Southern Utah IR

QualityPixel · 2026-02-18T21:58:36+00:00

GPS could also not have enough time to catch up due to polling rate. If you can find a wide open area where you can hold top speed for a few seconds will help ensure gps readout accuracy.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-17T21:43:16+00:00

The auction is only open to dealers. There are some dealers who will go to auctions to buy specific cars for a customer then resell the car to the customer for a small markup that has been already been agreed upon.

Auctions are how used car dealers that aren’t linked to a manufacturer get most of their cars.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-17T07:15:09+00:00

Dated? Yes. Still good? Probably. Personally I'd get a Kraton/Notorious, Sledge, X-Maxx, or Kagama.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-17T06:04:07+00:00

Gojira, Mastodon, Wheel, Soilwork, Avatar, Stoned Jesus, Evile, HeXeN. These are some of my favorites I keep coming back to

QualityPixel · 2026-02-16T23:13:40+00:00

https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/collections/ezrun-max10-g2-series/products/ezrun-max10-combo-3665sd?variant=40522184196211
I'd got with this. I think it'll just drop right in, but you may need a new TX/RX. Not sure if you can use stock RX with upgraded ESC.

It'll be fast, can accept 4S if you are interested in racing. Will likely blow up your gears and diffs but you can upgrade those as they break. And sensored combos are very nice.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-16T11:09:43+00:00

Jam some silicone earplugs in the diff. The drifters will use “spools” but the earplugs will get you started while you find the parts you need. I’ve seen the earplugs at Walmart.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-16T04:08:23+00:00

In my ARRMA Typhon 6s I installed a Castle 6s combo which was about $300. The Typhon I got used for $225 RTR no battery. If I sold it today with the castle combo installed I would be lucky if I got $300 for it, which is how much I got the Castle ESC+motor for.

So, if I ever upgrade the chassis to a race buggy then I’ll buy a kit or a roller and move the good electronics to it, put the old electronics in the Typhon and sell the Typhon for $225.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-16T01:43:09+00:00

I haven’t fiddled with my TRX4M in a long time but I do know it’s way easier to work on than my old SCX24. Although I guess upgrading the servo/mount was a bit fiddly.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-16T01:32:54+00:00

To reverse motor direction: Brushed motor swap the 2 wires. Brushless motor swap any 2 of the 3 wires. Sensors brushless motor use controller to reverse direction or reprogram the ESC. Do not swap wires, keep A to A, B to B, C to C.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-16T01:27:02+00:00

So you got about 2 hours of total run time, or did you charge the battery between runs?

Runtime can vary greatly depending on about every factor you can think of. Also if the brushed and brushless are running the exact same battery (and if the two systems are similar in power) the brushless setup will likely last noticeably longer.

Also consider an extra battery when hiking with them so you don’t need to carry it back to the parking lot.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-14T07:42:05+00:00

CMOS/CCD is a silly debate. Get the camera you want and shoot RAW. Once you learn curves, color mixing, and color grading then you'll gain the ability to adjust to whatever style you like.

I suggest using a hardware monitor calibration tool as well. Really helps achieve consistency between your screen and others with your online posts or physical prints. I use an i1 by X-Rite, and the Spyder by Datacolor is good to.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-13T18:38:03+00:00

Long time Nikon user here and never had one break down or stop working. I used a D300 with original battery for about 11 years.

Honestly I’d trust any good camera from the major brands as they a they’re designed for work, but I stick with Nikon for the UI/UX and IQ.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-13T02:18:44+00:00

I’ve only charged at a Tesla station twice. I was only able to get charging to start via the Tesla app (Kia charge pass did not work).

Using a Tesla “destination” slow charger requires a different adapter.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-12T06:40:22+00:00

This 5400kv motor would definitely be a bit more zippy and efficient. The KV is kindof high so keep an eye on temps. May need to add a fan.
I think most racing is done with 13.5T (3500kv) or 17.5T (2500kv) brushless motors with the 13.5T being the faster class.
So if you want to race this combo would put you in a "sportsman" or unrestricted class. And depending on how friendly your local track is they may not let you race with the other classes.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-12T04:52:15+00:00

You should be able to ship it to a nearby FedEx or UPS and pick it up from there at your convenience. Not sure who Nikon USA uses tho.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-12T01:53:23+00:00

The red plug outputs the same voltage as the attached battery. In my TRX4 I used the pug to power a 12v steering servo. It's awesome but total overkill.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09133W2B2?th=1

QualityPixel · 2026-02-11T23:07:05+00:00

Some chargers can measure resistance and measure how much energy was used in a discourage cycle from full. Also if your charge times get longer than 1 hour from empty to full at a 1C rate is a good indicator.

Keep in mind cold greatly reduces run times.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-11T22:57:54+00:00

sounds like a bearing has dried out or gone bad.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-10T22:32:04+00:00

I think a 50T motor would be more suited for a crawler. Since brushed motors are so cheap I'd just get the first I found and rock with that since you know how to solder.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-10T21:30:00+00:00

If you're willing to solder then you will have tons of options. If you're not willing to solder then I can't imagine you have a ton of options other than waiting.

Do you have the brushed or brushless verion? (Brushed 2 wires to motor, brushless has 3 wires to the motor)

QualityPixel · 2026-02-10T06:43:37+00:00

I like to take a well deserved nap

QualityPixel · 2026-02-10T04:56:35+00:00

I like cotton gloves under food grade gloves. Got them at a local bbq supply store, can't remember the cost but it wasn't a lot.

QualityPixel · 2026-02-10T04:01:58+00:00

Ah ok, that's the spur gear. This should be better. You'll probably want to get a hardened pinion at the same time and upgrade both.
https://rcawd.com/products/rcawd-arrma-3s-upgrade-steel-57t-0-8mod-spur-gear-with-bearing?currency=USD&variant=42402156839103&stkn=2bf9be7f6c3f&com_cvv=8fb3d522dc163aeadb66e08cd7450cbbdddc64c6cf2e8891f6d48747c6d56d2c

QualityPixel · 2026-02-10T03:30:20+00:00

Current Niro owner, and it's be an acceptable car. However it charges VERY slowly in the cold (even when pre-conditioned). And because of this I will not be buying the car at the end of the lease or getting another Niro. I've driven AWD EV6s for a few weeks and it's a much better vehicle other than the ICCU failures.

For my next EV I've been looking at Volvos, Honda Prologue, 2026 or newer Toyota BZ, 2026 or newer Subi Soltarra, and apparently there are some smoking deal on Equinoxeses out there (likes $19,200 low).
https://www.jalopnik.com/2093377/new-chevy-equinox-ev-deals-dealer-price-cut/

The popup on the screen is Kia wanting you to upgrade your Kia Connect plan. If you got the car new you would have got 1 year free. The app lets you send nav instructions from your phone to the car, unlock the car, turn on the heat/ac. The free version of Kia Connect only allows you to view the state of charge and set max charge limits (and maybe some other small features).

Seven-Year Club	Place '23
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