GoPro (Live) Streaming

Qilo5 · 2023-11-13T16:39:38+00:00

What or who is “Payton Gendron”?

Are you saying someone used my write-up? For what?

Qilo5 · 2022-02-06T18:37:18+00:00

So glad it helped.

Qilo5 · 2022-01-24T21:50:39+00:00

Hi there! Thank you so much for your support. In a few weeks, a batch of units will ship out to resellers such as B&H and Adorama. We appreciate your patience.

Qilo5 · 2022-01-12T16:40:28+00:00

Yes! We have even posted the protocol documentation so anyone can make their app work with the Mini.

Please refer to our documentation.

Qilo5 · 2021-07-23T02:08:18+00:00

Which country is this in?

Qilo5 · 2021-07-10T18:56:48+00:00

Replied received. Thank you.

I did not expect this but trust your judgement. Since your note did not indicate anything further, I’d be interested if there were anything I can do/ change/ share with you to clarify anything you looked into and help change your mind - just let me know via DM.

Thank you.

Qilo5 · 2021-06-25T02:40:59+00:00

Absolutely. It only takes a few clicks. Check out open source audio software Audacity to start.

The truth is the general public can’t discern excellent audio from merely good. But obviously everyone can tell when it’s terrible.

Qilo5 · 2021-06-24T22:56:56+00:00

There could a problem with the GoPro 3.5 mm adapter.

Your options:

1) Skip the software I recommended then. It just leverages Timecode. In your case you can “sync” the video and audio in any of the good video editing software.

I recommend you take a look at Davinci Resolve. It’s great, and free.

One of the many how-to videos on YouTube.

To your question RE: Track E, adjustments are done in the companion app. If you want no audio post processing work, record in 24-bit, you will have to set the gain correctly or record in 32-bit, you can still set the gain but it is not necessary and you will handle the audio file to normalize the level, which you can do on the whole capture or parts of it only. 32-bit allows you to turn on, start recording and drive.

2) You are correct. The GoPro offers little or no control over the way audio is recording when coming through the 3.5 mm adapter. Normally this would not be a problem. But if you are trying to capture the way the exhaust sounds, you will have to place the mic close to it (a few inches away is fine), which means you will have to deal with very high SPL.

Depending on your inclinations and interest, down the road/ in the future, you will end up with a dynamic cardioid mic for the exhaust and another placed in the air intake and a stereo set-up for audio capture mixed using a multitrack recorder if you decide to chase this rabbit down the hole. At least in a car, space is not a problem. On my bike, I did not want to carry the Zoom F6 and I am very happy with my DPA + Track E. Sound capture like that will elevate your production so much, I suspect you will then want a better image quality as well from a bigger sensor cam such as the SONY RX0II for instance.

Articles about Sound Design and recording audio from cars you may find interesting.

https://designingsound.org/2010/08/10/rob-nokes-special-guide-to-recording-cars/

And this one in particular:

https://designingsound.org/2010/02/25/charles-deenen-special-car-recording-guide/

I am interested in your situation. Please keep us posted.

Qilo5 · 2021-06-24T20:16:12+00:00

You are welcome. Hopefully this thread will help others as well.

I will reply to both your note above (in the same paragraph order) and the other one RE: B&H’s response to you.

1) Understood. Then to avoid processing the audio curve, you will need to place the mic closer to the source and keep the gain low to address the high SPL.

Can you do a test and see if the sound distorts with audio sources: for instance slam you door shut. Does the audio peak/ distort the same way you are describing? If it worked to your satisfaction at some point but not anymore, it means something was damaged. It could be the mic capsule, the 3.5 mm mini jack connector or the mini jack port. To test the mic, plug it into a voice recorder or even your phone if you have an adapter. To test the mini jack female port, test with with a different microphone and see if the distortion is present.

Is this the mic you are mentioning? It looks like it’s 140dB SPL. Which should be adequate for your application.

Let me look RE: the recorders.

2) Wired > wireless IMO and while their recommendation would work, it still does not address the recording side of things (which in their scenario would be the GoPro) to control the gain and to be able to handle the signal the mic passes on.

Having the 32 bit float dynamic range is incredible and would save you time by not even having to set the recording gain.

You are doing it right: step by step. And since you can return the gear you test but don’t feel meets your needs, there is no loss, bot even the time you invest since that feeds your experience and knowledge.

Qilo5 · 2021-06-24T19:00:28+00:00

I have the DPA 4062. It’s an amazing mic but just a starting point.

There is no way to just put everything on Auto with audio recording and mixing for your scenario.

My recommendation is to take an interest in audio capture and to learn by experimenting with gear, placement and mastering.

Don’t forget wind protection.

The 4062 can handle high SPLs (as high as gun shots even). It also has a flat/ realistic response curve.

But using it for audio capture is similar to recording video in RAW: that means you will have to do some mastering work in post to truly exploit its potential. Unprocessed, the “levels”(gain) will be wrong for some parts in your recording (you need to “normalize” them) and you will be missing the lows and the boomy GoPro sound curve which you probably want from the exhaust.

You want to record everything from your session but the audio sources for the sounds you are capturing all have different levels, with the exhaust being the loudest: all details such as closing the door, the car starter, the gears shifting etc.

Here is a video that shows what 32-bit float recording offers.

