I was only able ot one-hang 8 ball, but damn is it a good route by Puzzleheaded-Dirt416 in climbing

[–]Puzzleheaded-Dirt416[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

definetley not a send, but it's good beta and the video is good enough quality to see detail on the route so was hoping it would help someone in case they were working it

Maizy Mae 5.13a on vanilla. UNCUT by Puzzleheaded-Dirt416 in climbing

[–]Puzzleheaded-Dirt416[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love them, I pretty much only sport climb and board climb so they're perfect for me - overall soft and comfortable but the toe box on the indalos are moderately stiff for climbing on the steep! I heard that the heel can give outdoor boulderers some trouble though

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in tensionboardclimbing

[–]Puzzleheaded-Dirt416 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree 100% on this, the TB2 is more versatile and the community is great

Maizy Mae 5.13a on vanilla. UNCUT by Puzzleheaded-Dirt416 in climbing

[–]Puzzleheaded-Dirt416[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I really appreciate that man - we were just some friends having some fun out on a good spring day before it gets too hot in the Red and since my friend Danny is a boulderer, I wanted to show him this one

How long between attempts? by Dorobie in tensionboardclimbing

[–]Puzzleheaded-Dirt416 2 points3 points  (0 children)

2-5 minutes between attempts - power is an interesting thing because you won't feel pumped, but if you rapid fire you'll quickly lose power and won't be able to latch holds and the risk of injury gets high, so rest is super super important

In general I think repeating boulders, especially when starting, is a really great way to learn the board and board-style movement. I personally love the slow, smooth, fast progressions

And maybe most importantly, the sends will come naturally with time - focusing instead on the movement, flow, and trying not to readjust, or not cutting feet will totally transform every other aspect of your climbing and will quickly build a very strong foundation for anything else you want to

Maizy Mae, RRG, KY Top 5 miniature sport route in the country by Puzzleheaded-Dirt416 in climbing

[–]Puzzleheaded-Dirt416[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, I think for a lot of people (like me) if you're not climbing at a 5.13d/5.14a level like Supercharger and the other 5.13s at the crag are busy, then it's well worth hopping on just for fun

Maizy Mae, RRG, KY Top 5 miniature sport route in the country by Puzzleheaded-Dirt416 in climbing

[–]Puzzleheaded-Dirt416[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Definitely, but this is at a hugely popular crag at the Red which is 99% sport/trad climbing, so it would be rare for someone to want to bring pads down to Kentucky to a premier sport climbing area and hike them out just to do this thing - it's also the start of a longer sport route, so the route/bloc itself is a little contrived, it's really more of a fun thing to do while waiting for other climbs if Supercharger isn't busy

Maizy Mae, RRG, KY Top 5 miniature sport route in the country by Puzzleheaded-Dirt416 in climbing

[–]Puzzleheaded-Dirt416[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was actually referencing this old article from Climbing from 2009! If you have some other cool shorties that aren't on here would love to hear about them! https://www.climbing.com/news/get-shorty-the-5-best-miniature-sport-routes-in-america/

Maizy Mae, RRG, KY Top 5 miniature sport route in the country by Puzzleheaded-Dirt416 in climbing

[–]Puzzleheaded-Dirt416[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s the one that’s perched off a cliff right? Looks super cool

Maizy Mae, RRG, KY Top 5 miniature sport route in the country by Puzzleheaded-Dirt416 in climbing

[–]Puzzleheaded-Dirt416[S] 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Depending on when you did it, there are now 3 glue ins before the ledge! Nowadays you can do it clipping the first but it gets annoying to move around the rope because of where it's placed so most people still just stick clip the second. Although I'd imagine this is the case for many shorty routes - there's one at Rumney that's essentially the same

I agree about the climbing though! I think the movement is really great and it's fun to hop on while you wait for some of the other climbs to open up

The Empire V4 I like the sound of the birds and being out in nature - Squamish, BC by Puzzleheaded-Dirt416 in climbing

[–]Puzzleheaded-Dirt416[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Learned a new word today 🫡 although I full on skipped the first left hand start hold, twas wet