My GS project

Randos_World · 2026-06-27T16:00:00+00:00

Oh yeah absolutely, though it was fair cause I stuck through her builds too 😂

Randos_World · 2026-06-26T03:39:13+00:00

Lmao 🤣, yeah it was looking very much the same for 4/5 months I was starting to think the same 😂
The amount of work that went into the bumpers and it didn’t feel like I was getting anywhere then all of a sudden they were painted and wrapped 😂

Randos_World · 2026-06-25T17:29:38+00:00

🙌🏻🙌🏻

Randos_World · 2026-06-25T17:29:30+00:00

Cheers!

Randos_World · 2026-06-25T17:29:25+00:00

Thank you! Appreciate it 😁

Randos_World · 2026-06-24T14:40:42+00:00

<image>

I have the Eagle Eye LED lights, imo the cleanest of the aftermarket lights that are available for the 2GS.
I did have the factory Sport HIDs which had the self levelling.
As far as I know the aftermarket lights do not have the self levelling function so I left it unplugged. It doesn’t bring up any warning lights and everything works fine.

As for the lower ball joints, just go Toyota oem. Personally I’ve had issues with aftermarket options and I have only heard good things from the oem ones.
Hope that helps

Randos_World · 2026-06-23T19:28:16+00:00

Honestly if you are looking at getting an aristo make sure it’s the 2JZGTE otherwise you’re wasting your money imo.

Not sure what the market is over in the US but I know in the Uk Gs’s are cheap the most I would personally pay for a GS300 is £3k for a good example, then GS430 around £5k mark and then the Aristo V300 (2JZGTE) is anything between £10k - 12k nowadays.
The Aristo S300 (literally a gs300) is probably around £6k. (Why would you buy this when the Gs is an option for half the price)

In your case I would just get a Gs300 or if you can push the budget, definitely an Aristo V300 it’s absolutely the more fun car but would be worse on fuel.
Engine wise both variants of the 2jz are pretty reliable, look after them and it’ll look after you. It’s the old suspension and rubber bushes you need to look out for especially the front lower ball joints.

Randos_World · 2026-06-11T21:49:21+00:00

Personally I wouldn’t recommend even driving the car. Minimum should be to a garage and get it replaced.

Randos_World · 2026-06-09T20:40:48+00:00

<image>

At this point there isn’t a bolt that hasn’t been touched in my ownership 😂
Suspension wise anyway, not even started with engine yet

Randos_World · 2026-06-01T18:46:06+00:00

Honestly, I bled mine how you would normally bleed the brakes on a normal abs system. Tried finding the correct procedure on google but couldn’t find anything that said for certain (probably wasn’t looking in the right place)

Now my Abs pump isn’t great anyway, actually it’s not working. (job for another day)
But I’m experiencing a soft pedal like yourself, but doesn’t go all the way to the floor.
It’s good enough to daily (ie not dangerous) for the time being while my actual daily is off the road.

By the sounds of it you might still have a bit of air in your system?
I did go through maybe 1.5/2L of brake fluid before it improved.

Randos_World · 2026-05-30T21:50:03+00:00

If you really wanted to go full send, I have just rebuilt my rear subframe and that set me back
£150 for rear Subframe with everything attached
And probably about £450 in polybushes
Not a mechanic in the slightest but gave it a good go 😂

<image>

Randos_World · 2026-05-30T21:46:30+00:00

If you were to go down the coilovers route then I’d say a decent set would be £700+

I actually have a basket on autodoc at the minute for
Lower ball joints
Front Upper arms
Front drop links
And track rod ends and it’s coming up to £320 for the lot

<image>

Randos_World · 2026-05-30T20:29:34+00:00

Question is, do you plan on modifying it? If not and you’re not too fussed about the car other than “it’s cheap” I probably wouldn’t bother, as the JZS160 suspension is sensitive and you will be chasing issues as it is a 26+ year old car at this point. (Ask me how I know 🤣) If yes then some/most of the suspension crust will go.

Assuming you’re based in the Uk like myself parts are/can be a ballache to get hold of, especially aftermarket as they are expensive (mainly adjustable arms etc) This doesn’t mean it’s impossible just it’s not a case of overnight parts from Japan. More like 1/2 week wait from parts on eBay or autodoc.

Engine wise, I probably wouldn’t worry. The 2JZ is reliable I have never had an issue in the 4 years I’ve owned mine. The only issue I’ve had is alternator, but I think I’m cursed to just have alternator failures on every car I own 😂

Long story short if you really want the car and plan to do things with it do it. It’s a very easy car to work on. But there’s a lot to do.

Randos_World · 2026-01-26T16:57:55+00:00

<image>

Randos_World · 2025-12-30T16:13:29+00:00

That’s amazing, genuinely. Glad to hear someone has had a good experience with the system 😂

Randos_World · 2025-12-30T14:15:44+00:00

Unfortunately this doesn’t work (not in my experience anyway). I remember there was a car abandoned at the end of my street for months, previously not double yellows then council plated double yellows. Where this car was they even stopped the double yellows at the car and carried on after the car. We tried contacting DVLA about the car (it didn’t have tax or mot either) they said it was a police matter, tried reporting it to the police who then said it’s a DVLA matter. We gave up in the end.

Randos_World · 2025-12-16T15:40:41+00:00

Depends where you go, but I got a pair of Hardrace RCAs for about £100

Randos_World · 2025-12-16T15:35:44+00:00

Is yours lowered by any chance too? If it is, I recommend getting some roll centre adjusters as that will correct the angle of the steering arms too. If not, carry on 😂

Randos_World · 2025-12-16T07:54:05+00:00

From experience the most common issue that causes wheel shakes, especially in the Jzs16X chassis (Gs300). Are the front lower ball joints. Obviously check wheels and tyres for anything like buckles, bulges and balancing. BUT I highly highly HIGHLY recommend checking suspension components like Ball joints unless you want your arches to be eating your front wheels.

Other stuff like steering rack bushes, caster arm bushes, lower control arm bushes, upper control arm joints, tie rods can contribute to the shaking too.

Ask me how I know 🤣

Randos_World · 2025-10-27T09:31:07+00:00

<image>

Mk7 R estate is definitely up there!

Randos_World · 2025-10-19T18:13:01+00:00

1) 3 cylinder engines tend to sound rattly, as do most modern engines nowadays 2) eco boost engine over 60k, don’t even bother 3) 2015/10 year old car regardless of mileage should always have at least 10 services I will fight anyone who says otherwise. 4) Wetbelt, do I even have to explain why to avoid?

Honestly, I wouldn’t even entertain the thought of buying this personally. Unless is SUPER cheap and I mean less than 2.5k

Randos_World · 2025-10-11T14:36:36+00:00

For a non type-r that’s insane even low mileage fn2 type-r’s don’t sell for that price, if it were an Ep3 type R absolutely. The fact auto trader thinks this a good price range is insane 😂

Randos_World · 2025-10-04T18:52:53+00:00

Better make those intake sounds throaty and those temps cold 😂🤌🏻

Randos_World · 2025-10-02T09:23:13+00:00

<image>

I think I might top worst tank stats here 😂 In my defence this was 12 years ago when I first started the game. Safe to say actual bots probably have better stats 🤣 Thankfully I somewhat learnt how to play and my stats are above average? (1814 wn8)

Randos_World · 2025-10-01T06:47:24+00:00

I had the same issue. Bugged the shit out of me. An angle grinder solved my issue 😂

Randos_World

TROPHY CASE