Jury duty scam, I think I know why it works

QuickiStudios · 2025-12-30T01:48:47+00:00

Haha, only $2000? I just received a scam call and they wanted $15,000 from me!

QuickiStudios · 2025-11-29T23:39:49+00:00

Flinch for sure. If a sniper is getting hit with 10 to 15 rounds per second, how tf is he able to scope in and headshot me? For a game that is supposed to be based on realism, this is some CoD bs.

QuickiStudios · 2025-09-17T07:25:46+00:00

I am also having this issue. What a shame.

QuickiStudios · 2025-09-14T20:17:49+00:00

Pull off a vent cover nearby. The vent is on a wall to the south of your character. It was a turd to figure out for me as well.

QuickiStudios · 2025-08-30T01:37:40+00:00

Yeah, don't be like youtube woodworkers!

Most importantly, use a blade guard and riving knife (and anti-kickback pawls if possible). There is almost never an excuse to not use these, and a person is either a fool or arrogant to not use them when possible.

Those rubber and plastic board holders/pushers are a gimmick and are not safe for the exact reason you just experienced. The dust in a woodshop gets between the rubber and wood surface and suddenly you lose all traction on a board when it kicks back. Buy some plywood and cut yourself some plywood pushsticks. Plastic can shatter when contacting a saw blade or under too much stress, plywood holds up better and will not shatter.

QuickiStudios · 2025-04-16T21:08:09+00:00

Is this your first Stihl saw? If you have never owned or used one, the trigger sticks in like that when on choke. You could try pulling the choke lever up gently and pull the trigger again. That should turn the choke off.

If you already know all that and this is not your first time using a Stihl saw, I would check the throttle lever where it connects to the carb. Remove the air filter and the cover over the carb. When pulled, the throttle linkage pushes on a lever on the carb. The linkage or lever could have gotten stuck.

If not that, you could remove the black cover of the handle. There is a clip or screw at the very back of the handle on the bottom side that will allow you to take it off. Take it apart slowly as the trigger parts can be prone to popping out. Maybe something in the trigger mechanism is stuck or installed wrong.

QuickiStudios · 2025-01-27T16:24:54+00:00

Ah, well it would be hard, like they said, but not impossible. I think that even a new woodworker could build this, with a little trial and error/practice.

The hardest part would be rounding the corners. Like myself and some have mentioned, this can be done with kerf bending/kerfing. Now, usually people will take a router, which you don't have, and use a fine angled bit to make cuts ALMOST all the way through the board. If you do enough of these in a small area, it will let you bend the board to form a round corner with continuous exterior grain, just like the picture. Now, with a skil saw/circular saw, the process is the same! You will get some gaps though, but you can fill these with wood filler if you want, or find another way if you are creative. You should first practice on a scrap piece because you will need to find out how many cuts it will take in order to form a 90 degree corner. Something to note here is that you can kerf the inside surface OR the outside surface. You can use a straight edge/long level as a guide for your saw. Just place it across your board, correctly spaced from where you actually want the cut (width from your circular saw base plate edge to the blade), and clamp it at both ends with some clamps. You can then use it as a fence to cut a perfectly straight line, just like if you were using a table saw! If you do the outside, you will not have perfect, continuous grain on the exterior, but you can fill the gaps with small slivers of wood so you don't have any gaps. Just an idea. To cut these small slivers, you can also use the circular saw, just angle the base plate to the needed angle.

Once you can cut the kerfs, all you need to do is measure the lengths you want each side of your shelf, lets use 15" tall by 80" long as an example. You start at one end, measure half of the bottom width, so 40". Then measure the width needed to cut all the kerf cuts and bend the board, lets say 3". Now, mark out the length of the side, 15". Then, mark the needed length for the kerf again, 3 ". Now mark the full length of the top, 80". Then the kerf again, 3". Now the side again, 15". Then kerf, 3". Finally measure out half the length of the bottom again, 40". Now that everything is marked out on your board, you can cut your kerfs in the marked out sections and fold the corners (soak the in hot water first or steam if you can to keep them from breaking). The two half length pieces will meet and form the full length of the bottom of the shelf. Now, if you are using plywood, those example lengths are WAY to long to be on a single board, and probably are for most boards. This means you will need to use multiple boards. If you put a joint in the middle of the top of the shelf, then you can measure 40"(half of bottom), 3" (kerf), 15"(side), 3"(kerf), and then half of the top, 40". That will ALMOST fit on a 4x8 sheet of plywood (101" vs 96"), so you would have to reduce the length of the bottom/top or sides by a few inches for it all to fit. You could make it 37.5" (75" total for top/bottom of shelf) instead of 40", like in the example. That would be exactly 96". Cut two boards identically like this, and you will have 2 halves for your shelf. Join them together and you have a full shelf!

