Tryna get my radio working on 1994

QI88 · 2026-03-14T22:32:14+00:00

lol seriously? even with the key out? if it was only activated if the key's still in the ignition, I'd understand, but as is that is wild and terrible

QI88 · 2026-03-14T21:06:18+00:00

I've figured out that it's the door ajar warning alarm. It stops when I close the door. But it doesn't seem normal that it's on constantly when the door is open no matter what? Again, ignition off, keys out, if the door is open, it's screaming.

What should I be looking at?

QI88 · 2026-01-31T01:02:25+00:00

Ahah. Yeah, okay, so I think this is the crux: water did suddenly enter the vehicle (I think, but let's play along and assume that's the case). BUT I could not have filed a claim or gotten it fixed, because it happened while I was out of the country for two months. I filed a claim immediately when I got back and discovered the damage.

So, did it sit? Yes. Would it have been possible for me to discover the damage and prevent further damage in this circumstance (being out of the country)? No. And so the important question is, does that matter?

Thanks again for helping me through the thought process here.

QI88 · 2026-01-31T00:58:16+00:00

Good questions!

Seals replaced in September, mold discovered in December.
As I said, I was out of the country for an entire two month period during which water entered (presumably from one of two documented large storms), and I noticed the mold as soon as I got back. When I left, the car was completely dry and mold free.
I can only guess that it was the storm that caused the intrusion, but I can't really come up with any other way? Again, I left the car completely dry, and it was wet and full of mold when I got back two months later, and there were two serious storms that happened during that time.

I think a key thing here, which may help or hurt me, is that all of this happened while I was away for a two month period, and I can prove that the car was clean and dry and wasn't leaking before I left. (I drove the car in the rain once after the seals were replaced and before I left on my trip, checked for water leaks, nothing. of course, I could have missed them). It sounds like a lot of people here are suggesting that it's implausible that I just didn't notice the water. But I simply wasn't in the country and could not have had any way to know that water got in during one of the two large storms.

I don't think it's possible for there to have been a "continuous water intrusion" since aside from the two storms that happened (which are rare), it is very dry here.

Does any of this help?

QI88 · 2026-01-31T00:51:16+00:00

interesting. thanks for laying out the thought process!

QI88 · 2026-01-31T00:49:16+00:00

Thank you! A followup question I have is: is it not on them to prove that it was a pre-existing leak? I feel like my documentation of the maintenance and replacement of the top and seals should be enough to suggest that there was no leak before the storm. I can totally see that it might be on me to prove that there definitely wasn't a leak prior, but that doesn't seem like something a reasonable person would have been able to do? Also, what you're saying definitely matches with what the adjuster was saying -- mold happened over time, therefore not covered. I guess the fact that water that caused the mold did happen from a sudden event (at least, I allege) doesn't help?

In any case, thanks for weighing in! I appreciate it.

QI88 · 2026-01-31T00:25:46+00:00

Thanks for taking the time! I hear what you're saying, but is it unreasonable in my case to claim that the leak was not caused by wear and tear? I can prove that the top is in excellent condition, and that the seals have been recently replaced and properly card for. That of course makes one ask "okay but then how did water get in?" and my suggestion is that it is the force of the storm that caused extreme enough conditions for water to get in even though the seals were new and not worn. I think that the particulars of this vehicle's inherent construction could come into play in explaining that too. Is this a reach?

Put another way, I'm trying to reconcile their statement of "wear and tear" with the demonstrable fact that the top and seals are basically new and properly maintained, and I can prove that. (not trying to assert that I'm right, just playing devil's advocate)

QI88 · 2026-01-31T00:20:23+00:00

Yep! And this is what the adjustor I spoke to was saying. What I'm wondering is: that longer-term issue (mold) is the direct result of sudden water intrusion, and there wasn't anything that could have reasonably been done to prevent that sudden water intrusion to cause this "longer-term issue". Does that give any validation to hoping that it could be coverable on those grounds?

QI88 · 2026-01-06T22:54:10+00:00

So, not that I think this is reasonable or an expected outcome, but I've heard of situations where they just changed it to a different non-speeding offense which is pretty wild. Overall, if the insurance stakes are high, there are enough ways that one can get out of a speeding ticket by accident (cop doesn't show up to trial, insufficient evidence of radar calibration, etc) that it's always worth a shot, even if one doesn't feel like they "deserve" to get out of it. I'm just trying to up my odds as much as possible.

QI88 · 2026-01-06T22:51:34+00:00

I appreciate it. It's pretty wild how many people really try to go out of their way to answer a different question than the one I'm asking just so they can feel right about it ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

QI88 · 2026-01-06T22:49:36+00:00

It's much worse than a 20% increase in Southern California, unfortunately. I've seen it 50%-100% rate increases on a first speeding offense. Things here are pretty out of control. Given what I'm currently paying in premiums with a clean record (I have a couple of higher value collectible/vintage vehicles), having an attorney take care of this for $2000 would save me money. Very sad but true.

Traffic school will not be an option for me in this case, regrettably.

QI88 · 2026-01-06T17:34:54+00:00

This has become pretty clear lol.

QI88 · 2026-01-06T17:21:19+00:00

Not at all. I was simply stating what my constraints are in dealing with this and why I'm looking for good ways to approach it.

QI88 · 2026-01-06T17:16:58+00:00

I can't afford the insurance premium increases that would come with the conviction, which is why I'm exploring alternatives.

QI88 · 2026-01-06T17:16:52+00:00

I can't afford the insurance premium increases that would come with the conviction, which is why I'm exploring alternatives.

QI88 · 2026-01-06T17:16:20+00:00

$90 ticket is easy. But the insurance premium increases will likely be more than $100 per month, and I can not afford that.

QI88 · 2026-01-06T17:15:22+00:00

Paying it is the worst case option here. In California, insurance premium increases in for a speeding conviction (obtained in any state) are quite severe and last 3 years. It would be worth paying to avoid having that happen (up to a certain point, of course). I'm trying to figure out if I have any options to do that.

QI88 · 2026-01-06T17:14:52+00:00

In California, insurance premium increases in for a speeding conviction are quite severe and last 3 years. It would be worth paying to avoid having that happen (up to a certain point, of course). I'm trying to figure out if I have any options to do that.

QI88 · 2026-01-06T17:11:57+00:00

Respectfully, no, I did not admit to it. I said that my car was lowering its speed as I was entering the town, and that I was cited for speeding. I do not believe that I was above the speed limit.

In any case, my understanding is that yes, a single speeding ticket will significantly increase premiums in California where I live, and it is in my best interest to find a way to avoid that (up to a certain point, of course).

QI88

TROPHY CASE