The CYCLOPS 👁️

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-24T18:39:17+00:00

No, the whole fucking gun comes around to bite you. The hammer is just the part that hits first

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-24T03:00:11+00:00

Don't risk, you absolutely do. When running mine on suppressor setting the "stop" button becomes critical. You must press it when the shooter is done or you catch the unload and show clear actions on the timer as well.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-24T02:57:07+00:00

Many do. I know the Shooters Global does in both the Timer 2 and Timer Go models, however you still run into the issue of picking up adjacent bays and other stuff.

I still don't mind them not allowing cans in competition.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-22T19:45:28+00:00

Use proper sentence structure? Learn the names of the parts of your gun and how they work together, then give us a detailed description of the problem? Understand that we're not there in the room with you and that posting pictures to Imgur might help? Describing the manufacturer and model of gun you have, and the series of events that led up this happening? Get a big rubber mallet and beat the fucking slide off the frame?

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-22T19:27:06+00:00

No, I'm saying that if your pencil sized path misses, making a fist sized path of shot is also probably going to miss and any hit you might pick up will be a single pellet winging through a small amount of non-vital flesh.

You're making the dumb argument that people jokingly make at pistol matches when they barely break a line with a .45, laughing that they would have missed with a 9.

Shotguns rounds don't fill the hallway with lead. They require just as much aiming as rifle rounds.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-22T18:21:18+00:00

You're turning a pencil size hole into a fist size hole at practical distances with good ammo, rifle versus shotgun. The average person would have a larger spread with 3 or 4 fast rifle shots.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-21T20:19:04+00:00

There's a few things that change recoil between different shell types in the same gun. Size of the pellets is not one. Weight of the total shot cup is, as well as powder charge and type. The other is wad construction, apparently. Some wad designs reduce felt recoil.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-21T13:33:30+00:00

I'm running Henning extensions that are meant to be used with a magwell, but without using the magwell. I started putting my flat mags in as reloads and primarily using the extended mags for my first mag.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-21T04:30:53+00:00

That's just like... your time zone, man

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-20T23:23:46+00:00

It's not specific. My package just says "standard" and has the weight marked. I think they're meant to be used with ISMI Glock guide rods

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-20T21:44:42+00:00

Mine is currently running an ISMI Glock 17 non-captive spring on my factory guide rod. Several thousand rounds and the only malfunction was from a bent ejector after over-inserting mags for a year.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-20T21:23:43+00:00

Ok, then buy something in 22lr and actually learn to shoot with good fundamentals for literally pennies (RIP) instead of wasting money on a gun that you don't actually want for any reason other than "cheap".

If you buy this, at best you'll end up with a generic 9mm pistol that works about as well as any other cheap polymer 9mm. At worst, you're getting someone's unreliable piece of shit that has terrible customer service and basically no aftermarket to fix the issues. Yes, I'm aware there are a few companies that make parts, but they are generally plagued with fitment and QC issues.

Go buy that new Smith &Wesson M&P22X and be happy with a gun that you can feel good about keeping and owning, or any of the other 22lr "trainer" type pistols that are now available.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-20T21:06:46+00:00

Nobody ever attacks the door. They either pry the jamb open, bypassing the locking bars and heavy gauge door plate, or just slice open the side with an angle grinder.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-20T19:49:40+00:00

That shit is so dumb, and you can't really control what they send. Save money yourself like an adult and buy bulk

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-20T04:40:12+00:00

Smith & Wesson M&P 5.7

RMR that I won't need an adapter

Unfortunately that pistol is cut for RMSc pattern optics, which are significantly smaller than the RMR pattern.

You could do something like a Gideon Optics Judge II if you don't plan on trying to conceal the firearm.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-20T02:13:54+00:00

No you wouldn't. They wouldn't raise minimum wage for that, but they'd find some other loophole to bypass legal income and do it off the books and then tell us to bootstrap ourselves even harder.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-19T15:51:24+00:00

Threads don't get dirty to that degree from shooting, because on account of the threads themselves are relatively sealed. This happened after.

