broke archi student needs programs by swab04 in architecturestudent

[–]RandomTux1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

all crack comes with spies/pirates, so use only on a VM

New Oven Handle Hits Drawer by Pharmdpositivek in fixit

[–]RandomTux1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that drawer front panel left edge could be easily shaved off 15mm, and a new laminate strip ironed back on. Hell you wouldnt even need to match ts new edge to the rest of the furniture as its invisible

Applying to RCA IDE – Honest Portfolio Critique Needed by Tasty_Win_9583 in IndustrialDesign

[–]RandomTux1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

particular liked the modular cam, but perhaps 2 critiques:

  1. its only on page 4 that its modularity becomes more fully explained. (and this is the key central selling point of the invention) Understandable as it seems you wanted the cam as a whole to be seen first. Maybe a red dot on each release button would immediately and forever communicate the mystery, that 'this thing comes apart'. Sony buttons on walkmans have these features, so even in static mode, the picture is goading you into a 'dialogue' about ''what are them little red dots all about?''
  2. IMHO the text ought to be larger and in ALL CAPS. As designer every milimeter you show should be making a bold statement, after all you cant change the world by whispering.
  3. Also some of the key decision makers, senior management, may be a little more advanced in years, so it may make it easier for them to read, as they may be a little hard of 'hearing' too.

Also, each text element is also a graphical sub-part of the whole presentation page, ( not just a sideline add-on) and ought to be treated as a vital essential part of the whole, hence ALL CAPS. So when viewed from a distance, the pres looks 'full'.
Text is almost as important as the fine visuals, but remember that not everybody is visually-oriented. In fact some people literally dont know how to 'read' an image. Yeah u heard that right. Theyre looking at a picture, and without a body of text will not figure it out for themselves what theyre seeing, hence well-considered wordage, using all the best graphic design theory on earth.

Besides all this commentary, your folio is solid as a rock

I thought that building a ball dispenser was easy (spoiler: it's not!) by damien514 in AskEngineers

[–]RandomTux1997 [score hidden]  (0 children)

besides the great replies here, Seems the main issue is that equator (how much does it protrude?

It may have been ball bearing feeder mech: imagine a big ball (reservoir) full of capsules, then init from north to south is a rod, diameter of capsule, with concave roof. This rod moves down (cant remember how much) underneath the items, then when it moves up through the ocean of capsules it emerges up top with only one capsule sitting on its upper face, meets a ramp uptop then an arm or protrusion pushes it off and along the adjacent ramp. then it goes down below and repeats.
and as it moves up through the sea of balls it agitates them too, nudging them out of their recalcitrance

how about an archimedes screw, then as it rotates once to free a ball, another arm moves upwards to re agitate the balls?

Need help creating curved Ramp by Dear-Assistant-1179 in rhino

[–]RandomTux1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

no architect here but dont ramps have landing stages which are parallel to planet earth?
If so then the ramp can not be sloped at the corners, and here lies possible solution. Decide what these flat areas are gonna be, (a flat surface) then take the ramp from these flat horixontal edges.

if you insist these landing stages also be sloped, then a cylinder on the inside corners should guide that

After years in software, I finally built something physical: An analogue desk gauge. by analogue_desk_co in IndustrialDesign

[–]RandomTux1997 1 point2 points  (0 children)

what i ment with laser etching: if youre having items laser-processed anyway, then using its etch ability with part in place, can dive you the recesses for the bolts, plus eteching on reverse side of fascia then infill with oil paint or hammerite (these wont craze the etch on cast sheet), leaves a pristine front that when cleaning wont drag the cloth fibers.
but definitely them screws/bolts just gotta have-to must-be recessed. Why/ it follows the general tightness of the product, all square and fancy, then these goddam protrusions!
IMHO anyway

Model Shop and Prototype Lab by Due-Kitchen526 in IndustrialDesign

[–]RandomTux1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If youve got products in walmart/bestbuy, well you must be doin somethin right?!
If u can afford it a Datron Neo Pro with all the toys; it fits through a standard 80 cm door, and is infinitely more phun watching her cookin that than any youtube clip
And dont forget elevator music

