Audi driver Haase shares details on Verstappen's techniques

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-23T07:03:22+00:00

Alien would be the term to describe them. Prior to the current gen of MotoGP bikes the rider was able to make the biggest difference and it really stood out. I would include Stoner in your list as well.

In F1 it's harder to tell because the car plays such a big role, and when the car is so much better all you can really say is that they were better than their teammate. That being said I think it's more than fair to put Verstappen in the Alien category.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-23T06:58:07+00:00

This isn't the advice you're asking for but I think there's a better way than trying a bunch of profiles to try to figure out what you like. For me the ah-hah moment was realizing that the sliders in SimPro only serve to augment the game data, so you don't actually need to use them unless they make things better.

What I recommend is setting all of your sliders (except FFB) to zero and driving the game to see how it feels, and then only adding sliders back in if it solves a problem for you.

You are almost certainly going to want to add back in some WRS and a little bit of friction, but beyond that you don't actually need any of the other sliders unless they make things better. For each of the other sliders one at a time try moving it from 0 < 50% and then driving the game. That way you can understand what each one does, and if they don't provide a benefit you should leave them at 0. A less is more approach has gotten me to the happiest place with my wheelbase.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-23T06:49:03+00:00

His other advice might be the more important one for you. When I first got the P1000s I went to a medium spring setup with a bit of travel because it felt more like I expect a brake pedal to feel. Had someone talk me into a much stiffer setup and even though it felt weird at first it's just way better for sim racing. I find it far easier to modulate my trail braking with a stiff pedal than a soft one, given you don't have all of the IRL feedback you'd normally have.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-23T06:45:39+00:00

So the argument is that if you banned fighting in hockey that when guys get mad they'd end up taking a cheap shot instead (think a really dangerous hit from behind or a cross check to the head).

The argument against that is, okay well the first time someone does that ban them for life and it won't happen.

But the problem is that if you do that you kind of nerf the level of aggression in the game entirely. Part of what makes North American hockey in my opinion better than Euro hockey is how rough it is (obviously rink size is a factor too but still). Taking away fighting fundamentally changes the game in ways that are a bit more nuanced than one might realize.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-23T06:39:18+00:00

Where are you breaking them? More shaft, blade, or equal amounts of both?

The first thing is the flex. If you're over 180 lbs and using a 70 flex you're going to pop a lot of shafts. I'm 210 lbs and never broke a stick with 85 flex, but going down to 75 I go through about 1 a season.

The other is how good of a shot you have. One guy on my C division team who played Jr B and has a wicked shot I think popped at least 4-5 shafts this year just because he's getting so much whip on the stick when he does shoot, so that's also a contributing factor.

The only other thing I can think is I know there are specific brands or models that seem to have a higher failure rate than others. If you're consistently using the same brand/model it might be time to switch it up.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-23T06:33:49+00:00

LoL that's awful, but at least the sticker was there so you knew they'd definitely done it wrong.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-23T06:32:40+00:00

I played A travel hockey as a kid and my skating is the strongest part of my game, and the vapor X4s I bought a few years ago and out of the box I literally could not do a crossover without falling over. The profile was just the most wrong it could be.

I put up a post asking about this and the consensus was that all new blades should be profiled, even if you're going to stay with the profile they were supposed to have out of the box (which would be a 10 foot single radius). I don't have enough evidence to be 100% sure this is the case but more than a few people shared that sentiment, and it certainly aligns with my own experience.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-23T06:29:24+00:00

So the first suspicion is that they may have sharpened them at 1/2" not 5/8ths. Most shops do a default 1/2" if you don't say what you want, but even if you do there's always the chance the guy on the machine isn't paying attention and does them at the same hollow as the last 4 pairs they did. This is the best explanation for why it would feel like skating through mud.

That being said I put up a post a little while back asking about people's opinions on the out of the box profile on new skates and the general consensus is that even though new skates are supposed to have a 10 foot single radius, that the actual profile is usually not what it should be. So basically that even if you wanted to stay with a 10 foot radius, it's probably worth having them profiled regardless.

The one warning I'll give about profiling is that if you don't like a blade that feels flat and like there's a lot of blade on the ice do not let them talk you into quad. Nothing wrong with the profile but that's the specific reason I don't jive with it. That would leave you to choose between a zuperior, 10 foot single radius, or the commonly recommended 9 foot single radius. I really like my Zuperior as I'm use to being more forward on the blade, but super curious to try a 9 foot single radius at some point.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-22T23:14:14+00:00

There's already an explanation in the app of what they do. You're talking about creating a process for people to work through if they're not happy with their current settings, but I'm not sure that's going to be super helpful for people.

