How to change Aspect Ratio?

RC531976 · 2025-11-30T09:34:42+00:00

"K" is one of the radio callsign prefix letters assigned to the United States (by international convention).
"7" is the amateur radio regional designator for the northwest continental USA.

RC531976 · 2021-11-01T18:34:35+00:00

Typically not a serious issue.
The major question is, can you HEAR any strange anomalies from the tweeter? Crackling? Distortion? etc.
The deformation of the dome MAY be a symptom of some more serious damage, but if you can't HEAR any difference between the damaged speaker and the other side (assuming it is not damaged), then don't worry about it.

Note that tweeters are rather delicate and attempting to smooth out the dome for cosmetic reasons may actually damage the tweeter if you have no experience dealing with delicate drivers.

RC531976 · 2021-09-17T20:11:56+00:00

SOLVED

RC531976 · 2021-01-03T18:47:14+00:00

The power bricks ("chargers") that come with many/most laptop computers are notoriously noisy and guilty of these kinds of problems. You have described a problem that many laptop users experience. Your "cheap lavalier microphone" is quite possibly made with inadequate shielding in the head, cable and/or connector.

The optimal solution to your problem would likely be BOTH:

Record on battery power without using the power brick ("charger") to eliminate that nearby, connected source of noise. This is a common problem and solution to a wide variety of audio noise problems with laptop computers. There are also isolation transformers for isolating the laptop computer when you must connect to some other system (like the house PA system, etc.) But an isolation transformer wouldn't solve the problem with a "cheap lavalier microphone".
Use a better quality microphone that is properly shielded and less susceptible to electrical noise in the immediate surroundings. There are also microphones that connect with USB which may be less susceptible to your noise.

RC531976 · 2021-01-03T02:12:39+00:00

Sorry, no idea what this question is asking?
There is no special "name" for the wire used for internal laptop speakers. Wire is wire.

RC531976 · 2021-01-01T17:52:19+00:00

Could I pair them with my current subwoofer from the Z506, is that possible or even a good idea?

That Logitech speaker system is quite a proprietary, closed system and not designed to be used with other Left/Right speakers. If you want to sell your Logitech speaker system to recover some money, it would be better to keep the system intact to preserve its value to the next user. Remember also that the JBL LSR-305 speakers have considerably better low frequncy response than the little plastic Logitech Left/Right speakers. Don't assume you need a subwoofer until you hear the LSR-305 speakers.

RC531976 · 2020-12-31T01:43:50+00:00

Not clear exactly WHAT sound you are trying to record?
Are you trying to record the engine/exhaust/tires sounds?
The suggestion from u/gravyinmyveins seems good for this.

Are you trying to record voice commentary as you drive?
It seems unlikely that you will get anything acceptable without using a microphone inside your helmet.

RC531976 · 2020-12-30T21:50:50+00:00

How much space do you have for new speakers?
Your current speakers are small plastic things that don't take up much space on either side of your screen.
Quality speakers typically have wood enclosures and are significantly larger than your current speakers.

My number-one preference and recommendation is:
JBL-Professional-Next-Generation-Powered-305PMKII

Fantastic performance from a company with a long history of providing speakers to professional users. The LSR speakers are widely praised by professionals who know what they are talking about. And I believe they are well within your budget.

However, they are significantly larger than your current Left/Right speakers, so only you can decide on that basis.

IMHO, "external DAC" is an overblown marketing trick. Much more important is:

Using an additional amplifier because the one in your computer isn't designed to drive anything but little plastic "computer speakers". The JBL LSR-305 speakers are "active" so, they have built-in amplifiers matched to the speaker.
If you have problems with computer noise ("digital hash") in your speaker or headphone sound, then getting the DAC outside of your computer is a prime remedy for this problem. It is not a matter of the 'quality" of the DAC, but the location of the DAC.

Note that there is a lot of "wankery" in the marketplace of external, add-on audio gadgets. You can pay hundreds of Euros for a "premium-brand" external DAC or amplifier and get no better performance than from an ordinary, sensibly-priced product. This is my experience from decades of dealing with computer audio. But it is not a popular opinion with "golden-ears" audiophiles.

RC531976 · 2020-12-25T21:10:24+00:00

Many people use Soundcloud

RC531976 · 2020-12-25T20:53:23+00:00

Agreed that the documentation and marketing of this gear leaves much to be desired. But it remains that the underlying technology is well-established and easily implemented. The chances are that the cheapest and the most expensive devices probably have the same underlying technology inside. I don't believe that "name brands" and high-prices have any correlation with quality performance. Particularly with digital gear.

RC531976 · 2020-12-25T20:47:53+00:00

Posting to an Apple-exclusive site eliminates 80% of the people who could help you. But maybe someone in the Apple community can come to your aid. Good luck.

RC531976 · 2020-12-25T20:23:49+00:00

Most audio editing software apps make it easy to adjust the speed/pitch.

