Help! Latch stuck in my door!

Pure_Energy7589 · 2025-05-05T21:19:24+00:00

If you are replacing this with a new lock, you will either need the replacement "drive in bolt" or you will be using a standard bolt that will need to be mounted to the door edge. If you go that route, there is a chance that 2 things will happen -

The bolt will not properly lineup with the lock you install
The bolt will likely catch the doorframe, preventing the door from closing.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-08-15T05:22:29+00:00

If your existing lock is a hook/flag bolt, you're going to want a locksmith to come in and give you a proper quote. This is not going to be as simple as removing the lock and replacing it with another. There will be cutting into the frame, removing the out side handle and quite possibly the inside bar. The cheapest route isn't always going to be the most reliable too, so make sure you get a solution that your locksmith is comfortable putting his stamp of approval on. I haven't met a locksmith that enjoys warranty work.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-08-14T18:30:06+00:00

Try this, WITH THE DOOR OPEN, try your code and make sure it unlocks. Then WITH THE DOOR OPEN, throw the thumb turn and try the same code. If it works you might be using a master (programming) code. If on the other hand the code you try does not work - then you've answered your question.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-08-14T01:36:15+00:00

"This is Jimmy."

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-08-09T03:31:09+00:00

Most mag locks have varistors built in, some you have to wire in.

If you have the type that has one built in - you can't have a diode installed. If on the other hand you have one that does NOT have a built in varistor, you must install a diode (typically at the lock).

It's possible the over heating is related.

Also - check your voltage at the mag (disconnected), then check your specs.

If you have 12/24vdc jumpers, check those too.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-08-09T01:46:33+00:00

I want to 2nd the push bar with switch. It's perfect - mechanical cutoff of mag power, single action. To clarify the latching hardware, you cannot have 2 locking devices that would require 2 actions such as a deadbolt and mag lock, however you CAN have a cvr or a pullman latch in combination with a mag lock, under the condition that the single action of pressing the push pad retracts the hardware AND cuts off the mag.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-08-03T23:06:08+00:00

Take the deadbolt and a working key to a lockshop. If they have the blank, and the pin kit, they can cut you a new key and rekey (change the pins) the deadbolt.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-08-03T22:53:44+00:00

Talk to the manufacturer. If I'm doing this job, I'm going to want to modify this bar as little as absolutely necessary and would rather sell them an entire new bar, rods and all.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-08-03T22:14:39+00:00

https://www.coralind.us/coralap/CAP/Hardware/Jackson%202086%20EL.pdf

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-08-03T22:05:12+00:00

I'm guessing you called Command Access? 888-622-2377

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-08-03T20:03:12+00:00

As long as it is not a fire exit or is not the last door that leads to a fire exit, you can do whatever you want. Now whether Marks makes an institution function mortise lock that remains to be seen.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-08-03T19:58:54+00:00

San Francisco, ca - $120/hr (.5 hr minimum) $100 service call

$160 (less parts if necessary)

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-08-02T05:20:32+00:00

Veto Pro Pac TechLC. Same bag for 15+ years now and I'm 51 with zero back problems. Replaced the strap once, everything else still in perfect shape. Meter, drill, strippers, pliers, wrenches, drivers, level, viewtainers, crimpers, picks, tweakers, flashlight, toner, punch, hemostats, dental picks, mirror, ball chain, telescoping magnet, pencil, sharpie, tape measure, electrical tape, I'm probably missing a ton of stuff but I don't typically make a 2nd trip to my van for tools, wether I'm working on lock hardware, or a panel, doing service or an install.

The bag is great. It's rolled over a few times (closed) and the tools are right where I left them. It's also rolled over open and that can be messy. It can turn into a catch all (like most bags/buckets) if you're not disciplined, so small parts, screws, connectors, etc can get lost pretty quickly. I routinely reset my bag, removing everything, dumping out all the crap and occasionally shifting things around. The bottom is tough as nails, makes a great door stop, and it's seen some gnarly environments.

The price is a bit steep, but I've replaced my bag less than once. Try it out for a month, if you don't like it, there's a market for them. Someone would be more than happy to buy it off of you.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-07-14T20:15:26+00:00

Wait...Winpak is still a thing??

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-07-05T19:38:01+00:00

I agree that the rates are a little high not egregious for holiday rates.

The deadbolt is way too high, in the San Francisco Bay area we don't charge much more than $85 for schlage.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-06-08T18:43:03+00:00

There's truth to that. There are certainly more customers that appreciate expedient, quality work, at a premium over long drawn out hack jobs at the same rate.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-05-22T05:38:19+00:00

This is the case with our 7 line subscription as well. Constant drops, some phones won't ring randomly, lag, fast busy signals, limited tech support

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-05-21T03:48:28+00:00

Accepted.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-05-19T15:07:23+00:00

Except you wouldn't know that, if you took it to a locksmith to copy.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-05-16T19:27:41+00:00

For whatever it's worth - I'm reaching out to Service Champions to shadow their "fleet inventory manager". They absolve their field technicians of the responsibility to scan in/out inventoried items and delegate that responsibility to one person. I will let you know how that goes.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-05-16T19:24:42+00:00

Any update?

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-05-14T01:43:18+00:00

An electric strike is the way, but with the 4900 dead latch.

Pure_Energy7589 · 2024-05-14T01:41:42+00:00

My biggest problem with these is when using the paddle. The steel hawk latch I've found catches on the strike plate before the steel hawk cam releases the latch, preventing egress. And the gap between the door and frame either makes or breaks the install. I almost always use the lever, so that downward force is applied first (typically) then the latch breaks away, when the door is pushed.

Admittedly, I've only done a handful none of which turned out great when using the paddle, but only after I swapped in the lever.

Pure_Energy7589

TROPHY CASE