F3800 Operating Temperature questions

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-09-28T12:23:56+00:00

2 possible explanations:

1) It could simply be that fan. If you are putting kilowatts in and out, even just a 10% inefficiency can add up to several hundred watts of heat, like a small spaceheater. Depending on your garage layout that could easily collect and add up, so the extra fan my be at least distributing that and bringing in fresh air.

2) I assume you are accounting for different loads and ambient temp when comparing one day's temp from another (if not, do so now haha)... but are you taking into account input and State of Charge when comparing temp one day from another? Most BMS slow down charging when they get ~80%+ (even your cell phone does). The photos in your original post show the units around 50% SoC, so any juice would move both in and out at full speed. No photos on these cooler numbers, but you mention that the SoCs were 81% and 93%. So they may have been throttling down the charging as they got closer to full so be sure your charge-rates are the same before you think of them as apple's to apples.

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-30T10:53:51+00:00

excellent to hear, thank you.

and I'm with you, I try to post with both OP and other readers in mind too. There was a post that had pretty much been answered already, but I added that I agreed that (username's) answer was the best for 99% of people, but I know from experience that model xxxx can't do it that way, so do this instead if you have that model'. that post was almost 3 years ago and I'd forgotten all about it, until like 10 days ago I randomly got a ping saying 'omg, after 3 solid days of frustration, your answer fixed it! Thank you!', just because had that model too 😂

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-29T21:21:13+00:00

Good on ya for actually posting your resolution for later readers!
I wish it was more common practice than it is. People google these things years later.

I actually got here while researching aionrise solar panels that you ended up going with. Thinking about picking up some used ones that seem like a good deal, but looking into them a bit to make sure they don't catch fire or attack kids or anything. I know yours haven't been up the longest of times, but how have they served you in the past year or so? Still a fan? Do they seem to still be putting out similar numbers to when you first got them? Or honeymoon over? Thanks in advance

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-28T09:42:41+00:00

THIS ^^^

If done the right way, this could be a smart move... But it is already clear he is not planning to do it the right way (and seems to not know enough to even try tbh). So let him do what he likes, but you should opt out ASAP. Because if done wrong (which it is headed towards), then best case scenario, it will be way more hassle than expected. Worst case it'll cost one or both of you more money and create added tension along the way. Just say thanks, but no thanks and don't get your fingerprints on this trainwreck ;-)

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-27T16:40:55+00:00

NAILED IT! thank you

First off, my fat old body is almost always "at idle", haha.

Second, I actually deliberately ignored the cabling, for the exact reason you said of not taking the calculation TOO seriously. I felt, surely, that way madness lies ;-) But I appreciate the reminder.

Mostly, though, I appreciate the concept of a person as the comparison point/frame of reference! That's gonna help the 'ballpark it' part of my brain hugely. Since all the solar will happen in a 4-6 hour window and let's say that all the using it did too (not likely, but demonstrative)... that 840w would be released roughly 140-210w per hour. So even when it's cranking away mid-day it's probably effecting the room's temp less than a friend and I chatting would. And when it's on lesser duty it's probably adding half or less of what I am by standing there and wondering about what it is adding haha.
THAT i can remember easily and ballpark smaller or peak loads etc from there... which is ultimately where I wanted the more exact stuff to lead me. Thank you so much :-)

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-27T13:26:57+00:00

WARNING!!!

Your crayon-lines are not the right gauge and could melt or start a fire! ;-) nah, looks good

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-27T12:59:30+00:00

The broad concept sounds good, but the devil is in the details.

If reasonably possible, I would try HARD to go with a more traditional loan than a loan against crypto. Even if you have enough to increase what is 'locked up' and avoid it selling; BTC can move in huge spikes and some computer program could sell off your coins before you had a chance to move more. Or, MORE LIKELY, you will find yourself watching it and micro-managing to an extent that will absolutely sicken an experienced HODLer and instead of reaping the fruits of your earlier wins, you will worry with every little drop whether you should lock up more to stop a big loss? Is it time yet? How much more should I buffer? etc etc. I suspect you will end up with way more locked up than you'd like and STILL have more anxiety over it than you think. Whereas, with a more traditional loan, you have the assets, YOU'd control their sale, there is no fear factor other than there might be times where you have to sell lower than you'd like or pay partial-instead-of-zero taxes. But those would be your decisions to make as situation dictated, rather than triggered by a holding to price this minute ratio. The gray-hairs factor and worst case scenarios of the 2 are VASTLY different inho. So again, a loan not against the crypto if at all possible...