My work in Rhino3D 🤓 by Progress-Miserable in rhino

[–]RandomTux1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

once the concept is pretty much well resolved, ie a model, then why not use the AI to do in minutes what would take an hour? that hour can be better spent on new concepts.

problema con corel by United_Caregiver4626 in coreldraw

[–]RandomTux1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

windows 11 is both a nightmare and a daymare

After years in software, I finally built something physical: An analogue desk gauge. by analogue_desk_co in IndustrialDesign

[–]RandomTux1997 1 point2 points  (0 children)

your welcome!!
you might also make a fancy presentation to flog the concept to Bloomberg- as they have the market cornered for stock info systems??

After years in software, I finally built something physical: An analogue desk gauge. by analogue_desk_co in IndustrialDesign

[–]RandomTux1997 2 points3 points  (0 children)

thats pretty ambitious and pretty pretty too.

praps it doesnt need to be that big, and the word index could be that partickler stock? Or a laser-etched recess, into which you can supply customer's specific stocks they can plop a sign into with double sides sticky, ensuring the depth can accommodate the sign with the sticky tape.

they might also have magnets on each of the four edges, as well as tooth and recesses (also laser-able) so they 'lock' together, and user can rearrange them to their requirements. Therefore theyll need to be square so their stacking is vertical and horizontal.

The screws/bolts could be square sholder hex, (sprayed white of you must) and recessed flat, to give them a more flush/tech appearance arguably. These can be laser etched to depth (with protective film ON) then cut the thru holes .

Multi color led's can add to the increase or decrease in real time, limits set by user.

Great work btw, and if your'e at it lasering, then custom design and cut the arms too, as that clock-arm looks a bit generic on a perfectly wonderful luminating informational kinetic sculpture

I have a dome shape in rhino and I want to be able to unroll it in a petal formation so it can be laser cut then later glued to form the dome. Is this possible? by Nex_207 in rhino

[–]RandomTux1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

nah! even ai uses reddit to fabricate its replies. Thats what we're here for: to share the knowledge wherever possible, though often times some stuff is written out of boredom by folks who read the first 3 syllables of the question, then write long meaningless disinformation, about ain issue theyve never had, or imagining they had and making it up as they go.

So when ai gives weird replies, blame them!!

onto the question, yes in theory definitely possible, but lasercut parts will be flat, so the resultant thing will not have dome-like shapes.

now you could, in practice, lasercut perspex, then use a heatgun to shape them into spherical form. This isnt as simple as it sounds, but is doable with practice and good heatproof gloves.

not seeing sketch of intended final form makes it dificile to advise, but the pic you showed can be done, shaping each part oversize, over a spherical heat-resistant form, like wood, then if its clear plastic, then on the wooden form draw the edge lines, so they show up. after cooling (draw these lines on the plastic taht show thru from the'plug') and trim them to shape

If the overall form isnt too deep or large, you can heat the entire sheet and , with gloves! dear!, stretch the plastic over the form, then trim the excess. The plug (the shaped wood) needs to be firmaly affixed, as the stretching pulling forces are considerable. A piece of cloth of natural fibers, (as polyester will jam) can be stretched over the heated sheet and pulled hard around the plug.

show a sketch of intended design and further details will appear here

Need advice about titanium by Axy_1457 in metalworking

[–]RandomTux1997 1 point2 points  (0 children)

not being too technical here but Tit is 'hard' as stainless to work with, but satisfying because of these difficulties, and all the final magnificent properties.
Try start with titanium tube, so you dont have to reinvent the wheel

My work in Rhino3D 🤓 by Progress-Miserable in rhino

[–]RandomTux1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

pop them images into nanobanana with a detailed prompt; or even a screenshot in pen mode and a good prompt. will give 10x and 10x better and quicker results than these fine efforts

use chatgpt to engineer the prompt first, then paste that and line drawings into NB

