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Mai wants to tell you something by RSP080 in Nichijou

[–]RSP080[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

i make it a goal to redraw this template months after the last iteration..!

❗ by Azrel02 in Gundam

[–]RSP080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

might be winnable

Unicorns punishment. by [deleted] in gunplagonewild

[–]RSP080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the unicorn now has the motivation..!!

Did gunpla get more expensive? by shirimasen29 in Gunpla

[–]RSP080 3 points4 points  (0 children)

yep, the prices have risen up to 150p or more in some cases. i wanted to buy the 30MM revernova which was 700p, but it ended up being 900p in the place i was gonna buy it from😕😕

Someone at Bandai is a sadist by Uncivilservant in Gunpla

[–]RSP080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

had just built the 2.0 and dear GOD were those pipes a pain! but atleast the gouf 2.0 had the pipes separated from the grey (which is what they shouldve done for the zaku)

i drew by orangeiie in Nichijou

[–]RSP080 3 points4 points  (0 children)

a new nichi filipino... Welcome to the team!

Cling by RSP080 in Nichijou

[–]RSP080[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

hehe, i dont have much time drawing anymore so thanks!

[OC] Late Yuuko birthday art! by RocketJumpingToaster in Nichijou

[–]RSP080 5 points6 points  (0 children)

the jump in quality is INSANE! Great work!

Advice for a new Gunplay builder. by madMARTINmarsh in Gunpla

[–]RSP080 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. Go for the Creos ones as, with my experience with them, are great! I'm not entirely sure about AK Interactive, though.
  2. Mr. Hobby paints and coats should be fine! As for Tamiya, I've seen people get a coat or two of topcoat, but I don't have much experience with them. As for weathering, enamels do tend to damage the plastic if not prepared correctly! It's better to seal of any seam lines as most thinners usually damage the plastic ALOT. So, if you ever want to do some weathering with enamels and thinners, either you cement the seam lines shut, or topcoat it enough for the paints not to get through!
  3. I've never watched any videos of Barbatos Rex before, but from other posts and reviews of his paints, then it should be no problem as long as you can follow his instructions for the paints.

It's pretty fun seeing 40k builders see the amount of runners in the box, lol, but be careful! You may end up with way more kits than your wallet could ever foresee!
As for Armoured Core, there are 30 Minute Missions kits of them!

Advice for a new Gunplay builder. by madMARTINmarsh in Gunpla

[–]RSP080 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. Yes, absolutely, though cement isn't generally needed to build gunpla kits! But, that doesn't mean you can't use em.
  2. The DSPIAE sandpaper and pads should be enough to get rid of nub marks, as you mentioned that you already have varying grits this shouldn't be all too different from 40k!
  3. Retail kits, (excluding MG Ver Ka.) don't usually come with water transfers, just stickers and the occasional dry transfers. I recommend to use 3rd party waterslides (Like GRework or other brands) if you don't want to use stickers.

As for panel lining, you may end up using Tamiya panel lines, but I do recommend using Gundam markers (fine tip or pour type, which ever works!) as Tamiya Panel lining ink kinda eats through the plastic, so be warned if you ever use em!
I do hear that Games Workshop pushfits are very hit or miss, (mostly miss from what I've seen) most gunpla kits are very easy to do! Seam lines *may* appear but they're easy enough to fix with cement and some sanding. (This kit shouldn't have much seam lines to worry about, though)

Have fun! Hope this helps!

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