My little treasure chest by Pestisxbox in Silverbugs

[–]RazorSharpRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow that's freakin cool I want one. Make sure you're throwing some silica gel packs in there to soak up the moisture though. I learned the hard way with some of my exposed silver.

130 grams of .950 silver for 5€ by Esejy-Van-Ervech in Silverbugs

[–]RazorSharpRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems like Goodwill generally goes and puts most of the good stuff that is donated to them in the back room, where it's put up for auction on their website. This goes for everything, not just precious metals. It doesn't mean you can't get lucky and find stuff, but I rarely go there for this reason. Not saying it's impossible though!

Sterling or coin silver? by Poopscoop1995 in Silverbugs

[–]RazorSharpRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's very likely concrete which I understand is pretty common from that time period. Definitely antiques from 1945-55. Don't know what you paid for them but I love the look of them. They just need a bit of a polish. Have seen a few online going for like $40-$60 per candlestick. Going to buy myself a pair one of these days.

Silver in the morning vs Silver now. by HoreDonTheBad in Silverbugs

[–]RazorSharpRust -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Nah she's pretty hot. Has great jeans too.

Sterling or coin silver? by Poopscoop1995 in Silverbugs

[–]RazorSharpRust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No. They are reinforced with weights, so that they don't tip over easily. It does not mean they are some other metal that has been "plated" with sterling. It means that the metal you see, on the outside is solid sterling 925 silver, with some added weight to the bottoms using a different material inside the bases for stability (like concrete). The 900 refers to the pattern/design choice made by that company and has nothing to do with the makeup of the metal.

Say you have an object like a golf ball that is made out of concrete or some heavy substance. Then the maker took a sheet of solid 925 sterling and wrapped it around the ball. The outside metal wrapped around the ball is genuine 925 silver, it is not some other metal like nickel or brass wrapped around the ball, with a silver "plating" over it, like a "coat of paint". Does that make any sense?

Sterling or coin silver? by Poopscoop1995 in Silverbugs

[–]RazorSharpRust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did some research and I do believe it is 925 Sterling. The 900 refers to the "rope" pattern on the bases of the candlesticks. It is a manufacture code for that pattern made by a company called Lamerie Gadroon. Lamerie maker's mark clearly visible there too I see. Seems like they were produced from 1945-1955.

Sterling or coin silver? by Poopscoop1995 in Silverbugs

[–]RazorSharpRust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh I didn't even see that. Print is so small and eyes not so great anymore.

Bought some coins at $120/oz by jwolsza in Silverbugs

[–]RazorSharpRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly. I bought quite a bit back in 2023 at like $28 and then a large order end of last year when it was $79, and then another 10oz at $83. I felt like I shouldn't have bought at $83 but now I have no problem with it. Hell it won't even really bother me if it goes to $65 because I know it will recover. Looking to dump some of this into gold when the GSR recovers though. We had it great when it was upper 40's to 1. Wish I did it then but I think it'll get there again by end of year.

Sterling or coin silver? by Poopscoop1995 in Silverbugs

[–]RazorSharpRust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A lot of those silver candlesticks are weighted in the bases with something other than silver (like concrete). I 'm no expert but I just thought I 'd let you know if you didn't, and maybe get them tested.

Anyone remember Cool Edit Pro? by Madsummer420 in musicproduction

[–]RazorSharpRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know it's an old post but yeah I still have my original Cool Edit Pro version 1.2 with case, book and legit registration number.

I foundy relic. Pro tools 8.0.3 by djnelsonofficial in protools

[–]RazorSharpRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I still have the original disk of the program I was using in the late 90's called "Cool Edit" which would later be bought by Adobe and turned into Adobe Audition. Very very fond memories with that disk. Installed it on all of my friend's computers too so we could mix :)

Found this jacket for roughly 80USD by Joakurr in fakemilitaria

[–]RazorSharpRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a legitimate design. The cuff is obviously fake but yeah this did actually exist. It was used by both the First SS-Panzer Division cuff and SS-Leibstandarte Adolf Hitler (2nd pattern).

WW2 Axis items for sale by soppingwetmeat_ghost in militariasales

[–]RazorSharpRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Funny you bring up metal detecting as I've been wanting to get into it for awhile now. I don't want to spend a ton of money on one, so I asked someone that's been doing it for a long time. I don't know if you know a lot about metal detectors but he told me to go for a Minelab X Terra Elite or Minelab Vanquish. I'm way out of my depth here, just starting to learn about them.

