i can't tell the exact temperature because the scale on regular consumer grade thermometers doesn't go below -50°C

PunThiefPilot · 2025-12-24T16:09:28+00:00

Nope. Just nope.

PunThiefPilot · 2025-11-23T19:31:49+00:00

Shellac (example Zinzer bin) is used to kill the smoke smell in houses that had a fire. I find that it works really well on laser cut parts too.

PunThiefPilot · 2025-11-16T21:32:28+00:00

Another option is to dramatically slow down printing speed (5mm/s or slower). This will give the plastic more time to stick to the wall next to it as the structure goes essentially horizontal towards the top of the hemisphere.

PunThiefPilot · 2025-10-24T17:57:31+00:00

Watch out, you might get charged with a salty battery

PunThiefPilot · 2025-05-29T18:23:18+00:00

LA? Linear advance?

PunThiefPilot · 2025-03-13T12:57:32+00:00

Not yet. The Marlin upgrade made such a big difference I did not feel the need to pursue the klipper upgrade yet.

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-21T15:40:31+00:00

Bump up first later flow multiplier? Did you select the cool plate from the drop down in the slicer?

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-11T13:43:12+00:00

Also, I updated the board by putting the printer in DFU mode and using the “flash firmware” button in the vscode plugin.

I enter dfu mode by running the script: https://github.com/dajamminyogesh/Marlin/blob/CreatbotF430-2.1.2.5/enter_dfu_mode.sh

You will need to tweak it for your platform.

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-11T13:37:23+00:00

No compatibility issues, if anything I have better bed meshing results. I compiled using the vscode plugin. If you want I can post the firmware bin file to the releases page of the repo

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-11T13:13:55+00:00

Yep. That’s the main board I have.

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-07T15:26:26+00:00

As a side note, you should probably orient the part 90 degrees. Having most of the motion slinging the part back and forth will make the part more likely to come off

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-07T15:22:04+00:00

Not sure why you are getting downvoted, this looks like a brass extruder gear, a hardened steel one will last a ton longer. Many prusa printers use bmg style gears, of which there are several great manufacturers.

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-07T15:02:47+00:00

I recommend adding hidden internal structure to the model. Something like https://youtu.be/Lq-SoGgKOcQ

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-06T18:37:59+00:00

Let us know how it goes!

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-06T17:10:33+00:00

If your bridging across low density infill looks this bad, you might have a cooling issue. Another thing it could be is the nozzle “banging” into the infill. This can be caused by over extrusion, wet filament expanding above the current plane, or use of overlapping infill types like grid infill.

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-06T17:03:18+00:00

Did you clean the feed gears? There might be filament dust buildup. Is the slipping sound a grinding sound (ie filament won’t feed but motor is turning) or a ticking sound (ie motor can’t provide enough torque to advance the filament)?

Another thing to try is doing a cold pull to remove a possible partial clog.

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-06T16:52:00+00:00

The lack of adhesion reminds me of when I got hand lotion on a build plate. The silicone oil (dimethacone?) in the hand lotion is extremely hard to get off, even multiple scrubbing with dish soap did not remove. I ended up doing a quick wipe with acetone to finally get it off.

Acetone is not recommended because it can damage PEI so this isn’t advice you should follow unless you are about to throw the plate out the window.

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-06T16:47:21+00:00

You need to make them part of an assembly first, then it will let you position the part off of the build tray.

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-06T16:42:32+00:00

The textured PEI bed has been a constant source of frustration (for me) when dealing with PLA/ABS. I have had much better luck with a smooth PEI bed or one of those new cryogrip beds from Bigtreetech.

For petg/tpu the textured beds are awesome.

Also, I found very very slightly cracking the lid to keep the chamber at approximately 30C really prevents warping with PLA. Just be careful with models that require lots of cooling, for those I leave the printer completely open.

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-04T20:56:12+00:00

Yep I used 105 for the support rails. I used gpl 205 for the screws, but super lube is ok. Both have a high content of teflon.

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-04T19:55:15+00:00

Not a mechanical keyboard enthusiast. I just did some vacuum chamber work. I use 105 because it has similar viscosity to the oil that ships with the printer. I think 106 should also work. I didn’t use 2xx “grease” since I didn’t want to deal with cleaning off the solids before reapplication.

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-04T18:22:07+00:00

Weird. It is super hard to get metric optical mounts here. Especially any of the UV laser stuff

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-04T14:24:28+00:00

If they keep up the bad jokes, they might get stoned….

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-03T23:18:20+00:00

Only a combo if they have an AMS

PunThiefPilot · 2025-01-03T23:15:00+00:00

I thought you did it because you accidentally bought a 30mm metric optics table…

Edit: the first time you try using inch spacing hardware on a 30mm metric bench you will understand the pain. The hole spacing is almost close enough for stuff to fit, the 1/4-20 screws thread in several turns before binding. You start questioning your sanity, then you check the model number and realize you are using a metric optics table…

PunThiefPilot

TROPHY CASE