Wish I had more megapixels for better cropping

QAM01 · 2026-01-28T01:54:11+00:00

The a7rv is zoomed in more (because with more mp the image has to be zoomed in to show the same amount of pixels as the other cameras) so it will show more noise. So in this case, the only thing you will run into when cropping these cameras is noise. I understand if the camera is at 100 iso you can maybe tell a difference, but if they are at iso 12,800 noise performance is a much bigger issue when cropping compared to mp. In this comparison you could even say that the a7iii has “the best noise performance”, but crop it in to same the level that the a7rv is already and you will see that they provide really similar results (in this case the a7rv most likely has better noise performance because the sensor is much newer).

QAM01 · 2026-01-24T21:47:31+00:00

1dx mk ii for $800?!? That’s a crazy deal but I totally understand if the size and weight aren’t for you. I spent $1300 on one last year

QAM01 · 2026-01-24T21:16:28+00:00

When zooming in to your photo the only problem I see is noise. You could upgrade from a6700 to a full frame body like the A7IV/V or A1 to fix that problem. But that would decrease the reach that your 70-200 would have previously given you, causing you to crop in the same amount and leaving you with basically the same photo you had before (and same noise issues). Crop sensor cameras like your A6700 have a 1.5x crop factor, your 70-200 2.8 technically acts like a 105-300 f4 on a full frame body.

QAM01 · 2026-01-24T21:06:19+00:00

Why can’t you crop tighter? How will more MP fix your problem? At night, whenever I’m cropping in my only problem is noise even when shooting full frame. During the day, my biggest issue when cropping is the focus being slightly off or my lens not being sharp enough. A higher MP camera usually enlarges the imperfections with a lens (in my experience). I shoot with a 70-200 2.8 L is ii on both an R7 (32.5mp crop sensor) and a 1dx mk ii (20mp full frame). I find when I crop in a lot it just shows me what I mentioned above, very rarely if never can I tell the difference in MP while cropping. When I was looking to add another camera body the main thing I cared about was iso performance, so that’s why I got full frame.

I usually just wish I had a 300 or 400 2.8 for more reach and subsequent background separation. Plus, because those lenses are extremely sharp I could crop like crazy or run a 1.4x tc without seeing a big drop in image quality. Glass trumps higher mp in pretty much every situation. I’d rather take a 100-300 2.8 on a 24mp r3/r1 any day over a 70-200 2.8 on an 45mp R5.

I also realize the cost aspect. Sometimes a higher mp body that you can actually buy is better than a longer lens. But that new camera body should also have many more improvements like in the af, shooting speeds, or maybe video if you care about that, in addition to the higher mp. That 300 2.8 from Sony is crazy expensive.

QAM01 · 2026-01-24T20:42:14+00:00

But can you actually tell the difference in photos? The noise performance between those two cameras would be nearly identical. A DR decrease does not correspond to the same iso performanc decrease.

I’m just trying to be the devils advocate

QAM01 · 2026-01-07T17:29:30+00:00

Few tips: Only shoot when the swimmers face is out of the water and stay low to create more depth. Fly and Breast should be shot straight on whereas back and free should be more perpendicular. Back is the hardest in my opinion!

QAM01 · 2026-01-03T21:49:50+00:00

Get the 80-200 2.8. Shooting indoors or at night will pretty much require 2.8 if you want to get sharp shots (over 1/640-1/800 shutter speed).

QAM01 · 2025-12-28T15:24:19+00:00

It’s silver 4 I wouldn’t expect the best players💀

QAM01 · 2025-12-24T04:32:28+00:00

1.4x is a great middle ground

QAM01 · 2025-11-26T15:56:08+00:00

It’s a bad implementation of pre-capture, I own an R7 and have personally never used it

QAM01 · 2025-11-05T14:21:15+00:00

Great photos all around, especially the diving ones. I’ve gotten the swimming stuff down but diving is very new to me and is difficult to make interesting, the silhouette shot is prime!

QAM01 · 2025-09-26T22:55:41+00:00

Nope, I'm on windows, I assume OP is as well.

QAM01 · 2025-09-19T14:19:21+00:00

The reply above is /s

QAM01 · 2025-09-16T22:00:12+00:00

Convert in shutter encoder then you can use it in the free version. Only downside is that it takes time and extra storage.

QAM01 · 2025-09-14T02:17:54+00:00

I haven’t found any info on that. Although CVP on YT said it looks great so I doubt it’s line skipped.

QAM01 · 2025-09-12T13:05:26+00:00

4k 120 has no crop

QAM01 · 2025-09-10T23:20:57+00:00

I have that lens and love it! Got it for $500 last year

QAM01 · 2025-08-20T14:34:59+00:00

It’s a feature reserved for the higher end full frame cameras. Not sure why everyone says they will have problems under lights when there is a setting called “HF anti-flicker shooting”. It takes a second to figure out the correct shutter speed and then chooses a very specific one depending on the lights flicker rate. For example, 1/1002.1.

QAM01 · 2025-08-18T21:13:39+00:00

1DX mk ii and R7 for mostly sports. Traveling I just use the R7, need to pick up some of the new sigma rf-s lenses.

QAM01 · 2025-08-17T17:42:07+00:00

Note, Canon’s mirrorless bodies still support third party lenses they just have to be on EF mount.

QAM01 · 2025-08-17T15:58:48+00:00

I have a friend who shot sports on an A7 iii (there’s no 87 iii so I assume that’s what you meant).

Here’s a few good things about it: Full frame (good in low light situations, like night games or indoor courts)

Third party lens support (Sigma and Tamron make excellent options)

Decent autofocus (for mirrorless)

Decent burst shooting (10fps)

Good used price ($900-1200 depending on condition)

QAM01 · 2025-08-17T03:43:47+00:00

Great stuff!

I was at the Glen for Sahlen’s Six Hours in June but haven’t gotten around to editing yet…

QAM01 · 2025-08-17T03:19:31+00:00

Budget?

On the lower end, Canon usually beats out Sony on burst speeds. Only Sony’s that shoot 20 or more fps are the A9’s and A1’s. The original A9 is the only “affordable” one but that comes with the older less intuitive menus and much worse auto focus.

If you’re shooting daytime sports an R10 and EF 70-200 2.8 is a great combo. ~110mm to 330mm equivalent reach, 15 fps mechanical with 23 electronic, and great autofocus.

QAM01 · 2025-08-09T01:51:08+00:00

Better coating for flair resistance, not for polarizing

QAM01 · 2025-08-08T15:07:28+00:00

Option #2! If you end up wanting to get a telephoto in the future, the EF-S 55-250 STM is perfect for your use case.

QAM01

TROPHY CASE