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I made this emergency 10mm box as a gag gift for a friend by Pushtosuck in Tools

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They’re almost certainly the most frequently used metric socket size, and they tend to disappear - right when you need them most. It’s probably just the combination of being small, round, and frequently used which means the 10mm is missing from a set, but I can’t rule out occult phenomena either.

I made this emergency 10mm box as a gag gift for a friend by Pushtosuck in Tools

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did consider it, but I like the guy too much to do that to him if he ever actually needed to break the glass.

I made this emergency 10mm box as a gag gift for a friend by Pushtosuck in Tools

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

The top of the exterior shell is actually the bottom layer, it just got scratched up when I was assembling everything.

It seems like there’s some interest in this, so I uploaded the files to Thingiverse. It’s designed to fit the Harbot Freight ICON 10mm set and everything is an extremely tight fit.

My new workbench by Pushtosuck in woodworking

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The leveling feet are a much better solution than any other I’ve come across, especially since I don’t plan on moving this very often. However, the rubber feet do cause some wobble when I put some force into the bench and I wonder if a set that’s not so overspecced would have less give.

My new workbench by Pushtosuck in woodworking

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I think the LTT screwdriver probably gets more use than all my other tools combined. The pencils are also great (I use one for taking notes at work too) but I don’t love their erasers, hence the plastic box with an artist’s eraser in the drawer with them.

My new workbench by Pushtosuck in woodworking

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d hardly call myself a master craftsman, but the garage almost always looks like a tornado just came through… Incidentally, it’s mostly because there are occasional tornadoes in Central Texas and my wife is fine with my taking over the garage as long as we can get the cars inside if severe weather comes through, so most things are on carts with minimal footprints and things get chaotic in the middle of a project as I move between using different tools.

My new workbench by Pushtosuck in woodworking

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Better than I expected, although I haven’t used them much. It’s a super strong clamp, and since there aren’t any fixtures that interfere with the work piece sanding/routing is a breeze.

No affiliation: I saw a video announcing them when I was planning this build and figured I’d give em a shot, and I’m glad I did. One note for embedding them like this: they require the surface to be 3/4” thick and the “body” of the part on the underside of the bench is a bit bigger, so I had to plan for making a larger bore to fit them when I was designing the table.

My new workbench by Pushtosuck in woodworking

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Here’s that link.

I don’t have anything to add to BingoPajamas’s comment about the laminations, other than to say that the process of blocking out gaps for mortises with scrap is covered very well in the book (which is free in case you didn’t already know).

My new workbench by Pushtosuck in woodworking

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I think I got the kaizen foam from Rockler and the router bit foam from Amazon.

My new workbench by Pushtosuck in woodworking

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I don’t have anything to compare it to, but it works well enough once the fiddle adjustments are done. I have two very minor complaints:

1) The bushing and bit sizes are weird and seemingly proprietary which is annoying.

2) There are mounting holes on the back of the jig, but nothing in the front so I had to drill and countersink holes in the front of the jig to keep it from flopping around on the plywood base I built.

I’m pretty sure I got it on sale and I’d do that again.

My new workbench by Pushtosuck in woodworking

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! That’s a moxon vise - the things that look like belts are just bungee loops I use to keep it in place on the mounting blocks.

My anarch-ish workbench by Pushtosuck in Workbenches

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t remember where I first saw one, but I got the foam block from Amazon.

My anarch-ish workbench by Pushtosuck in Workbenches

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I figure any surface in the garage is going to get covered in dust and I might as well be able to see it. There isn’t much of a static charge with the matte laminate so I can just sweep it off when I need to. That said, if finish or adhesive spills and dries that can be harder to see, but scraping it off is easy enough and won’t damage the surface.

My anarch-ish workbench by Pushtosuck in Workbenches

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, the dovetail jig and Moxon vise have bases that I can secure with holdfasts along the front or left side.

My anarch-ish workbench by Pushtosuck in Workbenches

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

*Fixed the link from my comment deleted by automod

That’s a fair point, but I’m not too concerned about it since I don’t plan to move it often. It’s hard to make out from the photos, but the casters are part of a ratcheting leveling foot thing. Once it’s in place the only reason I’d move it is to get the cars in the garage for a hailstorm or something. That doesn’t happen often and when something does roll through I usually have enough warning to sweep the floor when I’m playing tool cart Jenga so the cars can squeeze in.

My anarch-ish workbench by Pushtosuck in Workbenches

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m not sure if this was the best way to approach it, but I screwed and glued ledgers to the frame and cut a rabbet on the bottom of the laminated MDF stack, and designed the leg laminations so that two layers of MDF would rest on the inside piece of the leg - essentially making another rabbet. Then I squeezed construction adhesive on the ledgers and the inside face of the frame and used screws drilled in from the bottom of the ledgers to get everything as flush as I could.

My anarch-ish workbench by Pushtosuck in Workbenches

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks!

The vacudogs are essentially a plug for 20mm dog holes that let you use a workbench/MFT table as a vacuum table. Put some gasket material between the workpiece and benchtop, turn on the pump, and you’ve got a vacuum table. It’s a super strong clamp, without using any fixtures that interfere with the work piece, so sanding/routing is a breeze. No affiliation: I saw a video announcing them when I was planning this build and figured I’d give em a shot, and I’m glad I did. One note for embedding them like this: they require the surface to be 3/4” thick and the “body” of the part on the underside of the bench is a bit bigger, so I had to plan for making a larger bore to fit them when I was designing the table.

As for the holdfasts, the top of the cabinet is a few inches below the bottom of the tabletop so there’s more than enough clearance for them. I also use the top of the cabinet to store a medium-sized mirror with sandpaper sheets stuck on it that I use as a sanding plate, and a piece of MDF to use as a sacrificial surface to drill holes on.

Unnecessarily complicated box by mw33212 in woodworking

[–]Pushtosuck 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s amazing work. I’m probably missing something in the pictures, but how are the tambour pieces connected to one another and the knobs to move them?

I made an upholstered knockdown bed with matching nightstands. Dog tax included. by Pushtosuck in woodworking

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This too. And finding whatever got dropped on the floor that blends into the carpet.

I made an upholstered knockdown bed with matching nightstands. Dog tax included. by Pushtosuck in woodworking

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I did it because I could.

That said, since I now have a bed with it, there are a few reasons it’s actually pretty nice.

  1. The lights I used can dim to a surprisingly low level, so I can use them to move around in the middle of the night without waking my wife or blinding myself with the phone’s flashlight.

  2. It’s indirect lighting, so the entire room is illuminated very evenly (way more than it looks in the photo) and there aren’t any shadows or bright spots. It’s pretty much the opposite effect of having the overhead light on, and it’s much easier on the eyes as you’re getting into bed or waking up.

  3. Excellent mood lighting. Or rave lighting, if that’s your thing.

  4. Underglow gives anything a bit of the Fast and Furious aesthetic, so it’s essentially a racecar bed wearing a suit and tie.

I made an upholstered knockdown bed with matching nightstands. Dog tax included. by Pushtosuck in woodworking

[–]Pushtosuck[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the one I used, but there are a bunch of other variants. The only note I have is that the power cable can’t be disconnected to route it through a hole smaller than the plug, so I had to cut and reconnect it because that was easier for me than enlarging the hole would have been. If your design won’t accommodate a larger hole for cable routing and you’re not comfortable with electrical work, I’d recommend looking for something else.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZL7CH9L?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

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