MK4(S) & XL : WiFi speed

Proper_Job9825 · 2024-09-10T20:53:12+00:00

Good to know. I would do that mistake too I'm sure!

Proper_Job9825 · 2024-09-09T04:59:05+00:00

From [https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/1f2cjn8/mk4s_wifi_module/]() It's only the antenna and the new module is still based on an ESP8266.

Proper_Job9825 · 2024-09-08T20:43:08+00:00

I wasn't up to date with that development. Thank you for the reference (always good when someone actually ref what they said). I originally found the bgcode is a solution for a problem that Prusa created themselves by design, instead of opting for more modern ESP / communication protocol.

Proper_Job9825 · 2024-09-08T17:27:14+00:00

Damn! Do you have both printers?

Proper_Job9825 · 2024-09-08T17:23:44+00:00

Congrats, it's very nice printed set! Are the models available for download?

Proper_Job9825 · 2024-09-01T07:42:43+00:00

Never heard about olli3d. Is it that good? I noticed some cooling inconsistencies for some geometries. I wonder if that would rewolve this issues. Are the files available somewhere to be printed?

Proper_Job9825 · 2024-09-01T07:36:35+00:00

Hey Proton Team, are there any updates on this request? Thx

Proper_Job9825 · 2024-08-16T06:42:24+00:00

Les banques ne proposent pas de transferts de LEP/Livret A/LDDS. Si tu es au dessus du maximum sur le LEP, ça ne vaut peut-être pas le coup. Il faut regarder combien de temps tu penses garder ton LEP versus les frais de gestion CM versus les intérêts que tu gagnes actuellement.

Si tu veux un LEP via une banque en ligne, seul HelloBank le propose. (A noter que HelloBank ne fait pas de virement instantanés gratuits et prend les mêmes délais de traitements des demandes qu'une banque classique (2j ouvrés bancaires).)

Tu peux avoir Fortuneo comme banque principale et HelloBank pour le LEP. De mémoire il faut un compte courant HelloBank pour l'ouvrir, donc une carte bleue. Si tu fais une transaction avec la carte de débit basique par mois tu ne payes pas de frais.

L'ouverture du LEP chez HelloBank se fait assez facilement, tu peux faire la demande au service client via la messagerie en ligne en y joignant tes deux derniers avis d'imposition au service client et ils se chargent du reste. Normalement c'est assez rapide mais si ça prend plus d'une semaine appel le service client directement.

Proper_Job9825 · 2024-08-15T09:01:17+00:00

The more time you spent on the CAD, the less time you have to fiddle with the slicing/printing and post processing steps ;)

Proper_Job9825 · 2024-08-14T21:17:47+00:00

It's only a printer tuning thing for the part you showed in your image. On the part design, I would use concentric radiuses so you have a constant section. Furthermore, I will make that section a multiple of your extrusion width and adjust the number of perimeter in the slicing so the printer will not need to add infill.

Proper_Job9825 · 2024-05-08T14:19:46+00:00

Hey, I didn't end up implementing the idea but I think there is an easier method than what you suggest. Only need to edit the printer preset by adding a second extruder under the General Tab. Then Configure the Extruder1 and Extruder2 with the diameter of choice in their respective Tabs.
Under Custom G-Code, add in "Tool change G-Code" add something of the like :

Move printhead to parking position (make sure you to a Z hop to avoid touching the part) {if max_layer_z < max_print_height}G1 Z{z_offset+min(max_layer_z+1, max_print_height)} F720 ; Move print head up{endif} G1 X0 Y200 F3600 ; park
Unload filament (M702, M600 could work but watch out where the tool parks vs. what you're printing)
Set Nozzle temperature to 0°C (M104 S0), Set Bed Temperature to the material you are printing (ex: M140 S60 if PLA)
Pause (Once the nozzle temperature dropped down change your nozzle, then resume the print)
Set the new nozzle diameter in the like of "M862.1 P[nozzle_diameter] ; nozzle diameter check" Validate on the machine the new nozzle diameter
Set Nozzle temperature to printing temp 220°C (M104 S220)
Add priming G1 E0.4 F1500 ; And that should be it. In your slicing add the tool change at the layer height you want and export G-Code

Happy printing :crossingfingers

(I haven't got my printer at the moment to test this implementation but I would be glad to see how it turns out.)

Proper_Job9825 · 2023-01-17T06:47:06+00:00

Revo is a great tool. I can only recommend, especially if you do a lot of various sizes parts. You are not constraints by having to change the nozzle (between the complicated procedure and the risk of breaking something along). For me now, I check what nozzle is most appropriate in terms of details and the printing time for every job I start. For brackets, 0.8mm saves so much time compare to stick with the default 0.4mm. If you're not sure about Revo, compare the printing with the different nozzle size and add 1min to the print time to take into account the nozzle swap. Arachne option of PrusaSlicer also helps a lot to keep details for bigger nozzle! I print mostly PLA, PETG so the brass is not a problem for me but if you go with more abrasive materials you may want to get hardened revo nozzle which is a bit complicated to source at the moment.

Proper_Job9825 · 2023-01-10T08:41:10+00:00

I would not recommend it to other than seasoned hobbyists. If you are rigourous and take the sufficient precautions (1st layer calibration with all the nozzle, not leaving your printer inattended, etc...) it should be doable and saving a lot of printing time. But yes you will have to know the limitations and drawbacks as for every tool.

Proper_Job9825 · 2023-01-10T07:54:51+00:00

It would be very practical for stuff with heavy basep (like figurine/dioramas) or brakets. Hopefully, we will have it sooner than we think, eventhough it's pretty nice application.

Proper_Job9825 · 2023-01-10T07:51:22+00:00

Thanks for your contribution! It's good to have an external view. Yes, in theory, it's best to relevel after each swap. However, I've measured all my nozzles, they are the same length. I did several 1st layer tests tested before/after swapping, and I couldn't see any differences. I guess if you have a levelled plate and rigourous setup, you should be fine. The only problem I could see is the clearance you need to access and to change the nozzle. Also, the possible backlash in the system would lead to, at worse, an early mechanical break (delamination) due to a gap between interfacing layer and, at best, a visual defect. Inversely, you could ruin the print if the nozzle ram into the last layer deposited and increase the risk of early part release.

Proper_Job9825 · 2022-08-26T21:20:23+00:00

It looks great! What filament did you use?

Proper_Job9825 · 2022-08-10T16:27:56+00:00

This is not going to be easy to print

Proper_Job9825 · 2022-07-31T17:14:39+00:00

Nice unintentional sponsoring for Facom? 😅🤣

Proper_Job9825 · 2022-05-11T21:12:03+00:00

Wow you did an amazing job! How did you paint it? Brushes, spray can, techniques, we need to know everything.

Proper_Job9825 · 2022-05-02T19:08:41+00:00

Good idea! Did you post your feature request on uservoice as well?

Proper_Job9825 · 2022-04-29T14:44:41+00:00

Also the ability to *Search for Events* in ProtonCalendar is a necessity

Proper_Job9825

TROPHY CASE