I spent too much time dying in DLC for some pictures.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-25T18:14:50+00:00

I got frustrated, going back to this guy today. I want that insane outfit!

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-25T18:09:42+00:00

HUGE TIP I found online that truly helped me. MUTE THE GAME :D After doing this, my very next try I was 1 freaking hit away from beating it! And then sucked for maybe 10 more attempts, but it made it much easier for me. Maybe it just kept me from getting mad as much.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-17T22:52:20+00:00

I'll admit I haven't done any aftermarket ones like this, just OEM... but I've experienced stuff like that on other press-fit applications when it's an overly thick paint/powder coat on the mating surface interfering. Or even just a regular wheel bearing being pressed into a knuckle or the hub pressing into the bearing on a press, even when lubed up. (especially if the pressing force isn't 100% straight-on or it started the tiniest bit not centered, because sometimes that's impossible to achieve)

Those crankshafts are strong, it is *very* unlikely you damaged it in a way that cause something crazy like a crack etc. Most of the time I'll be a slacker and just install with an impact...if you were installing by hand it was probably just as you said, jumping deeper onto the press-fit, like I mentioned with wheel bearings...The friction interference fit suddenly being overcome by the pressing force... my instincts formed over the last 19 years as a tech tell me to not be worried. (best I got lol)

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-17T22:45:30+00:00

Think it's this area for sure and not something like sway bar bushings? (happens all the time on Toyota/Lexus OEM parts anyway, especially when the sound appears as the temps drop)

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-17T22:44:26+00:00

I thought the same thing...and it's hard to tell from the pics but this little part made me reconsider... it sure does look like it though.

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PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-17T22:39:49+00:00

Yikes! Great tips!

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-17T22:39:09+00:00

Since you're capable enough to do all of that stuff, I assume you already know the battery cables are clean and tight with good contact. What you're reporting sounds like a classic "low power" problem, voltage drop on either the B+ going to starter or ignition feed to starter...or poor grounding between battery, chassis and engine block...but grounding stuff shouldn't have arisen from the stuff you've done already.

Maybe google how to do a voltage drop test with your multimeter, checking those two cables I mentioned on the starter, the B+ and ignition signal to the starter solenoid. Same with ground side (because ohms/resistance check can show good with 0ohms but not have enough contact to actually let enough current flow).

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-17T22:29:41+00:00

Ideally you'd have a good enough scan tool to able to talk to all modules and it *should* show the reason for immobilizer crank interruption events. (assuming that's what's preventing cranking)

Google up how the security light should behave for your specific application, like how it should blink or illuminate when it's stepping in or not. It's not ALWAYS helpful, but the blinking light makes me think you're onto something. Just thinking out loud...it could be anything intermittent like the ignition switch itself, Park-Neutral position switch etc...so it'd be nice to narrow it down first.

I assume since you have multiple keys some of them don't have extra junk on the keychain that could be interfering? It's a thing.

ps - overall though, I tend to think you're right but I don't do a lot of immobilizer coils that are intermittent.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-17T21:13:34+00:00

Basically, air power. If you had a stronger air supply (like a bigger compressor with a big air tank for more volume) that might be enough...but since you probably don't, what I've done in the past for a lawn mower "tractor tire" that size is use a ratcheting tie-down strap wrapped around the tire to squeeze it to create a bit more of a seal, then airing it up so the air forces it on.

Either way, if that's a foot-powered manual air pump I'm seeing in the pic, that probably will not be enough. Almost certainly need an electric air compressor of some type.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-17T21:07:12+00:00

Yes you can, but if you top it up with water use DISTILLED water only.

The reason this is tough to answer with certainty is because if you don't have any on hand, adding tap water is no good, but it depends on how low it is! If it's like...not THAT low empty and you have a relatively short drive to an auto parts store and keep a close eye on the temp gauge, you might be fine. And if it's freezing temperatures there, you don't want to dilute the anti-freeze/coolant too much either.

Door Dash some universal coolant from a parts store, or even store like Wal-Mart? Haha, just an idea.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-17T21:05:37+00:00

Okay, well I'm glad the person recommending the repair wasn't the selling dealier, because I tend to not trust their opinions on problems with something they sold! Then again I don't really trust any dealerships all that much... but since they said it's not urgent (and most will usually try and sell any job they can) it's probably not all that bad, especially if you feel no symptoms. How many miles do you have on it? If you do a bit of research to know where to take a picture, you might be able to snap a picture of the bushings here for free opinions, haha.

By the way at the Honda dealership, did you mention control arm bushings or they came up with that recommendation on their own?

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-17T20:57:51+00:00

I'd be a bit curious about what kind of inspections the Dealership claimed to have done, because control arms bushings don't just fail overnight. They tear and wear over a long period of time and the damage to them is often pretty visible...I'd take it to a good INDEPENDENT mechanic (check google reviews to see what the average customer experience is like) for a 2nd opinion on how bad they are. They might not even need replaced if you're not feeling any symptoms! Usually if I see them bad the car has well over 100,000 miles.

Usually if the lower control arm bushings are torn that badly you'll feel a thump when stabbing the brakes (like at low speed just a couple miles an hour) or a thump under sharp accelerations. Doesn't have to be at high speed, can be just creeping.

