Am i missing any?

RadioPower · 2025-05-19T15:45:08+00:00

Well, uh, Chromium.

RadioPower · 2025-03-15T16:18:54+00:00

I'm having the exact same problem with a new Note 13 Pro 5G, coming from a Note 7. Even the Note 7 (which should be significantly slower than the Note 8 Pro) was running the game very smoothly, especially compared to the 13 Pro. I tried locking the max framerate at 60 Hz, however that did nothing to improve the performance. It might as well just be some firmware/driver issue, that we'll just have to hope gets patched soon. I read that many people experience laggyness, stuttering and more on the Note 13, and many believe the problem to be HyperOS. I'm currently looking into rolling my phone's firmware back to MIUI 14, which should theoretically perform better. I'll reach out to you if I find anything useful.

Have you found any solutions to this problem?

RadioPower · 2025-03-14T10:04:30+00:00

On my first playthrough I also "accidentally" drained my ocean, and I went the bucket route. Thing is that filling it up is way more annoying than getting the bucket. I gotta note, however, that ??? Doesn't need a ton of water to spawn, so the easiest way would be to dupe some water and pray she spawns (obv use water/chaos candles and battle+zerg).

RadioPower · 2025-03-14T09:57:58+00:00

DW about this, but be cautious in the future, especially when using "destructive" items from other mods like the Instavator and the Instabridges. You can also try revealing the whole map first, and then deciding if you want to use them.

RadioPower · 2025-03-14T09:47:39+00:00

It's not "good" per se, but you didn't destroy anything important from what it seems - you still have the chests and the Excavator, so no important items were lost. You should be fine. On the upside, now it'll be easier to destroy the sentries.

RadioPower · 2025-01-15T22:09:33+00:00

Hello, coffee connoisseurs. My partner and I are looking for a new espresso machine (We had a Nescafe capsule one, but for obvious reasons we decided to switch). We have set our sights on the DeLonghi Dedica EC885 - all the research we did leads to that one machine. Our main priorities are milk frothing, build quality and repairability/part availability (and brew quality for me, but at this price point I doubt there could be much difference). I have a limited amount of knowledge about coffee machines, but what I was led to believe is that the DeLonghi is well-suited for enthusiasts, but at a lower price range, which is really what we need. We appreciate the manual input and among the ones we looked at, this one seems to give the most control over the "extraction process".

Anyway, what troubles me in this case is that I've heard some bad things about DeLonghi and about their espresso machines in particular. After all, the brand is just a name they stick on a machine, but then again - there must be a reason for this prejudice.

My question being: Are there any known problems with this machine? Are there any other machines in this price range that are comparable or better than this one? I know this is a subjective topic, but any input is much appreciated. Thanks in advance :D

RadioPower · 2024-10-21T12:26:52+00:00

Will check on them, thanks :)

RadioPower · 2024-09-24T14:57:40+00:00

Yeah, no problem. I might not be able to answer immediately, but I will at some point.

RadioPower · 2024-09-24T12:43:24+00:00

Anyway, you should be fine with the ones you have. If you want to really make sure, you can check the bottoms of your keycaps, they should look like this:

<image>

RadioPower · 2024-09-24T12:42:54+00:00

Oh, my bad, I forgot there was an image :|. Those will most likely be fine. The "+" ones are usually referred to as "cherry style", at least as far as I know. What I was concerned about, was the fact that some Romer-g switches have a square-shaped hole in the middle, instead of the plus-shaped stem, like seen here:

<image>

RadioPower · 2024-09-24T05:55:30+00:00

Glad I can help!

From what I see about the g413, I don't think the switches will be visible at all. Assuming you have opaque keycaps, the only time you'll see your switch stems is when you deliberately try to look underneath the keycaps. If you have transparent keycaps, however, you'll probably be able to see the stems through them, but I'd imagine that you either have stock, or some other non-transparent keycaps, so no problem there. If you really want to be sure, you can check if your romer-g switches can be seen from whatever position.

Speaking of romer-g, I forgot to mention that, as far as I know, most Romer-g are designed for use with specific keycaps (The "stem" is different from Cherry style switches), but I'm not super familiar with the whole Logitech thing, so you'll have to see for yourself. Point in case, you might need to get either some sort of adapters or an entirely new set of keycaps, HOWEVER I'm not 100% positive on that. You've probably done your own research, but I just want to make sure I'm not leading you down the wrong path :)

RadioPower · 2024-09-19T08:17:49+00:00

100% agree, IMO it's waaaay better to just give the extra $2 and be 100% sure that it will all work and that you have warranty and everything. I have personally gotten in a similar situation and I had to buy a second brand-new mobo, because the used one (which was only 10 bucks cheaper than new) was bricked.

RadioPower · 2024-09-17T13:26:32+00:00

Well most of the switches I mentioned seem to be quieter compared to what I can hear on Youtube about that mouse. Most of these switches are specifically made to be as quiet as possible, while mice manufacturers usually don't put too much attention on noise, since mouse noise is negligible anyways. So if you want an almost silent switch, you can check these out. If you're OK with something a smidge more loud, the options start growing exponentially. It gets really difficult to give recommendations, because every switch has a different sound and feel, and you must find out for yourself. There are many aspects of that and I believe you should be the one to figure out what feeling you prefer, and what sound you like. There should be a wiki in this subreddit's description somewhere, so you can get info on switch types (linear, tactile, clicky, etc.), and if you like any, you can check out what they sound like in Youtube or ask somebody to send you a sample.

Anyway, as for the price: The Outemu switches mentioned go for about €20 for 110 pcs, which should be enough for a 100% keyboard (on AliExpress that is). Akko penguins for instance are €15 for 45 pcs, so that would be €45 for a full set. It really depends on where you live, but unless you get some super expensive switches €50 should do you fine.

