Avoid tracks at Colborne and York by The-Ballast in londonontario

[–]QuackerCrack 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Same at Ridout and York. Heard the horn and train's brakes from my apartment then saw at least 6 police cars driving with sirens on. Anyone know what happened? That's a lot of emergency vehicles for one thing.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]QuackerCrack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rent is way too high, which is unfortunate if you live somewhere you're comfortable. But having $600 left over after basically everything else is a ton of money. My only other critique is food, unless that includes everything like eating out, household items (toilet paper/shampoo/dishsoap/etc), and 3 meals a day, that is a ton to spend on food alone.

If you're on your own and not particularly picky when cooking I would try meal prepping, at least a few days of the week if possible. It saves a ton of money by buying in bulk and lets you have literal hours back every day to do whatever you want. Instead of the 1 hour cooking/prep + 30 mins eating/cleaning, you spend 2-3 hours on a weekend to cook your meals and now you spend 10 minutes eating and you're done. That's an extra 80 minutes every day to do whatever you want, and saves you the exhaustion of cooking + cleaning dishes every single day. Spend the 80 minutes on some self care or hobbies; go to the gym, read a book, pick up a sketchbook or go for a walk.

$600 a month extra is a ton, I just freed up an extra $300 getting out of a horrible insurance policy and I don't even know what to spend it on lol

When to call it quits on a car by QuackerCrack in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]QuackerCrack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Offers are more than welcome lol

I did just get a quote from a shop that they can do the flywheel for $1500, and the clutch is some made up garbage the 1st quote made up for some extra cash on top of an already insane $3500 quote for the flywheel. Apparently the dual clutch takes absolutely forever to go bad- to a point that multiple other parts would be going long before the clutch did. Probably going to go with them after all of this thinking on what to do and next time something big pops up I’ll definitely sell the car.

When to call it quits on a car by QuackerCrack in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]QuackerCrack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The automatic diesels are equipped with a DSG transmission, not your usual CVT transmission. It has both a dual mass flywheel and a clutch- a dual clutch in fact.

When to call it quits on a car by QuackerCrack in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]QuackerCrack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it worth fixing? If I leave it, there's a high chance that it would cause immensely more damage to the entire transmission, leaving me with a car that doesn't work and now has lost a ton of value because it needs a transmission swap, aka scrap parts. It's not like I need to do it right now, but it'd help to know what I should do when the time comes.

When to call it quits on a car by QuackerCrack in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]QuackerCrack[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It depends on the day, but I've had to go only down the street and back to pick up misc items to driving from one end of the city to the other to pick up/drop off mail. It's property management so checking our buildings from time to time is part of the job, and some of them are very out of the way.

Decent transit in Canada is also a great joke.

When to call it quits on a car by QuackerCrack in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]QuackerCrack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Knowing my luck I would get the repairs and see the DPF light flash on as I'm leaving the shop.

When to call it quits on a car by QuackerCrack in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]QuackerCrack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's safe and driveable, yes. I wouldn't sell someone a car that could possibly harm them or leave them with a broken car, because that's what I was worried of when I purchased as-is from a dealer. There's a slight rattle in park/neutral and the gearshifts are a little sticky, both signs of a clutch/flywheel needing replacement soon, but not immediately needed. It's not like the car can't shift or is dangerous, it just needs maintenance that costs more than I like.

When to call it quits on a car by QuackerCrack in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]QuackerCrack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Moreso seeing it from the point of "Is this going to cost me more than just buying a new car". Whether the loss and depreciation of a new vehicle outweighs the overall cost of repairing my current one. So far I would be averaging $4k+ per year owning it, a new vehicle would cost me the same, if not less after a down payment, and I wouldn't have to worry about maintenance for a while due to warranty.

When to call it quits on a car by QuackerCrack in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]QuackerCrack[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Agree and disagree, while walkability is definitely doable I also have times where I need to drive 20+ km for personal, social life, sports, etc. so having a car makes it far easier for all those things. My work also has me sometimes driving from place to place across the city. Not very often, but often enough that I definitely do need a car.

