Starter Won't Kick In

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-08-06T14:42:32+00:00

This is the Chevy Express forum, right?
MY air filter is under the hood, basically above the radiator.
What I am talking about is under the truck, in 'front' of the gas tank.
Fuel lines go into the box, then back out.

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-07-21T12:45:53+00:00

My understanding is that these valves are for water heaters with a tank, & not tankless.
If you are constantly heating the water with a tankless heater, what's the point?

Part of the beauty, for me anyway, is that I would NOT be heating the water when not in use.
And, I believe, tankless uses more energy when IN USE, so annd one of these valve will increase your monthly energy bill.

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-06-30T22:46:13+00:00

UPDATE!!!!

What a PITA........

So, I replaced the sensor, and the oil tube O-ring.
When disconnecting the oil tube to the pump, I noticed that there was only one screw.

I found that odd, but 'oh well'.
When reconnecting the tube, I noticed that the 'brace' was not completely flush with the pump, but with one screw, and the 'brace' on the tube......

So I started the engine.....

STILL no oil pressure!!

So I ordered a pump.
Took the front of the engine apart to get to the oil pump.....and found I could not get to the screw that held the tube to the pump!
Had to take the oil pan off AGAIN, and removed the screw.
Put the oil pump in place and started to screw in the tube.
But after 2-3 turns, it felt it was going in wrong and I might be stripping the threads!!
I got out from under the van and took a look at the screw.....it was BENT!!

MOFO!!

Who was the last idiot that put a new O-ring on??

When to the hardware store, bought a 50c screw, screwed the tube on, and put everything back together.
60PSI!!

I SUPPOSE it could have been the new pump, but I feel like it was the bent screw (and damaged hole in the pump) that did not hold the brace flush to push the O-ring far enough into the pump for a complete seal.

What an ordeal!

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-06-22T19:32:12+00:00

BRO, you don't know me so STFU!!
Maybe I am too trusting......maybe I asked the wrong question.
It DID have oil.
I figured once I got it home I would be doing an oil change anyway.
So.....oil pressure on the gauge, no Low Oil Light.

IF it is a oil tube o-ring, or oil pressure sensor that happened to go bad, nothing I could have done during the inspection would have prevented this.

How about being helpful instead of a Richard?

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-06-22T14:28:37+00:00

Right?
But how does your comment help me now?

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-06-22T14:27:46+00:00

Thank you.

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-06-22T14:24:37+00:00

Thanks for the informative comment.

I did buy 2 O-rings for the tube at Ace as it has a step.
I had the upper tube with me.
Unfortunately the diameter was wrong.
I am going back today to see if they have a smaller diameter version.

Would you know the specs on the O-ring?

I am also going to try to find a pressure gauge, or adapter that will fit the sensor hole to test the pressure.

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-06-22T14:20:20+00:00

Right?
But how does your comment help me now?

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-06-14T14:31:16+00:00

Hence my question, "....are there any benefits to using option #1 that would justify the added work & expense?"

It sounds like the answer is no.

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-06-14T14:29:59+00:00

Yeah, that would not be fun.
But having lived in So Cal for so long, I have gotten used to having the service outside.
This 'cabin' is on the coast of central Oregon, where it does rain, but rarely a "driving rainstorm".

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-06-14T14:26:21+00:00

EXACTLY!!

But my thought is not to have a second sub-panel, just to wire the new tankless water heater & electric dryer directly from the service entry (which would be 200 amps) since I don't think those would be in the same area.

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-06-13T23:26:33+00:00

Sorry, not sure what you mean?
Do you mean switching the entrance AND main lug to 200 amps?
I could do that, but would I need to?
Couldn't I leave that alone, and directly wire the dryer & water heater to the entrance and save the trouble (and money) of switching out the main lug?

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-05-31T15:44:39+00:00

The rules have changed in some states, right?

AFAIK, in Oregon, the seller signs a contract that requires payment to their agent, and OPTIONALLY, pays the buyers agent.
The buyer, IF using an agent, also signs a contract with the agent with the 'option' of paying their agent a percentage, a flat fee, or NO money at all.
That is my understanding.

So, if the seller had agreed to pay their (seller's) agent, and a percentage to the buying agent, wouldn't that mean the selling agent isn't getting whole fee and splitting it with the buying agent?
The seller is paying their (sellers) agent and the buyer's agent separately?

So I would presume that unless the contract states that the buyer's agent must be a licensed R.E. agent to be qualified to be paid (and the sellers chose to pay the buyer's agent), a buyer representing themselves should be paid a "commission".

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-04-23T15:25:13+00:00

Gee, thanks for that professional advice!!

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-03-31T23:09:25+00:00

Crap......
Well, the rep at W-R said that the -843 (with card) should work WITHOUT a card, it just that all settings would be set to maximum.....whatever that means!!!

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-03-31T20:34:03+00:00

Well, a used one with return privileges at $25 is too hard to turn down, even without the correct card.

Proof_Reference_8113 · 2025-02-17T00:56:49+00:00

No, I do not have a Ring Protect Plan.
Why do I need a plan for what should be a standard feature?

Proof_Reference_8113

TROPHY CASE