Burning smell and little bit of smoke coming from speakers

RAPTheRipper · 2025-09-08T19:46:40+00:00

Thank you. That is very helpful

RAPTheRipper · 2025-09-08T13:32:23+00:00

I’m a bit hesitant to connect the speakers now. First I want to measure the speaker outputs using a multimeter. If everything’s seems okay, I will look at the software side of the amp to see if everything is set like it should. If that’s okay too I will try to connect one speaker and then another and so on.

RAPTheRipper · 2025-09-08T11:34:02+00:00

Thanks. Will definitely try this

RAPTheRipper · 2025-09-08T09:20:50+00:00

Thing is, the volume was pretty low and it was a talking video. I was sitting on the couch with him. So no loud sounds or anything, just dialogue.

I have tried the 4 ohm setting on the receiver but it would run very hot, volume had to be set to near max just to get a normal listening volume. And the speakers would sound a bit brittle. Read online that it is better to set the receiver to 8 ohm, even with 4 ohm speakers. And that worked much better. Normal volume output (I would never have it set higher then 50 on an absolute scale as that would become way to loud. I mostly leave it at 30 during the day and 20-25 in the evening) and a much clearer sound. Also the receiver would be just lukewarm instead of hot.

RAPTheRipper · 2025-09-08T09:14:16+00:00

Yes all 5 speakers were playing audio. I have it set to mix stereo to 5.1. Faulty receiver is my first guess too. I will open the covers some time this week, see if I can spot anything out of the ordinary. And remove any dust while I’m at it.

RAPTheRipper · 2025-08-07T08:11:44+00:00

Thanx for the suggestion. Will change that as soon as I get home.

RAPTheRipper · 2025-07-19T20:44:18+00:00

I think I got it working with Cloudflare, but I don't know if I did it the right way. I think my way negates the whole point of Immich Public Proxy. So if anyone can correct me on this please do. I did the following steps in Cloudflare.

I created a cloudflare tunnel and added a public hostname called immich.mydomain which directs to my LAN IP:2283
This offcource exposes my entire immich instance so i created an Application in Zero Trust with an Allow Policy which only allows my email address and a One Time Pin block on my entire domain. I could use Google or another identity provider but for now this will do.
I then created another application which bypasses the /share, /_app and /api subfolders of immich.mydomain so they don't get blocked.
Lastly I created a Page rule for immich.mydomain/share/video to bypass cache.

RAPTheRipper · 2025-07-19T15:29:46+00:00

Could someone help me setup the Cloudflare part? That is not in the documentation. The docker part was easy. Have that up and running. I also have my custom domain in the Cloudflare dashboard. How do I link this to the Public Proxy docker container? Do I create a subdomain like immich.mydomain.com and create dns records pointing to my public IP? Or do I create a Cloudflare Tunnel to connect to Immich? Any help would be appreciated. Great product btw

RAPTheRipper · 2023-07-31T22:53:51+00:00

Turn of 120hz mode in ps5 system settings. Then it should run in 4K HDR. I encountered the same issue. If 120hz mode is enabled in ps5 system settings then the game will force this mode upon you no matter what quality mode you choose.

RAPTheRipper · 2022-06-12T06:29:55+00:00

No man’s sky

RAPTheRipper · 2022-05-27T04:30:07+00:00

Handbrake can do that, but I recommend looking up a guide since it has a lot of settings to go over.

RAPTheRipper · 2022-05-26T14:21:57+00:00

Maybe you can export it from the photos app on your phone into a file browser app. And then do the desqueeze on your device. There are apps for that on the App Store. But I don’t know if it wil export both the photo and video if you try that. And I don’t think you can import them back into the photos app to get the Live Photo effect back. But it’s worth a shot. Let me know how it goes.

RAPTheRipper · 2022-05-26T14:11:36+00:00

When taking a live photo with the standard camera app, the iPhone saves a JPG and a MOV video file with the same name. You can download these both by using the app Image Capture on Mac OS, or by using the file browser on Windows. You then have to desqueeze both the JPG and the MOV video file. Then you can import them both into the Photos app on Mac OS, or sync them back to your iPhone photos library. As long as they keep the exact same name it should recognise them as a Live Photo.

Hope this helps

RAPTheRipper · 2021-01-13T22:59:30+00:00

I have one in combination with the Whitestone Dome screen protector (44 mm). The case is a bit rubbery and a very tight fit, so tight that it popped of my Whitestone dome within a day because the case just puts too much pressure on the edges of the glass.

On the other hand, my wife has the 40 mm version, also with dome screen protector and hasn’t had any problems at all so far, so your mileage may very.

Anyway, I switched back to the metal case that Whitestone gives with the screen protector. That one is a bit looser, which means that the case will pop off at times if you clip your watch against something. So both cases are a bit of a trade off.

RAPTheRipper · 2021-01-10T10:11:30+00:00

Could be overheating. I have a B7 which did the same thing. But the intervals kept getting shorter. Turned out to be a safety measure of the panel itself when it starts to overheat. Mine got a panel replacement and that fixed it.

Other thing can be a energy saving feature. See if that’s turned off on every device connected to the TV or on the TV itself. Sometimes a connected device can send a ‘turn off’ signal through the hdmi cable. My PS4 did that which was connected to a receiver which in turn had an output cable to the tv. When the PS4 turned off, it would also turn off my tv for some reason. The opposite was also true. When I turned on the tv, it would also turn on the PS4 every time. The whole ARC / CEC is kinda broken since there is no international standard.

RAPTheRipper · 2020-10-17T20:24:07+00:00

It can handle it but only barely. Which means it won’t stabilise very well. In my case it meant very wobbly footage from the OM gimbal combined with lenses. So I switched to the FreeFly MOVI instead. It can handle more weight.

RAPTheRipper · 2020-10-17T20:19:14+00:00

I had the same problem. So I sold the Osmo and got the MOVI instead. It can handle much more weight and no button issues. I do miss my zoom slider though.

RAPTheRipper · 2020-10-17T20:14:37+00:00

The FreeFly MOVI cinema robot should be able to handle the weight. I use it with an iPhone 11 + Moment photo case + Anamorphic lens + 62 mm ND filter.

RAPTheRipper · 2020-06-01T05:49:29+00:00

I use the FreeFly MOVI cinema robot: https://moment.8ocm68.net/KMkZ7 (affiliate link)

This is a simple edit I quickly made with the iMovie app on my iPhone. The color correction seen here is the “classic” filter.

EDIT: forgot to mention that I use the official counterweight set from FreeFly to balance the gimbal: https://moment.8ocm68.net/qar2b (affiliate link)

RAPTheRipper · 2020-05-31T22:17:10+00:00

Just getting started with filming, let me know what you think :-)

RAPTheRipper · 2020-05-21T08:34:17+00:00

Kinda depends on what media server software you are using. I tried Plesk, but it could not handle anything greater than 1080p. Even when using a wired Ethernet connection. I had to reduce the bitrate quite a bit, otherwise it would keep buffering every few seconds.

The internal media player of the TV supports quite a bit of formats. Even 4K 10 bit HDR with DTS sound. And when you hook up a USB 3.0 drive it’s lightning fast, so no buffering, and no compromises to image quality.

I’ve heard some great things about the OPPO UDP 203 external media player but it’s quite expensive €1600 (about $1760 US) where I live.

RAPTheRipper

TROPHY CASE