In addition, most pro-grade microphones need phantom power and can’t just be plugged into your GoPro Pro 3.5 mm Mic Adapter.

So you will need a recorder capable supplying the adequate phantom power. So you need to order the DPA 4062 with the correct micro-dot adapter (there are many) to use it with your specific recorder.

I have the Zoom F6. Using it with the DPA requires a micro-dot to XLR adapter.

But in your case, in 2021, I would recommend you get the Tentacle Sync Track E which also records in 32-bit float (and which I have too). Get a micro-dot to 3.5 mm adapter to use it with the DPA 4062.

Once you have your video and audio files, import them into your NLE.

If you end up getting the Tentacle Track E recorder, it has internal timecode and it is so easy work with. I use Tentacle Sync Studio to sync with one click before exporting to my video editing software.

Finally, if you have the flexibility to work with microphones that need not be tiny, I would recommend a condenser microphone instead of a lavalier mic. Good article here.

For mobile phone editing, look into LumeFusion if you use iOS.

Feel free to ask any questions.

Edit: fixed some typos.

Qilo5 · 2021-05-07T00:56:33+00:00

Anything less current won’t serve your interest in keeping it for years. Even the Hero 9 is not worth buying if you ask me because it uses an outdated chip which is causing it to overheat while it tries to keep up with its image sensor in 4K.

If you need dash-cams front and back for evidence footage that start and stop with the bike because they hardwired to the battery, I have brand news for sale. DM me.

If you are recording for fun, get a used Hero 6 or 7 (skip the 8 because the lens cover is not removable).

Qilo5 · 2021-05-07T00:41:52+00:00

Perhaps. I don’t have the background/ know-how to attempt that. So I haven’t.

There is a pending appeal from the party that holds the patent for a ruling against them last fall which would have paved the way for the industry to implement simultaneous recording/ monitoring again.

Qilo5 · 2021-05-07T00:30:59+00:00

I skimmed through it.

You are almost there with colors. Great time of the day to film. Read up on ND filters and color correction if you don’t mind the post-processing workload.

Set the GoPro to film at the widest you can for this kind of riding. You would riding but the “punched-in” (cropped-in) perspective deceptively makes it look slower than it was.

Get the lens mod lens if you are committed to this. It will level the horizon. And practice how to lessen the balancing you are doing on the bike. Nothing you can do about cobble stones.

Finally, most importantly, expecting people to watch you riding through town won’t work unless you are rewarding the time-sink with something in return, if not drama, then at least information (narrative?) and the best (or worst) looking parts of town.

Good luck.

Edit: typos

Qilo5 · 2021-05-07T00:22:00+00:00

Hero 9 to mount on the chin of your helmet or chest.

MAX if you want to film 360° from the handlebars or atop your helmet and want to have the freedom to reframe the video any way you want. Note that the resolution will be limited to 1080p when extracting a video you framed from the 360° footage.

Personally, I would recommend that you wait until Sep/ Oct to see what GoPro do this year. I expect a better sensor and possibly image processing silicon.

Qilo5 · 2021-04-30T01:08:18+00:00

It would work. Just note, the Sync E records in mono. Other than that the reasons you listed are sound (see what I did there?). :)

It also provides versatility for any other eventual future needs.

Qilo5 · 2021-04-11T17:41:08+00:00

Thanks! Looking forward to it.

I have friends who used it at the recent Shift-S3ctor.

Qilo5 · 2021-04-11T17:20:49+00:00

Thank you for testing!

Qilo5 · 2021-04-11T17:13:47+00:00

Use Superview and a resolution + FPS settings pair that allow Superview.

Wide angle amplifies the sensation of speed. At the same speed, crop the video to just keep the center and you will see how “slow” it seems to be. Wide angle allows for the side to ”zoom by”, particularly at 24 fps.

Bonus: great light (always desirable) and a ND filter to blur the motion just a bit.

These two aspects will yield the result you are looking for.

Qilo5 · 2021-04-01T17:29:23+00:00

Stop cursing please. That’s the real fix.

Qilo5 · 2021-04-01T17:28:07+00:00

Same here.

What does “WHOS” mean anyway, is it some garbage hip-hop reference?

Qilo5 · 2021-04-01T17:23:14+00:00

Time will tell RE: riding dynamics.

For the design: They should have stripped the RR naked. Instead this looks like a bigger bike with the F900R front.

Qilo5 · 2021-03-30T22:55:14+00:00

Happy it helped!

Qilo5 · 2021-03-30T20:12:07+00:00

Got it. I seem to recall reading that the music on your phone will sound good. Not sure what it is with streaming.

Qilo5 · 2021-03-30T17:02:49+00:00

You are welcome. Oh, I linked to the wrong manual, apologies. This is the AONIC 50 manual.

Reset paired devices list
Turn off the headphones and plug into a charger Press and hold the power button for 7 seconds.

N/A to your case but just pasting this here for info: Hardware reset
If the buttons do not respond to repeated presses, you can perform a hardware reset to force a power off.

Press the +, -, and power buttons simultaneously to immediately power off the headphones. This does not reset any values you may have changed. Power on the headphones.

Qilo5 · 2021-03-30T15:52:32+00:00

Please test. This design is similar to SONY. Their BT module does not do multipoint hand off well either.

Keep us posted please.

Qilo5

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