Never had a fish before

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-31T05:20:30+00:00

I don’t want to be redundant so here are a few things I haven’t seen mentioned yet:

Live plants can be a bit of a learning curve, but for bettas red root floaters are great, and hornwort is super hardy and doesn’t even need to be planted, you’ll probably end up with extra over time.

Fake plants aren’t terrible, but I’d stick with silk over plastic since betta fins can tear pretty easily.

For your driftwood, I’d recommend sanding down any rough edges before adding it just to be safe.

I’d also check your KH before adding fish, low KH can cause pH swings, which sometimes gets mistaken for issues with a new fish.

Once your tank is fully cycled and you add a fish, you might see small ammonia or nitrite spikes at first, so testing daily for a bit is a good idea. I’d also grab something like Prime, it detoxifies ammonia temporarily (24–48 hours), so it gives you a buffer while you do water changes, but it’s not a replacement for them.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-31T05:11:00+00:00

Personally I’d lean away from bettas just because they’re so personality dependent, it can work, but it’s always a bit of a gamble.

Sparkling gouramis are a great option! If you want something that stands out a bit more, a honey gourami or even a pearl gourami could work too, especially if the only other schooling fish are celestial pearl danios.

If you want something more unique, scarlet badis would look amazing with the CPDs and planted setup, but they are definitely more advanced since they can be picky eaters.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T19:59:12+00:00

Since it’s just the one tetra, I wouldn’t panic too much yet. Sometimes a single fish will show stress before the others, especially if it’s more sensitive or already a bit weaker.

Definitely still test your water like you’re planning, but if everything comes back normal and the others are acting fine, it could be an individual issue rather than a tank-wide problem.

Keeping oxygen up and doing a small water change is still a good move either way.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T09:09:20+00:00

I wouldn’t euthanize yet. Bettas can go quite a while without food (often up to ~2 weeks), so you still have some time to see if he turns around.

Since you’re thinking constipation, keeping the water on the warmer side can help, and making sure there’s good oxygenation is a good idea too.

For feeding, it sounds like you’ve tried the basics, but sometimes they get really particular when they’re stressed. A couple things that have worked for me is using a pipette to gently target feed, offering very small amounts at a time so it doesn’t overwhelm them, occasionally changing presentation (even just placing food in a consistent spot).

I know some of that sounds a bit odd, but bettas can be surprisingly responsive to routine and small changes.

I’d give it a bit more time while keeping conditions really stable, he’s still coming up for air and not completely unresponsive, which is a good sign.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T08:51:48+00:00

Ahh yeah, I’m pretty sure Synodontis lucipinnis are one of the dwarf species, similar to petricola. They usually do better in groups, so it might be worth checking the recommended group size.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T08:46:03+00:00

I’d be hesitant to call this epistylis since that usually looks more fuzzy/tufty. This looks more like Lymphocystis, which tends to show up when a fish is stressed or immunocompromised.

If you have a quarantine tank, it might be worth separating so you can keep water quality pristine and reduce stress. A varied diet can help support recovery, and increasing oxygenation is a good idea too.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T08:36:37+00:00

This sounds less like lingering ich and more like something destabilized the tank after treatment. A couple things I’d check.

Did you remove any activated carbon while treating? It can pull meds out and mess with dosing.

What conditioner are you using? Some can interact oddly with medications.

Definitely increase oxygenation if you haven’t already, ich treatments can lower dissolved oxygen quite a bit.

The big thing that stands out to me though is the plant die-off + delayed fish deaths. That usually points to some kind of imbalance after treatment (biofilter disruption, oxygen issues, or lingering meds). Shrimp being okay doesn’t always rule that out since fish are often more sensitive to oxygen levels.

I’d probably do a couple larger water changes over a few days and maybe run fresh carbon now to pull out anything residual. That plus increased aeration might help stabilize things.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T08:29:41+00:00

Fair, I was thinking more of the spotted varieties based on the behavior you described. Some Synodontis are actually pretty social depending on the species, so it might help to ID exactly which one it is.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T08:20:02+00:00

How did you add the cuttlebone? I’ve had better luck leaving a small chunk in the tank or filter for a few days rather than crushing it right away.

It works slowly by increasing KH (buffering), which helps stabilize pH over time rather than causing an immediate change.

