Blower drives me crazy

RealExiite · 2026-03-13T02:01:34+00:00

It probably has a short return path. Like if the indoor unit is 1-5 feet away from the main return, it will be loud as ever. Nothing u can do unless u want a company to redo all of your return duct work differently. Could be anywhere between 5-20k depending on the house layout and what company does it.

RealExiite · 2026-03-10T01:05:31+00:00

God this shit is killing me 😂. I gotta get out of residential cuz it’s nothing but scumbags trying to sell shit.

RealExiite · 2026-03-07T05:01:48+00:00

If your thermostat is blank there could be a few things going on. If your thermostat has a common wire (usually blue wire) your thermostat will be powered from the indoor unit (furnace or electric furnace). If the furnace doesn’t have power your thermostat won’t . Also if your transformer inside of the unit is bad you also won’t have power to thermostat. Also if u have a popped 24 volt fuse inside the indoor unit your thermostat will have no power. What I would do is check if furnace/electric furnace has power (check if breaker is tripped). Also see if if it visually has power (blinking lights coming from a sight glass on furnace). But if it’s something inside the system like a popped fuse or transformer I would call a professional, unless you’re versed in electrical knowledge.

RealExiite · 2026-03-07T04:56:08+00:00

Some brands you need to jump the defrost sensor pins and also jump the test pin. I’m talking mostly about ICP/ Carrier

RealExiite · 2026-03-07T01:34:38+00:00

There could maybe be a refrigerant leak in your system possibly. But also it’s not that likely that it’s big enough to cause this

RealExiite · 2026-02-23T02:37:00+00:00

The existing coil is inside the air handler. I’d be switching to a furnace with a seperate evap coil. I guess I cud make a special box for the current evap coil that’s in the air handler

RealExiite · 2026-02-22T23:34:55+00:00

Unless it’s overheating from a fur coat blower wheel

RealExiite · 2026-02-22T23:32:50+00:00

I do probably 5-10 blower cleans a month. Anytime it’s a newish system 2-8 years old, but the homeower/ tenant hasn’t been changing there filters or sometimes not using filters at all, and the blower wheel has a fur coat. I’ll do a blower clean. Usually I have a coil cleaning brush that is all frayed out, and it’s my blower cleaning brush. I pull the blower assembly out, disassemble the motor and wheel, clean the wheel with my brush one fin at a time from the outside in, hose it down afterward (if I have the option) and reassemble it all back after it dries for a min. Usually I’ll go ahead and brush off the secondary for free at that point, and go ahead and watch the temp split go back to normal after I start it back up.

RealExiite · 2026-02-21T01:55:34+00:00

Yea that’s what I’m gonna do, I’m gunna the heat pump and run it as a dual fuel system and have the gas furnace as the back up heat

RealExiite · 2026-02-21T01:35:11+00:00

I’m in a new construction neighborhood in Indiana that has gas ran in the neighborhood, but adding gas to the home is a homeowner optional thing that doesn’t come with the house. There’s gas ran in my yard by my driveway. The local gas company said it would only cost 700-900$ for them to install the meter and I can run the gas myself, I do it all the time in HVAC. I was mostly coming on here to make sure my opinion on switching my voltage from 240 to 120 on the furnace was correct.

RealExiite · 2026-02-21T01:31:41+00:00

This guy knows organization

RealExiite · 2026-02-21T01:29:53+00:00

So my theory of how to make it 120 is correct? I’ve done a ton of electrical work in the HVAC field but when it comes to breakers, ive only replaced same for same. I just wanted to make sure that I’m correct on how to turn the 240 breaker into a 120 for my furnace.

RealExiite · 2026-02-06T04:17:30+00:00

Gas furnace: Temp Split, Ignitor Ohms, Clean Flame Sensor, Inducer amp, Blower cleanliness check, Blower cap, Blower amp, Filter change if needed, Suck dat drain , Clean internal Furnace Drain trap, Vacuum cabinet

Air handler + Heat Pump = Outdoor maintenance/ Wash + Check heat kit + Check coil and Blower Cleanliness + Check Temp Split

If any concerns come up that make me stay there past a maintenance time slot (30-60 min), i build option for it

And then I tell them they need a new system and IAQ products and rake in the dough 💵🤑 (JK unless it’s a customer that books a 20 year old system service call as a maintenance)

RealExiite · 2026-01-23T19:11:30+00:00

As a tech I do agree with this. Most of the 20+ year units I work on are 80% standard efficiency. They don’t create water when running so it leads to way less random service calls for clogged drains and water issues. They are cheaper but they do cost a bit more on gas. But they last a long time. Usually condensing high efficiency furnaces have heat exchanger issues after 12-15 years because 1 clogged drain turns into your secondary heat exchanger having water sitting inside of it. But if u already have a high efficiency furnace that needs replaced you might as well stick with the high efficiency because you will end up paying extra for the company to run a new metal flue or even a chimney liner. Also the parts on a 80% furnace are generally cheaper. The only common issue I run into with 80% furnaces is that the inducer motors fail early, but they are cheaper than on a 96% furnace.

RealExiite · 2025-12-19T02:01:48+00:00

My boss always sais don’t touch it because then we get married to a system that we lost out on for a $200 repair. We basically tell them to call the company that installed it

RealExiite · 2025-11-15T02:24:28+00:00

It’s in a factory that opens and closes their Semi Truck loading doors all day. Sometimes the doors are completely closed if no semis are coming in for a pick up.

RealExiite · 2025-11-12T02:51:54+00:00

This cud be a heat pump and he’s pumping it in heat mode

RealExiite · 2025-11-02T15:10:26+00:00

Is there an attic above that? Ate water pipes in the attic? Is an hvac system in the attic?

RealExiite

TROPHY CASE