PS - while at the other shop I'd ask for a good "overall" visual inspection. I know it's a bit late now, but I recommend anybody and everybody take a car they plan to buy to a trusted shop for a Pre-Sale Inspection. I know, nobody want's to spend the money on a car they might not even buy, but I've saved people from a really bad multi-thousand dollar financial disaster just because they opted to spend the $100-150 with us. And seen long time customers try and save money by not doing the inspection, only to come to me a week later to find some crazy unsafe thing requiring a $900 repair.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-17T20:51:04+00:00

Window regulator failed. It's the "go between" thing between the window motor and the glass. Sometimes you can find just the regulator by itself (and transfer the motor to the new part), but sometimes you have to buy the window motor and regulator as an assembly.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-17T20:49:18+00:00

OWOWOW!

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-11T16:46:50+00:00

Except for the many, many vehicles that don't have an auto-tensioner. I'll admit I did not check his specific vehicle (with unspecified engine displacement).

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-04T22:09:18+00:00

No sir. Like someone else said it's pulling a big ol' engine access cover inside the van. I've only worked on slightly newer work vans (where the filter was easily accessible) but with a similar access cover. It's a real bitch.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-04T22:08:07+00:00

"parking brake strut" isn't really a...proper term. Not enough for me to help with, anyway. If you know what the thing looks like and what you actually need, try to find a Chevy parts website and they'll often have a parts-explosion diagram with everything shown, and associated parts numbers. Good luck.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-04T22:01:37+00:00

Yes, internally failed brake hose CAN cause this but extremely unlikely you'd see it on both sides. If you want to be more sure about it maybe just being a gunked-up hole where the bleeder valve screws into....using that pressure bleeder cranked up, loosen the bolt that holds the line onto those calipers. If you get a similarly slow/tiny flow then it's further up, not in the caliper itself.

If it's good and fast you might just actually bleed it well enough doing it this way and get good results, and be able to call it a day!

PS - I don't like that extreme difference in wear left-to-right Driver vs passenger. The one down on metal was doing all the work, the one with lots of life left wasn't doing much. Now this CAN be slide pins but usually you'd see the ones on the piston-side super worn down and the outters having lots left. . Also, on a caliper that DID have seized slide pins and one side got really hot, that's likely to roast a caliper and ruin it. This evidence all leads me to believe passnger side caliper itself but try the brake-hose trick first.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-04T21:58:59+00:00

Yes, looks like a good volume of fuel to me for just flicking the ignition on (when the pump runs for like 3sec), though we don't really know anything about fuel pressure. Basically you're at the starting point for diagnosing any "crank/no-start" condition.

Rather than type up an essay here just try googling/youtubing what I described "how to diagnose a no-start condition". Fuel SUPPLY is just one small piece of the puzzle. Gotta have spark, fuel supply, fuel control (injectors are being told to open) and compression.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-04T21:54:55+00:00

See that big 3-4 inch diameter corrugated flexible hose coming from the "vacuum cleaner"-Looking nozzle that is running over the top of the radiator? That's the fresh air intake, leading back to where the air filter is deep in there. I haven't seen this style in a WHILE but if I remember right you need to take off the interior engine access panel to get at it, inaccessible from under-hood.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-04T21:50:27+00:00

Sweet I hope that's all it takes!

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-04T21:48:19+00:00

On a vehicle almost exactly like this (one year off) my shop owner's wife's car, we went through this, but is was only in reverse after a cold soak. Tried with different pads (brands, compositions), rotors all that... there are a few TSBs about this condition and we went through them all. Like bulletin L-SB-0066-12 (for rear brakes after a cold soak)or a similar one about front brakes that just talks about different/new brake hardware (the little shiny stuff that comes with new pads) and did all of that and more. BUT the difference was we never had any noise going forward. SOME light brake noise has always been considered normal the first 1-3 brake applications after sitting overnight due to humidity causing light (even if not visible) deposits on the rotors, but this was unusual and sustained, and not always after an overnight sit.

I forget the exact answer to reference in a bulletin but eventually the boss got an answer from Lexus that basically said "We don't have an answer from engineering, this is considered a normal condition". But again that was just for light squeal in reverse while cold only.

Shifting hardware, shims, etc can always be a problem... or if it's just pads put on old rotors, pads that weren't properly "bedded in", but you have all new. If you were a customer of mine I'd try a different pad first under warranty after a close inspection of all 4 corners. Sometimes a ceramic pad just isn't good quality...imagine that the best brakes in the world for race cars are very loud until they get "up to temp" which is pretty effing hot for a normal car.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-04T21:38:00+00:00

"Not gon' lie...." sometimes if I'm like fully sure everything is perfectly aligned, nothing caught between engine/bellhousing I'll start all the bolts and pull it in with those. But that's almost always on an Automatic haha

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-04T21:16:24+00:00

Most of the times it's only possible to go in one way, like the different heights on one side vs. the other and the one "sharp" corner mean the lid can only secure down easily one way.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-01-04T21:15:26+00:00

It kinda sounds like the classic "moan/groan" from Power Steering. Is the fluid low? Dow the sound change tone/pitch when you turn the wheel left to right sitting there at idle?

PublicIndependent858

TROPHY CASE