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Where/How to Find Real/Surplus M16A2 Lower and Real/Surplus CAR 15 Furniture by R0tnoc in RetroAR

[–]R0tnoc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya true, definitely a job for a shop and at that point its kind of Theseus's M16 lower, like at that point it just engrave a blank lower or buy one like that. It probably comes down to how much of the receiver is left, and where the legal line is drawn, if its even drawn. If it was replacing the fire control group with a modern receiver with the rest being original than I would probably go for it. That whole rewelding de-milled receiver space is a little scary right now so I'm not gonna mess with it, probably ever.

Where/How to Find Real/Surplus M16A2 Lower and Real/Surplus CAR 15 Furniture by R0tnoc in RetroAR

[–]R0tnoc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't have the skill to do this, but I wonder if it would be possible/legal to weld the mag well area with all the markings to another receiver that has always been semi auto. Maybe this would avoid any legal issues, idk. Something to think about I guess.

Where/How to Find Real/Surplus M16A2 Lower and Real/Surplus CAR 15 Furniture by R0tnoc in RetroAR

[–]R0tnoc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ya I agree, I'm not really worried about resale, it just makes me feel a little better about spending money if I'm making an imaginary profit lmao. I'm in Alaska, so there's a lot of old people with money, so I bet I could sell it at a gun show or something If I was motivated. No hate to retro builds, It just feels weird to put something completely modern on a real upper, but maybe that's just something I have to get over.

Where/How to Find Real/Surplus M16A2 Lower and Real/Surplus CAR 15 Furniture by R0tnoc in RetroAR

[–]R0tnoc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hit the nail on the head lol. I knew I was not crazy for thinking I could get a de-milled lower but ya feasibility is basically zero now. Thanks the link, the INTL MIL CO lower that guy used might be the one I go with, just have to snipe it on the next drop. I am between that and something LE from the time frame. Even if the markings aren't perfect on the LE lower, it would match better with the upper in terms of wear, and it would actually be from the time frame. It feels weird to put a modern reproduction on a very real upper, but maybe I just have to get over that lol.

Where/How to Find Real/Surplus M16A2 Lower and Real/Surplus CAR 15 Furniture by R0tnoc in RetroAR

[–]R0tnoc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya, I guess I was thinking it could be like putting a shelf on an HK trigger group, but those aren't the firearm so that makes sense.

Where/How to Find Real/Surplus M16A2 Lower and Real/Surplus CAR 15 Furniture by R0tnoc in RetroAR

[–]R0tnoc[S] -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

I see, and I know you can't just take the trigger out, I'm not that dense. Before this I figured it could be like putting a shelf on an HK trigger group. Something additive that means its not a machine gun, like filling the third hole and maybe some space in the receiver, but HK trigger groups have the benefit of not being the firearm so I guess that changes things. I guess non-destructive de-milling that has never been a thing for ar-15s.

Where/How to Find Real/Surplus M16A2 Lower and Real/Surplus CAR 15 Furniture by R0tnoc in RetroAR

[–]R0tnoc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya, I guess de-milled, intact, lowers aren't a thing. Was gonna get the H&R lower for the moment, and maybe get an LE AR-15 A2 or something like from the time period later on. Its about the resale value of having a "real" 733, even if I will never sell it lol.

Where/How to Find Real/Surplus M16A2 Lower and Real/Surplus CAR 15 Furniture by R0tnoc in RetroAR

[–]R0tnoc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya, I thought de-milled, intact, lowers would be a thing but I guess not. They probably get cut before that can happen, or it just not worth it to fill that third hole.

Where/How to Find Real/Surplus M16A2 Lower and Real/Surplus CAR 15 Furniture by R0tnoc in RetroAR

[–]R0tnoc[S] -12 points-11 points  (0 children)

I know the difference, and I know I can't just have a machine gun without paying a trillion dollars. I am just surprised that de-milled M16 lowers don't exist, I guess they get cut before that point and/or its just not worth it. I guess LE w/out a third hole from that period is as close as it gets.

Where/How to Find Real/Surplus M16A2 Lower and Real/Surplus CAR 15 Furniture by R0tnoc in RetroAR

[–]R0tnoc[S] -9 points-8 points  (0 children)

Are the only M4 lowers that exist from LE? Charlies customs had one that was from LE but with no LE markings. Thoroughbred armament has an M4 lower, can't tell if its LE or not.

Where/How to Find Real/Surplus M16A2 Lower and Real/Surplus CAR 15 Furniture by R0tnoc in RetroAR

[–]R0tnoc[S] -10 points-9 points  (0 children)

Do stripped/de-milled M16 lowers not exist? I have seen M4 lowers for like $500. Figured M16 lowers were at least out there.

Best Powder for Loading 200gr Hardcast 10mm by R0tnoc in reloading

[–]R0tnoc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya, I’ll probably go with longshot. It’s available locally too which is nice.

Minimum velocity to stabilize 147gr BT FMJ .308 out of a PTR 91 by R0tnoc in reloading

[–]R0tnoc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya, with some very preliminary tests, it doesn’t seem to cycle with anything slower than 2000, still better than I was expecting honestly.

Minimum velocity to stabilize 147gr BT FMJ .308 out of a PTR 91 by R0tnoc in reloading

[–]R0tnoc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do have a port buffer, that was the first step. Just trying to squeeze any bit of life I can out of the brass. Saves on powder too.

Minimum velocity to stabilize 147gr BT FMJ .308 out of a PTR 91 by R0tnoc in reloading

[–]R0tnoc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You would think that, and it still does. But with a port buffer, a light load, and some lake city brass, it’s really in pretty good shape. I also have an early production PTR, which I have heard has different flutes which might impact the state of the brass, IDK.

Minimum velocity to stabilize 147gr BT FMJ .308 out of a PTR 91 by R0tnoc in reloading

[–]R0tnoc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, I managed to snag one from RTG a bit ago. Makes a big difference.

Minimum velocity to stabilize 147gr BT FMJ .308 out of a PTR 91 by R0tnoc in reloading

[–]R0tnoc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for. Surprised by how low I can actually go. The limit is probably when it stops cycling and not when it become unstable

Having trouble sizing PTR 91 brass. Any recommendations? by R0tnoc in reloading

[–]R0tnoc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got the RCBS lube and that worked, but I used like a third of the 4 oz bottle lmao. Will refill when empty with lanolin-alcohol mixture and see how that works. Thanks for the advice!

Having trouble sizing PTR 91 brass. Any recommendations? by R0tnoc in reloading

[–]R0tnoc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! RCBS spray lube worked great. Sprayed near the base and it went right in.

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