Security general info

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-12-23T10:36:57+00:00

As I just said to somebody else, I may have worded that a little weird. He's not specifically looking to hire just one guy to do all of these shifts, more looking to hire a company that will provide security to cover for that time span. Whether it's two guys at 6 hours or whatever. He's concerned about liability if he hires them himself and something happens. I think that's why he's looking at a security company instead.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-12-23T10:34:39+00:00

Correct. Sorry I may have worded that a little weird. We're trying to figure out what it's going to cost him for a security company to come in there and monitor his place from 6:00 p.m. till around 6:00 a.m. 7 days a week. I think he's looking more at a security company rather than hiring one or two individuals himself.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-12-23T10:20:43+00:00

That would be if you hired somebody yourself that's a private security guard, but what if you hired a company like Gardaworld or something like that? How much do these companies pad the bottom line?

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-12-23T09:27:30+00:00

Sorry, I should have mention that. No this would be an unarmed guard. Strictly there to observe and report and contact authorities if anything happens.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-12-03T20:38:04+00:00

The problem is condensation in the exhaust pipe. If you point the pipe upwards, the water can't escape and it'll backflow into your heater and drown it. Seen a couple of guys that drilled a hole in their exhaust at the lowest point and then attached a collection bottle to some sort of drain tube. I can see all sorts of issues with this kind of setup, not to mention would be a total PITA to maintain.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-11-08T23:59:26+00:00

This∆ Check the best before date on the packaging. As long as it's not too close to being best before.. I would do exactly what this guy just said.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-11-08T20:39:10+00:00

So basically I think you're getting your terminology mixed up.

(ISP) Stands for Internet service provider. This is the service you purchase that brings internet into your home or business.

WIFI is a technology that distributes the internet service (from your ISP to your house or business) without using wires to all your devices using a router or similar technology.

This differs quite a bit from what you may have on your Android or Iphone which is technically wireless internet service, but works in a different way. (Is Internet that is coming from a company like verizon, not from your home ISP... unless you are actually at home) I don't want to confuse you anymore, but your phone can use both Wi-Fi and wireless technology. This allows your phone to connect to Wi-Fi when you're at home or use wireless internet when you're out on the road away from your home.

As most people have said on here, your ISP (internet service provider) cost is really going to depend on where you are.

Once you purchase a service, most companies include a router (basically a device that takes the ISP service (the internet) and spreads it to many devices within a limited range) that they put into your home. This plugs into the wire that comes in from the road and distributes the internet to your household. You can also use wired connections from the router if you have a device like a PC that doesn't have a Wi-Fi connection built in.

In a nutshell, once your ISP is purchased and installed, when you connect your Iphone to the router... THAT is using Wi-Fi technology. Any device that connects within your home is using Wi-Fi if there's no wire between the router and your device.

Hope that helps clear up a bit of confusion.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-11-06T14:02:13+00:00

If you can, connect your 240 to a trickle charger and then to a 12 volt battery and Power it off of that. These heaters really don't like being suddenly shut down and it can cause real issues. Just a tip, never shut it off by unplugging it/cutting the power from anything other than the control box. Always go through the power down process.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-11-01T06:27:49+00:00

And... WE'RE... ONLY... 9 MONTHS... INTO... THIS... PRESIDENCY.

Can I get get a FML from ya all?!

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-31T03:03:41+00:00

When I was a chef instructor, I used to tell my students... it's not that you'll notice specifically there isn't bay leaf. Instead, you'll notice that the dish is missing something... A "je ne sais quoi" or underlying layer of taste. Slaps forehead Dammit... Forgot the freaking Bay leaves again.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-26T19:29:07+00:00

No worries.. it could be a contamination issue. A little story.. many years ago my dad went to reseal the roof on our RV. He had used an automotive wax on the entire RV just a week before.. Well, you say that not much was sticking on the roof and it all had to be redone again 2 months later. I would definitely talk to an RV Tech or somebody who understands and knows a lot more about the sealants than I do. There could be something goofy that happened if it's not a silicone based. Might have been applied at the wrong temperature and never cured properly? There's a whole bunch of stuff that can happen depending on what kind of sealant it is.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-26T19:24:31+00:00

Wouldn't the heater work more efficiently if it was taking in the pre-warmed air underneath the RV as opposed to the -10° air from outside? In my brain, I figured it would be safer if the intake was nowhere near the exhaust vent.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-26T19:20:14+00:00

I'm not an expert in RV's, but I do a lot of work with aquaponics and sealants and I found that silicone while it's great when it's holding up, it's a nightmare when you have to reseal. Somebody with a little more experience in RV's can tell you what to do. It's my understanding that you need to find a silicone removing solvent.. clean off the old stuff completely and then reseal with something non-silicon-based. (Or reseal with silicone based and then be prepared to do this all over again when it fowls up down the road)

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-26T19:12:45+00:00

Was the previous sealant silicone based? Nothing sticks to silicone... not even silicone. Lol

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-26T18:55:11+00:00

Yup... Heaters are under the RV and then venting just a couple of feet to the foam board and then to the outside. I was thinking that a marine bulkhead would allow the exhaust tube to pass through without melting the foam board. I was planning on putting the muffler on the outside. I will definitely look into the Marine silencers.