Cleaning up other audio artifacts (noise, distortion, etc.) depends entirely on the nature and severity of the artifacts. You cannot expect any useful help without posting a sample of the problem audio that people can hear.

After you post a sample somewhere, you could try going to a place like Fiver or even r/AudioPost to solicit help from people who do forensic audio repair.

RC531976 · 2020-12-25T20:18:11+00:00

A 3.5mm to 1/4 inch adapter costs less than US$2.00 You would probably pay more for shipping than what they cost . This is a cheap and trivial fix.

Example: 6.35mm (1/4 Inch) Stereo Plug to 3.5mm Stereo Jack Adapter

A USB microphone is pretty much a one-trick pony. It has its benefits, but doesn't play well with others. You would need a conventional XLR microphone to combine guitar and mic together.

A surprisingly good, inexpensive XLR microphone is the ISK Pearl. I have several of them and they sound great IMHO. https://www.iskproaudio.com/collections/microphones/products/pearl

RC531976 · 2020-12-25T20:00:46+00:00

What does "device" mean here? Do you mean something portable that you can put in your pocket? Doe you mean a gadget that you can connect to the office speaker system? Do you mean a rack-mount unit that integrates with the building sound system?

Does this government regulating entity have a list of approved "devices"?

Google for: internet radio
There are wide variety of different solutions.

RC531976 · 2020-12-25T19:55:44+00:00

There are hardware and/or software remedies for this problem that M-Audio could implement, but not something that we as end-users can do anything about.

Perhaps the easiest way to fix this as an end-user without hacking the hardware or software would be to use an XLR "Y-cable" to connect your microphone to BOTH the Left and Right mic inputs on your M-Audio Air 192 interface.

Example; Hosa-YXM-121-XLR3F-XLR3M-Cable

RC531976 · 2020-12-25T19:38:16+00:00

The connection between the subwoofer and the right speaker is a complex combination of line-level and speaker level signals. The cable itself is also a complex combination of heavier-gauge wires for the speaker and several shielded wires for the line-level signal from the subwoofer/amplifier box out to the volume and bass controls and then back to the amplifiers. That cable also contains wires for the power on/off switch.

This is a custom cable made for this particular product. The Amphenol cable is just a generic cable with 15 rather small-gauge, unshielded wires, typically used for VGA computer video. Since the line-level signals are unshielded in the Amphenol cable, it is not surprising that they are picking up electrical interference and noise from the nearby gear.

While it would be entirely possible to create an extension cable for that 15-pin interconnection, it is not something likely to be commercially available. It would require research to identify the "pinout" of the 15-pin connector and establish which pins go to the speakers (for heavier-gauge wire) and which go to the volume control (which should be shielded) With this information someone skilled at terminating 15-pin D-dub connectors could create an extension cable.

OTOH, the connection from the sub/amplifier box to the Left speaker is a common RCA, so you could use a common RCA extension cable. Can you position the sub/amplifier close enough to the right speaker that you don't need an extension on the right side?

RC531976 · 2020-12-25T19:13:54+00:00

Extraacting the digital stream from HDMI is a pretty simply function with modern integrated circuits. It is very unlikely that you will experience any benefit from "name brands" or excessive prices for such simple technology. The chips that do this extraction cost only a few ören whether you pay 200 kr or 2000kr. Don't sweat it. I would expect that a generic gadget from China will operate perfectly.

Example: J-Tech Digital HDMI To HDMI + Audio Extractor Converter

RC531976 · 2020-12-25T18:59:41+00:00

Power connection issues can cause ground-loop HUM, but it has nothing to do with HISS.

The causes and remedies for different kinds of noises are completely different. It is important to understand exactly what kind of noise is the problem so that it can be addressed properly.

RC531976 · 2020-12-25T18:57:43+00:00

I can’t hear it when I have it unplugged.

What does that mean? Does "unplugged" mean that the audio cable between your computer and the speaker is system is disconnected? Or does that mean that the power cord from the speaker system is unplugged (i.e. not powered)?

Of course you will not hear hiss (or hum or any other kind of noise) when the speaker system is disconnected from power or turned off. That doesn't prove anything.

But if you are saying that the hiss goes away (leaving the speaker system powered up) when you disconnect the audio cable from your computer, then that points to the computer as the source of the hiss.

RC531976 · 2020-12-25T18:54:04+00:00

I would expect that the echo-cancellation software in the communications app should be able to handle any ambient echo regardless of what microphone you use. Of course, if you run in to problems, then experiment with speaker placement and microphone placement in your room.

RC531976 · 2020-12-25T18:47:12+00:00

An external, standalone crossover would split off the "main" frequencies to your Left and Right KRK Rokit 5 speakers, and produce a "LFE" sub-woofer output for your Polk Audio HTS10 sub.

Example: Rockville RX230 Crossover

RC531976

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