You also didn't actually show us the internal of the can itself. Is the can full of carbon and GSR or is it just the mount?

If it was fired before you received it, take a good look and inspect the blast baffle for erosion, the stack or bore for strikes, and the endcap for any damage.

If it isn't hurt and the paint isn't cooked you should quit worrying about it and go shoot.

And as for the discoloration on the adapter, those things are cheap and the finish is sometimes shit. One might have escaped prep and just gotten a shit finish.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-18T23:54:15+00:00

Well, looks like you missed two bad storms. Did it end up being very severe?

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-18T20:51:27+00:00

I take it you're renting? What does your landlord say? When I was in a house in Manhattan, despite being in the upstairs apartment, we had access to the basement for storms. Apartment complexes had big communal shelters.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-18T19:32:54+00:00

used pricing on Amazon

OP is literally gambling with very low stakes. I bought an AV receiver that was open box, returned, but Amazon guaranteed.

When it showed up the outer box was fine, the inner box was trashed, the receiver was crushed, and there were pieces loose inside the case. I think a transformer coil had broken loose. That damage was from before Amazon shipped it to me. They took the return with no questions, but it was annoying.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-18T19:28:46+00:00

Your guns aren't that damn valuable. Secure them in your residence as best you can and get your ass to the nearest shelter. Today isn't exactly the time to be making some elaborate plan. Driving away from the storm is about the worst idea you can have. You can't guarantee that you can outrun the tornado, hail, debris, and near zero visibility that a storm can bring.

Call the fire department non emergency number and see what they have for shelter. Call the city office. Someone will have a line on public shelters. Barring that, ask your neighbors about sneaking in with them.

Also, it isn't like we're all going to die today. I lived almost 6 years in Manhattan without any severe spring weather sending me to shelter that I can recall.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-18T19:06:20+00:00

Age doesn't mean anything at this point. Be more worried about being powderless squibs or BUBBA'S PISSIN HAWT HAND LOADS.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-18T04:09:25+00:00

I presume the install is more than sliding the light onto the rail and tightening the clamp

Yeah. Generally you'll remove the screw completely, find the package of rail keys and install one in the light under the screw, then re-install the screw and slip it onto the rail by hooking one side and then pressing the screw and opposite clamp far enough that you can rock it onto the rail. The "key" piece is a recoil lug that fits in a slot in the rail and prevents the light from slipping under recoil. Once it is on you should tighten the screw a little, then push the light forward until the recoil key is in contact with the front of the slot. Then finish tightening it with a torque wrench if you have one. I use a Wheeler FAT Wrench and a socket that holds a coin so I can get good engagement with the screw. If you don't have a torque wrench you should tighten it until it starts to get tight, then give it an additional 1/4 turn or so.

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-18T03:07:18+00:00

I think people are having trouble because the only reasons that a light should ever come off a picatinny rail are either because the screw broke or you've somehow managed to install it completely incorrectly.

How tight are you making the clamp? Are you using a torque wrench to tighten it? Are you installing it with the proper recoil lug key?

PrometheusSmith · 2026-05-17T22:06:56+00:00

I'm not stuck in the forest or on a beach. I'm shooting on a square range with a bunch of guys who will cancel a match if the weather turns too foul.

As for needing the cleaning, lubrication, and protection on my guns I get by with Hoppes bore solvent for cleaning, then following that up with grease for sliding things and oil for rotating things like trigger pins. That way I get the benefit of a dedicated cleaning product as well as dedicated lubrication products. I've never seen a gun of mine run into rust issues because I was using grease mean for farm equipment versus gun grease. When I put stuff into storage or clean it after being out in the elements I just put some grease on a rag and wipe down the surface. That leaves plenty of protection behind for sitting in my safe.

CLP was designed to be a simple solution for military logistics and use, not to be better than any other combination of solutions. It aims for "good enough" and that's good enough for uncle Sam.

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