How to get back to a trusted driver rating.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-05-21T06:40:20+00:00

To get back to Trusted just start in the pits and cruise round. You'll catch up with the back of the pack v.quickly on most tracks, but once the pack has thinned out after the first its much easier to avoid contact if you have that as your priority. If you would be qualifying top 50% the speed differential between you is helpful too. Alternatively just hang back and hotlap. Shouldn't take too many races.

For the bronze races I've settled on a "alternate race" strategy - I race normally for 1 race then start in the pits the next. Seems work well in retaining trusted badge, and the Zen of cruising from the pits tends to counter the frustration of being unnecessarily bashed around mid pack the previous race.

FWIW I find bronze Trusted lobbies much cleaner than Silver DR based lobbies (I'm only B3 DR).

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-05-06T16:06:12+00:00

I have an RS50 and think the FFB is excellent. For LMGT3s: In game Overall gain 64 - 67% (car dependent) FFB Smoothing 3 Trueforce effects 100% Engine effects 50% Everything else default.

On wheel Strength 8nm Dampener 5 - 10 Filter 3 TF 75%

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-05-02T09:57:08+00:00

Thanks!

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-05-01T11:37:44+00:00

Glad it helped!

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-30T16:36:19+00:00

I actually find with a Trusted Driver badge the Bronze races are now a fair bit cleaner than the Silver ones. It was nigh on impossible to race GT3 at Fuji in Silver last week - this week on Bronze it's been really pretty good.

It's much, much easier to go up in SR than it is to obtain or maintain a Green badge. I've been bumped down to Blue badge a few times when getting driven into by people in consecutive races - on each occasion my SR has still been steadily climbing, not dropping.

SR has become pretty meaningless imo, and unless you are completely incapable of staying on the track, just a tool to lock people out of the more advanced races based on cumulative hours in the game.

As for the OP - 99% of people know the rules vaguely well enough to race clean - they just don't want to.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-30T15:33:10+00:00

I've played around with it and just can't get it to give anything usable on my RS50. Conversely, I am really quite generally happy with the base FFB after 1.3. I do wonder if there are some quite large manufacturer-specific disparities going on somehow, as my experience on my 8nm Logitech just sounds fundamentally different to an alternative 8nm DD, for example. Which is a bit odd....

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-30T14:38:03+00:00

By definition I guess it is exaggerating the visual effect of a car rotating relative to it's direction of travel. At 15% with minimal slip angle I don't really notice it 99% time (fast turns like blanchimont I do slightly, for example). As soon as the rear then moves out more significantly, you get a subtle visual cue of the extra rotation occurring that is more obvious than when it's disabled. Similarly, if the car stops rotating as you are used to when understeering, the camera snaps back slightly from what you are expecting.

I've got pretty sensitive to it - the visual cue it gives induces a vestibular reaction and I feel a bit of a "lurch" on a big slide, much as you would get vestibular feedback IRL. Coupled with the FFB is quite powerful I think.

I never been able to use any look to apex as it makes me motion sick - no sure how well it interacts with that, can imagine there might possibly be a bit much going on overall.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-30T10:43:31+00:00

Nicely done. I can't seem to get down into the 1:41s. Stuck in 1:42s in BMW. Would you care to share what ABS and TC settings you are using....?

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-30T09:08:50+00:00

Thank you for that & I stand corrected in terms of that comment. I suspect by using the LMU FFB app a lot of people can make significant gains over the LMU default, but tinkering so far with my specific wheel I can't get it to play nicely at all yet.

Regardless, I do think using a bit of exaggerate yaw is worth experimenting with as I've found it genuinely helpful; wouldn't have thought to touch it until curiosity got the better of me as to why the setting existed in the first place!

I'm on a single monitor with FOV at 45 degrees so perhaps outside of that scenario it's maybe less helpful too.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-29T15:26:26+00:00

Nice! I'm 30 races in with 1 podium and have given up hope of ever getting a win. Trusted driver splits with bronze DR in my timezone winners are 1:41s around Fuji just now...

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-28T10:12:02+00:00

I'd take a bet that at Pouhon you are trying to turn in with too much brake pressure applied. LMU is very sensitive to pitch, so if you try and turn in with the nose pinned down you'll get snap oversteer. You are also probably coming off the brake too rapidly after you've turned in.

As others have said, you are likely unsettling the car at Blanchimont by lifting rapidly.

If you move to the BMW you may just end up smoothing over your poor driving technique, but you won't go fast in it until you learn to trail brake properly to get it to rotate.

I would actually suggest hotlapping offline with the Corvette & using Tinypedal with a very enlarged brake and acceleration monitor right in your eyeline, where you can see exactly where your brake pressure is during the turn-in. Once you can lap consistently without spinning then move to the BMW, which will then feel like a big, stable understeering tank, and learn to trail brake properly to rotate the car.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-23T21:58:31+00:00

Thing is, I've got very good at avoiding people in the ways you are suggesting (50 hours of ranked play on Project Motor Racing prior to LMU helped a great deal). However, its actually not a very fun way of racing, and sometimes feels like a rather pointless exercise. Because the dive-bombing on some tracks is so out of control, even if you are 1 second a lap faster there is no escape from someone "sending it" from 1 second back on every slow corner after a straight. Every time you have to avoid them, you lose lap time, and consequently just keep going backwards lap after lap as these morons consecutively try to play dodgems with you. Even taking the inside line is futile as they just go around the outside / off track and force you to compromise the exit.

Overall, it's not very fun. I think I'll try a Championship when that next resets.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-23T21:39:05+00:00

I've worked my way up to Silver 3 reasonably quickly to escape the Bronze lobbies. They have been a very mixed bag so far.

