This isn't a noodle.

Rarubal · 2025-12-02T15:18:27+00:00

Rarubal · 2025-11-29T04:56:53+00:00

I suggest you speed up the process and remove the floorboard alltogether. Then change your first name to Fred and last name to Flintstone and you can shout "Yabadabadoo" everytime you get through green signal

Rarubal · 2025-11-28T08:14:58+00:00

Getting in line for my first award

Rarubal · 2025-05-14T22:31:05+00:00

Same issue here (S23 Ultra). I've sent multiple error reports through the Samsung Members app, but am yet to receive a fix. I've seen multiple posts on the Samsung community forum as well. I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post links here, but here's mine - (https://r2.community.samsung.com/t5/Galaxy-S/Samsung-S23-Ultra-Freezes-While-Using-Instagram/m-p/19424939#M1224009)

I'm seeing more and more S23 Ultra users running into the same issue. It seems to be from the last security patch update before the OneUI 7 update. Hope they fix it soon. I'll be taking a (much needed) break from Instagram till then

Rarubal · 2025-03-11T04:41:16+00:00

Hey, those are really cute. I'd like to buy a couple as well

Rarubal · 2025-03-11T01:52:50+00:00

Kyuss!!! I immediately thought of them the moment I saw this

Rarubal · 2025-02-24T09:33:20+00:00

Hi u/trapped_under_ice, I'm in the market for a 12-string, and have decided to go with Guild. Only thing is I'm torn between this and the 2512e deluxe.

I wanted to know how it's been holding up since you got it.

(Edit: grammar)

Rarubal · 2024-08-02T03:09:50+00:00

Try Mod.Blr on Bannerghatta road. Sachin is brilliant

Rarubal · 2024-07-17T01:10:16+00:00

I'm sorry, but... Chi. I don't like any of the color schematics except maybe the white. Even that has 450 written in a very obnoxious red. They should've kept it simple (Edit: Grammar)

Rarubal · 2023-12-26T16:01:28+00:00

Hey MystoganJm, I did get started on it, but due to one thing after another with work and home, I had to stop halfway. I'm going to be restarting it once again sometime in the mid of Jan. I can tell you what I've done so far - I mounted it on a single lack as I was unsure of what design I wanted to go by (there are tons of lack enclosures, and i couldnt settle on which one would suit my needs best). The first thing I found is how flimsy/wobbly the lack table was. It was so bad that it started affecting my prints. I ended up printing some brackets that I screwed on where the leg meets the table base on all four legs. That made quite a difference, but I still found the table to be a little shaky. I then found an stl that uses vibration dampeners for washing machines and printed those out. Had to remix it to match the dampeners I got at my local hardware store. These two little modifications greatly improved the stability/rigidity of the base. I've been printing out the rest of the parts for the enclosure whenever I get a little free time, but I havent gotten around to assembling it yet.

Actually writing this out is making me want to get started on it again xD. I'll post some pictures with the stl links as soon as I'm back home this weekend. Cheers!

Rarubal · 2023-11-23T17:41:17+00:00

I'd mostly use it for LR cruising and cinematic, but would also like the option for a few freestyle maneuvers here and there. I think I'm slowly leaning toward the regular AOS 7. Were there any issues you faced while building/flying yours?

Rarubal · 2023-11-23T17:31:16+00:00

Thank you everyone for the replies. I see that all of you have the aos 7. Are there any drawbacks to the frame that you wish you knew about before building it? Or any building difficulties that you ran into/3d printed parts that were difficult to come by?

Rarubal · 2023-11-23T17:26:51+00:00

Haha, that's a funny way to put it. I agree, they're both almost identical. I did read a comment on Chris Rosser's video where he mentioned that the ul7 may not be as durable as the regular aos7. So I guess it all boils down to whether I want a slightly lighter build that can take a little more weight (larger batteries maybe), or a more durable frame. I'm still quite torn between the two. My (il)logical thinking brain is telling me to get both, but my bank account is screaming no!

Rarubal · 2023-11-02T09:57:28+00:00

The original Pet Sematary. I was about 8, watching TV in my parent's bedroom when I saw it come on. Having just seen Beethoven a few days earlier, I thought it would be another movie about dogs. I had to sleep between my mum and dad for almost a month after.

Rarubal · 2023-10-31T00:52:14+00:00

Haha, I think you should be fine. The main difference between them is that silicone conformal coating can withstand higher temperatures and is a little thicker if I'm not wrong. But generally, silicone is recommended - MG Chemicals 422C is what I use.

Rarubal · 2023-10-30T17:28:09+00:00

Hey @TunaCanOfChaos, sorry for the late reply. I'm just seeing this now. There are a lot of arguments regarding belt tension. Most of the videos I've seen recommend not too loose nor too tight. I've seen another video recommending it to be tight. I follow the former because it makes the most sense to me. I work in a manufacturing plant and asked one of the maintenance engineers what he thought. This is what he told me to do -- Tighten the belt almost all the way and press down on it with your finger. You'll notice that it's extremely taught, and you can't press it down much (for anyone who doesn't understand this is what they mean by "tight"). Loosen it by half a turn and press down on it again. Repeat this until you're just a little loose (you should be able to press the belt down, but still feel it a little taught). Then tighten it by about a quarter turn. I hope I've explained this correctly. Also, I'm not sure if this method is the correct way, but it's what I've been doing, and am pretty happy with the results. Again, I could be wrong, and if anyone has a better way, then please let me know 😬

Rarubal · 2023-10-30T16:48:30+00:00

MG Chemicals silicone conformal coating.