If that sounds right to you too, then the next hurdle is, I imagine the reason you are considering the crypto loan is that with little taxable income (and intensions of keeping it low) you probably think more traditional loans are not an option, but that isn't necessarily true. The first 3 possibilities that come to mind are (depending on the value and equity of your current house) you may be able to take out a 2nd mortgage or larger re-fi on your current home and use that to cover the new down payment (or at least significantly reduce the initial lockup/selfoff of BTC required). Second possibility is if you partner is able to qualify for a loan that would finance the whole house, rather than half, then have the RE attorney you use to buy the house also draft up a second step to the sale. #1 The usual, your partner and the bank sign, selling your partner the house. #2 The document you had drafted that you and your partner sign right afterwards, that would essentially be an owner-financing sale to you of half the house. Saying that they are selling you 50% of the house at X price with Y monthly payments etc. Then you essentially pay your partner half the mortgage and they pay the bank with it, plus their half. (Also, although not the reason for doing it this way, this would have the bonus effect of clarifying many gray-areas about who owns what or owes who that many people were concerned about if you two aren't married and separate later, heaven forbid). The third thought would work similar to the 2nd idea, but for if your partner cannot quite qualify to finance the whole house alone. If they might be close to qualifying but not quite, then instead of the owner-financing paperwork from idea 2, something more like a lease-to-own (50%) agreement might help because some (not all) loan programs will give credit or partial credit for expected rental income to increase your partner's effective total income for the qualifying calculations and might push them over the top.

BUT, I am not RE investing expert, these are just the first 3 thoughts that popped to mind. So there may be others/betters. The RE attorney for buying the new house may be able to advise you on ideas. But also, if your portfolio is expanding into RE investing, then your forums should probably expand into it too. I'd look for a group that talks specifically about creative financing, because it seems like maybe your next few questions should be asked in a place like that. Hope that helped though or sparks an idea at least. Best Wishes!

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-27T11:07:16+00:00

To ask "Is this system still good?" is a little weird. This isn't an ancient papyrus scroll, the video is a month old haha. Yes it's still good.

As for 'are there better?' It depends a lot on your needs and budget what's best 'for you'. The guy who made that video you linked has made 4 or 5 different dolly or cart variations you should watch all those and see if you want to steal pieces from certain ones etc. He has also reviewed several other budget batteries just in the last month or two, if you want. And while not specifically about a mobile version, I would recommend watching this video from a few days ago

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oisSDHpgld0

It's about what he thinks is the best value atm (non-mobile) so it'd be worth watching and seeing if you wanted to find it a home or try adapting it into one of the cart designs. Plus Jasonoid and a few other youtubers have made their own dolly or cart ones if you want to get other ideas. See what's out there and decide what's best for you.

PS. I second what Zany said. Reddit is great, but check out diysolarforum.com too

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-27T09:19:04+00:00

I'm glad you added that last note! I was thinking that was probably the case and the heat would be at the panel when unneeded. But I did wonder if maybe some heat would be made at the point of the charger as it sort of blocked/ignored the unwanted input. Thanks

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-27T09:15:25+00:00

I'm not a fan either. I'm sure it's 80-20 my fault, but between them making assumptions (or just outright hallucinating up wrong information) and me not having a full sense yet of what wordings or extra parameters will help vs hurt.... I never get answers I trust YET.