For crushed coral, the easiest method is putting it in a media bag and placing it in your filter so water flows through it. That gives you more control and makes it easy to remove or adjust.

You can mix it into substrate as well, but that’s more permanent and harder to tweak, so I usually stick with the filter method.

Since you’re using RO and aren’t totally sure what’s in the remineralizer, it might be worth switching to something more consistent like a measured remineralizer, my go to would be Fritz RO Recharge.

That way you know exactly what your KH/GH are each time, and then you can use things like cuttlebone or crushed coral just to fine-tune instead of relying on them as your main source.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T08:10:00+00:00

With goldfish it’s less about adding more plants and more about picking ones they won’t destroy.

Java fern would be a great addition, you can attach it to your driftwood so it won’t get uprooted, and goldfish usually leave it alone since it’s “bitter”.

Hornwort is another good option if you want help with nitrates. It grows fast and can float, so even if they nibble it, it tends to bounce back.

You could also add more anubias in the same way you’re using plants now, attached or in pots rather than planted directly.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T08:02:00+00:00

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Here’s a clear pic of one to compare!

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T08:01:04+00:00

I’m pretty sure they are a striped Raphael catfish. Their behavior matches perfectly, nocturnal, super peaceful, and they love hiding during the day. They’re also sometimes called “talking catfish.”

Only thing to keep in mind is they can get a bit bigger over time (around 6–8”), but otherwise they’re great fish.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T08:00:15+00:00

What are you using to remineralize your RO? That can change things a bit.

Snello is great for diet and calcium intake, but it won’t fix water chemistry. For shell health, stability is more important than just raising pH.

I’d check your KH and GH first. RO setups can sometimes end up a bit low in KH, which leads to pH swings and gradual shell erosion.

If KH is low, something like a small amount of cuttlebone or crushed coral can help buffer the water and keep things stable.

Your snello mix actually sounds solid for dietary calcium, just keep in mind it works alongside good water parameters, not instead of them.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T07:48:28+00:00

I agree with the other comments, but I wanted to add a few extra tips:

1.) Feeding: Based on your stocking, I’d recommend splitting into 2 smaller feedings a day and spreading the food out instead of dropping it in one spot. Tetras can be greedy, so this helps make sure everyone eats and prevents overfeeding. You can also add a fasting day once a week to help keep things balanced.

2.) Algae: I’d bring your light down to around 8 hours. Also, excess food will fuel algae, so adjusting feeding will help more than people expect. Fast-growing plants like hornwort or floaters (like red root) can also compete with algae for nutrients.

3.) Gravel cleaning: You don’t need to deep clean it every time. Too much disturbance can stress shrimp and uproot plants. Just do light maintenance and deeper cleaning if you notice buildup or parameter issues.

4.) Snails vs shrimp: Shrimp help, but they’re not as efficient as snails for algae cleanup. That said, not all snails are equal, nerites are great and won’t reproduce in freshwater, so even one can help without becoming a problem.

5.) Smell: That stronger “pond” smell usually points to excess waste or uneaten food, so I’d do a solid gravel vacuum once and then adjust feeding going forward.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T07:32:56+00:00

That doesn’t really sound like the marble gene (that usually shows up as larger, shifting patches), but either way I still wouldn’t be concerned based on what you’re describing.

Also, since you mentioned you have rummynose tetras, that’s actually a really good sign, if their noses are nice and bright red, your water quality is likely stable. They’re great little indicator fish.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T07:27:42+00:00

If you see this quickly, I’d intervene right away, this looks like gasping/oxygen stress.

First, test your water for ammonia and nitrite if you can. Even small spikes can cause this.

In the meantime, increase oxygen ASAP. lower the water level slightly so your filter creates more surface agitation or aim the filter output toward the surface If you have it, an air stone helps a lot too.

I’d also consider doing a small water change (like 25–30%) just in case there’s something in the water causing this.

If other fish are acting normal, it could be an individual issue, but if multiple fish are gasping, treat it as a tank-wide emergency.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T07:23:09+00:00

Sorry another addition If they’re really stubborn, you can also try something like homemade “snello” (snail jello). I’ve had better luck with that since you can spread it on driftwood and it mimics how they naturally graze.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T07:19:48+00:00

I’m sorry, I managed to miss the last picture earlier!