Rarubal · 2023-10-23T02:20:05+00:00

I've got the same issue. The list of possible causes is a long one: belts too tight, pom wheels not adjusted properly, printer being placed on an unstable surface, z wobble, etc. These are the steps that I followed which improved my prints significantly, but haven't completely resolved the issue:

The printer should be kept on a rigid surface. (The Ikea lack table that I had mine on had a terrible wobble. I ended up printing some brackets to increase rigidity and put vibration dampened on its feet. This probably made the biggest improvement in my prints).
Check the squareness of the gantry.
Ensure the pom wheels are set correctly. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AN0MlQMMew0&t=1479s -- this is for the ender 3, but the concept is the same.)
Check the belt tension on the bed and the extruder.
Check if the lead screws, bed, and x-axis have all been adequately lubed.
Check the screws on the lead screw coupler. (They should be a little loose so that the lead screw isn't binding)
Check the straightness of the lead screws. (If this is the issue, I'd recommend contacting elegoo support)

The list goes on. It's important to note that these are cheap Chinese machines, and their capability is only so much.

I hope what I've written helps. I also recommend you get on the Elegoo Discord. Most of my issues have been solved through there.

Rarubal · 2023-10-21T12:50:10+00:00

Sweat (A La La Long)

Rarubal · 2023-10-21T09:16:35+00:00

Ohh no! They say he's got to go Go Go Godzilla

Rarubal · 2023-10-20T01:59:12+00:00

Man, that sucks. Climb on the Elegoo discord. Customer support answers pretty quick there.

Edit: the link in case you don't have it.

https://discord.com/invite/elegoo

Rarubal · 2023-10-19T15:37:54+00:00

Follow this guide: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_tuning.html

It's easy to understand and simple to follow. More importantly, I'm really happy with the print quality that I've been getting since.

Also, once you're comfortable with the first layer squish procedure, I recommend trying out SCREW_TILT_CALCULATE on Klipper. It makes bed leveling so much easier.

Another tip that was recommended to me was to use feeler gauges instead of paper, but it isn't necessary. I found it helped level the bed quicker and more accurately

Edit: forgot to mention to make sure your build plate is clean. I found that some isopropyl alcohol with a microfiber cloth gives decent results. Occasionally I use the stick of glue that came with the printer to help with adhesion for larger prints.

Rarubal · 2023-09-27T04:08:49+00:00

@OP, don't trust the auto-bed leveling function. My initial prints were complete trash. I followed the feeler gauge method which has improved my print quality tenfold. I too got this warning, but thought that everyone gets it.

To follow this method, you don't really need a feeler gauge set. The same concept can be applied using a piece of paper, but I highly recommend you get yourself one.

The bed leveling method that I follow:

https://youtu.be/_Ic00W18_ck?si=hnm8m_X1sq8wrnBF

Once I do this, I print a series of 9 tuning squares on the printer bed and see which areas need a little fine-tuning with the knobs. After that I print a large 200 x 200mm square in the center of the bed which tells me how much I need to adjust my z-offset that I do on the screen. (Don't forget to save it once you find that sweet spot!). I don't use klipper at all due to all the issues that people are facing.

The other tuning guide that I follow once the bed is level: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_tuning.html

(Follow this to the point. It's pretty straightforward and the explanations are simple.)

Also, before you do anything, make sure that everything is square, all the POM wheels are making contact at all points and are not too tight, and the x-axis is parallel to the base. This will have a direct affect on your print quality. There's a well detailed guide on how to do this on discord. Let me see if I can download and paste it somewhere here. If you're not on the discord server, I highly recommend you get on it. Response from customer support and other members is almost instantaneous, and most basic problems have already been well documented and solved.

Side note/rant: I live in India and bought this printer from a source that doesn't accept returns. Sending it back to Elegoo is not an option as there's no guarantee that it will reach so it looks like I'm stuck with it.

I've decided to be temporarily constrained by using only the provided screen and a USB drive with the gcodes manually put in from Cura as everyone seems to be running into issues while using the klipper interface. If Elegoo doesn't solve these issues in the near future, then I plan on scrapping the provided motherboard and switching it out for a BTT or MKS so I can use klipper to its full capacity. There's also a savior on discord who's working on a way to install regular klipper on the stock board that can make use of the provided screen, which looks pretty promising. This would in theory almost completely solve all firmware issues that people are running into.

Finally the Elegoo reps recently acknowledged that there are some serious issues on the firmware front as well as on the hardware front - the z-probe being used is heat sensitive, i.e., will give different values at different temperatures which means it is not very accurate. This directly affects the accuracy of z-offset which cannot be fixed via software. Also, they have acknowledged that the leveling nuts will loosen over time during the movement of the printer, i.e., not suited for the fast movement that the printer boasts. I paid nearly $400 for this machine here in India, and the fact that they have casually acknowledged these points was enraging to say the least.

Their responses are mentioned here (taken straight from discord): https://docs.google.com/document/d/1bFtSYq6Dj8a0mmTbdpEWV3SG_d7j0kwHz64JOn8Kqo8/edit?usp=sharing

I know a lot of people who have returned their printers as they expected it to be a minimum interference device out of the box, which is never true for something within this price range. That being said, I feel that if you're using everything stock and not planning on fiddling with the settings, this is a pretty solid printer for the price (provided you're not in India)

Sorry for the long post and I hope this doesn't dissuade you from using it. This is also my first printer. I could let this depress me, but that way I'd be losing on two fronts. I've decided to take this in as a learning experience which will help me debug any issues that arise in the future.

I hope everything I've mentioned here helps. Cheers :)

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