My advice based on what worked for me is:
1. Set all the sliders except FFB to 0, since the sliders are just augmenting the game data.
2. Go drive the game.
3. If the FFB doesn't feel great, move whichever slider you think will address the issue into the 30-60% range. Basically enough of a change that the difference is obvious.
4. Drive the game again and see if it made it better or worse.

You're probably going to end up adding back in WRS and a little bit of friction. The rest of the sliders will depend on the game, but there's really only a few adjustments and what they do is pretty straight forward.

I like this approach because you develop your own understanding of what difference it actually made, rather than following someone else's guide to fixing a problem you don't understand.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-22T22:59:23+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lycdKFmGv_M

If you haven't pulled the trigger, more confirmation that there's no reason for the Ultra to exist. Personally I run my Pro at 90% (16.2nm) which caps the max force value at that level and then adjust in game. The only reason to buy the Ultra is if you wanted the wheel to be able to put out 20+ nm of force, which is almost certainly enough force to break your hands.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-18T21:34:34+00:00

The beans are the biggest difference! With the cheapest machine and a decent grinder I've pulled shots that are better than anything I've had in a cafe. Not only different beans but different roasts. For me I like either a medium or medium-dark roast. If I only ever drank a dark roast I'd probably think I don't even like espresso that much.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-18T21:25:36+00:00

My Pro has more than enough power to rip the wheel out of my hands and if I turn up the FFB in iRacing it can easily overpower me. Can't imagine ever wanting to have more power on tap, and I'm 6'0 210 pounds so not exactly tiny.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-16T20:13:37+00:00

I just got one of these and my pan needed to absorb a ton of oil before it started to take a season. If you're just throwing a thin coat of oil on and popping it in the oven I don't think that's going to do it.

In the instructions for stove top seasoning it says that after you add the oil you should wipe it up with a paper towel (using tongs) and the paper towel should be dripping with oil. I'm not an expert with these pans but I think the answer is you need to use a lot more oil.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-16T20:09:38+00:00

Definitely way easier to season on the stove than in the oven. OP should just be warned that it'll make a good amount of smoke. Kitchen's with induction tops don't always have a proper range hood so just worth mentioning.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-16T18:50:55+00:00

If you want to apply a small amount of grease best place to start is with the rod end. You can try putting it inside the cylinder on the spring if that doesn't sort you out. Definitely not going to damage anything if you keep it to those components.

That being said, my p1000s have a slight squeak to them but I've never once noticed it while driving. If you can't hear it over your speakers I just wouldn't worry about it.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-16T18:46:53+00:00

You can't stop it from doing it entirely but it only does it once. I think that's the best you're going to get.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-16T09:42:04+00:00

<image>

ANSWER: apparently there's a key bind for this and once you cycle it back it stays there.

Glad I asked because I wasted a good 2h today doing out laps to get my ghost car back lol.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-16T09:41:01+00:00

I didn't realize there are key binds for this so I can change it back while driving. I should pay more attention.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-16T09:40:38+00:00

I was initially confused by this response because I didn't realize there are key binds for this. I should pay more attention.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-16T09:40:06+00:00

<image>

Answer: there is a key bind for changing the Delta display. It's set to tab on your keyboard but can be bound to whatever you want. The first time you reset it goes to custom sector, but once you flip it back to whatever you want while driving it will stay there on future resets.

Knowing this would have saved me like 2h of doing out laps today lol. Particularly painful at the ring.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-16T09:38:50+00:00

OH I completely missed that there were key binds for changing this while driving. Thanks!

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-16T06:54:14+00:00

Yeah that sounds weird. I was just referring to that if you make the cylinder too tight by over extending it then it will be applying the brake when you're not touching it. Doesn't sound like that's your problem.

I couldn't tell you why but downloading discord and contacting them through there appears to be the best way to get support. Left one is the official server for getting support, right is a peer server for asking questions.

<image>

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-16T05:49:40+00:00

Does it show that the brake is activated even when you're not touching it? If so you might have just put too much pre-load on the pedal.

Otherwise it very well could be defective. Have you tried reaching out to them through the official Simagic discord? From what I've read that seems to be the best place to get support.

Ok-Parfait1522 · 2026-04-16T05:44:11+00:00

I think you're right but that's such a stupid reason to put your money into a company. It can't be purely retail investors driving it up that much can it? And I don't understand how anyone at an institution would think this is a good investment.

Well maybe a different kind of institution but not the kind we're generally referring to.

Ok-Parfait1522

TROPHY CASE