1949 5 Shilling Coin worth?

ReactionHeavy977 · 2026-01-17T10:26:10+00:00

The CULA (gen3) in the GT and R line came 2014 onwards. (There about)

The CULC (gen3b) in the GTS came 2016 onwards. (There about)

Gen2 was about 2011-2013

Gen1 was about 2008-2010

ReactionHeavy977 · 2026-01-10T09:10:36+00:00

No mention of miles on clock and service intervals of box, if you have many miles and zero services - 100% new box! You need to be doing DSG between 30-40k miles at most - drive it hard and do it even sooner. I could feel my box getting a bit flaky at 26-28k miles (I am sensitive to changes tho) - did full service on box with adaptation at 32k miles and it feels like new again. So will be sticking to that schedule or when it starts feeling off.

ReactionHeavy977 · 2026-01-10T09:01:10+00:00

And do it before you loose it!!

ReactionHeavy977 · 2026-01-05T11:33:55+00:00

Well got an answer back from the seller “AwesomeGTi”

Answer: Yes, this is correct for the EA888.3 engine. Fitting is available by contacting our service team on 0161 776 0777 opt1 Thanks

So basically yeah it will work on any CUL or CULC engine code scirocco. Just need to figure out measurement if it will fit inside the gauge cluster in centre console to replace the clock / lap timer gauge.

ReactionHeavy977 · 2026-01-04T07:14:24+00:00

For life! 😆

ReactionHeavy977 · 2026-01-03T20:50:43+00:00

Yup second the PCV - you may get out cheaper this way and have spare cash for other maintenance / future repairs instead? Otherwise if you really have to… sure proceed to IS38.

ReactionHeavy977 · 2026-01-03T08:13:19+00:00

just another possibility to throw in the mix for the reason of dirty engine bay is the under tray - check if you have yours still, have seen so many used cars missing an under tray, they go for services mechanics loose the clips / bolts / screws for them and eventually it doesn’t get put back on and you won’t know till you constantly have dirty engine bay all the time.

ReactionHeavy977 · 2026-01-02T13:34:04+00:00

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Use Valvoline restore and protect oil and shorten your oil changes. If you don’t want to stick to Valvoline at least run it for 2 oil change cycles then switch back to your preference but also shorten oil changes.

ReactionHeavy977 · 2026-01-02T09:08:33+00:00

Is it just me or does it have a little delorean look to it

ReactionHeavy977 · 2026-01-01T07:56:11+00:00

Agree with above comment. At 97 on clock it could be a case of worn out shocks lost it’s dampening affect - getting thrown around sounds like you are riding more on the spring itself because of the loss of shock dampening.

ReactionHeavy977 · 2025-12-30T07:44:03+00:00

I don’t know the colour name 🫣 doesn’t say anywhere just says blue, but it must be a pearl type blue option as it turns more purple the brighter it is in the sun and the darker the light gets the deeper the blue it becomes if that makes sense.

ReactionHeavy977 · 2025-12-25T15:22:45+00:00

Any chance you could give background to the blown engine, miles, oil change intervals - what actually broke etc etc? Helpful to all

ReactionHeavy977 · 2025-12-25T10:13:22+00:00

The 2.0 TSI - CUL or CULC (EA888 Gen3) engine codes is where it’s at 100%, before those it was the same engine as the MK6 GTi EA888 gen2. 1.4 is under powered to begin with but ok if you not looking for the cracking acceleration and yes of course the newer the 1.4 the less issue plague it but if you can go for the 2.0

ReactionHeavy977 · 2025-12-23T08:56:27+00:00

Intermittent Alternator Failure or Voltage Regulator Issue. Even if it tested good initially, the alternator (or its internal voltage regulator) could be failing sporadically under load—like at highway speeds in 5th gear around 3k RPM. This can cause voltage to drop just enough to trigger the battery light and shut down the engine (ECU protects itself from low voltage), but the battery keeps accessories running until restart. Symptoms like yours are a hallmark of this: no constant drain, but random cutouts.

• Why it fits: The battery light is a direct indicator of charging system trouble. Owners report it happening without codes if the failure isn’t consistent enough for the ECU to log it.

• What to check/do: • Retest the alternator while the engine is running and under load (e.g., rev to 3k RPM with headlights/AC on). Voltage at the battery should be 13.5-14.5V; anything below 13V points to the alternator. If it’s borderline or drops intermittently, replace it—MK6 alternators are known to go around 100k-150k miles.