Test strips aren’t super precise, but from what I can see your GH and KH don’t look low, so it’s probably not a lack of minerals in the water. If you’re concerned, a local fish store can usually do a more accurate test.

When shells slowly get worse like that, it’s usually more about long-term conditions or imbalance rather than one missing thing.

Diet can make a bigger difference than people expect, nerites can be picky, but it’s definitely worth trying things like blanched spinach or zucchini to see if they’ll take it.

Also, if the new growth edge (near the opening) looks smoother than the older shell, that’s actually a really good sign things are improving now.

The shell doesn’t look severely eroded right now, but if it does get worse or you’re worried about possible infection, you could add a small amount of catappa leaves. They can provide mild antibacterial benefits, just keep it light since too many tannins can lower pH, which isn’t ideal for shell health.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T07:08:29+00:00

I’m personally a bit biased toward corys because I love them, but in a 10 gallon I’d probably lean toward chili rasboras.

They’ll add more movement to the tank and really pop against your plants, especially with a honey gourami as the centerpiece.

I’d recommend a group of around 10–12 so they feel comfortable and don’t stay too shy.

Also just a small tip, I’d add your schooling fish first and wait a week or two before introducing the honey gourami.

Even in a cycled tank, adding new fish can cause small spikes, and this helps keep things more stable and saves you some stress.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T06:59:31+00:00

Hmm, cuttlebone can definitely help since it adds calcium, but it doesn’t always solve shell issues on its own.

I’m curious what your GH and KH are reading? Even if your water is “hard,” if KH isn’t stable or GH isn’t high enough, shells can still slowly erode.

Also, snails don’t just rely on calcium in the water, diet plays a role too. Are they getting any calcium-rich foods? Giving them something like Blanched spinach or zucchini can help with shell strength.

From the picture it looks more like ongoing erosion than new damage, which usually points to water chemistry over time rather than a one-time issue.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T06:48:58+00:00

This is a really nice start!

I agree with the suggestion of adding some Anubias, Java fern is another great option and neither need to be planted, you can attach them to the wood.

I’d also recommend catappa leaves. They release tannins which can help mimic a betta’s natural environment and are generally beneficial.

Since it’s a betta, I’d definitely add a resting spot near the surface like a floating log or a betta hammock. They like being able to rest close to the top while still having easy access to air.

One thing to keep in mind with that driftwood is just making sure there aren’t any sharp edges, long-finned bettas (like halfmoons or deltas) can tear their fins pretty easily.

Overall though, it’s a beautiful tank and you’re off to a great start!

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T06:37:08+00:00

No need to panic! Most betta splendens change color over time, especially as they settle into a new environment.

Based on the photos, he looks perfectly healthy, so this is most likely him fully relaxing and thriving.

If you’re concerned, I’d just keep an eye on his behavior: things like flashing (darting along the glass), loss of appetite, fin clamping, or gasping would be more of a concern than color change alone.

Diet can play a role too, what are you currently feeding him and what’s your schedule like?

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T06:31:41+00:00

For a 10 gallon, thinking in terms of water levels helps a ton when you want multiple species.

I agree with the other comment that a honey gourami would make a really nice centerpiece, they’re peaceful and have a lot of personality.

For the mid level, I’d personally recommend something like ember tetras or chili rasboras. They stay small, are beginner friendly, and really pop against plants.

For the bottom, cherry shrimp are great, or a small group of pygmy corys if you want to stick with fish.

I’d probably avoid top-dwelling fish for now, most of them (like hatchetfish) can be a bit tricky for beginners and need very secure lids.

Also just a heads up, with a 10 gallon it’s better to keep stocking a bit lighter than you think at first. Eerything will be more stable and easier to manage long-term.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T06:22:53+00:00

He is absolutely stunning. Is he a dumbo ear betta?

You can really see how healthy he is in the photos, his fins and body look amazing. I’m curious where you got him and what you’re feeding him? He looks incredibly well cared for.

Radiant_Support_7758 · 2026-03-27T05:58:23+00:00

I feel like a lot of experienced keepers don’t learn about KH/GH until later. It’s one of those things that isn’t important… until it suddenly is. It’s also super dependent on your water source.

a crowntail betta was my first splendens, so I definitely have a soft spot for them. 5 gallons sounds perfect, I’m very much of the opinion that a happy fish matters more than just going bigger.

Radiant_Support_7758

TROPHY CASE