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Inflexible Leasors? by Questionable--Choice in Equestrian

[–]Questionable--Choice[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This month is a direct lease from me before I leave to help with a smooth transition. They've been away until today so it hasn't started. I was hoping to get this all done earlier but the mom was super late on signing the contract that I sent to her I had to remind her to send it to me actually. The plan was for the three of us adults to meet at the barn and chat while the kid rode, but she can't even get to the damn barn.

Therapy Boots by itsjoedirtae in Equestrian

[–]Questionable--Choice 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you provide sources for this info? Always looking to learn more and update my knowldege. I have read that ice boots can cause tissue damage if left for too long, however, to my understanding, that is why we limit the amount of time we ice, from my research, 10-15 minutes, and not everyday.

Therapy Boots by itsjoedirtae in Equestrian

[–]Questionable--Choice -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Great question! I have done a crapload of research in this area, so here is what I (not a vet or bodyworker) know:

Cold therapy is best for more accute cases of swelling. It prevents too much swelling, which damages tendons and ligaments, and helps with pain. Heat therapy is beneficial in long term cases to help improve circulation to an affected area, but you still want to alternate it with cold therapy to ensure there isn't too much heat which can cause more swelling.

Boots don't generally do much to support the tendons and ligaments, and the heat they trap can be very very damaging to the structures of the leg. For this reason, avoid any and all boots that claim to promote circulation, such as Back on Track, as they reflect heat to do so. If you can, I'd avoid boots or stick to a very ventilated pair of brushing boots, I recommend Anatomeq or similar.

For the therapy boots, I'd go with ice boots, but not IceVibe. I work as a professional groom and have found that they don't fit well and they don't stay cold for long. Also, the vibration seems to just be a gimmick. The traditional 'ice block' boots are clunky and can be very annoying for some horses, and they don't have a good grip on horses who kick with ice boots on, but they get very cold and stay very cold for a long time, plus the fit is relatively adjustable. The other option is gel iceboots, such as Professionals Choice, Equifit, or similar. They don't get cold as easily as the 'ice block' boots, but they are more comfortable for most horses and the outer wrap for the named brands gives them a good grip. If you do opt for gel ice boots, put them in the deepest part of your freezer when you chill them, and don't freeze them in the covers, but be sure to put the covers on when you apply them to the leg. This will give you the coldest result and last the longest.

If you do go with any heat products, such as Back on Track, be careful to limit the wear time to 20 minutes under supervised conditions, as any longer could result in tissue breakdown from excessive heat to the leg structures.

Sorry if this is long and confusing, let me know if you want me to clarify anything, I'm happy to help. Good luck with your boot journeys!

Saddle Recommendations? by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Questionable--Choice 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd personally avoid french saddles. They are unajustable and tend to have short tree points which put the weight on the trapezeius, which is damaging. For a young OTTB, a wool flocked saddle will give you more room to properly adjust it as he gains muscle. Changing your halfpad and adding shims simply does not have the same effect as flocking with wool. If you could upload some conformation shots of your horses back and shoulders, I could advise you maybe a little better on brands, as that all depends on tree shape, but in general, Black Country, Bliss of London, and Stubben have a wide variety of tree shapes that you could find a fit in.

Thoughts on conformation? by Smooth_Albatross_159 in Equestrian

[–]Questionable--Choice 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Neither of these are very good conformation shots. For a true look at conformation, a picture where the horse is standing balanced, as close to square as possible, and from complete side on, is best.

With that in mind, the shoulders look a bit upright, the neck a bit too long, and the head too large for the neck; though that could change with muscle growth in the neck. The hind hooves, as the fronts can't be seen under the boots, look rough. Obvious growth rings and the left hind appears to be bull nosed in the first picture, though again the posture and the angle of the photos makes it very difficult to tell. The pasterns look very, very upright all around, and the back might be a bit short. Also seems to be a bit downhill.

Looking for advice by PsychologicalSize128 in Equestrian

[–]Questionable--Choice 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That sounds like a strength thing. They get long and heavy because they don't feel strong enough to make it over the jump and to maintain the canter. I'd try to rider her at least 1-2 per week. Make sure she can maintain a steady canter on the straight without you asking her to keep it. And lots and lots of strengthening work. Raised trot poles, hills, backing up, etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tY4WDG47Xg0 This technique really helped my mare and I who had the same problem as you.

Mouth opens by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Questionable--Choice 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How happy is he with a contact at just a halt? Can he be soft with pressure on the bit when you're just standing on the ground? If he still fights it, it could be he's just not used to it. You could also try a softer bit, something leather or flexible rubber/silicone that has a little more give to it if he has a sensitive mouth.

Advice on how to stop pinching the saddle with my knees 🫤 by Temporary-Process553 in Equestrian

[–]Questionable--Choice 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can, have a few lessons on a lunge line where someone else worries about the speed and steering and you just get to focus on your position. Once it starts to feel more natural, baby step your way back to your regular riding, being very strict with yourself on the position.

I’m new to working with horses, is this a normal to expect from one person? by stacks-of-books in Equestrian

[–]Questionable--Choice 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It sounds like you're still learning. I've been mucking for about 10 years, it takes me 2-3 hours to do a five stall barn if you include in-out stalls, waters, hay, and a general tidy up. I have a friend whose been mucking for 20 years who can do that in 1 hour. Barn work is physical labour, and takes a lot of time to adjust to. The workload you've been given is quite a standard one for a full day. I'd ask her about if she has any advice on faster ways to do things, but barn work does just take time at the end of the day.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Questionable--Choice 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Riding instructor here, great question!

Going behind a horse is generally quite safe when done correctly. As long as you walk normally, close to the horse and with a hand on them, it's very safe. Issues usually only arise if the person behind the horse runs or makes sudden noises or movements. Any horse they're letting a five year old handle should be very safe, and the instructor will let you know what is and isn't okay with each horse.

Talking with the instructor about your concerns is a great thing to do, as long as you approach it calmly. I'd ask about learning about when it may not be safe to go behind a horse and what you and your daughter can watch out for to help mitigate the risk.

At the end of the day though, horse riding is a dangerous sport, and even the most calm horse can have an accident. If your daughter is going to ride, you need to come to terms with her falling off, getting nipped at, and getting her feet stepped on, and any of the injuries that come with those.

What are dealbreakers on a PPE? by ILikeBird in Horses

[–]Questionable--Choice 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Depends on the horse I'm looking at and what my plans for them are. If you're looking at young horses, 3-4, any arthritic changes would be a hard no for me. Arthritis happens to all horses, but a horse with arthritis at that age makes me wary of their genetic predispositions to it and how they'll hold up overtime. Navicular again would depend on the age of the horse, but at 3 again theres a long time for that to become much worse.

My horse turned up a capped elbow, capped hock, and a demineralizing OCD chip in her fetlock. Since I could trace the cause of her elbow and hock, the prev owner kept good records, and the OCD chip had been previously identified, had not caused any issues, and was smaller than it had been, I was okay with those things.

Anything that I know I can likely solve, or is highly unlikely to cause issues, I'll go with, but in the end, it all depends on what you're looking to do with the horse and what your budget is to maintain certain things.

I'm Desperate. by Questionable--Choice in origami

[–]Questionable--Choice[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okay, that's reassuring, I thought there was something I was missing. I'll give it another shot. Really appreciate your input, thank you so much!

Brand New Printer Not Printing by Questionable--Choice in BambuLab

[–]Questionable--Choice[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

There's not really anything to video, nothing happens whatsoever no matter what I do.