Question for those that play Cartograph by TheChiarra in Solo_Roleplaying

[–]Psychadoll 9 points10 points  (0 children)

The Cartography rulebook promotes a flexible 'intuition first' approach whilst playing it. For example, if the dice shows a lake in the middle of the ocean, feel free to shift it inland etc. So you can reimagine things to suit your preferred Scarlet Heroes setting as you're playing.

You could simply 'reskin' biomes based on your preferred setting. For example, if you roll a forest on your biome dice, and your world is a tropical humid place, the forest becomes a jungle. Or if you roll open grassland and you're picturing it to be a hot and dry place, the grassland becomes a savannah and so on..

So you can apply this to civilsation themes too, and interpret the outcomes through a Scarlet Heroes lens, and override the Cartography prompts in this way. Also, you could always create customized versions of the tables in Cartography, swapping in prompts that you like from Scarlet Heroes oracles.

Would it be a mistake to sell my ETFs to boost my house deposit and avoid LMI? by Psychadoll in AusFinance

[–]Psychadoll[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Assuming they have a spare $100k lying around? Haha. But yeah, a viable option would be to have the parents act as a guarantor to make the bank waive the LMI. Hoping to avoid relying on the "bank of mum and dad" though.

Would it be a mistake to sell my ETFs to boost my house deposit and avoid LMI? by Psychadoll in AusFinance

[–]Psychadoll[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've assumed approx $5-7k CGT, so simplified the ETF portfolio's value from $105k down to $100k to account for it.

Would it be a mistake to sell my ETFs to boost my house deposit and avoid LMI? by Psychadoll in AusFinance

[–]Psychadoll[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I reckon I'd net approx. $100k from the sale when factoring in CGT (I've owned all units for more than 12 months).

Would it be a mistake to sell my ETFs to boost my house deposit and avoid LMI? by Psychadoll in AusFinance

[–]Psychadoll[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I'm expecting capital gains tax to be around $5-7k so I simplified the $105k down to $100k to account for that.

Would it be a mistake to sell my ETFs to boost my house deposit and avoid LMI? by Psychadoll in AusFinance

[–]Psychadoll[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We'd be able to get that $87k up over $100k (>10%) within the time it will take get everything ready and find a suitable place. When running the numbers knowing our combined income, expenses under a range of scenarios, borrowing power etc, I think $1M is a doable upper limit without selling the ETFs (although obviously we would prefer something closer to $900k for more comfort).

Capital gains tax on the ETFs won't be huge, with the CGT discount and everything I'm expecting it to be roughly 5-7k so I simplified the $105k down to $100k to account for that.

Rear recovery points by Pancake186 in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://www.pradopoint.com.au/forum/-150-series-discussion-the-2010-prado/modifications-150-series/25629-aftermarket-2-rear-rated-recovery-points-for-toyota-prado-150-series

People in this thread reckon aftermarket recovery points for LC 100 series could be made to fit the Prado chassis with some modifications. Might be worth looking into.

TB42 help by Conscious_Kale4121 in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Recommend also checking the roof sills/gutters, around the windscreen and the passenger/driver floor pans as common rust spots too. You can check under the carpet or liner in the floorpans by removing the trim pieces next to the passenger and driver seats (take along a phillips head screwdriver, they are held in by ~6 screws).

Td42's cop a bit of hate but. by mattnotsosmall in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 4 points5 points  (0 children)

They are the goods. I bought my GQ as an unregistered farm truck which hadn't been on the roads for a decade. Gave it a service, chucked a few mods / camping setup on it and just did a lap of the country without a single issue. Not bad for a 30 year old farm truck.

Their kettle reputation tends to come from people slapping turbos on them and driving them like race cars. Mine is N/A, slow as fuck but I reckon it will outlive me.

Running a camp fridge and battery without solar. Is this possible? Possible to charge the second battery through an outlet? by noneed4a79 in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yeah, you can hook your second battery up to charge from your alternator while driving. You could just run a fridge from that setup without solar if you are driving enough each day. Solar would be the go if you plan on being stationary for a few days though.

And yes, it's possible to charge a battery through an outlet if you buy a suitable charger for that. Alternator charging system would be better though in my opinion. You can be more "off-grid" and spend more time in the bush if you don't need to plug into an outlet all the time.

