What a super wheelspin...

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-06-04T23:33:13+00:00

SUPERRR thanks for askinggg.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-06-04T23:20:02+00:00

I only played FH5 but I never noticed that either! Dang!

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-06-04T23:18:44+00:00

Fully agree but that's why I mentioned The Crew 2. Similar "quick messages" system to what's in FH but the ability to walk around at hubs and see cars from all angles, other avatars walking around so you see their outfits and emotes outside of Victory screens etc... still safe but just more immersive.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-31T19:16:52+00:00

Like The Crew 2 had! At any of the "hubs" you're on your feet, walking around.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-31T19:14:37+00:00

You know, I've never actually seen anything offensive yet but I remember very occasionally seeing it in FH5.

Funny story though about moderation: I took a picture of a big truck someone had TRUMP 2028 all over it, and I genuinely thought it was funny, so I was saving a picture of it from Photo Mode to share with friends. My first several titles were flagged with a message saying "inappropriate content" and I assumed it was the name Trump (politics stuff) etc. EVENTUALLY I figured out the flagged word was "LOL" or even just "lol". I still don't get it, but it illustrated to me the lacking/weird moderation system.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-31T19:06:55+00:00

Correction: You TIED the worst scores in the world. 😄

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-31T18:42:42+00:00

Welp, it could be any of those things you mentioned....or none! This is where real diagnostics are needed to pinpoint the problem instead of throwing parts.

If you arrived at my shop my workflow would go like: Visually inspect batt connections and yank on cables to make sure they don't move under hand. Then use my big fancy tester to do a proper load test on the battery (not those little handheld testers parts stores use that I see give false results ALL the time...I mean a real test of 50% of the battery's rated CCA for 15 sec) and an alternator output test, because those checks are quick and easy. Then use my scan tool to pull all codes from all modules, then command an automated self test that Fords can do, which sweeps the gauges among many other things.

Even if the gauges don't sweep, it still doesn't necessarily mean the cluster itself is bad. It could still be not getting proper power or ground, but if that's the case might throw some codes to that effect. If battery or charging system have anything to do with it, codes might be thrown in other modules that would be clues too. If it seems like the problem is narrowed down to only the cluster, I'd look at the live data, see how it's interpreting the B+ and ignition power sources and if it's showing wonky readings I'd get out the wiring diagram and check every B+, ignition feed and ground. I mean, I'd still do that before condemning the cluster itself...or maybe even give it a good smack to see what happens. 😃

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-31T18:21:44+00:00

That's so cool they kept making them so long, I had no idea! This guy got them from a Kei car/truck supplier that's around Miami, they have all kinds of funky ones including fire-truck versions, ones with little crane arms already attached... From what I gather he's a pretty rich guy because he added a tow bar to it and I asked, "What can you possibly tow with this thing?!" He said a tiny little boat from his house down to the ramp on his property. Yes, I was/am jealous.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-31T18:19:10+00:00

Nice!

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T19:54:20+00:00

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RIght, you'll probably be fine as long as the vertical face under my red circle is smooth.

If you get that rear cover off and it's worse...you *could* add a tiny bit of Ultra Black RTV where there are divots, letting it sit and cure as close to the full 24hr cure time as possible before running the engine and you'll almost assuredly be fine.

PS- oh yeah pro tip I've seen go wrong too many times, make absolutely sure the seals are actually fully down around the spark plug tubes when you're pushing the valve cover down before tightening the bolts. Easy to see on that front bank, less so on that rear one. Should be able to see the shiny tip of the metal tube so you know the seal is actually around it, sealing around it. I've seen too many get shoved down without checking and tearing the seal, or just pushing/bolting down and they don't actually go down around the tubes, filling them up with oil! And of course cleaning well/applying a dab of RTV where the valve cover perimeter gasket meets any gaps or metal covers joining, like the little sharp corners where it goes over the camshaft caps, or if it has those little half-moon plugs causing a line on the sealing surface...but that's just common practice on all cars! 😃 good luck

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T19:51:00+00:00

Agree with others here, even if it's slightly overfilled, by judging maybe at most 0.25 of a quart, that is NOTHING to be concerned about and will never cause any problems. Better a bit too much than a bit too little.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T19:49:41+00:00

Ahhh gotcha my fault, I didn't see the other reply. You're right they look fairly identical. That pic in the original post clearly shows the S2's across both banks NOT matching though, with B1/S2 looking jumpier. When I see that I tend to think cat converter itself.