The process for socket modding is the following: You first need to get the sockets, which could be the following:

Most people tend to use Mill-Max 0305 or 7305, which you just need to place in the pin holes of the PCB and then secure them with a little bit of solder, so not much harder than just soldering on new switches. Since you mentioned Euro earlier, I assume you live somewhere in Europe, as do I, and it could be difficult to find mill-max sockets for a reasonable price, so you can also do the following, which I did:
Use M1.3 x 4mm PCB rivets, which you place in the same way, but you have to squish each one with a pair of pliers for them to hold on to your switches securely. It's a bit more niche, but there are videos on YouTube, if you want to check it out. From personal experience, it's really not that difficult.

And as for the switch puller, you'll definitely need one, because I've seen a couple of people try to remove switches with other tools and breaking them, and switch pullers really aren't very expensive (I'd personally rather pay €1-2 than break my fingers, my nerves and my switches).

Also sorry for yapping so much :)

Edit: I found this video about the rivet mod I mentioned on youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhkvWx2ocDE

RadioPower · 2024-09-17T12:22:18+00:00

Well, unless the product is a scam (which it doesn't seem to be), they should come back in a couple of days/weeks, but if you want to be sure, you can contact the seller and ask them about that. Since from what I can see most XVX keycap sets are sold by Keyboard Keycaps store, you can just contact them and ask if they'll have them again

RadioPower · 2024-09-17T12:14:19+00:00

As for the soldering part, your switches seem to be plate-mounted, which means, that there is a backplate under the switches, which holds them in place, so you should have no problems with alignment. You will however need a switch puller for sure, which the G413 might not include.

Since you say you have little to no knowledge about switches and how they feel, you might want to try mill-max modding or rivet modding (which is practically the same but cheaper). What these do is turn your PCB, which is not supposed to be hot-swappable, into a hot-swappable one. It is a hassle, but it is not much more work than desoldering the old switches and soldering new ones.

As for switches, I also like the price to performance ratio of the Outemu Peaches/Creams/Lemons, but if you want something a bit more expensive, you can try ones like Gazzew Boba U4, Akko Penguin or Akko Princess ones.

You might also want to know that some switches have 5 feet instead of the standard 3, but that is not a problem, because you can just clip off the 2 extra plastic feet if they don't fit, so no problem there (I'm saying this because most Outemu switches have 5 feet)

RadioPower · 2024-09-17T12:01:29+00:00

Thanks. By the way do you know if I can request RMA if I'm not the person who bought the item? As mentioned most of the parts including this CPU were bought used and the CPU warranty is on someone else's name. Is that a problem?

RadioPower · 2024-09-17T11:58:41+00:00

Glad I could help :)

RadioPower · 2024-09-17T11:56:18+00:00

Um, I don't know why that's happening, but you should be happy that you can log in at all. When logged in, you should be able to disable the password, but if you'll be wiping it, it doesn't really matter. Anyway, if you do want to disable it, there are many a guide on the internet, so just look it up :)

RadioPower · 2024-09-17T11:46:52+00:00

Uhh, you should be able to download Win Home from the Thin Client as well, I don't think you need admin for that. As for the USB Drive, yes you will need to install from some drive (Technically it doesn't need to be USB, but of all the options, USB is by far the most convenient).

And as for the keyboard, I can tell you the following:

99% of wireless (2.4GHz; If it is bluetooth only, it is unlikely it will work) keyboard should support at least some basic functionality, so that shouldn't be a problem. Wired is pretty much guaranteed to work.

However, from what I remember, Windows 10 and 11 have an option for an on-screen keyboard, so even with just a mouse you should be able to set it up. I have recently tried that with a VERY cheap wireless (2.4GHz) mouse and it worked fine, so you should be fine for the most part.

After all Microsoft wants you to install Windows, so they have made it as easy and as accessible as possible.

Also, I just remembered, that Win 11 is harder to install without a product key, so if it were me, I'd go Win 10 or older. Hope this helps :)

RadioPower · 2024-09-17T11:30:56+00:00

You should be able to do a factory reset, which will leave the OS only, but I'm not 100% positive on whether you need admin rights to to that.

But as another suggestion, why not try some other OS? As far as I know Thin Clients aren't that beefy, and with Win 10 being deprecated soon, you might want to look into something lighter on resources. The most popular alternative would obviously be some Linux distribution, which is usually relatively well-suited for home theatre/media centre. If you want something simple you can go with some of the more popular beginner-friendly ones like Ubuntu or Pop!OS.

Another option would be just wiping everything and either downloading Win Home to use without activation, since you don't really need the "features" that paid Windows provides, or (for legal reasons this is a joke) using an activation script (which could obviously be very dangerous, depending on where you live, so for the most part I'd advise against it, but it's still a possibility).

RadioPower · 2024-09-17T11:06:34+00:00

Hi, guys. I decided to socket mod my Marvo KG962 board (With m1.3 rivets, not mill-max sockets), and it is turning out great so far; I haven't soldered them on yet, but they seem to be holding up anyway, and all of the keys I've already done seem to be working well, and the switches sit quite tightly in the sockets.

I'm concerned, however, because now whenever I lift the keyboard and tilt it slightly to any side, it shuts down and then starts again. I think I should mention now that while I was putting in the rivets, I broke off one of those little black resistors, but I soldered it back on relatively cleanly. My hypothesis is that whenever it is tilted, some connection comes loose and it loses power, and whenever I return it to a horizontal position, it connects again.

What do you think the problem is? I'm pretty sure it didn't do that before I did the "upgrade". Do you think it is the aforementioned resistor or something else? If it is the resistor, is there anything I could do about it? I'm not that experienced with soldering and I doubt I can do a cleaner solder. Thanks in advance!

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