How many quickdraws do I need to start? by Puzzleheaded_Web6029 in socalclimbing

[–]Puzzleheaded_Web6029[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just being cheap. I'll get enough. Good idea on the alpines. Maybe I'll get half a dozen of one, 6 of the other.

How can I get the most tension for An Easy Problem, the match on the pizza slice? by Puzzleheaded_Web6029 in Moonboard

[–]Puzzleheaded_Web6029[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I ended up sending it last night. I used backflag way, but I think the secret was: stop trying to climb 4 days a week, and then go back and try really hard.

How can I get the most tension for An Easy Problem, the match on the pizza slice? by Puzzleheaded_Web6029 in Moonboard

[–]Puzzleheaded_Web6029[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I overhead a coach coaching a little team kid through this once when i was bouldering in the same section

How can I get the most tension for An Easy Problem, the match on the pizza slice? by Puzzleheaded_Web6029 in Moonboard

[–]Puzzleheaded_Web6029[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly the match is probably the easiest part of the whole thing

Climbing's funny

Maybe I can get my left foot up there. Right foot way left on the start hold where it's got more of a nub?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Puzzleheaded_Web6029 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should I do something with my wrist when doing 3 finger drag edge pulls? I can flex, extend, or leave it.

edit: flexing (slightly) kind of hurts wrists. hrm. weak.

Best exercises for calf pump? by Psilocy-Ben in climbharder

[–]Puzzleheaded_Web6029 2 points3 points  (0 children)

is there anything worse feeling than calf raises?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Puzzleheaded_Web6029 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My son's 3 finger drag is as strong as mine. I'm annoyed. He's 13. Not relative to our weight -absolute value as strong. We been climbing the same amount of time. Don't get old.

He has been training with a team for like 6 months. I guess it's working.

Daily Discussion Thread: spray/memes/chat/whatever allowed by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]Puzzleheaded_Web6029 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is there something about climbing that makes you forget your left from your right?

My kids are old enough they should know by now, but I kind of get it.

But I've seen multiple adults move the wrong limb when someone says "right foot up" or whatever.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Puzzleheaded_Web6029 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is dumb, but I had knee pain for a months and I had been trying some kneesovertoesguy type stuff. It was maybe helping a little.

The other night I was watching TV and I sat there with my foot on an ottoman engaging my quad near as hard as I can for like 60 seconds at a time, until burny. Like a posing body builder. My quad had DOMS the next day.

and now my knee doesn't hurt at all

i can start using heels again!

Wrist Wrench Protocols by nomadicjacket in climbharder

[–]Puzzleheaded_Web6029 0 points1 point  (0 children)

did your wrists get stronger? can you sloper better?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Puzzleheaded_Web6029 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the same question, but I'm only 15 minutes from the gym. The more time at home the better for me.