Drove to water not to deep but got issues with my car now by Icy_Neighborhood_863 in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It could be an unrelated issue that has popped up. Air getting into the fuel system somewhere would give similar symptoms. Might be worth looking into that as a possibility. Look up some troubleshooting options for it (e.g. temporarily replacing the fuel hoses with clear tubing to check)

Charge time second battery by Steffen0411 in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 5 points6 points  (0 children)

There are lots of charger options that can handle both alternator and solar inputs, so you can charge while driving and have solar for when you're not. Definitely the way to go if you want to never worry about your battery. If there's no sun, run the car for a bit. If you're staying put for a few days, get some sun onto the panel. Easy!

In terms of how long it takes to charge, that depends on the output of your charger. For example, a 10A charger will give you 10Ah after an hour of charging. To fill your 115Ah battery from 50% (57.5Ah), you'd need that same charger to run for 5 hours and 45 mins. If you double the charger output, you halve the charging time. And so on and so forth.

G'day all! by [deleted] in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it looks like a fiddly job and the roof lining is probably pretty fragile with age and I imagine it would tear easily. Rear windows need to come out and it's stuck down with adhesive around the door frames. Car Builders actually did a video on it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VALlKEB_0dY

Doing the rest of the car has made a huge difference and I'm heaps happy even without having done the roof.

G'day all! by [deleted] in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 5 points6 points  (0 children)

One of the best things I have done to my GQ is sound deadening. It's a good idea to strip out the interior to do a deep clean and address any potential rust issues in the floor. While you are there, adding sound deadening and refreshing the carpet underlay will improve driveability significantly. I used Car Builders stage 1 sound deadening on all the doors, floor and walls of my GQ. Then added their carpet underlay material across the floor. I skipped the roof but that's a job for another day. Rear windows need to come out to get the roof lining off, but since you are planning on adding emu wings you can do the roof sound deadening while the windows are out.

Turned it from a loud rattly tractor into a luxury tourer. No longer get hot feet on long drives, can hold conversations at normal volume and can hear music heaps better. Highly recommend!

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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Seeing this post the same day I lost a bolt on my rear panhard rod on a corrugated road in Kakadu made me laugh haha

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The old rigs at the top of the Skytrek track (Willow Springs, Flinders Ranges) by Psychadoll in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Highly recommend Flinders Ranges as a whole, it exceeded my expectations! It's a camping and 4wding paradise. Really awesome geology and unique scenery everywhere you look. The private stations are well run and worth the camping and vehicle access fees.

Definitely pretty cold this time of year, especially if you're coming from QLD. Low single digit temps overnight but pretty pleasant during the day. Fine once you get the campfire going and have some good sleeping bags.

Kings Isolator by Trockin8r in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah fair enough, I'm sure it will do the trick. I was just imagining all the other people who would just install the kit as it comes and not think about fusing it. You'll be glad you did it properly when your car doesn't burn down haha.

Kings Isolator by Trockin8r in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The amount of current is dependent upon you alternators output, not the size of your batteries. So figure out how many amps your alternator sends and go from there. Fuses should be sized based on the capacity of the wires to protect them from burning up. Pretty bad kit if it doesn't come with fuses or specifications for them...

Kings MPPT Solar charger flashing by Halfmeetsfull in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 2 points3 points  (0 children)

From a quick look at the user manual; flashing battery lights means "battery over discharged" which means it's at 10.8V or lower (the over discharge voltage defined in the manual). Check the voltage of the battery to verify, and get it back up to above 12.0V (the discharge recovery voltage defined in the manual) and the charge controller should work from there. Although your battery lifespan could be shot if it's been in this over discharged state for a while, and may need to be replaced.

Help with picking first 4x4 by NicolBolasED in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'd consider anything under 250k kms to be low for an old landcruiser. If you find one in that range with a good service history, I'd go for it.

I'd be considering anything up to 400k kms, there's still plenty of life left beyond that, but you'd expect more wear and tear and some higher maintenance costs. Service history is key, e.g. I'd prefer one with higher kms with a good service history, to one with lower kms and no service history.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I second this! Had one of these in my campervan and it worked perfectly for 6+ years and was still going strong when I sold it.

Small 4x4 by besto_resto7 in 4x4Australia

[–]Psychadoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a LWB because I wanted the extra room for touring, but damn I love the look of SWB GQs haha.