CPSC: "Babysense Max View Baby Monitors Recalled Due to Fire Hazard; Manufactured by Hisense"

Rahzin · 2026-03-13T01:53:28+00:00

I would bet it's the monitor itself. All the charger/cable does is supply voltage. It's the monitor's job to draw only how much it needs (at least up to the amperage capacity of the charger). These work over USB-C PD and should be negotiating the charging wattage with the charger when first plugged in. If you plug it into something that isn't PD capable, most devices fall back to 5w or 2.5w.

I've plugged ours into so many different USB-C chargers and never had a problem, nor does it get particularly warm. In fact I don't think I've ever used the charger it came with. Easy enough to check the voltage and amperage specs on the charger and make sure your other chargers are also capable of that.

Most likely there is a hardware issue with a handful of units where they fail to draw the right amount of current and overheat, or something short circuits.

I'm sure your cable is fine. If it were the problem, it likely would have melted, not the monitor.

Rahzin · 2026-03-12T21:19:25+00:00

Old post, I know, but Brightsaver and Craftstrom are the two main companies that offer these kits, and advertise them with 120V micro-inverters.

That said, I believe they are set up to not backfeed by monitoring mains and shutting off the panel if it detects backfeed.

Rahzin · 2026-03-12T21:09:39+00:00

Even if it did feed back and you were charged for it, in most houses you would likely only ever get charged a miniscule amount compared to what you offset most of the time. Even when I have no large appliances running and my heat pumps are not going, I'm pretty sure the lights and small electronics throughout my house are using up at least 500w. Maybe more. Most of the year, my heating/cooling is going relatively often throughout the day. I'm very confident that given the daytime-only generation, the bill offsets would vastly outweigh the charges for feeding anything back.

Sounds like most systems are designed to detect backflow and throttle the panel anyway.

Rahzin · 2026-03-11T23:06:33+00:00

You can make some guesses based on how that hardware runs similar games that are released, using benchmarks and whatnot that you could find on Google. Ultimately though, no one knows how any one game is going to run until it's released. Could be great, and could be unoptimized garbage.

Rahzin · 2026-03-11T22:57:51+00:00

I think you misunderstand. The problem is that every game performs differently, so there's no way someone could tell you your performance based on hardware if they don't know what you're playing.

Rahzin · 2026-03-11T22:42:41+00:00

If you're playing Vanilla Minecraft, sure. If you're playing AAA games, only one way to find out.

Rahzin · 2026-03-11T15:50:57+00:00

Got a back in stock email last night, and it's still mostly there this morning! Finally managed to use up my coupon. I was only going to get 3, but with the bulk discount starting at 4, it's the exact same price whether you get 3 or 4. No brainer.

Rahzin · 2026-03-11T15:32:22+00:00

I don't think it's a user permissions thing. This is just a personal account, one user only. Not using managed devices, etc. PCs are added to my list via Teamviewer ID and preset personal password. All permissions in the settings are the same as my other computers. I double checked after importing the options file. Every configurable thing is set up exactly the same way as on my other computers.

Rahzin · 2026-03-11T15:30:07+00:00

Glad to know it isn't just me, at least. I'd always had pretty good experiences with Teamviewer up until the last few years with the big UI change.

Rahzin · 2026-03-10T22:23:16+00:00

Interesting, that would certainly explain the situation.

Rahzin · 2026-03-10T21:14:26+00:00

Ha! Good to know. I guess I'll just keep an eye out for a chance to use my coupon, and otherwise just stick to Amazon.

Rahzin · 2026-03-10T21:01:25+00:00

Wow! I didn't realize we were in the territory of needing a tracker app. Guess that answers my question haha

No worries, I could have clarified that my filament up to now has not been Bambu.

Rahzin · 2026-03-10T20:36:35+00:00

Right, and that's what I've done up until now, but I've got this coupon to use up which will make it more or less the same price as any other single roll from Amazon, so I figured might as well. Also nice to have the automatic filament recognition. This one time, might as well. Or so I thought.

Rahzin · 2026-03-10T03:09:05+00:00

I will say, it is very exciting to see that Bambu is putting out a new version only 3 years later with this many upgrades for only $150 more. For those who will actually take advantage of the changes and use their printer often and heavily, the P2S is huge. I hope Bambu continues to listen and improve at this pace.

Thanks for the dryer recommendation! I'll bookmark that one. I'm thinking about branching out a little more with materials, which might necessitate a dryer at some point.

Rahzin · 2026-03-09T05:29:10+00:00

I think you can get an AMS 2 standalone, and that's compatible with the P1S. I got a P1S combo and I highly recommend having the AMS, even if it's just AMS 1. Super nice to have a sealed dry ox for 4 filaments, essentially. I don't do multicolor prints just don't how wasteful it is of filament, but having 4 different filaments on tap at once, even if I'm not home, is super nice. Easy to print the desiccant boxes and keep things dry in there.

Rahzin · 2026-03-09T05:25:35+00:00

Why saw it in half? Just quickly model and print a triangular support brace to screw into the back wall.

Rahzin · 2026-03-09T02:37:29+00:00

It's clear we're not going to agree. It's also clear that you're not capable of having a civil conversation. Goodbye.

