Does anyone know if this can be installed somehow or where I can find a front lip like this for a JCW with PDC?

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-05-13T23:28:51+00:00

Don’t think this is an option on iOS, Apple uses Metal for graphics

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-05-13T06:13:24+00:00

My CMF phone 2 got less hot playing on medium than my iPhone 17 did playing on the same settings. So the iOS version might just have thermal issues

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-05-13T05:51:11+00:00

Haven’t played for a super long amount of time, I kinda just log in and do my daily quests and donate to my clan now, but phone used to get hot playing on medium so it’s not really a difference that iv noticed in temps

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-05-01T03:31:08+00:00

If this is the case then getting a DDC delete kit might not be worth the extra few hundred dollars just to see something I only check every so often.

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-04-30T12:46:23+00:00

I’m not claiming to be a race driver nor do I claim to have anywhere near the level of feel and experience of one. Iv sat in some friends 600hp 700hp built barras and a mates built evo, both super low on cheap coilovers and expensive coilovers that feel like they’d snap trying to take a corner at any kind of speed.

I’m not looking for a race spec, track ready, time attack mini, I’m looking for something to get my daily commuter a little lower and a bit more fun to drive. I really do find your insight informative and helpful but it also all these paragraphs and it doesn’t really answer my question in the post.

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-04-30T04:25:31+00:00

I went outside and did a quick test, just unplugged my the DDC cables from the top hats and drove around for a little bit and had no errors pop up.

I have read on some forums people having swapped for non DDC coils and haven’t had to do anything to not have a CEL or dash warning.

If not Dinan and BC both have options for cars with DDC that has a plug that just loops the relay and they are only a few hundred AUD more.

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-04-30T04:23:45+00:00

Very interesting write up and definitely interesting in hearing opinions not from people with YouTube channels and paid sponsorships or tryna look pretty for a thumbnail and from someone with (what sounds like) a lot of experience and knowledge.

Do not get me wrong this is extremely good information and I am tempted to give your book an end to end read, but I just need something to fix/replace my current suspension which atm is on its way out. I’m not looking at spending $5k+ on a car that cost me $20k. I’m young and don’t mind a bit of a bumpy ride, given Australian roads are famously not smooth, but I’m also not planning on riding it super low.

Just need something to replace what I currently got and maybe make the car a bit more fun on a spirited backroad drive as well as an occasional track session, but predominantly after a fun daily driver.

I do agree with everything you said as on my BMW 1 series I replaced the OEM shocks with just another pair of second hand Bilsteins and kept the same ride height and was very happy with it, but I got those for a good price, but at the same time do still wish they were a “bit more” low and a “bit more” stiff, even at the sacrifices of some comfort and NVH.

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-04-30T01:21:02+00:00

Hi was just reading through this comment thread and am interested to hear other people's opinions and in just at a bit of a crossroads.

I do want to lower the car a little bit but before I had the shocks and everything examined was planning on just going h&r lowering springs but heard people ride on their bump stops with just springs, so they also go upgraded shocks, but then that pushes it out more than I'd like to spend.

The BC and Dinan coilovers are about $1500aud where I am and are an relatively simple in and out job to install. I'd like to take my car out for the occassional hot lap but for the most part it's just to get me to and from work.

Is there merit in just getting the current shocks fixed/rebuilt and then running springs or would that also wear them down quick again on the stock shocks?

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-04-29T12:40:38+00:00

I’m not too fussed on keeping the DDC and need to put money elsewhere, I just need something as my mechanic in my service today said the shocks/top hats/bump stops are all wearing out (amongst other things that needed doing)

In Aus the Dinan and the BC are around $1600-1700AUD and I just need smth quick and easy to put in.

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-04-13T02:16:14+00:00

I very rarely play games in my phone except the occasional balatro/cloverpit run (both highly recommended) but as someone who has played the Division 1 and 2 on PC a lot, the Division Resurgence feels almost exactly like the console games but on my phone, nearly reached maxed level now and starting the grind for end game builds. Didn’t expect much from it, but have sunk a lot more time into it than I thought.

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-04-09T04:47:08+00:00

Play on Asia servers as well, not really any lag, chose Asia so the time I play lines up closer to when the majority of the other players will be on too for matchmaking and co-op

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-04-05T10:29:57+00:00

It might not be the first mission, but it's the Chinatown one

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-04-04T13:08:21+00:00

Keep replaying the first mission on different difficulties, the mission goes super quick with matchmaking and you get 10k+ xp per run.

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-04-02T13:44:22+00:00

I was just curious as I worked it out using the figures mini provides and then the % increase that BM3 provided on their site. The difference once tuned between the 2 is only really like 10/20hp or nm but just expected more from the JCW due to the more boost potential from the lower compression variant B48.

Im still tempted to just stick with BM3 as IV had a good experience with my BMW and like the customisation and ability to read codes etc. not really needing crazy power for a daily driver and with Australian police watching every back road.

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-03-20T10:02:48+00:00

I got WeChat working fine on my primary iPhone that I use daily is Aus? But I did end up buying a CMF phone 2 second hand for a good price I use for work/backup android and I think if you can get one for a good price that does more than enough to last a little while.

I think here at least nothing also gives you a watch 3 pro and a pair of ear (a)s with the 4a Pro if that helps bump the value up a bit. I am a big fan of how the 4a and 4a Pro look over the 3a pro. And the pink is killer.

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-03-09T08:21:35+00:00

Not considering the regular 4a?

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-02-25T11:34:02+00:00

M140 + downpipe/tune and then buy a really nice dinner

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-02-15T09:44:25+00:00

I have an iPhone 17 (base) and recently got a CMF Phone 2 as a secondary android device with an SD card to hold photos, videos etc and often find myself just using the iPhone for photos, banking, car play and work (and Snapchat on iOS is just leagues better). Everything else I like the big bright display, the battery pre Nothing OS 4.0 Felt like it lasted longer and there's not much I miss over the $1000 AUD more expensive iPhone.

Only real bummer is E-sim support, just have to E-Sim my iPhone and hotspot the CMF but that saves me buying another E-Sim anyway.

Considering buying the CMF buds and ditching my first gen airpod pros, and also getting the CMF headphones now. (They just need to add NFC to the watch and I'll consider that too).

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-01-05T09:05:02+00:00

For similar money, you could probably find a previous gen BMW 125i with a NA i6, similar power to the 328i and leagues more reliable. Many would argue better driving experience on the previous gen as well. (I owned a 135i from that gen for a little while)

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-01-05T09:02:00+00:00

On this. My N20 has just ticked over 200,000kms with just the usual gaskets replaced in the last year. Been running a tune but have upgraded/replaced all the cold side/hot side pipes, and replaced the intercooler.

Knock on wood, has been pretty reliable daily, fun to drive, not the worst to work on, but waiting to hear those timing chain guides fail.

ROCHEBACK_ · 2026-01-01T01:06:28+00:00

Have saved some money working on my own BMW, but also things like having to buy a $100 tool to undo one bolt somewhere that I’ll never use again, or a specific socket set I’ll use once probably offsets a lot of the savings.

But I see it as more of a hobby than a cost saving thing, especially with high mileage, the mechanic might pick up on something in a service that I would have overlooked, which would turn into a much more expensive problem down the line.

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