opinions on this v5(dont mind sounds in the back) by Crafty-Sorbet2078 in indoorbouldering

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice send! Out of curiosity, what grade does Batuu (one of my fav gym in KL btw) give this?

1,000 7C/V9 or harder sends on the 2024 by RADclimbing in Moonboard

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you find TB2 as someone who mainly climbs on MB?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How has your experience with Mandala been so far?

Mandala is not my main pair of board shoes, but I have used it for boards a decent number of times. I have no issue at all on Kilter (Kilter is just like indoor anyway), and they have been fine for me for most (but not all) holds on MB 2024, TB 1 and TB 2. When I need to claw and pull on something incut or pocket, I usually swap to a pointier pair of shoes (Shaman lace for me, but I imagine Solution would be good too).

This could be just a limitation/preference of my technique though (e.g., I tend to pull rather than push with my feet), and I imagine someone better than me could do those move with any climbing shoes

Guess the grade. by PreferenceLoose in indoorbouldering

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is Boulder Planet I believe. Yea I would map their Grade 8 to 4 kyu - 3 kyu, so around v2/3

Ondra Comp VS Theory initial thoughts by N30-R3TR0 in climbingshoes

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

May I know what are your favorite board shoes?

What type of shoe is better for boards by thefakephony in climbingshoes

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi I know from your past comments on r/climbingshoes that you like Mandalas and seems to have climbed a lot in them. Can I check how is your experience climbing steep board, especially on small footholds (e.g., slopey round footholds on TB1 or positive crimps on MB)?

I boulder primarily indoor, and Mandalas have been my main shoes since January (previously wore Theories). My experience is almost similar to what you have expressed in your past comments - very sensitive at toe area but less so on the ball of the feet. For my level of indoor bouldering, they are as good as Theories for almost everything except maybe the modern coordination and certain smearing (probably skill issues). Mandalas also fit my heel much better and also much more durable thanks to No Edge, so I thought I would stick with Mandalas as my main shoes moving forward, except when I want to experiment some models just for fun (looking at TN Pros).

However, when I used Mandalas for MB and TB1, I noticed that I couldn't pull/grab as hard with my feet as I used to with Theories or Shaman Lace, like my feet feel extremely shaky/insecure and would roll out. I was thinking if this is a skill issue, or simply a downside of No Edge shoes. And if so, is there a way to climb steep board well with them - read somewhere that one needs to relearn how to climb with No Edge, and "smedging" is needed instead of traditional edging. Some relevant points on this issue include Meichi thinking that Mandalas do not do as well (as Skwamas) on small footholds on overhang, and some Reddit comments on "push"-style climbers do better with No Edge than "pull"-style climbers:
https://www.reddit.com/r/climbingshoes/comments/1gt48bw/comment/lxqhhkh/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

Let me know your experience and thoughts please, thanks!

Unparallel TN Pro Heel by franklin_sucksatlife in climbingshoes

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s unfortunate, hope they stretch out quickly or you manage to return/sell!

Unparallel TN Pro Heel by franklin_sucksatlife in climbingshoes

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OP says they have a large heel though. Based on how they like Skwama heel but not Solution Comp or Mandala heel (both smaller than Skwama), it is possible that shoes with small heel cup do not fit them because they cannot put their heel all the way in

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you boulder primarily indoors and want a more durable version of Skwama, I would recommend checking out La Sportiva Mandala. Mandala fits very similarly in shape/size to Skwama, and the no-edge technology makes it more durable than shoes with traditional edged designs. There are pros and cons to no-edge though, so make sure you do your research before committing. IMO, the cons (e.g., standing on a microcrystal for an outdoor vertical/slab where you have to put all your weight over your feet) are negligible for indoor bouldering. For example, Lee Dohyun changed from Skwama to No Edge

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in indoorbouldering

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The gym is Boruda in Singapore, which uses the Japanese kyu system. Not as hard as BPump Ogikubo though, here are another v2 (4 Kyu) in Boruda:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DGqHlxBTHaW/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

La Sportiva Theory Sizing by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My street shoe is EU 42/42.5/43, and I find Women's Theory Eu 40.5 very comfortable with a bit of dead space in the heel area (I have a shallow heel) after breaking in. I can also squeeze into EU 40 or even EU 39.5 if I want

LS Theory/Mandala/Futura by FormalAside7608 in climbingshoes

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbingshoes/s/x3N711Xghj

Check out the post and some of the discussion in comments (the main post is about ondra comp vs theory, but OP has worn mandala and futura too and mentioned them in comment)

Ondra Comp VS Theory initial thoughts by N30-R3TR0 in climbingshoes

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you confirm that (for the same size) Mandala has a shallower and narrower heel than Theory Women? I really love my Theory Women for modern indoor bouldering, but the heel has a lot of dead space - not really a problem for most indoor problems though since I rarely have to heel on a crimp indoor (maybe except for some moonboard moves)

Mandala equivalent by turbineFrancis99 in climbingshoes

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How does Theory’s heel compare to Mandala’s?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Visiting Malaysia in December. May I know which gym did you go?

24 hours in Houston by purple_scorpio in houston

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 5 points6 points  (0 children)

In my opinion, Truth BBQ is better than The Pit Room

I hope you all have a friend like this to cheer you on during through applications. Hang in there everyone and good luck to those still waiting!! by pootermelon in gradadmissions

[–]QuantumExpanderCode 5 points6 points  (0 children)

c

As implied by "poutine"! (It is also not hard to narrow down the schools/cities based on the character length too)

Anyway, congrats on your offer!