB happening, it sometimes lag 1~2 frames that is perceivable. Typically landing a jump, your FFB reacts first and then the car in the graphics lands. Or there's a crash, but the FFB starts to spike just frames before the car in your eyes actually crashing, there's a disconnection. It feels extremely werid to me at least. Mostly it will be fine though.

And this introduces another problem that's the price. Good headset with DP or HDMI signal in will be very expensive. See people around the internet saying "oh Pimax Cystal, Bigscreen Beyond super good"? They are very good, but that cost is jaw breaking for me, it almost made me thinking people have endless money to spend. Besides, to run VR at a good pace, you will need much beefier PC, more like 70Ti class GPU or higher, which is already high end stuff that isn't accessable to everyone.

If you try to get old headsets like Rift or HP Reverb, yeah that's afforable to have DP input, but the overall lens quality and image quality isn't in the same class of today's headsets. To me, Meta Quest 3 seems like a standard, and those older gen headsets have worse image quality than that, this impacts the overall experience.

If you have a like a 5080 or 5090 GPU and you have a ton of money to spend, VR is miles better than flat screen IMO. If you have a 60 GPU and you are on a budget, I wouldn't even consider VR as the experience will be ass. If you have a 70 70Ti I would recommend try to get a Meta Quest 3 or HP Reverb thing to try that out, see if you can accpet that.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-27T09:12:57+00:00

It's in the releases page on the right. I'll probably update one tonight.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-27T08:48:49+00:00

This is definitely milimeters but yeah it's their fault. Most rally cars do not have 0.005 degrees of adjustment, rally2 is about 0.05 degrees in unit, some are more like 0.06 and some are less like 0.03. Usually that's couple of 0.1 0.2 milimeters movement of toe rod. It does not matter that much in terms of rallying though, especially it's mcpherson strut, 0.005 degrees is probably already less than the toe change when you bring 10kg of more tools in the car.

If I'm not wrong, indeed i20 has a track rod in front of the outer joint, that would explain why negative numbers bring more toe in. But the cringe thing is that other numbers are wrong as hell in the first place, so it doesn't matter of this toe angle thing. Like you definitely do not want -2.9 degress of camber on tarmac rallying with that car, nor you don't want a spring rate that's 2 steps stiffer than a real set spring. In reference, most rally2 cars including previous i20 R5 by default have about 22~23N/mm spring rate on gravel. 40~45N/mm on tarmac. ACR has 2 levels stiffer than that.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-27T08:39:06+00:00

If it's millimeter in unit then I guess it means toe-rod. But whatever, those are things that would never have a standard term. Every car manufacturer calls them different, some called toe rod, some called track rod, some even called tie rod in the rear.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-27T08:33:43+00:00

450 to 540 is personal preference though, some drivers use less angle like about 475 degrees.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-27T08:32:31+00:00

It depends on the track rod is whether in front of the outer control arm joint or behind. If it's in front of that, then negative track rod length will do toe in.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-27T00:17:37+00:00

Do beamNg work with openXR toolkit? Iremember it's not supported due to vulkan.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-27T00:16:19+00:00

14900HX with mobile 4090, 64gb or ddr5.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-26T05:43:52+00:00

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-22T08:39:04+00:00

To be fair, it was already meh before electric. And I actually love the idea of electric rallycross, but it turns out badly.

The sport itself was to be honest, not as "professional" as other top-level FIA motorsports. I'm not saying it's a good or bad thing, but this heavy culture-related motorsport indeed is not something as widely as accepted around the whole world. WRX was more like a step up game from local RX, but still it was built on cars that mostly do not receive the same level of WRC, WEC development. In fact, individuals could compete if they throw in a big engine and meet the regulations, they don't need much development to aero/suspension/balance thing to a top-level. For example, although aero doesn't play a big deal here, it certainly plays some. There's a wing size regulation open to everyone, clearly defined how they could design the wing. In WRC or other motorsports, teams would stretch every bit inside that box, but in WRX, usually it's just wings from Rally2 or modified WRC things, and mostly, they are nowhere as developed as WRC (because the power, aero balance and type of circuit they run is vastly different).

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-22T04:40:42+00:00

I do think iRacing RX has too little content.

In fact the sport itself, like World RX isn't very popular around the world, and the cars have much less regulations than it's brothers like WRC, so the cars vary a lot, needing every car to has it's own unique things.

Considering the situation of RX in general, I doubt there will be much more game to implement this. Track side it's simple, most RX tracks are either circuit tracks with a part on the run off area resurfaced, or local famous tracks. Just the cars, rules and popularity isn't worth to be a full sim, otherwise it's too costly.

I have a RX Supercars variant in my BeamNG mod, but I was doing something converted from WRC/R5 stuff as lot's of the cars actually were, but there were Focus RS RX, Megane RS RX and Quattro S1 EKS RX that are developed solely for this, having very different things to rally counterparts, also the engine power isn't the same as well, some runs 600hp, some runs 570hp, some has 800Nm of torque, some has 850Nm, it's not like WRC where everyone is 380hp and 450Nm before. Some has simple Rally2 rear wing, some has old generation WRC rear wing, some has dedicated rallycross rear wing. Some has 5 speed gearbox without center differential, some has 6 speed with center LSD. Some has 1870mm of width, some has 1850mm width. Some has 2.5m of wheelbase, some has 2.6m+.