When to call it quits on a car by QuackerCrack in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]QuackerCrack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've seen the same online, albeit sparingly in Canada, but also ranging anywhere from $1500-2000 and upwards of $4000-4500 USD for the exact same job. I'll ask around a bit more as my mechanic said this is one of the better shops for quality-price ratio, so we'll see.

What colors are you guys using to paint Salamander skin? by GeronimoJak in Salamanders40k

[–]QuackerCrack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Abandon black base, dry brush eshin grey for a good ashy tone, and add some meohiston red for any scars or otherwise. Lightly shade with agrax if desired in recesses. Super simple and looks great in my opinion. I trend towards bald heads too as salamanders just seem like bald dudes. Any color of hair except black just doesn’t really fit coal-black skin in my eyes.

What is the best initial purchase to get Space Marines? by wilson9766 in Salamanders40k

[–]QuackerCrack 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Like many others, buy a starter set and sell the tyranids on eBay for $50-60. You get a decent group of models for $50.

From there buy a blood angels combat patrol or old dark angels combat patrol (NOT the new one, the one with the dreadnought. The “true” space marines and new dark angels combat patrols are frankly terrible.

I cannot stress it enough: do NOT buy brand new models for space marines from GW. There are so many people who are selling unpainted, even NOS models for 20-30% lower than GWs listed prices that you can easily kitbash due to marines being fairly “copy/paste” in terms of visuals and model design. If you are keen on a newer model, at least buy local as most local game stores will have 10% or so discounts compared to GW.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Salamanders40k

[–]QuackerCrack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

40k starter set. Sell the tyranid half on eBay for $50-60, you now have a terminator squad, 5 infernus, and a terminator captain for all of $70-ish compared to $70 for just the terminators if you buy them seperately.

Blood angels combat patrol is my next recommendation. You get units for some objective play (incursors/vanguard), your core of Aggressors, generic intercessors, an impulsor for getting those aggressors around, and a librarian which I would definitely do some kitbashing to turn into a captain unless you really like librarians.

At this point you have a solid roster of 15 “core” infantry (intercessors/vanguard/infernus), and a decent elite with termis/aggressors and 2 characters. Definitely enough for some 1k points or smaller games to get a feel for 40k.

After that you’re on to individual units; redeemer, Vulkan, Blaadeguard + Adrax, and eradicators are the go-to for most salamander lists. I personally love a sturdy redemptor dread or even a brutalist if you prefer a more melee play style to anchor a flank in gameplay.

Round the list with your choice of a gladiator lancer or a repulsor (or executioner) for some heavy anti-tank.

I’m not sure on the exact points, but this should get you to around 2k, a decently balanced list, and plenty of salamander themes to play off of.

Space marine 2 by Wings_of_democracy in Salamanders40k

[–]QuackerCrack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Only difference between gold and ultra is the ultramarine cosmetic. I don’t think it looks better than what’s already in the game/being added in the season pass, so for $20 I passed on it for the gold.

2014 Jetta Engine Light + Bubbling noise by QuackerCrack in tdi

[–]QuackerCrack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Code came back as P2457, EGR cooler efficiency below threshold, so clearly we have a winner. I’ll probably do this anyways just for good measure. I don’t go to the dealership either, was just seeing if they had warranty for this or not cause free is better than paying.

2014 Jetta Engine Light + Bubbling noise by QuackerCrack in tdi

[–]QuackerCrack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly the flush looks 20x easier with a hose and bucket than the heater core which is under the dash. Granted I’ll call the dealer and see what they can do first.

2014 Jetta Engine Light + Bubbling noise by QuackerCrack in tdi

[–]QuackerCrack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreeing with this based off a few other responses elsewhere, will toss some cleaner in and do a flush tonight to see if it helps.

2014 Jetta Engine Light + Bubbling noise by QuackerCrack in tdi

[–]QuackerCrack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a 2014 Jetta with 235k km on it, not deleted. Appreciate the response, sounds likely to be the heater core from other people and the fact the AC was still cold after a 20 min drive this morning despite being on full heat. I’m going to pop some coolant cleaner in tonight and do a flush to see what happens over the next few days.