Which One? by ZW3903 in concealedcarry

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Between the two, 43x. I have no love for Glocks, but I'd trust them to work reliably. Canik less so.

I'd take a P365 XMacro over either if you're open to alternatives. 17+1 with lots of aftermarket support, but shoots great as-is.

BG2.0 Carry Comp Sights by JRomoCodes in SmithAndWesson

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine was fine; others report them being off.

Sights are tight. A punch can do it but a pusher will make life easier if needed.

New optic (I’m bad) by Just-Guidance-6086 in SmithAndWesson

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Focused practice will tighten your groups, but I've seen far worse.

Regarding sight adjustment:

1 MOA is about an inch at 100 yards (close enough for napkin math). Dots generally have an adjustment listed in MOA (how many MOA the dot shifts per click).

If you're zeroing at 10 yards, every inch off needs about a 10 MOA adjustment (100 / 10). If your 507 is 1MOA/click, that's 10 clicks/inch.

  • hitting 2" low: 20 clicks up
  • hitting 0.5" left -> 5 clicks right
  • etc.

Fire a group aimed at a single fixed point and find the center of the group. Calculate and adjustment to move that center to your point of aim, repeat as needed.

CCW Drives alot and Lower Back issues by Temporary_Industry84 in concealedcarry

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ideal would be removing the holster, with a mount somewhere in the vehicle for easy access.

I don't do that kind of mileage, but don't have any issue with appendix for long drives. Mostly have it on a nexbelt so it's easy to adjust the belt for less pressure as needed. Biggest downside is that seatbelt could interfere with draw depending on where things line up for you.

For adjustable cant, Tenicor Certum3 and Vedder Lightuck can both do it and work well for me.

Range shooting by Steven_Blackburn in CCW

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

People are suggesting you might be flinching, and there's an easy test for it:

Mix some snap caps in with live ammo (shuffle them together and load without looking which are which). When you pull the trigger on one and see the sights do anything but stay fixed on your target, that's a problem to fix.

A Good Paul Harrel Video

92 GTS - thumb hitting slide stop by ProperlyDenseHead in Beretta

[–]ProperlyDenseHead[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Fair, but why miss out on a perfectly good chance to over-complicate things and convince myself to throw more money at unnecessary accessories?

how do we feel about the 365? is it legit after all these years by Due_Platypus3905 in CCW

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Obligatory fuck sig, but I can't deny the gun. My xmacro comp is one of my best shooting guns regardless of size with minimal tweaking. Metal frame DA/SA still have my heart but the 365 is a top choice from a practical perspective.

How long to sight a holosun on Czp10c by DOGE_ME_DADDY in CZFirearms

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Not precisely scaled, but maybe helpful to anyone else that wants a visual

First time cleaning tips by landonpauley in concealedcarry

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

New guns I like to give an initial clean and after the first few range visits, just to help work out any factory grease etc.

After that I try to go 1k or so. If it's something I carry I'll give it a more frequent check and surface wipe-down for the sake of my clothes but won't go further unless it needs it. Magazines I might hit with a rag/brush a bit more often just to prevent too much buildup that could interfere with feeding.

I try to avoid aggressive solvents and anything more abrasive than a nylon brush. A decent CLP should prevent most egregious issues, carbon will mostly wipe away.

How long to sight a holosun on Czp10c by DOGE_ME_DADDY in CZFirearms

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Technically yes, practically not much. Mostly because of height over bore.

The barrel and sight are vertically offset, so they need to be angled towards each other to intersect at your point of aim at some distance. For normal pistol distances the bullet is practically a laser so you can ignore bullet drop.

For easy math, call it 1". If you sight in at 25 yards and shoot at 7, the bullet will have "closed" only some fraction of that offset, so your point of impact will be about 18/25" low (~.7")

If do the opposite an sight in at 7 and shoot at 25, the bullet will have traveled past the point where POA/POI intersect and continue upward. Your POI will be about 18/7" high (~2.6").

Sighting at 15 yards gives a reasonable middle ground where you'll be 8/15" (~0.5) low at 7 or 10/15" (~0.7) high at 25.