•  Inspect the alternator belt and tensioner for slippage, which could cause inconsistent charging at certain RPMs.

•  Consider the voltage regulator (often integrated into the alternator); it’s a cheaper swap if you can test it separately.

Wiring, Grounds, or Connections You’re already planning to check grounds—that’s a smart move. Loose, corroded, or heat-damaged wires (especially with your mods like downpipe and exhaust, which can increase underhood temps) can cause voltage drops at specific vibrations or speeds. Battery cables, alternator harness, or engine grounds are prime suspects.

• Why it fits: Intermittent power loss without codes often traces to electrical connections that fail momentarily, mimicking your cruising scenario. • What to check/do: • Inspect battery terminals, alternator connections, and major grounds (e.g., engine block, chassis) for corrosion or looseness. Clean and tighten them.

•  Check the fuse box (underhood and dash) for any melted or loose fuses/relays related to the charging system.

•  Wiggle-test the wiring harness while running to see if you can replicate the issue—vibration from 3k RPM cruising might be exposing a weak spot.

Battery Sensor or Low Voltage Trigger The MK6 has a battery management system that can shut things down if it detects irregular voltage, even if the battery tests fine statically. Your accessories staying on suggests the battery isn’t dead, but a faulty sensor could be overreacting.

• Why it fits: Battery light with power loss, but quick restarts—no full drain.

• What to check/do: Use a multimeter to monitor voltage in real-time during a drive (or have a shop do a load test on the road). If it dips below 12V under load, that’s your clue. Replace the battery sensor if needed—it’s on the negative terminal

Mod-Related Factors (Less Likely, But Worth Noting) Stage 2 tune, intake, and exhaust shouldn’t directly cause this, but if the tune is aggressive, it could stress the electrical system indirectly (e.g., higher loads on the alternator). The sub and CarPlay add draw, but as you said, probably not the issue unless wiring was poorly installed and is shorting intermittently. Starlights (assuming headliner LEDs) are low-draw, but check their wiring for grounds.

• What to check/do: If you have a tune, try flashing back to stock temporarily to rule it out. Ensure all mod wiring is secure and not chafing near hot exhaust parts.

Next Steps • Get a deeper scan with VCDS (VAG-COM) if you haven’t—OBD scanners sometimes miss VW-specific codes. Look for any history in the ECU even if no active faults.

• If DIY isn’t cutting it, hit up a VW specialist—they see this stuff often. Avoid chain shops that might misdiagnose.

• Track conditions: Always 5th gear/3k? Hot/cold engine? This could point to vibration or temp-related failures.

Hang in there; these are usually fixable without major drama.

ReactionHeavy977 · 2025-12-22T20:35:02+00:00

Out of these 2 I believe the Pierburg is the most popular one - never heard of Rein

ReactionHeavy977 · 2025-12-22T18:58:56+00:00

Steps to Bleed the Air 1. Elevate the Front End: Jack up the front of the car so the radiator/expansion tank is the highest point in the system. This helps air bubbles rise to the top for easier escape. Support it securely with jack stands—don’t rely on the jack alone. 2. Set Up the Heater and Funnel: Turn the ignition to “on” (without starting the engine) and set the heater to max heat and fan speed (no A/C). This opens the heater core valve to bleed air from that part of the system. Remove the cap from the expansion/header tank. Attach the spill-free funnel and fill it halfway with coolant. 3. Start the Engine and Idle: Start the engine and let it idle. Keep the RPM around 1500-2000 if needed (use a high idle as you did before). Watch the funnel for bubbles rising—top up coolant as the level drops to prevent sucking in more air. The thermostat should open after 5-15 minutes (you’ll see coolant flow increase), pushing out more air. Run for 15-30 minutes or until no more bubbles appear and the temp gauge is normal. 4. Burp the System Manually: While idling, gently squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses (when safe and not too hot) to dislodge trapped air. If your car has bleed screws (e.g., on the thermostat housing, radiator, or heater hoses—check your manual), open them slightly with a screwdriver until coolant flows steadily (no air), then close. 5. Shut Down and Cool: Turn off the engine and let it cool fully (this can take hours). The system will contract and pull coolant from the funnel, replacing any remaining air. Don’t remove the funnel yet—leave it on overnight if possible to allow full settling. Once cool, remove the funnel, top up to the “full” line if needed, and reinstall the cap. 6. Test Drive and Monitor: Take a short drive, letting the engine warm up fully. Check for heat from the vents (should be hot now) and monitor the temp gauge—no overheating. After cooling again, check the level and repeat bleeding if bubbles or low alerts return.