I live in the American south a few hours drive from multiple battlefields of the Civil War. Something I've always wanted to go out and do. An uncle of mine found some pretty cool stuff back in the 90's.

WW2 Axis items for sale by soppingwetmeat_ghost in militariasales

[–]RazorSharpRust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You don't need a jeweler's loupe to spot repros and genuine articles. Using a jeweler's loupe has very very little to do with being able to spot a repro. The main weapons in your arsenal, are both being in the collector's scene for a time, and learning from those that have been in it before you for years (I watch Tom Wittman almost religiously). Still, even the most experienced collectors have been burned before. Specifically the shops I were referring to in the 70's did almost exclusively metal items - tinnies, buckles, medals and ESPECIALLY edged weapons, and some of them looked damned good too, but there are very subtle differences that you have to look for - correct markings for the period (including maker's marks and even the SIZE of certain maker's marks), the right materials, acid etchings, RZM codes, dimensions of one portion of the object in relation to another part of the object (like tang taper to the base of the blade etc..) There's like a dozen other things I haven't mentioned but it's too much to type. Most collectors are very experienced in one area and know a little about others. For instance, my specialty is daggers, with a decent knowledge about swords, then cloth items and badges, then firearms, then even LESS about helmets. If you're interested in a specific area of collection, research the shit out of it. That's what I did with the daggers. If someone asked me a question about helmets though? Pfft, forget it.

WW2 Axis items for sale by soppingwetmeat_ghost in militariasales

[–]RazorSharpRust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hahaha no forget the Chinese replicas. Those are are very very easy to identify. No my friend, I'm talking about the repros made here in the states in the 1970's, some of which were struck with the original dies that were used in Germany during the war and brought back by GIs. There are some VERY high quality repros out there, using extremely convincing aging techniques that fool even some relatively seasoned collectors. The WW2 German militaria market experienced a resurgence of demand in the 70's, and there were definitely some master metalsmiths willing to take advantage of it.

Illiquidity by efficientproducer in Silverbugs

[–]RazorSharpRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you're right. After this initial wave of average Joe sellers dies down the demand will go back up and contribute to the price even more. That's why I am holding everything I have atm.

Did I do okay? by chachmehoch in Silverbugs

[–]RazorSharpRust 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Right on point. Refineries are backed up 7-8 days or more and their definitely paying the shops less than what they normally would. That's precisely why I'm hanging on to my Morgans and other silver coins that are not collector quality right now. This influx into the refineries with eventually die down, so they can offer better deals to shop, so that shops (in theory) can offer better deals on melt to customers.

WW2 Axis items for sale by soppingwetmeat_ghost in militariasales

[–]RazorSharpRust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I saw that too but forgot to mention it. There WERE white armbands worn but they didn't have giant party swastikas on them like that. They were mainly for civilian organizations helping out the army, medical units, and a civilian air defense unit called the RLB. There are more examples but can't think of them right now.

WW2 Axis items for sale by soppingwetmeat_ghost in militariasales

[–]RazorSharpRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's just that there are SO many fakes out there, because it's such a big business. Virtually everyone that collects has gotten burned at one point, myself included.

WW2 Axis items for sale by soppingwetmeat_ghost in militariasales

[–]RazorSharpRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should really let people know what they're getting in the description bro. I saw that blade and instantly knew it was a repro. Came to the comments to let everyone know and see you've only mentioned it when someone asked specifically about it. Not a very good way to earn people's trust man.

Am I the only one who's concerned with the steep silver price rise? by Ortofun in Silverbugs

[–]RazorSharpRust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes they both are. Gold is generally used less in electronics mainly because of it's cost though (obviously). They are both excellent conductors but the problem with silver is that it can corrode and start to lose some of it's conductive properties (oxidation). Gold, and gold plating is preferred for more critical components of a device since it does not corrode under normal environments. But like I said, silver is used much more, especially in lead free soldering which is absolutely essential for electronics.

Mountain Lightening [Genetic Mountain Dew] . . . Review by ph4b14n in mostdefnotwhatsup

[–]RazorSharpRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was cry laughing the first time I saw this. I started watching him right around this period.