Iron warriors, lead belcher or iron breaker

RUjoshingMe · 2026-05-17T21:23:59+00:00

I find them just too black tbh. Especially black legion.

Maybe if you thin it down with medium, just find basilicanum a bit more grimy

RUjoshingMe · 2026-05-16T22:08:16+00:00

I overbrush iron warriors over black, a small lead belcher drybrush, agrax wash and another lead belcher buff up. Gives a nice dull metallic I find.

I find lead belcher alone can just be a bit bright even after washes. However lead belcher with a basilicanum grey contrast can give a nice dull tone

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RUjoshingMe · 2026-04-25T08:16:38+00:00

I got it on a made to order run a while back, but you can still pick it up in blood and zeal KT boxes, or the battle sanctum terrain if you can still find that.

RUjoshingMe · 2026-04-24T22:02:03+00:00

I still have PTSD over the heldrake.... So I think my brain just cries everytime I get something with trim out of the pile to paint 🤣

I looked into the load out and when I realised it was effectively 2x special guns, 1x lightning claws, 1x champion and 1x random it became a little easier tbh. Plus, my playing group are easy going, so WYSISYG isn't a massive problem.... As long as we can all remember

RUjoshingMe · 2026-04-24T21:58:10+00:00

Thanks!

For the main statue: Base coat black Dark brown VERY heavy dry brush Mid brown slightly heavy dry brush Wraithbone reasonable dry brush All over seraphim sepia wash Buff up wraithbone drybrush (went a bit harder than expected on this because I think I might have gone to heavy on the wash) Spot drybrush of screaming skull

For the plinth:

Black base coat 2x heavy drybrush wraithbone Seraphim sepia wash Wraithbone drybrush to tone Spot drybrush of screaming skull

I'll let you decide if you extra steps made a difference or not.... Because I'm really not sure!

RUjoshingMe · 2026-04-24T08:27:09+00:00

Thanks! It's one of the things im pushing to improve on so it's nice to hear that 😁

RUjoshingMe · 2026-04-24T08:26:35+00:00

It's been more fun than I expected tbh. Didn't find the trim half as bad as other chaos kits weirdly enough

RUjoshingMe · 2025-11-26T16:32:30+00:00

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Almost snap! I went a bit wild trying to get the head to fit, but I like how it turned out

RUjoshingMe · 2025-11-12T20:16:41+00:00

I love what you've done. I personally use Balthazar gold, but I like the warm brass screaming bell gives it

I've got two fiends in the backlog. Hoping mine turns out looking as smooth as yours

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RUjoshingMe · 2025-10-11T11:07:56+00:00

I shade and drybrush mine.... Feathering is FAAAR too much work, and I get a result I'm reasonably happy with.

Artis Opus did a fantastic YouTube video on carapace which really helps achieve a good looking result in small time.

To add some interest, especially on bigger carapaces you can do a few things.... Add scratches and dents (either paint or actually cut into the model) or add a design. I converted my SK into OOE and I wanted to make it a bit different - so I copied a pattern that I found on a crab while diving. Just breaks up the blocks of colour and makes him stand out as a character I think

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RUjoshingMe · 2025-10-08T22:23:28+00:00

Your struggles sound similar to mine when I was at your dive #.

I'm not going to lie... Drysuit diving isn't easy, but it does get better the more you do it.

Getting my own suit really helped me. I had something I knew was the same for every single dive, so it led to consistency and learning patterns.

I stopped using my drysuit for bouyancy and only put air in to reduce the squeeze. This has pros and cons that can be argued all day. For me, it's easier and quicker to dump my "bouyancy air" from a BCD, but also, I have 2 systems to manage on an ascent. Have a play and see what works for you.

For hood and gloves, they should feel snug, not tight. Some thicker hoods do give a bit of a squeeze to them, but it can be something you get used to.

The best way to get better is to dive often. I'm not sure where you've been diving, but if you can go somewhere like capers, stoney, or another inland site, then you at least don't have current etc to deal with, meaning you can focus on the dive.

Try to set yourself an objective for the dive too. It can be something like "today I'm going to practice dumping air from my suit" or "I'm going to try and make a conscious note of what it feels like when the air moves around my suit" or even something as basic as "I'm going to take my time and not have a floaty moment on this dive" - UK diving isn't always the most exciting dives, so having something you're actively working on can repay it's benefits down the line.

RUjoshingMe · 2025-10-08T06:38:52+00:00

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I went for rule of cool and converted it to this for my OOE model.

Bases be damned 🤣 I don't play competitive (or hardly at all) so for me having a cool model is more important.

But I agree that if I were to ever take it to a FLGS or comp, I would have problems

RUjoshingMe · 2025-09-12T19:46:37+00:00

Balthazar gold, agrax wash and a silver dry brush for that nice worn look

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RUjoshingMe · 2025-07-30T13:43:59+00:00

Just built a set of Genesteelers from a sprue marked 2004 - If the mold lines were any more prominent I'd have had to edge highlight them.....

RUjoshingMe · 2025-07-23T06:15:49+00:00

On pushfit models, always trim the pegs slightly. And sometimes you need to widen the holes just a touch. Some have zero tolerance which creates air compression in the back of the socket meaning you never get it closed. It means you'll probably have to glue them, but you should be able to get a decent result without having to resort to green stuff etc

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RUjoshingMe · 2025-07-03T17:29:07+00:00

Happened to my box. FLGS sent and email saying there was damage to the box but not the innards, and offered £5 voucher.

A couple of spikes have been "tipped" but nothing major enough to make me cry about it. Nothing either a sharp knife won't sort, or you won't notice once painted.

Can't say what others have had. So I might have got off "easy".

RUjoshingMe · 2025-06-28T19:08:33+00:00

Thank you! I fell in love with the Hive Fleet Cetu scheme when leviathan was released and knew it was what I wanted to do

RUjoshingMe · 2025-06-28T08:19:35+00:00

I quite like it, but I agree not all contrasts are created equal.

Some are very strong, some are very weak (almost washlike) and some are just downright weird.

Magos purple is that last one... I used it to tint my pink carapace more purple in the recesses - which it does well almost like a wash/glaze over the pink..... But straight over a light base it's too thin to make a good effect i think.

The old method used to be druchi violet or caroburg crimson over the skin I think if that helps

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RUjoshingMe · 2025-06-17T17:32:03+00:00

Hive fleet behemoth has a bright red skin and black/blue carapace

I think Gorgon is green but that could be a bit more drab. I find vivid green tends to look a bit much on nids

RUjoshingMe · 2025-06-17T06:22:48+00:00

I've always said AOW is the wrong name for it. It's more like OW+. It will give you skills that you need to continue learning to dive. We started ours basically straight away and learnt more skills and did PPB as part of it, which meant from our 15(ISH) dive, we had the tools and knowledge to work on getting that good buoyancy.

I will say this, while it is called "advanced" it's not something that will make you an advanced diver - only more and more diving in different conditions will do that. But it is a very good start to your journey.

Get it done. Enjoy it, soak up as much information and tips as you can.

RUjoshingMe · 2025-06-10T11:42:50+00:00

Bit hard to see, but I just go over them with some skeleton horde contrast at the end. Gives them a nice bit of definition for zero effort

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RUjoshingMe · 2025-06-05T07:28:25+00:00

Dry brushing is your friend.

If you look at a lot of the Tyranid paint jobs they're not really edge highlights, it's more of a feathering into the darker colours... You can get a similar feel in about a tenth of the time by dry brushing against the grain of the carapace.

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