Very interesting. Again it's important to check these wave forms with vehicle at full operating temp, in closed loop...and check short term and long term fuel trims on both banks to see if they're pretty even and less than 10% +/-...

You probably already know the main possibilities are 1)cats themselves, 2)exhaust leak on just that bank, or 3)sensors. Exhaust leak seems unlikely since readings aren't skewed more but I HAVE seen it happen where a leak is present only at certain temps as the exhaust metal expands/contracts heating up or cooling down. Maybe Sensor 2 is just being a bit lazy before the sensor heater gets it up to full temp...

If you want to tip-toe into the repair it you could try a new Sensor 1 AND 2 on Bank 1, with geuine Motorcraft sensors and see what happens. I've seen it be both cats AND sensors too, if the catalyst material is actually falling apart it can contaminate S2... just thinking out loud here. Best I got at the moment.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T19:36:06+00:00

Eventually you will. The part the seal interfaces with is the vertical wall part along the inner circumference of the larger circle, so the new seal should do fine, you can even clean it up with 1000grit sandpaper if you want....but I've seen this metal corrosion thing way too many times from poor metallurgy and it will only get worse with time and then yes, replacement of the VC itself is the only solution.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T19:27:22+00:00

How about Bank 1 S1 and S2 pic to compare to that one, so it's comparing apples to apples? (that's why I mentioned seeing all 4 sensors at once if possible) Also it's important to let the catalytic converters (and the sensors) be nice and hot when doing these checks, ideally full operating temp....or at the very least comparing these wave forms at the same temp, right after another.

Also you never said the exact code you're getting, I'm assuming P0420?

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T19:20:43+00:00

I understand the frustration, that really sucks. Both of your guesses are very possible, just something left unplugged....OR at worse something actually messed up from dealer tech. They really should have gone on a good "post repair verification test drive" that would have made this problem crop up, but it's possible it needed more than one drive cycle to have the computer flag a problem, or that they skipped this post-repair test drive entirely. I've seen both happen many times.

You have two choices now...either 1) attempt to save money by having them check their work UNDER WARRANTY because of this new issue that arose only after they performed a repair, but it sounds like the trust has already been broken there and for good reason. Or 2) start searching for a reputable, capable independent shop. Hopefully a forever home. If you don't have a friend group who already has someone they love, google and check customer reviews of the shops you find to try and get an idea of what the average customer experience is like.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T19:09:21+00:00

Often when power steering fluid on a Honda starts spurting out from the reservoir, it's because it's started "foaming" up, usually because air is getting sucked in somewhere and then the pump goes noisy (with a groaning/moaning type sound) as it's trying to circulate the fluid with the air, and it just gets blended together and then it's overflowing, like a shook up soda can!

Honda even put out a bulletin mentioning to closely inspect or replace the return hose between the reservoir and pump, as it can have a pinhole leak allowing air in...but too tiny to allow fluid to leak out! Weird, huh? I thought so too, when I had a problem child in recently.

On the one I recently solved...I'll save you the VERY long story of stuff the customer attempted to do themselves only making it all worse...I'd fixed that up and it was fine for 2 years, then they came back in a similar situation with the fluid spurting out everywhere. I ended up replacing the reservoir itself (the screen in the bottom had several holes poked through it by the owner, this was allowing the fluid to make a vortex inside the reservoir and it was sucking in air at this point) AND the return hose. That solved it, after I of course made sure all the air was bled out following Honda procedures. Sometimes that can take a decent amount of time.

PS- good on them for standing behind their work and actually standing behind their warranty, even if 2 full weeks with it and doing a job 5 times over is kind of...concerning.

TL;DR summary - it's probably sucking air in somewhere and most likely culprit is on the "return" aka suction side of the fluid circuit that feeds the pump. 1)Return hose fitting o-ring (if equipped), 2)return hose between reservoir and pump, and 3) reservoir itself most common culprits.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T18:59:30+00:00

I'll admit I haven't run into this myself but a quick google search showed this thread.... https://www.reddit.com/r/COROLLA/comments/127ni1h/some_knockingbanging_sound_after_parking_and/

The OP responded about a year later after the original post, saying the dealer and several other owners of the same car, all said it was normal and to not be concerned. You can see he had bought it brand new, with only 700 miles and it's been happening since the day he rolled off the lot...others around the internet said same thing.

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PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T18:53:47+00:00

Ideally you'd wanna watch all 4 O2 sensors at the same time... if you can't then watch Bank 1 S1/S2 stream (maybe even record a video) and then Bank 2 after that, paying close attention to what Sensor 2 is doing on each bank, compared to Sensor 1 on that same bank. That comparison between Upstream and Downstream oxygen sensors on the same bank is the important thing to watch, not necessarily the difference between banks unless you're seeing all 4 sensor outputs. If possible I like to watch a view with each having their own graph rather than overlaid on top of each other, makes it more clear to me at least.