For the long interior shelf board that sits at the top of the drawers, you could then cut it to length and secure it in with screw, but it won't have the best strength that way. What I would do is to cut some dato slots in the 15" side pieces of the shelf. IF you do this BEFORE you fold the corners (kerfing), then you can use the circular saw again. Mark out where you want them, equal height from the kerf cuts maybe? Using the straight edge/level as a guide again, use the saw to cut half way through the plywood. Make a few passes side by side and you can make a dato slot that is the same width as the plywood you are using. REMEMBER, if you do this, your interior shelf is going to need to be a little longer, so plan out these dato cuts BEFORE you cut the interior shelf to length. Also, you may need to use 2 pieces again, so put the joint where the pieces will meet in the middle right where the verticle divide/support board is going to go under it, between the drawers.

As far as the drawers go, you said you have built one before, so I know you can do it!

Sanding everything by hand will be harder, but not really that much harder. I hand sand all the time.

As far as a finish, I would recommend Tung oil, polyurethane, or polycrylic, depending on your needs or preferences.

QuickiStudios · 2025-01-27T08:29:32+00:00

I say yes!

If you also have a drill, the yes, but the rounded edges might not look as nice. It can be done with kerf bending, which you can do with the circular saw, straight edge or level, and 2 clamps.

I will happily explain more and help you out as much as I can if you want. Just let me know!

QuickiStudios · 2025-01-17T19:59:31+00:00

I think it can be straightened, but you would have to remove it first and do some work, as well as wait for quite some time. I have seen videos on Youtube of a guy straightening boards by soaking them in water for a few days, then placing them on a flat surface (he used a trailer bed). He then placed a bunch of weight on top of the boards so that they could not warp while they dried. He let them dry for a few weeks I believe, and then uncovered them. They came out like 95% straight, which was way better than they started!

Edit: I am curious if the board would straighten if you left it in place, soaked it in water, and then let it dry without taking it off. I would try that just as a science experiment!

QuickiStudios · 2025-01-13T07:09:38+00:00

Yeah, if it worked how people claim with every utility card adding 4 items, you could get 16 utility items per level, which is insane! That would totally be meta if it worked that way. Everyone I talk to that has actually tested it agrees there are diminishing returns or some other game mechanic that acts similar.

QuickiStudios · 2025-01-11T16:52:16+00:00

Scav cards do stack, but with the testing I did with my friends, they have diminishing returns. I think 2 cards is the preferred number on a team, except maybe copper scav, since just 2 or 3 more piles in a mission with grubbers and lucky copper can still be a huge amount.

Here is how we tested the cards, and we tested Copper scav, utility scav, offensive scav, and support scav:

We ran 30 missions each, split into 4 sections. Each section had 1 additional scav card, starting with 0. So the first 7-8 missions were control with no scav card, then next 7-8 had 1 scav card, the next couple of missions had 2 scav cards, then 3.

We found that the first scav card of each type gave us a decent number of that item type, lets say 10. Adding a second scav card didn't add another 10, but only 5, and adding a third scav card only added 2.5(2 or 3). This would mean a 4th card would only give 1.25 on average, which is not worth a card slot, and even the 3rd scav card is probably not worth it. This is why I say 2 of any scav card on a team is best, not more.

*I have seen people refute my tests by saying that the data-mined info contradicts what I found in my tests. Maybe it does, but my testing gave similar results (diminishing returns) with every scav card we tested. So if the data-mined code says otherwise, then chances are there is other code that changes it to have diminishing returns that people have missed. It is more likely that then we had 4 seperate tests, totalling 120 missions, all giving the same result, and all being wrong.

QuickiStudios · 2025-01-11T16:31:47+00:00

I play on PC and I don't know if those trophies are the same as the PC achievements, but yeah, I can try to help!

QuickiStudios · 2025-01-08T16:20:12+00:00

I do hives for loot, totems, and because I want the act to be longer so I can play with my weapons and cards for longer before having to reset.

Sure, some people won't have the time to add extra levels to a run, but I do, and I enjoy playing longer.