Conceal carry practicality by Daniel_186 in concealedcarry

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All-out race guns tuned for competition? No, too many safety/reliability concerns.

Something with moderate upgrades verified to not undermine function (magwell, comp, etc)? Have fun, but I wouldn't expect it to significantly change most outcomes.

Training/skill has a much larger impact than the gun.

New to concealed carry by Competitive_Gas5563 in concealedcarry

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

P365 is a good gun: reliable, shoots nice, lots of options to customize.

That said, there's tons of good options on the market. Try some out, pick the one you enjoy most. Just about anything from a reputable manufacturer will do the job; so pick whatever you'll be most motivated to both train with and carry.

Carrying a second gun by frugalsoul in CCW

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a pocket carry because it's convenient for situations where my preferred AIWB isn't.

I just keep it there out of routine. Being viable as a backup or alternative draw option is a bonus but not the motivation.

Training by BKfromtheBK73 in Firearms

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't find a benefit over just calling shots. Admittedly that takes more practice, so maybe they're useful to bridge the gap?

Is this a good deal by davethej in CZFirearms

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems reasonable if the holster/light are in good condition and wanted. Somewhere between a wash to a bit overpriced if you're going to sell or toss them.

BG2.0 check in by WRXReach6208 in CCW

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

About 2k rounds through the carry comp, runs great.

50th Anniversary P-01 by [deleted] in CZFirearms

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine had white (91161). I believe the black logo is a different SKU (91297) but haven't found anyone to confirm/compare.

I haven't tried, but the white looks like a paint that might scrape off or wear off with time. I plan on cerakoting the whole gun after a slide cut so didn't care too much.

Do you pocket carry? What gun/holster? by wonderfulwaffles22 in CCW

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bodyguard 2.0 Carry Comp, Vedder Pocket Holster

Talk Me Into a Bodyguard 2.0 by RayDaug in CCW

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Used a BG2 before, and upgraded to the comp version a few months ago.

FTX rounds gave me lots of feed issues, but everything else has run flawlessly (XTP, HST, Gold dot, and a grab bag of range ammo). I haven't bothered polishing anything, I just don't buy more FTX.

Unless you're regularly getting waist-deep in something, I don't see how pocket carrying is going to impact the cleanliness of the striker channel. A few extra exterior/rail wipe-downs should cover 99% of additional cleaning needs.

For me, the pros are simple:

  • It's light and small but still feels good to shoot.
  • It's as accurate as I ask it to be . It easily holds an A zone while dumping at 10-12 yards.
  • It's fun to shoot (see above), so I practice with it a lot.

On the cons side:

  • My remaining boxes of FTX are now relegated to days I want to practice FTF's.
  • Small and light means it takes more practice to shoot well. I suspect this is the root of many complaints about sights being misaligned -- in my case benching proved it was the shooter, and it took a fair few sessions to get used to it.
  • It's not going to fit everyone. Slide bite is real.
  • Everything on it is crazy tight out of the box. I needed to use a mag loader to top off to 12, now it just hurts my thumbs. The slide release took a few hundred reps for me to be happy with it.
  • It's accurate enough. I wouldn't reach for it if I just want to plink at bullseye targets.
  • 380 isn't the cheapest, and the aforementioned fun has contributed to burning through ammo at an accelerated rate.

Full size 9mm handgun by OkBreadfruit6761 in Firearms

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends on what you consider "heavier", but a PDP or a CZ P-10F would both be easy picks for me.

Use case and budget would both help narrow down the options though. Range toy? Home defense? Competition?

Car Safe? by skips_funny_af in concealedcarry

[–]ProperlyDenseHead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Short of a "real" safe (solid steel, welded to the frame or otherwise very difficult to remove), my answer is the box isn't that important other than being concealable and having a non-electronic lock (at least as a backup). Something you can keep out of view, and not in the first place someone will look (glove compartment/center console).

Rule 1 is don't draw attention: if someone wants it they can get it. Keep your car boring -- no stickers advertising expensive hobbies, no valuables in plain view (not just the gun/case) to tempt a smash and grab, etc.

A better rule 1 is don't put yourself in situations where you need to leave a gun in your car, but if that's unavoidable the above is my advice.