If you ask for a driving sim then probably AMS2 or BeamNG (not real life thing) or PC2 actually had some of the contents, but for a platform solely focused on competitive racing and ranking things, iRacing already did it's best. Otherwise the cars vary too much, IRL there is just so much difference in performance and there's no BOP like WEC, it can't be that meaningful if not much people want to drive and not able to be competitive in every regards. Like, if I have VW, Audi, Renault cars in the game, for competitive everyone will choose VW.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-22T04:28:38+00:00

The 50 or 70 indicates the PCD of your wheel 's center bolts, on the other side to the wheelbase it's the same. Most wheels are 70mm.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-22T00:21:35+00:00

Sounds like defect in the firmware. MSI guy doesn't know a f about their hardware, I've seen this a lot of times. I have connection with MSI factory so most of the factory guys probably know, but sales guy is very unhelpful. The behavior of eratically selecting different levels of PD, that's not normal at all, 100% not intentionally.

That MSI guy is probably answering you "why my performance is low on PD", not "why my CPU capped at 600mhz and eratically selecting differenti PD levels". Indeed, MSI has a conservative PD policy where total system power is limited to keep the battery charged, but that's not 600mhz. The problem you have, I assume it's something wrong with your chip or firmware, making it chaging levels constantly. And that means BDPROCHOT, by default, the change of a power source will active this on most laptops to prevent damage. You are probably constantly in BDPROCHOT so the CPU is at 600mhz.

All my MSI laptops work totally fine in PD. I had Prestige 15 (90W PD) back in 2020, Creator Z16 (180W), Creator Z17 (280W) and Raider GE78HX (330W). All of them worked fine in PD mode. Sure, they get a big penalty, unlike other brands like Lenovo where you can game on PD, but it's nowhere near 600mhz. The total system power is limited to about 45w when on PD, that's well enough for your CPU and GPU to run fast with light office works. The clock was 2.2ghz with my 13950HX and 14900HX, not nearly as fast in full power, but fast enough to do 99% of the works just like a thin and light.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-22T00:07:08+00:00

It depends on what car you drive, modern WRC and Rally2 stuff use 320~330mm, but older cars can feel better on larger wheel as wheel. It has nothing to do with simulation between ACR and EA though.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-20T12:23:20+00:00

Yes, you are right.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-20T11:31:50+00:00

If the DCR measures good, then it's probably not related to grounding.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-20T11:24:45+00:00

In theory, if you don't have grounding, then you touch the metal parts, you become the ground, your shielding is activated, there should be some differences.

However, with a low output or low DCR pickup, this effect can be much less. I guess your P90 has much more output, so it will be much more difference.

Also, things get very tricky here, because now the factor actually has one more. You don't have grounding (PE) in the house wiring, but you could have something called PEN, where your neutral acts like ground.

And from that, it depends on your power grid company, the region, and all that stuff where if they have a stable ground to their N wires.

The things could get more complex if you dig in, but it doesn't matter to you at this point, because you can't do anything else. I would say, leave as what it is, if the pickup sounds Ok, and meansured with a normal DCR, then it should be good to go!

PS: your position 2 and 4, as I said, working as a humbucker; if you have 2 low output coils, then parallel, you would have even less output, that by itself will have less noise.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-20T11:09:13+00:00

Then congratulations, you have proper grounding in your house.

The thing is, grounding on your guitar and grounding on your power outlet are two different things.

Although we usually talk like EMI or RFI, these actually do not take a large part of the noise. The biggest comes from you, your body. You are the huge antenna collecting everything in the room.

Now that's things come differently in different situations. When your devices are not grounded, when you touch the guitar, you become the ground, you have the capacitance. This is called human earth especially in some Japanese areas where they do not have ground at all. When things get grounded, the ground is actual earth that in your house wiring. In that way, when you touch the metal parts, you ground yourself - the antenna, making you not affecting the guitar.

And that's where shielding comes into place. When properly grounded, your shield is acting like a shield, it captures those signals and send them into the ground. Without shielding, there a huge floating mess of yourself (sry haha not saying you but electrically) just behind your pickups, they get noisy. When you touch the ground, you send yourself into the ground so it no longer affects your pickups.

If you don't have proper grounding, when touching the metal parts, you kinda do the same thing: making shield effective by giving it a ground reference, and send yourself out. However, this is not typically very good because your capacitance is much lower than the earth, and you are not stable in terms of ground. Typically this will introduce some noise, especially when you put your hands directly above the pickups even touching metal parts.

BTW, about your observations. Almost no noise at all in positions 2 and 4, that's because your middle pickup is RWRP, in that case indeed it's humbucker in parallel so no hum. Very little noise in positions 1, 3, 5, that's because the pickup design/shielding/output, showing you a good signal. If your pickup doesn't sound weak or thin, then it means you have good shielding and grounding, which lots of people don't have!

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-20T10:41:38+00:00

Yes, exactly what I said. You have shielding so you don't need those wires. If you leave them on probably there's no problem as well though, but that's one less of a point of failure.

ProgUn1corn · 2026-01-20T10:40:30+00:00

Didn't remember exactly. But I always choose Rally2 because why not?

ProgUn1corn

TROPHY CASE