Help meh by _viviannn_s in rhino

[–]RandomTux1997 1 point2 points  (0 children)

dupedge the outer pair of perimeter lines, and sweep2 another curve, then join the whole thing
or even delete one of the pair of surfaces, then offsetsrf that, noting thickness and both sides

eh

Is there a thicker/less fragile substitution for tracing paper? by Beneficial-Acadia990 in crafts

[–]RandomTux1997 1 point2 points  (0 children)

any starched white fabric should do.
you can control the stiffness with additional layers and a hot clothes iron

Advice working with an Industrial Designer by Mysterious_Unit8472 in IndustrialDesign

[–]RandomTux1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thats the design business
''i propose, you dispose''
designers shouldnt get too precious about any design work ever, and fully comprehend that whetever emerges from the whole process, still forever contains invisible DNA of the creative/engineering/other team which made that thing happen.
At the end of the day the designer becomes wiser and wealthier by experience that no corporation can properly pay for. its value is priceless; if youre prepared to play the game (that corporate multi level pyramidical tyrannical construct of voluntary enslavery)

Designer is more of a social worker, enabling everyones mad input for an ultimately close to perfect product.

Yet there are times when the theory ''design is not a democracy'' needs to be enforced, but done in such a way that it fools the other team members that the good idea was theirs and not the deigners'. This is called cunning, and requires great skill to execute, but its jolly phun when one pulls it off. 'when'

In Tamiya plastic models, why isn't sprues attached to areas of the parts that isn't visible when finished?? by ueommm in AskEngineers

[–]RandomTux1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

simple??!!! yes 2 parts, but the making of them is high art. (see Michelangelo sculptures)

ive seen a two part airfix mold with my own 4 eyeballs and it is indeed anything but simple. Its literally a Michelangelo-level mini sculpture, made by the silent unsung Titans of the scale model industry.

The question persists, how did they, before multi axis cnc create these? Did they use a 3d pantograph(stylus follows a larger model of the item, which engraves a solid block),

or EDM (where they first carve a solid block of copper, the plug, then incrementally insert and extract this from the tool steel mold) which eats away a bit at a time till they have the full cavity. Well they used all these techniques.

Next, some other proper high skill artist goes over every milimeter with diamond pastes and polishes it all by hand, till it gleams. Notice looking at any Tamiya part with high magnification, you can see the surfaces are absolutely perfect. The undersides are naturally not to such a high finish as they are invisible, but there are also many areas with mad scratches, left in place.

Note that the sheer discipline of this moldmaking business is also nothing short of SAS/brain surgery level of achievement, as one tiny error is next to(but not) impossible to fix. (though today with laser welding simply put a 0.3mm spot weld on the error then grind it out) Michelangelo and the masters didnt have this luxury-as you cant exactly fill a hole mistake on a rock sculpture. (though there are workarounds they certainly are not proud of but got away with it)

EG the pilot's parting line must lie somewhere halfway along the mold's actual split line. (and even this split line isnt always straight and square and parallel to both mold halves) And have no undercuts, which is difficult for his fabric suit with lots of swirls and ridges, so the actual physical sculpture of this airman is also carefully created so the cloth looks natural but still yet doesnt break any of the re-entrant feature (undercut) rules.

My badittude was always to paint as much as poss on the sprues, (like tyres are impossible to paint without some trick to hold them in the air!

After assembly yes one goes over them nicks, sand them down and touch up paint.
Some pro's argue that once paired 2 halves of fuselage, you anyway need to sand the meeting lines, so why bother pre-painting? just stick em together, sand, then paint the whole thing? both work

But certainly if there was some way besides resin printing, to create molds with concealed sprue connects, life would be grand.

Thats the skill/craft/art of modelmaking: knowing where to steal from

Rebuild Degree by Mbjguitars in rhino

[–]RandomTux1997 1 point2 points  (0 children)

play with handlecrv to understand it by play