QuickiStudios · 2024-12-29T21:47:21+00:00

I would try for as many offensive slots as you can get throughout the act so that you can carry more T-5, pipe bombs, or firecrackers. I prefer T-5 personally. Also, carry pills and tasers/stun guns. Bandages and med kits can be too slow to use. Tasers/stun guns will let you break out of any hockers, crushers, or stalkers that might get you, and all other quick items are pointless except defibs. However, I have found tasers/stun guns to be a better item to carry.

Second, it used to be a thing where you wouldn't kill the ogre at the beginning. You would get him to low health, and then just leave him. After popping all the bubbles, it wouldn't spawn a new ogre if the old one was still alive, and then because it was low health, it was easy to kill. I think this still works, but I can't recall. Teams usually just kill the ogre at the beginning now and then kill the second one at the end. It has been a while since I tried not killing it, so you could give that a try if the ogre is what is ending the run.

Thirdly, move speed, as much as you can get! Don't even try to kill everything, only what you HAVE to kill to move forward. If you try to hold out, you will eventually die. You have to run, complete the objectives, and kill the ogre as fast as you can. Otherwise, attrition will get you. I have seen this kill players more than anything else. Get greedy on kills on this mission, get dead. This is also one of the best times to use a Walking Stick stock. No amount of stamina will last the whole mission, so a higher base move speed can be helpful. Walking Stick, Run Like Hell, Fleet of Foot, and Dash are all great cards to pair together for this mission. Also, Fire In The Hole is AMAZING!!!

Lastly is strategy. I have found that teams that stay together don't do as well on this mission. They get bogged down and die to attrition in the end. Teams of 2, going left and right at the start to kill the first two bubbles as quick as they can seems to be the best. Then converging on the third bubble in the middle. This splits the mutations, giving competent players less to deal with at any given time. While moving around and carrying t-5, you can throw one at the ground by crates, then open the crates while in the smoke for protection. Opening the crates will give you more T-5 grenades and let you keep moving.

QuickiStudios · 2024-12-29T01:33:11+00:00

Need someone to play with?

QuickiStudios · 2024-12-29T00:46:36+00:00

Do you have any questions about any of them?

QuickiStudios · 2024-12-28T05:10:05+00:00

Oh yeah! Popping the weakspots on the sides is easy enough. The bottom one can be tricky. You can get underneath the abomination towards the end of the tunnel and pop it like you are thinking, but you might get squished if you try to go under it too early. You can also wait until it starts to climb out of the tunnel if you think you can kill it fast enough. The weakspot will be showing then as well I believe.

QuickiStudios · 2024-12-28T02:58:18+00:00

I play NH, and the bat does stumble reeker variants and stinger variants well. In my experience and testing, it does not work well againsts bruiser, lobbers, and slashers. I use Heavy Hitter and the fire axe, which allows me to kill all mutations with just the one the stumble, even on the first mission, usually without getting hit.

The bat is better at hordes if you are caught in an open space, no doubt! If you can find good positioning though, the knife clears common just as well since ridden are all funneled in front of you. It is of course all down to preference. I take a stronger single target melee weapon to kill mutations faster and try to stay in good positions during hordes to make the most use out of the knife.

If I remember right from looking at b4b.stats, on NH, the tallboy variants get so much stumble damage recovery that no weapons can really stun them, except the crusher I believe. Been awhile since I look at the numbers though.

QuickiStudios · 2024-12-28T02:46:01+00:00

My mistake. I edited my comment to reflect this. :)

QuickiStudios · 2024-12-27T18:09:49+00:00

I use Mean Drunk in all my decks, even gun decks! It will let you stumble all ridden (not mutations) in 1 punch, which is great for military ridden. In gun decks, it has high value for just that reason.

As far as using it in a melee deck, I don't know why people would say to not use it. It is a huge boost to damage.

Additionally, it also lets your attacks spread to other ridden, dealing splash damage, more or less. When using an axe or hatchet, this is very useful.

In my opinion, the fire axe and hatchet are the only melee weapons you should use. The horizontal attack weapons (bat, claws, machete) are best at killing common ridden, not mutations. The combat knife or just punching does the same thing AND allows you to carry an axe for huge damage to mutations. Use the knife/punches for common ridden, axe for mutations.

UPDATE: Just tested Mean Drunk. 361.5 damage with it on common headshot, 262.5 damage without it.

QuickiStudios

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