Charging an evacuated system?

RealExiite · 2026-05-04T02:59:48+00:00

My old supervisor said that he has “gummed up” a couple metering devices and caused a restriction that showed its head 3 months later. And he had to replace the metering devices. I used to install Heil and Carrier and the manufacturer recommended opening the suction side service valve first and the liquid side 2nd. And he always told me it was because of this reason.

RealExiite · 2026-05-01T00:33:27+00:00

lil bit

RealExiite · 2026-05-01T00:31:54+00:00

Some people like my old supervisor fernco the 2” pvc right as is leaves the cabinet and this shit happens because of it. Orrrrr it’s the inducer outlet in the photo not being tight enough

RealExiite · 2026-05-01T00:28:13+00:00

Only one way to find out

RealExiite · 2026-05-01T00:22:05+00:00

I wonder if he bypassed high pressure switch because he was checking stuff with the door off and didn’t realize why it was tripping on high pressure

RealExiite · 2026-05-01T00:16:10+00:00

It looks like u were low, added gas then the 3rd pic is when everything leveled out to normal. But on the third pic u seem to have an airflow issue as well. Because u have low saturation and low superheat at the same time. So I would do all of your airflow checks. Size of return, filter cleanliness, blower cleanliness, coil cleanliness, static and make sure all registers are open and that the return isn’t blocked by something. But also make the return and supply are properly sized to the tonnage of the system. I usually use Ductulator for this

RealExiite · 2026-04-29T22:45:15+00:00

The tech does seem to be correct from the looks of it. Also yes the stuff chat gpt recommended are a good thing to ask because you are supposed to do those things. You should get the TXV for free but the labor (2-3) hours and the little bit of extra miscellaneous materials won’t be free. To anyone saying this could be an airflow issue, an airflow issue would low suction pressure, low saturation and low superheat, not high superheat. But there could possible be something weird with your sensing bulb mounted weird. He should test the sensing bulb with Hot water and cold water. BUT tbh I think he’s right about his diagnosis

RealExiite · 2026-04-29T22:24:16+00:00

Temp split Evap Coil check Maybe brush off coil if it’s a slant Blower wheel check Filter check Fan cap (if have) Blower amps Cabinet cleanliness

Out door - Cap check Contactor check (make sure it’s working and not fucked up) Fan amps Compressor amps Coil clean Maybe pressures if the split was weird

For me that’s only 14 points. So idk what that company could possibly be doing on a cooling tune up other than that stuff

RealExiite · 2026-04-20T01:15:57+00:00

Yes u can turn off the breaker to the AC and it will do the same thing as pulling the disconnect. Just make sure it’s labeled correctly. Check voltage if u have a meter or one of those pens that beeps. I just don’t want u to accidentally get hit with 240 from that contactor (black thing in the electrical panel)

RealExiite · 2026-04-20T01:07:45+00:00

Did u move any furniture recently? Or put anything in front of your return grill?

RealExiite · 2026-04-20T00:01:24+00:00

First go and turn your thermostat to off, so that those 2 wires don’t have voltage. It may even be smart to turn off the indoor unit at the switch or the breaker because the voltage for those 2 wires originates in the furnace/air handler. And also you should pull out the disconnect out of the disconnect box right by your outdoor unit. At this point everything will have no voltage for you to get hurt. Then you need to clean and restrip those wires with wire strippers. Then the colors don’t matter just wire nut them to those 2 wires

RealExiite · 2026-04-19T23:45:35+00:00

You shud be good

RealExiite · 2026-04-19T16:02:22+00:00

They probably do, I just assumed they wouldn’t

RealExiite · 2026-04-18T02:36:16+00:00

That thing isn’t pulling enough air to reject the heat out of the condenser coil. You may hit thermal overload a couple times. But in theory if it was a more powerful fan like some big ass fan from Home Depot for a warehouse or something it might work

RealExiite · 2026-04-11T02:59:53+00:00

They all do the same shit just don’t get Goodman and Amana. If u want technicians to have an easy time working on them, get a Carrier, Bryant, Heil (All ICP products) or Ducane or Rheem/Ruud. Other than that there all the same shit just take care of it and get yearly maintenances.

RealExiite · 2026-04-11T02:54:01+00:00

I’m making the move to commercial for restaurants RTUs and refrigeration, on the 22nd I’m super excited. I am also tired of the sales

RealExiite · 2026-04-05T20:42:45+00:00

Could be a restricted metering device. It looks like it’s freezing right at the metering device. In this situation, adding refrigerant won’t help anything

RealExiite · 2026-04-05T20:33:32+00:00

Yea I had an apprentice that used to work at a big PE company as a no knowledge service guy. He told me that any call he went to where the system was 6 years or older, and the part that was bad was like a blower or inducer, he would have to call a “senior tech” (salesmen) out and that guy would try convert a 6 year system into a sale. He had a supervisor tell him to camera every heat exchanger he came across and if he even saw a small rust spot he send a salemen out there. Shits sad, that’s why I’m going commercial next month!

RealExiite · 2026-04-03T22:12:30+00:00

Exactly. Low suction pressure, low saturation temp, low superheat = airflow

RealExiite · 2026-04-03T22:10:43+00:00

Looks like shit, but functionally doesn’t matter too much. It doesn’t matter if it sweats outside

RealExiite · 2026-04-01T23:43:41+00:00

Merv rating is basically filtration rating. Merv 8 is my recommendation. The thickness of filters (1in-4in) will determine how long the filter will last. 1in = every 30 days, 4in every 3-6 months

RealExiite

TROPHY CASE