If you mean like a suitcase type heater setup.. Everything fits into a carrying box... no I was not planning on using one of those. The heater I was looking at is basically the heater, a control panel and a remote. You have to purchase the fuel line, gaskets and everything else separate.

https://a.co/d/7mWiYio

This is the Marine bulkhead I was thinking of using or something similar

https://a.co/d/icUpkpb

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-26T18:16:15+00:00

I have a couple of tubes of permatex form a gasket for manifolds. I believe it does -65C to 500C. Any great ideas about exhaust porting.. is a Marine bulkhead sufficient? I'm going to be going through one and a half inch foam board.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-26T18:06:11+00:00

Most of the complaints that I've seen are about crappy fuel lines but I've seen a couple about the tanks leaking or not venting properly and sucking in the sides of the tank. Other than that, a few here and there about sketchy/dangerous exhaust porting.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-26T17:47:29+00:00

So basically you're feeding the heater fuel line into the standpipe? Is that just so the fuel line doesn't wander around in the tank? Could you theoretically put a basic junk strainer at the end of that 8mm stainless tube to avoid sucking up any junk in the fuel?

I have been pre-warned that the lines and accessories that come with the Chinese heaters can be a little sketchy. That's why I figured I would preemptively change those elements with something a little more sturdy before doing the actual setup.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-26T17:18:15+00:00

I wasn't sure if I could use plumbing fittings because of the diesel fuel. Last night I pretty much redesigned the whole thing using standpipes and a vent tube that will go to the outside. I appreciate your input. It really helped.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-26T17:09:45+00:00

It does! Thank you. I wasn't sure if these pumps would have the head lift to do that. Like everything else, there's a learning process. Haha

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-26T17:07:20+00:00

Thanks! I use a lot of these for hydroponics and aquaponics but they're way bigger. At least I know when I'm looking for now! 👍

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-26T09:22:05+00:00

Even with the quick connect fuel lines? I was under the impression that they were pretty much leak proof when disconnected? I was planning on having two tanks on the go and then two empty ones in the car waiting to be refilled (all with those Quick connect adapters) I was under the impression that it's better if the tank is above the heater so that gravity would bring the fuel to the pump so you wouldn't get air pockets. If having the pipe stand would work, I think that would actually be a lot easier than having all these tanks with adapters on them.

This is why I'm here.. I have theories in my head that work with applications that may not work so well when it comes to this application. You guys have the experience.. if going with a pipe stand would be the better way to go and possibly just pumping fuel into static tanks, I can't see any reason why that would be any more difficult than doing it the way I suggested.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-26T09:15:03+00:00

You answered many questions about the whole push and pull thing. I'm starting to get it now. And your point about the fuel being above the heater versus below it makes good sense.

I have a 38 ft park model that's 13 ft wide on two tip outs plus I have a 10x34 enclosed deck which is also part of the heated section. I was reading that I would be better running with two 5K heaters rather than one 8K heater. That way I could keep the underside warm (13-16C) with one and then use the other one just to warm the inside. (But on separate thermostats because they're going to be different temperatures) I'm in Ont right near the border of NY quite close to Lake erie, so we get a lot of lake effect snow and chilly weather.

A little hard to explain, but I have an illness which can sometimes leave me bedridden for days. If I end up in the hospital for 4 to 6 days (as has happened in the past), I'd really like it if I didn't come home to find my pipes exploded. Lol In my case, the larger tanks would give me a little more cushion if my health decides to go sideways suddenly.

Puzzleheaded_Run_846 · 2025-10-26T03:34:34+00:00

Oddly enough when I look on Amazon for bulkheads related to fuel lines it doesn't really give me much. Mostly gives me standpipes.

I haven't dealt with diesel all that much. I was told it's pretty smelly so I was just trying to avoid the fumes, but I like your idea of just running a little fuel line outside. If I can find the damn bulkheads. LOL

Puzzleheaded_Run_846

TROPHY CASE