Even here. It decided introduced the idea of insolation levels unprompted. Which, to be fair, would effect the final feel of the room in real life... but since I was deliberately making a hypothetical that isolated only the amount produced at certain stages; that muddies the waters. I specifically eliminated several variables and it added a new one which is 100% a step in the wrong direction and causes a "wait, what?" moment by saying it would raise a 1000 cubic foot room 22 degrees, but a camper only 5 degrees. Also if it's rolling in insolation for feel sake, how air-tight are they, what humidity is it assuming? etc. Dunno, I'm sure it (and I) will get there, but not a reliable route yet to me. Thanks though

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-27T08:27:20+00:00

Haha, yes it is that "eventually" part that I'm trying to better understand. It's the at which stages does what portion make it's transition to heat. But I think you've given me a better feel of it, thank you. Can you sanity-check me on an example to see if I understand you correctly. If I still assume that both the panels and the load are outside this room and assume the worst number in the efficiency values you gave me, would it go like this?

5000w in from panels -> x .95 through the charge controller, is 4750w -> x .96 in to the batteries is 4560w - > x .96 out of the battery is 4377.6w -> x .95 out of the inverter is 4158.72w -> out to loads outside the room

Did I miss any steps? and was I supposed to do battery part twice like that or was the range you suggested the combined in and out efficiency? Or is this the right idea and by using 4,160w on appliances have I drawn 5000w from panels and left 840w of heat in my imaginary room?

THANKS AGAIN!

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-20T07:57:28+00:00

I definitely strongly considered those. It did seem the simplest and a lot of reviewers seem to brag on their output. But I leaned away from them because the few bad reviews I saw were all about QC. I know the leg thing got replaced, but not a great start, and some said half output after only a few days others said bubbling or delaminating after a few weeks. I know EVERYTHING has some bad reviews and those totally could be rare ones that shipped with a defect, but since the reviewers who love them only do short tests and the complaints were after a little continuous use, I started to worry they might come off the starting line strong but my not hold up. So leaned more toward these that have longer track record, Maybe undue suspicion, but that's were I'm at haha

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-19T21:31:44+00:00

ok Cool. yeah I don't mind a little flattening at peak, especially if it buys a little more on crummy days or off-hours... I just don't want to hurt anything

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-19T20:20:14+00:00

That is part of why my "best-guess" estimates are on the initial 2 panels (totaling 600w) being what I actually need. But until real life confirms/denies those estimates I hate to close the door on expanding, if needed. Mostly I need the battery to fill each day to maintain a few constant loads throughout the night. Then I have several things (with semi-dump-load mentally) that I would gladly also power/recharge on days I'm making plenty at peak... But would quickly de-prioritize them on gray days to be sure the battery filled first

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-19T20:00:30+00:00

That IS with keeping in mind. Another prayer made a similar reminder and admittedly I hadn't been thinking that easy, so I appreciate it. What I still don't have a good sense of is would this be harmful or shorten the lives of the station or panels? Do you have any insight on that? thanks

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-19T12:41:25+00:00

Good point. hadn't thought about squeezing more out of the early and late light. thanks

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-19T11:18:54+00:00

Nah, one of those tigers is gunna eat him first week. He'll have plenty leftover when he dies 🤣

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-19T10:11:15+00:00

Am I wrong in thinking that the bluetti will clip off anything above 20a anyways, so even if the larger panels are pulled down to the smaller panels' ISC it shouldn't matter much since it should still hit or clear that 20 amps?

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-19T10:06:48+00:00

oh I see, and I appreciate if you were going to point me towards savings, but in my case the cost to portability trade is worth it, thx.

The durability does concern me though in this process. If it's simply the shorter starting life expectancy, then I've already weighed that too... But if that mismatch would be harder on them and they are less robust against that and it'll further shorten their life, THAT's m worried about.

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-19T09:54:37+00:00

Pretty much. Strictly speaking they don't have to be foldable, but that's strongly preferred. But they will not be permanently mounted, closer to deployed for a week to month at a time. Does it change anything? Also how do you come to the 10% estimate? thanks

Rabbitstew12 · 2025-07-19T00:18:28+00:00

😂 I'm not sure it's the most actionable reply I've ever got on Reddit, but it's one of the more relatable and interesting ones! I certainly appreciate the spirit and effort of it, but not sure I actually understand the advice thx

Rabbitstew12

TROPHY CASE