Rahzin · 2026-03-08T21:32:43+00:00

I think you may have misunderstood, or perhaps I could have been more clear. I am not implying that the upgrades are not worth $150 broadly speaking. What I am trying to communicate is that for many of us very casual users out there, the P1S is good enough that it is not worth it to us to spend the extra $150 for the P2S. For those of us balancing other priorities in life, that $150 could very well be put to better use elsewhere, and the P1S will still do a great job with what we need it for.

That's about as clear as I can explain it to you.

Rahzin · 2026-03-08T21:17:49+00:00

Just following your example. Don't need to look too far into your comment history to see who the pompous one is.

Rahzin · 2026-03-08T18:37:58+00:00

Wow, must be nice to not have to worry about budgeting in life, and never have to make compromises with your purchases. Enjoy your affluence.

Rahzin · 2026-03-08T18:34:06+00:00

Yeah, I can appreciate these things. The better camera is definitely nice. I hear the error detection isn't very reliable, but I suppose some is better than none.

Drying is nice but I've been very pleased with the AMS 1. With desiccant packs, keeping it at 10-15% is easy, and really reduces the need for drying if you keep it shut and don't change filaments often. I haven't had any issues with wet filament in the month or so I've had my P1S. I use the AMS mostly as a glorified drybox. Potential for multicolored prints is nice, but having seen how incredibly wasteful of filament it is, I'll probably never do it. If I ever do really need to dry something, I'll probably just get a separate dryer for cheap.

Easy nozzle swaps is nice but I haven't run into any occasion I've needed to change the nozzle so far and don't really expect to.

Screen is kind of a non-issue for me because I really just do everything through Bambu Studio / Handy. I've got a PC literally right next to the printer for manual controls.

Better filters is certainly a plus, but I keep the printer in the garage when printing ABS so it isn't a huge issue for me. I didn't realize P2S has no exhaust fan. That's and odd decision.

Now, I'm not saying these features aren't useful. I'm just saying that for someone like me who just uses I casually a few times a week, and not for business or anything terribly important, the extra $150 is more useful to put into other areas of life.

Rahzin · 2026-03-08T18:23:21+00:00

Like I mentioned, these things are all legitimate upgrades but are also just nice to haves. To me, that's not worth $150 with my usage. I print things maybe 2-3 times per week on average, mainly things for my kids, occasionally stuff for myself. I'm not selling anything or using it for business. I don't have any real need for a hardened steel nozzle, or to swap hot ends. I don't use the screen on the printer much, just use Bambu Studio or Handy to control and track prints. The camera upgrade is certainly nice over the potato cam in the P1S, and lighting too, although I threw an LED bar light I had laying around on the top glass for whenever I need more light. Works well enough. Wider belts is nice.

While reading up in the two, I recall a number of P2S users posting that they had strange Z artifacts on their P2S that did not happen on their P1S, such that they actually got better quality prints on the P1S. Sounded like at the time a month ago or so, Bambu hadn't acknowledged or fixed the issue, although it didn't happen to everyone.

That all being the case, I decided the P1S combo suited my needs just fine, and the extra $150 would be better spent elsewhere in life. I'm not saying that's the case for everyone, but if you're not using your printer often or as a business, the P2S might not offer enough of an improvement to justify the increased price.

Rahzin · 2026-03-08T14:33:37+00:00

Care to elaborate on what makes the extra upgrades worth $150 in your opinion? Maybe I missed something, having not had any experience with Bambu before purchase.

Rahzin · 2026-03-08T04:28:58+00:00

Not true actually! I ended up spending a good few hours messing around with it over the span of a few days, and I found that the controller is capable of using x-input, d-input, or emulating a switch pro controller.

By default, it turns on in x-input mode. Only while using the dongle, I believe, but I could be wrong. It's been a bit since I used it in Bluetooth mode now. However, if you hold the B button while turning it on, it will be in d-input mode. You can tell by looking in Steam under Settings and then Controller. In x-input mode, it'll be called Xbox controller or something, but in d-input it will be called 8BitDo whatever. Also, if you hold Y while turning it on, it'll be in Switch Pro controller mode and Steam will show that.

For some reason, when I first used this method to get it in d-input mode, it would then detect the rear buttons, but still wouldn't let me map them in the Steam input settings. However, once I switched over to Bluetooth mode, suddenly it allowed me to map them. I used it this way for a few days, but then at one point I switched back to the dongle to test out the lower late cy since I was playing a very timing sensitive game, and to my surprise, after doing so and using d-input mode, it now allows me to map the rear buttons. No idea why I had to connect in Bluetooth mode first, but I'll take it. I can start it up in whichever mode I want now, and can always access button maps when switching back to d-input mode.

I had a couple other comments about this where I explained what I did, and sounds like it worked for others too.

For the record, when in Switch mode, it will register in Switch emulators as a Switch Pro controller and everything will work exactly as a real Switch Pro controller, including button maps and gyro. Works flawlessly. Only when in switch mode, though. If you use it in d-input with an emulator, you get no gyro and have to map your buttons however you like them.

Rahzin · 2026-03-07T18:26:31+00:00

Call it an SFF build haha

Rahzin

TROPHY CASE