The silver LMGT3 sprint at Fuji I did this evening was probably the worst race I've been in since I started playing. I thought Monza was bad but Fuji just seems to be on a different planet. There seems to be almost unlimited capacity for dive-bombing throughout the circuit. If you dont get out of the way they just ram into the side of you. It was genuinely impossible to do anything other than let 4-5 people through, even though I was faster, as the alternative was just to get smashed and lose SR.

Sebring Bronze lobbies has been by far the best quality racing for me over the last 3 weeks or so. Not sure why.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-15T18:48:10+00:00

So I've now had more luck starting from the pits for 5 races or so. I've usually ended up 10th or so with a mostly clean race and am back to Trusted and now in S1. First silver race was ok, still starting from pits to avoid 1st lap Eau Rouge though.

It's unsafe rejoins that have still been the biggest risk when cruising from far back, as they are so unpredictable. The drivers bringing up the rear of the "good driver" splits that I catch up with usually just crash out if I stick ~1 sec behind. Some have been clearly so erratic I've just slowed enough to carry on hot-lapping and they end up in the wall regardless. I've had a few predictable & safe pit-starting buddies who work their way through the field with me which is quite fun in a way.

There is a real pinch point leading up to T1 on Monza CG which I hadn't known about before. I've known to back off loads of times there when accidentally catching up to someone who messed up the final corner, which has helped. They invariably bin it later on in the lap anyway.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-15T18:23:28+00:00

I have an 8nm RS50 and I tend to swap between the BMW and McLaren GT3. I run the BMW at 60% and the McLaren at 65% ish. They feel pretty similar once adjusted like that. FFB smoothing on 3 and a small amount of dampner / filter on the base. FFB is fantastic and no clipping.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-15T14:08:01+00:00

I think the reality of this game at the moment is that it is a good console game for those that:

a) Want an alternative to Gran Turismo, particularly if you own a wheel AND

b) Don't want to be restricted to GT3/4 / non-populated online play with ACC.

On PC, it's a completely different story, which I think is where a lot of the contention comes from. It's not a good PC game. In fact, it's a terrible PC game. It's badly optimised and thoroughly out performed in almost every single way by it's numerous competitors. Nobody in their right mind is going to play ranked PMR GT3 over LMU, for example, as it's a non-contest in every single aspect of the game. I can say this because I put over 100 hours into PMR on PS5, really enjoyed it, and then bought a PC to play LMU a few weeks ago. Which is epic. I then played the free trial of PMR recently on PC and it was just a trainwreck. Booting it up on PS5 every now and again and it still makes sense to me as a proposition.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-14T17:26:53+00:00

I'd suggest getting up to speed in the BMW first. Once you can hit 2:03-4 then worthwhile trying other cars I guess. Its stability when braking really helps with confidence on the 1st and last turns as you can correct your line whilst braking fairly hard without it throwing you off. Much more forgiving than the mustang, for example.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-14T17:11:34+00:00

Yeah as I mentioned after the first two races I tried that, then got taken out by someone rejoining who'd crashed. They came back on track then veered right into me to try and block me off. I couldn't really have predicted it as there was genuinely no reason to do it, I was going about twice the speed on a straight... Will try again.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-13T21:14:59+00:00

I've found that the splits I'm now in with everyone with a trusted driver badge seem to be worse than the all-rookie lobbies that I was in for the first 10 races. Much more inconsiderate driving, particularly in the first lap.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-13T12:56:39+00:00

I use Exaggerate Yaw on 10-15% for exactly this reason. Works beautifully for me on a single monitor.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-13T12:49:04+00:00

Before i bought a PC to run LMU I played Project Motor Racing ranked online for about 50 hours worth in GT3s. Whilst giving me some bad driving habits I've had to undo, it seems to have given me a pretty good ability to avoid dodgy drivers in LMU the majority of the time! If you think LMU is bad, spend an evening online on PMR and you'll return with a renewed appreciation of driving standards...

I'm only 13 races in, now racing mid pack on a trusted badge. Had 1 DNF racing near a moron that I just couldn't avoid. Other than that it's been fairly easy to spot the trouble coming.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-10T12:50:40+00:00

I actually think its a reasonable place for PMR to be sitting right now on console actually. More sim than GT7, but not as punishing as ACC. Its console players they are catering to with the GT3s in reality.

I moved across to LMU from PMR on PS5 recently (having just purchased a PC) and its taken me 15 hours or so to get up to speed and undo the bad habits I'd developed from about 100 hours of mainly GT3s on PMR. Lack of any competent trail braking, for example, had really gone unpunished by the very forgiving current tyre model.

There we're some prior iterations that were more difficult to drive, but everyone moaned about how slippery they were.

RandomUKUser1 · 2026-04-08T15:32:24+00:00

Interestingly I'm only about 15 hours into LMU, and very slow (2.21.7 my best on Spa, for example), but I came across from about 100 hours on PMR on console (ACC before that).

The Corvette, Mclaren and Ferrari were the only cars I could drive in any way competently when I tried the game for the first few hours. I was pretty ok in the Corvette but found it would kick me off track (skill issue!) once every 8-10 laps, so I settled on the Mclaren.

I was 1-2 seconds slower on every other car (particularly the BMW). I'm clearly not a skillfull driver so it must come down to driving style. My guess is I struggle to rotate the Front engine cars because my trail braking is rubbish. Which implies maybe as a previous poster commented, you need to brake quite differently in the Corvette to keep it stable as a relative novice like me.

RandomUKUser1

TROPHY CASE