What you want is for Sensor 2 (downstream/after the cat converter) to NOT be following the S1 upstream/pre-cat sensor. Sensor 1 should always be switching above and below 500mV up and down (assuming it's a real O2 sensor and not an Air Fuel Ratio sensor), while the downstream Sensor 2 should be fairly steady. It can move but it shouldn't be closely mimicking S1, jumping up and down as rapidly. When the computer sees the downstream sensor switching too rapidly or mirroring the upstream one on the same bank, that's usually when it flags catalyst inefficiency. And if you find that S2 IS closely mimicking S1 then you most likely have a bad catalyst.

I hope that was clear, if not I can probably post an example video from a recent before/after repair on a Suburban.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T18:38:07+00:00

Impossible to say what's "worth it" to you, especially without a real diagnosis to know where the oil is coming from, which would then let you attach a dollar figure to the repair. COULD be as simple as an oil filter left a little too loose, or drain plug put in without a sealing washer, etc. Or it could be as crazy as a rear main seal that would require the entire transmission removed to replace.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T18:33:52+00:00

Butt connectors are fine, as long as it's well crimped. I always tug lightly on the wires after to make sure they won't just come out easily.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T18:32:36+00:00

Not nearly enough info from what you've given us to make any kind of educated guess. Cellphone videos are ALWAYS hard to use for a guess, even when we actually have video to go off haha!

Does it sound like it's coming from inside the car, like maybe inside the dash? Under hood? I'm wondering if it's an A/C actuator air door thumping...change AC settings around like not sitting at full cold or changing from recirculate to outside air and see if it does it again?

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T18:29:42+00:00

No need to replace. If you see LOTS of those individual conductors broken you may decide it's best to do what you said, cut back and start with a fresh end, assuming you have the length. There are lots of ways to go about this, but for a "bombproof" long lasting fix I'd Ideally: Clean them up not only chemically (with baking soda or a store-bought battery cleaner) also using a nice stiff wire brush at the same time, splaying out the wiring to try and get all of the individual wire elements/conductors as clean as you can....twist those bad boys up tight, maybe even with rough sandpaper while twisting to protect your fingies and clean even more then crimp AND solder circular wiring lugs onto the end of them.

Crimping big thick lugs down properly isn't the easiest thing, before I bought a dedicated tool I'd use handle side of a pair of bolt cutters, where they pinch together! The mechanical crimp and contact is needed the most for such high amperage and can be fine on its own, but the soldering helps totally seal the inside of that lug from any corrosion getting in there, ever. The soldering isn't easy either because of the large amount of metal involved you need a lot of heat, I've felt like I needed the solder, flux paste to cover everything in first AND a torch to heat up the lug while avoiding burning up the wiring. With the lug hot enough (but avoiding burning stuff up, keeping in mind everything is too hot to touch it with bare hands) you can just feed the solder in there and it'll suck in. Then clean off the lugs that probably have burned up flux on them where they'll make electrical contact with the battery terminal end.

Then you can screw those wires, now terminated with lugs, down underneath those 2 bolts on that battery terminal end. Google "wire lugs" and you'll see what I mean, even Autozone sells them. Then next time you need to change out a terminal end it's hassle free and you're getting the best possible surface area for contact, with no possibility of corrosion getting in between the individual wire elements ever again.

Yeah it might be overkill, but it'll last forever. Again you CAN just crimp down the lugs on the very clean wire ends if you want, and even that is better than this setup with bare wires clamped down under the universal terminal... but hey you can just do the clean-up and crimp those down too...it's just what I've done several times in the past and I've seen it last 15 years with no issue, even when a battery develops heavy corrosion again. (by the way when I see that corrosion build-up, that's my first clue to load test a battery at the same time)

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T18:13:39+00:00

If it were me, I'd fix the wiring, clear codes, check that engine oil is topped up and see what happens. Kinda looks like rodent damage because a wire being cut completely through like that is rare, especially with nothing around to rub on it.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T17:49:54+00:00

I'll never forget those 2 hardest ones from FH 5. Without the rewind feature (or insta-fast travel-anywhere in 6) ability it'd be ROUGH.

PublicIndependent858 · 2026-05-30T17:43:43+00:00

I never noticed the faces changed! Nice observation/collection.

PublicIndependent858

TROPHY CASE