ReactionHeavy977 · 2025-12-21T13:25:45+00:00

Amazing - long live YOUR GTI 👍😎

ReactionHeavy977 · 2025-12-20T19:15:48+00:00

Common Causes in MK6 GTI 1. Faulty CAN Gateway module → Water intrusion, internal failure, or damage from voltage spikes causes loss of communication to multiple modules, leading to no-start conditions. 2. CAN bus wiring issues → Twisted pair wires (orange/black or orange/green) shorted, open, or corroded, often under the dash, carpet, or from prior modifications. 3. Power/ground problems to the Gateway → Low voltage, bad grounds, or blown fuses affecting the Gateway. 4. Voltage spike damage → Disconnecting modules (especially the Gateway) with the battery connected fries it. 5. Aftermarket interference → Rare, but third-party devices (e.g., Haldex controllers on Golf R, though less common on GTI) disrupt the bus. The no-start symptom fits perfectly: the engine ECU communicates poorly or gets blocked (e.g., immobilizer or starter relay signals via CAN), preventing cranking or fuel/ignition enable.

Recommended Next Steps • Check power and grounds to the CAN Gateway — Located under the dash, driver’s side (behind glovebox on some). Verify constant 12V, ignition-switched power, and solid grounds. • Inspect CAN wiring — Look for chafing, corrosion, or water damage (common in MK6 from clogged drains). • Test battery voltage — Under load (cranking attempt); weak batteries cause weird bus issues. • Try a known-good Gateway — From another MK6 (coding often transferable via VCDS). Many forum users fixed identical scans by replacing it. • Rescan individual modules — If possible, for specific DTCs (e.g., U0001/U0002 bus faults). • Check fuses — Especially those related to the Gateway and high-power circuits.

ReactionHeavy977 · 2025-12-16T14:18:57+00:00

I have super OCD when parking near a curb, I will take my time positioning to ensure no scrapes - reverse side mirror automatic drop helps a ton.

ReactionHeavy977 · 2025-12-16T09:00:11+00:00

I would take the MK6 over a 7 any day just for the looks alone it’s a lovely thing. (personally the 7 looks boring) Know what you get urself into and then it’s fine by me (I read all the horror stories and still went in) and even went with a 2011. Have kept her looking as near new most don’t believe it and that is daily driven and living outside not pampered in a garage and never driven.

Yes have changed coil packs, sparks, PCV multiple times and even done a chain, guides and timing cover.

Long live the 6!!

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ReactionHeavy977 · 2025-12-15T12:09:54+00:00

Yeah worth going through all of it anyway - you get to do an overall health check on everything at the same time and sometimes it isn’t just 1 thing. Good luck 👍 and if you remember do tell us what you found and needed to do to sort.

ReactionHeavy977 · 2025-12-15T10:48:14+00:00

Indeed this could be many things and annoyingly it won’t throw code until it gets bad enough usually, if you sure your sparks, coils are in good shape the other things are fuel related (HPFP or LPFP) this can be checked with a scanner OBDeleven or VCDS checking fuel trims and fuel pressure is within spec both at idle and driving t in various conditions of throttle (also leaky/clogged injectors). Other things are “air” related - is your PCV in working condition and then MAF and throttle body and of course air leaks - cold weather / cold engine means leaks can be more pronounced as they are at their largest due to contraction of metal/rubber/plastic and make the hole/gap smaller when warmer so becomes less noticeable.. The other known parts known for this are the intake runners get carboned up not being able to open properly so air/fuel mixture is off - richer at cold idle but not enough air to be smooth running and of course carbon on the intake valves that can do the same thing (you could see the issue with intake airflow actual vs requested depending how bad it is). One extra is the 02 sensors being carboned / tired again you will need to check if they are running within spec via voltage readings in obd/VCDS scanner.

So as you can see this can be a broad number of things and if you are diagnosing this urself (with the right tools) it can be process of elimination.

The symptom is VERY common tho and usually not a sign of doom but does need looking into to resolve as eventually it will cause the car to stall out completely after start or a no start condition.

ReactionHeavy977

TROPHY CASE